Solutions

Solutions

Should I have a Camping Logo?

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Should I have a Camping Logo?

It all started in November 2019 when we took delivery of our 2020 Scamp 13’ travel trailer without any logos… for a clean all-white glossy look.  The only Scamp designation on the trailer was on the rear spare tire cover, which is printed with Scamp’s logo and phone number.  After a few months, the all-white vinyl tire cover was getting yellowed and didn’t look great.  (It was getting to be a bit embarrassing.)  Time for a replacement?  But, we preferred something unique and special for our next tire cover.

At about the same time the Scamp spare tire cover was ready to be replaced, we thought it would be great to start a small travel trailer blog to help others flatten their learning curve.  While developing the website, a friend recommended we have a logo.  Although not necessary, we thought this would add a nice touch on each web page as well as on our profile image for our scamptrailer Instagram account.  In addition, it would provide an opportunity to order a high quality custom spare tire cover with our own logo to replace the yellowed one we had.  So, next project: develop a logo!

The first thing we did to create our logo was develop a concept of what we wanted.  Our initial thoughts were that the logo should have a bear, owl, Scamp 13’ travel trailer, some trees, and mountains – things we love to experience while camping.  Choose design elements that are meaningful to you when creating your logo.  We also wanted the artistic elements to be integrated in some way so that it looks like a real logo design and not just a drawing.  To save a lot of time and expense, we sketched out the initial design idea ourselves with pen and paper.  Once we were satisfied, we sent the drawing to our illustrator friend and had her professionally draw it out.  The initial rendering was created with black lines and then a second drawing added just a few elements yellow (windows, owl’s eyes, and moon).  Later, we gave the completed design to a relative who is a graphic artist and he colorized the entire illustration.  Having a few color variations provides some design options for different logo uses (e.g. website, Instagram profile, spare tire cover, stickers, t-shirts …..).

The process of creating a logo can be very quick, depending on you and your ideas.  It’s also not too expensive.  If you are an artist type, then you can probably create your own logo for free in a graphics design program like Photoshop.  However, we decided on using a professional for illustrating our design.  Our logo cost around $140 to make (although our relative did not charge us to colorize the final illustration).  In the end, creating a camping logo is more than worth it if you are actively using your small travel trailer because you can not only use the logo for a spare tire cover, but also for online profile images, giveaway items like stickers, as well as t-shirts you can wear on your trips.  If your logo is on your outside spare tire cover, it will be seen quite a bit and you will really enjoy the customized look and most likely get a lot of compliments and questions.  The logo gives your small travel trailer a bit more personality, both on the road and in the campground.  Additionally, if you choose to make stickers with your logo, you can give them away to new friends you meet at the campgrounds as your calling card as well as trading them on Instagram.  You might even create t-shirts with you logo!  The list of possibilities for your logo is almost endless!

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Email Marianne if interested in Logo design:  mariannerf@gmail.com

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

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How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

I had no absolutely no experience towing a small travel trailer when our Scamp 13’ was dropped off at our home by the factory delivery driver.  After a quick review of some of the Scamp’s features and signing the paperwork (and handing over a check), the driver left and the Scamp was now in our garage ready to be taken on adventures.

I really liked the idea of all the possible trips we could take by having a small travel trailer and the probable fun we would have.  Small travel trailers are a golden ticket into places most cannot spend the night (at least not comfortably), like State and National Parks.  In the past, we would stay at a hotel if we wanted to visit scenic outdoor locations.  And, hotels at these types of places are typically not cheap!  In contrast, most nightly campground rates at State and National Parks are generally very reasonable (often less than $40 / night).  For example, a full hookup spot (meaning electricity, water, and sewer are provided at your campsite) at Furnace Creek Campground in Death Valley National Park is currently only $36 / night.  In comparison, a room at the Inn At Death Valley starts at around $350 / night in January.  In addition, you can prepare all your meals in your small travel trailer, but would likely have a much higher meal cost at the hotel.

Given all the positives, we decided we would just have to learn how to tow the small travel trailer and hoped it wouldn’t be that difficult.  The first challenge came up pretty soon after delivery.  In order to register the trailer, we needed to tow it to the local AAA as an in-person inspection is required!  With no prior experience, and after a bit of research, we hooked up our Scamp and drove it to AAA.  It actually was a very easy first drive experience.  The Scamp just follows the tow vehicle and, unless you make sharp turns, change lanes too fast, or go over bumps too quickly, it really isn’t a big deal to tow.  It is important to allow for wide turns so the trailer following you can clear whatever you are turning around.  The only stress initially was changing lanes, but even that has now become as easy as driving without the Scamp attached.  You just have to take it slowly and make extra sure the lane is clear before you change lanes.

Advanced research and preparation seem to be the keys for first time towing success.  Just like studying for a test, if you prepare in advance you will stand a higher chance for a positive outcome.  First, it’s important you select the right tow vehicle before you buy your small travel trailer.  Although I did chat with someone who told me he tows his Scamp 13’ travel trailer with a Toyota Prius, I wouldn’t recommend that for anyone.  Instead, choose a vehicle that is rated to tow (meaning the transmission and brakes, etc. were designed for towing) and can easily handle the weight of your trailer as well as the hitch (tongue) weight your small travel trailer puts on your tow vehicle’s hitch ball (to be conservative, having at least 30% more vehicle capacity than the weight and tongue weight of the trailer may be a good starting point).  In most cases, a decently powered SUV will do the job for towing a small travel trailer (but check the specs on your trailer and desired tow vehicle).   In our case, we chose the Volvo XC40 with the T5 AWD engine and factory installed tow package (248 hp, tow rating = 3,500 lbs if trailer has brakes / tongue weight rating = 350 lbs).  Scamp lists the approximate weight of the standard 13’ model between 1200 and 1500 lbs. and the tongue weight at 100 lbs.  So, in this case, the Volvo XC40 is easily rated to tow the Scamp.  The extra tow and tongue capacity allows for potentially higher weights due to carrying gear in the Scamp as well as provides power for steep mountain passes.  The tow vehicle should be ordered with a factory tow package if available and the small travel trailer should be ordered with electronic brakes.

We have found the Volvo XC40 to be an exceptional tow vehicle in many ways.  First, since it’s only a four cylinder turbo, it gets relatively good gas mileage — we routinely get 20MPG when towing.  It also feels incredibly stable to drive and the weight of our Scamp 13’ is not noticeable (even going up steep grades).  And, since it is all wheel drive (AWD), it always feels sure footed even on the bumpy sloped dirt surfaces one is likely to encounter at some campgrounds.  We picked up the vehicle in Sweden through Volvo’s Oversees Delivery Program (which is a fantastic experience in itself).  This allowed us to drive the car around Sweden for a couple of weeks and get to know the vehicle and the country.

Once you have your very capable tow vehicle, it is time to order a capable hitch to plug into your vehicle’s hitch receptacle.  We purchased this heavy duty hitch (2 x 2” shank with 2” ball) which is rated to tow 7,500lbs gross trailer weight and 750lbs tongue weight!  So, this hitch can easily accommodate a 13’ Scamp weighing 1,500lbs with a 100lb tongue weight!  It has a 2” drop, but can also be flipped to give a ¾” rise (note: it’s best to go to an automotive shop that uses pneumatic tools to properly torque the nut if it’s flipped).  We started with the 2” drop, but found that the Scamp 13’ was not level with our tow vehicle (slight drop in center, see images) which resulted in the tongue jack plate sometimes scraping driveways and noisy towing (hitch ball rattling).  Once we flipped the hitch, the trailer became level with our tow vehicle resulting in no more scraping and a smoother quieter towing experience!

Having both a capable tow vehicle and hitch set up will mean that you are much less likely to encounter towing problems on the road.  Of course, it’s always important to plug in your trailer to the tow vehicle so your trailer’s lights and emergency brakes are communicating with the tow vehicle (and check the trailer lights before leaving).  In addition, it’s imperative that safety chains be used whenever towing (see images).  Getting the ball on your tow vehicle properly aligned with your trailer coupler takes some practice, but gets easier with experience.  I taped a ribbon on the tow coupler so it hangs straight down – this lets me see the ball hit the ribbon, which indicates just an inch or so more and the tow coupler is right over the ball.  The step of locking the coupler onto the ball is critical.  After locking, I recommend pulling up on the travel trailer coupler a couple times to watch the tow vehicle rear end go up and down to make sure the ball is really securely locked into place in the coupler (none or barely any of the bottom of the ball should be visible if looking at it from the side).  In addition, I recommend using a coupler lock, not only as a theft security device, but also to help prevent the coupler latch from popping open while driving.  I also like to use a hitch lock to securely hold the hitch in place and prevent someone from walking off with it.

The hardest thing about towing a small travel trailer isn’t the towing.  I’ve found the biggest challenge is backing up the small travel trailer so that it goes where you want it to.  In this regard, it’s always good to have a helper if available so they can stand outside the vehicle and direct you (either with walkie talkies, cell phones, or shouting).  Our Scamp 13’ is very responsive when backing up and it takes practice getting comfortable to what type of wheel movements are required to control the trailer.  One trick that really helps when backing up is to hold the steering wheel at the bottom and then turn it in the direction you want the trailer to travel.  Don’t let the trailer go anywhere close to a 90 degree position with the tow vehicle when backing up as this can cause damage.  It’s always better to take your time and straighten out as many times as you need to get your approach angle right.  After a few trips, you will find backing up to be pretty easy.  Note:  I no longer use our trailer dolly in our garage because I’m used to backing our Scamp into the exact position I want in tight spaces (and you will be too after some experience).

In summary, I’m really glad we decided to purchase the Scamp 13’ even though we lacked towing experience and had concerns about the possible challenges of towing.  Ultimately, towing a small travel trailer turns out not to be such a big deal.  Towing your small travel trailer should be easy as long as you are prepared and get the proper tow vehicle and equipment (and follow checklists when leaving).  If you do this, towing your small travel trailer will not be that much more difficult than driving your car.  Initially, it may be stressful, but after towing for a trip or two you will be glad you made the purchase and likely will enjoy your trailer and all the experiences it will offer for many years to come.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

One Simple Way to Increase Your Trailer’s Fresh Water Supply by Over 50%!

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One Simple Way to Increase Your Trailer’s Fresh Water Supply by Over 50%!

Most small travel trailers with kitchens/bathrooms usually have small fresh water tanks compared to larger RVs.  The size of the fresh water tank in our Scamp 13’ is 12 gallons and there is also a hot water tank (6 gallons).  So, our Scamp carries about 18 gallons of fresh water when fully loaded.  Since water weighs around 8.3 pounds per gallon at room temperature, filling the Scamp with fresh water adds about 150 pounds.  Interestingly, we’ve compared towing the Scamp with (completely full fresh and hot water tanks) and without water and did not feel any difference in towing or notice any difference in average gas mileage!  Because of this, if we are heading to a location without hookups (even if there are central water spigots available) we will fill up at home (including the hot water heater tank) before heading out.

The first thing to consider when looking at fresh water is how it will be used when you are camping.  Some people use their fresh water tanks for all their needs while camping.  This includes using their sink/s for washing dishes, rinsing food, washing their hands, washing their face, brushing their teeth, and even drinking; in addition, they will use their shower.  In big RVs with 60 gallon tanks and larger, this may seem reasonable (with the possible exception of drinking).  However, in small travel trailers, one has to be especially mindful of water usage when camping without hookups due to limited water in the tank.  Note:  if there are hookups at the campground, then careful water conservation is not really an issue (except for maybe environmental concerns).

After using our Scamp 13’ (with kitchen sink, bathroom, and shower) for around a year in a combination of boondocking and hookup locations, we now have a good understanding of what the trailer’s water and tank limits are with how we use it.  If we are careful, we can go about 3 days without having to refill our Fresh tank (this is also about the same amount of time that it takes our Grey tank, 21 gallons, to get filled).  This includes 2 people, each taking a shower every day (shower turned on to get wet, turned off while shampooing and lathering, and turned back on to rinse – aka, Navy shower).  We also use our sink to quickly rinse our plates once or twice a day (depending on meals).  One thing we don’t use our water for is drinking (or water for cooking pasta).  Most of the water we use goes down the shower drain into the Grey water tank.  We know some campers who are able to go at least double our time (maybe even around a week) without refilling water because instead of showering daily, they may shower much less frequently or take wipes and avoid the shower altogether!  In our case, we pretty much like to maintain the same type of cleaning rituals that we practice at home.

The key way in which we effectively increase our Scamp’s fresh water supply by over 50% is by carrying our drinking water with us in jugs in our tow vehicle!  We always bring two 4 gallon BPA-free water jugs in the back of our SUV for all our drinking and cooking needs when we go on a typical 10 day trip in our Scamp.  By carrying an additional 8 gallons of fresh water in our tow vehicle, we are effectively increasing our Fresh water tank supply by 67% (12 gallons Fresh > 20 gallons)!!!  This gives us a lot more fresh water supply.  Health experts typically recommend a person drink eight 8-ounce glasses of water per day (8×8 rule), which is about ½ gallon of water per person per day.  So, by using this rule, two people would bring 10 gallons of water on their 10 day trip (1/2 gallon/day x 2 people x 10 days).  We tend to drink slightly less water than this amount because we also drink macadamia milk in our cereal, oat milk in our tea, sometimes soup for lunch, and we eat a lot of juicy fruits (like oranges).  So, for us, bringing 8 gallons of fresh water on a 10 day trip works out great (we always have extra water when we return home).

In addition to greatly expanding our small travel trailer’s fresh water supply by carrying our own fresh water in BPA-free jugs, we also feel more comfortable drinking the water.  Although drinking RV tap water can be safe, that safety is largely dependent on the trailer’s tank and water system having been properly sanitized (see this article on how to sanitize your fresh water tank).  In addition, contaminants can possibly enter the trailer when hooked up at a campsite (either through contamination by the hose, spigot, or the water itself).  Using a water filter can help reduce some risk, but may not entirely defeat it.  Note: water hoses used at campsites should be rated as non-toxic for drinking.  We have always used our sink water for brushing our teeth and have not had any issues (but we do not drink this water – just rinse, and spit out).

There are many potential sources for fresh water if you choose to carry the water in a BPA-free water jug.  Bottled water is perhaps the easiest way to take water on your trip.  It can either be purchased directly at the market, or, there are often inexpensive water machines in front of markets that allow you to fill your own jugs.  Many different types of water are sold, such as alkaline and chemically treated water.  We have a filter water purification system in our home and use that to fill our 4 gallon jugs.  Whatever water and method you use to fill your jugs, you will ultimately greatly expand the amount of fresh water capacity available for your small travel trailer and likely improve the quality of your water by carrying your fresh drinking water separately in your tow vehicle!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Free Stayovers with Boondockers Welcome & Harvest Hosts

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Free Stayovers with Boondockers Welcome & Harvest Hosts

Sometimes things seem a little too good to be true.  The first time we heard about RV membership services like Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts we thought there must be some sort of gimmick to it.  Who would let you stay at their home or on their farm for no money (and potentially even let you use some of their resources like water and electricity)?  We wondered if there would be surcharges or other gotchas.  Or, perhaps it would be very difficult to secure a stay over (like at State and National Parks).  It seemed hard to understand how this camping model really worked.

Since the cost of an annual membership of both organizations is very low (less than the cost of one night’s stay at a typical RV park), we decided to give them a try figuring we had little to lose (especially if we were able to stay at least one night during the annual membership term).  Joining is very easy and is all done quickly online.  Once you complete payment, you can then sign into each of the websites and write up a profile that describes yourselves and your RV.  It is significant to note that both services require the RV to be completely self-contained (meaning sleeping, eating, cooking, and sanitation are all enclosed in the RV — toilet, sink, and grey tank are required).  Once your profile is set up, you can search the available locations (with descriptions on what is offered).  After you decide on a location and verify it can accommodate your rig length, you can then make a stay request (on Boondockers Welcome, this is done entirely online through messaging with the host and on Harvest Hosts you actually have to call or text the host).

Boondockers Welcome allows searches by location on a map with host sites depicted by a trailer.  When the trailer is clicked on, more information appears about the location which can then be opened to reveal the site details (e.g. number of spots, maximum length of trailer, house rules, utilities available, reviews by users …..).  Incredibly, there are plenty of Boondockers Welcome locations across the US and Canada (and sprinkled throughout the world)!  Most of the Boondockers Welcome locations allow stays of up to 2 or 3 days, but hosts may allow a longer stay if they choose.  Once you find your desired location and verify the space can accommodate your RV / trailer, you enter your arrival date and number of days you want to stay from the pull down menu.  After your request is submitted, you are prompted to message the host and tell a little about why you are travelling.  The host will then view your profile which lists your RV type and make a decision on your stay.  You will receive an email (and text) with the acceptance decision as soon as it’s made.  It’s good to stay in touch with the host through the messages center as your arrival date gets close.

Harvest Hosts, like Boondockers Welcome, provides a search map to find locations.  The map is color coded with icons denoting if the location is either a winery (red wine glass), farm (yellow barn), museum or other attraction (green building), or brewery / distillery (brown beer mug).  You can enter some preferences such as RV length, if the location is pet friendly, and the type of location when you conduct a search.  Once you find a location that looks good, and click on it, you will see a description, including the address of the business along with how many spaces are available, the maximum RV length allowed, and if the location is pet friendly.  To reserve the spot, a number is provided to either call (or sometimes text) the host.  Generally, acceptance is given on the spot over the phone or via text.

While both Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts provide places to stay for your RV adventures, they are oriented a bit differently.  Boondockers Welcome locations are usually provided by fellow campers or those interested in travelling by RV.  The properties are generally the hosts’ homes (which could be driveways in cities or spots on large parcels of land or farms outside the city).  And, it seems like the primary motivation of many Boondockers Welcome hosts in providing overnight stays is to meet and help out fellow travelers as well as socialize with them.  Hosts also get discounts on guest memberships and credits when guests stay (another incentive to become a host).  These hosts generally don’t expect anything in return for your stay and are often very generous in their time and resources.  So, it’s important that guests are well-behaved and appreciative to keep this system working.  Harvest Hosts locations on the other hand are mostly businesses which have space to accommodate certain size RVs.  In general, the Harvest Hosts location does expect the guest to make a purchase.  Since Harvest Hosts locations are mostly wineries and farms, this often means purchasing a bottle of wine or other product from the farm.  From our experiences in California, the Harvest Hosts locations seem to offer less in the way of utilities (e.g. water, electricity, dump) than Boondockers Welcome locations.

Our overall impressions of both memberships are extremely positive.  After signing up and logging in, we found that it is usually very easy to secure reservations (often with very few dates already blocked for any given location).  And, given the extremely low annual price of each service, joining both seems a no-brainer.  There really isn’t much of a gotcha in these services (beyond the expectation of buying something when staying at Harvest Hosts locations).  Boondockers Welcome seems to be the better value if your goal is to have plenty of places to stay on your travels and aren’t looking specifically to stay at a farm or winery.  For example, if you are doing a cross country road trip, Boondockers Welcome provides great opportunities for free stops all along the way (and many in scenic locations).  And, there seem to be more Boondockers Welcome sites within big cities, whereas Harvest Hosts locations, being mostly wineries and farms, are often out of the city.  For those who love wine, joining Harvest Hosts would be a must.    Staying at a vineyard and having a wine tasting can be a special experience.  Boondockers Welcome locations also include farms and other special properties as well, so unique experiences aren’t just limited to Harvest Hosts.

We recently had a memorable Boondockers Welcome stay on our way home back to San Diego on a 10-day trip up to Coos Bay, Oregon.  We were looking for a stayover at a halfway point between Oakland and San Diego.  We found a miniature donkey farm on the Boondockers Welcome map and messaged the host.  She was especially gracious and we booked an overnight stay right away through the online messages center within the Boondockers Welcome website.  We did have to drive down a long dirt road to get to the farm, but it was well worth it.  The farm is situated on over 20 acres and we were told we could park anywhere!  We parked high up on a hill on a nice quiet space overlooking the valley below (near one of the miniature donkey enclosures).  We had access to water if we needed it.  The host was really nice and spent the afternoon with us showing us her animals and allowing us to feed and pet the miniature donkeys.  We gave the host a small gift (Peanuts oven mitt with kitchen towels set) to show our appreciation.  The night was extremely quiet and the stars were out.  After breakfast, we said goodbye to the donkeys and drove off.  It was one of the best stops on our entire trip!

Our first Harvest Hosts stay was at an olive oil farm in Paso Robles.  The host had one spot behind their barn facing a grove of olive trees.  The location was on our way from Santa Barbara to Oakland and, therefore, wasn’t too far out of the way on our trip.  Other than a quick greeting from the host (and purchasing a $20 bottle of olive oil), we were on our own in a very quiet location (the main house was a far distance up the hill).  There weren’t really any hookups (although we were offered a $40 / night electrical hookup which we declined).  We had our solar panel and plenty of water (and propane gas for our hot water heater and stove), so we were fine without hookups at this location.  We enjoyed being out in the olive orchard and seeing the stars at night.  The experience was very tranquil and felt much nicer than any RV park we had visited.  After breakfast the next morning, and then a long walk in the country, we just drove off having gotten our money’s worth out of the annual Harvest Hosts membership in just this one stay.

Based on our great experiences and the low cost memberships of both Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts, we highly recommend both subscription services and think it’s very easy to get your money out of them within just a visit or two.  The current subscription price for an annual guest pass at Boondockers Welcome is $50.  If you want to join Boondockers Welcome:

CLICK HERE TO JOIN BOONDOCKERS WELCOME

The current subscription price for an annual guest pass at Harvest Hosts is $70.  However, currently there’s a 15% off promotional coupon for Harvest Hosts if you would like to join and give it a try.

CLICK HERE TO JOIN HARVEST HOSTS

 

Disclaimer:  You will be supporting the continuation of this website by buying here as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are services, products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific service or product and cannot guarantee that the services or products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How our “Water Bandit” Saved our Trip

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How our “Water Bandit” Saved our Trip

Ordinarily, we try to stay away from unsavory characters – which include bandits of any sort.  It just doesn’t seem morally right and legally appropriate to hire such thugs to perform essential tasks (even if they are legal).  However, we made an exception when we discovered the “Water Bandit”.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

No, you do not need an extra seat in your tow vehicle to take one of these bandits along.  Nor do you need to carry potential bail money with you in case your bandit is caught in the act.  This “Water Bandit” is actually a small clever rubbery device that can attach to water spigots at campgrounds – that were perhaps intentionally designed without threads (or ones with stripped or damaged threads) – making attaching a regular hose now possible.  The “Water Bandit” slides over and grips onto the spigot with the rubber side on one end and has a threaded end for your hose or water tank filler with a shutoff valve on the other end.

This inexpensive device takes up very little space and can be a true trip saver at some campgrounds!  On our most recent trip up the California coast to Coos Bay, Oregon, we stayed at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (about 50 miles north of Eureka).  We were running low on water and there are no hookups at this campground.  However, there are water spigots sprinkled throughout the campground and we found one close to our campsite (#49).  I set our water jug under the spigot and turned it on and a high pressure spray of water shot in all directions with very little going into our water container.  It was difficult to adjust the amount of water coming out (e.g. all on or off).  I realized it was going to take all day to capture water in this method without some help.  And, then, remembered our “Water Bandit”.

I screwed on our water tank filler hose onto our “Water Bandit” (since we were too far from our campsite to use our hose to reach the Scamp) and then slipped the bandit over the spigot.  I placed our dolly under the water jug so I could easily move it to the Scamp after being weighted down with water.  Note:  a gallon of water weighs about 8.34 pounds at room temperature (so our 6 gallon water jug weighs about 50 pounds when full)!  When I first opened the spigot and water shot through it at high pressure, the bandit flew off (as it is not intended to use under pressure).  So, I turned the water off, slipped it back on the spigot, angled the hose straight down into the water jug, and then held the bandit on the spigot with one hand while opening up the spigot with the other (some people report success using a hose clamp to hold their bandits onto the spigot).  The water now behaved and quickly shot straight down into the water jug, quickly filling it.  If we had been parked closer to the Scamp, I would have hooked up our hose and filled our Scamp’s fresh water tank directly.  In the end, the “Water Bandit” helped us tremendously in having an enjoyable trip by allowing us to fill our water tank.  We will never go camping again without our “Water Bandit”!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to Watch Movies in the Wild

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How to Watch Movies in the Wild

Sometimes it’s nice to come back to your small travel trailer after a long day of hiking and watch a good movie.  After all, you can probably stay up as late as you want and sleep in the next morning!  Without the usual pressures of the outside world, being in the wilderness affords a nice opportunity to really enjoy some quality entertainment!

The main piece of equipment you will need to enjoy a good movie in your small travel trailer is a television (LCD TV) that is powered by 12 volts.  Being powered by 12 Volts allows you to use the TV off grid (e.g. no hookups).  This type of TV can be plugged directly into a 12V socket and powered by the travel trailer’s 12V battery or an auxiliary battery power bank, which is desirable when you have no hookups in the wild.  If your small travel trailer has 110V outlets, they are unlikely to work without hookups because most small trailers don’t have inverters (allows your 12V battery to power 110 volt outlets).  Note:  12 volt TVs designed for travel trailers often also come with a 12V power supply which allow the TV to be plugged into a 110V outlet (which may be useful if there is no 12V socket option in the small travel trailer so the TV can be used at least when the trailer is hooked up to city power or if the trailer has an inverter with 110 volt outlets).  It’s important to note though, that the 12V TV will be more efficient (use less power) off grid when plugged directly into a 12V socket than using an inverter (110V outlet powered by 12V battery) since there are losses associated with “inverting” DC to AC current (which can be significant).

It is recommended to get a TV designed specifically for an RV because (along with being 12V) they are built to withstand vibration from the road and handle larger variations in temperature and humidity, unlike home electronics.  Additionally, they may be more energy efficient than non RV models which is important if you are camping without hookups and trying to conserve power.

One of the few manufacturers of 12 volt TVs for travel trailers is Jensen.  The model that came with our 13’ Scamp travel trailer is a Jensen 19” with a built-in DVD player.  The TV is mounted in the corner of our Scamp so it can be watched while sitting at the dinette or from the bed (when the dinette is converted to the bed).  The DVD player is handy if you have a collection of DVDs because you can play DVDs anywhere without the need for over the air TV signals, a cable/satellite connection, or a data connection (e.g. wifi or mobile data hotspot).  I recommend using an adhesive like LocTite Threadlocker to secure the mount’s bolts threads if you have a TV mounted in your small travel trailer.  Our factory installed TV disconnected from its mount (brand new Scamp) on one of our first trips and fell to the floor!  When we arrived at our destination I found the TV on the floor with a broken soldered joint at the cable connection.  Fortunately, the TV manufacturer (Jensen / ASA Electronics) was super nice and fixed the TV at no cost!  After that experience, I used LocTite on all the bolts to secure the TV and the TV mount has stayed tight since.

If you don’t have room for a TV or don’t want the expense, you can also watch TV and movies on your mobile phone, tablet, or laptop albeit with a smaller screen size.

If you are city camping, like the times we spent on my cousin Jon’s driveway in Santa Barbara, or when we parked our Scamp travel trailer out on the street in front of my sister’s house in Oakland, you likely will have access to electrical power, wifi and over the air HD digital signals.  If your small travel trailer is connected via an extension cord to city power, then there is no concern about how to power your TV.  Once your family member or friend gives you their wifi code (assuming you are close enough to the house to receive the signal), you will have full access to streaming media (which includes TV).  You will need a digital streaming media player attached to your TV — like a Roku, Amazon Fire TV Stick, or AirTV.  We have subscriptions to Sling TV, Netflix, and Amazon Prime.  Sling TV (internet TV service owned by Dish Network) has an incredible variety of television channels and offers additional channel packages (like News, Lifestyle).  We have the Sling TV Blue package along with News and Lifestyle packages which has most major news channels, CNBC, and all the Hallmark Channels.  Sling TV also provides a free 10 hour cloud based DVR, so you can record shows and watch them wherever you are (as long as you have an internet connection).  So, as long as we have a decent wifi connection in the Scamp, we get a vast array of TV channels through Sling TV.  Netflix and Amazon Prime also provide a huge library of movies and TV shows.   In addition to Internet TV, we also receive crystal clear over the air TV when in most cities via our HD antenna system.  We added the TV package when we ordered our Scamp which includes an HD Antenna on the roof, an electronic attenuator inside the Scamp for rotating the HD antenna for optimal HD reception, and cabling inside the Scamp with a cable port outside for use when staying at an RV park that offers cable TV.  Over the air HD TV is especially good when one wants to watch local channels (like the News or Weather) or when no other forms of TV are possible (e.g. no Internet, no DVDs, no phone).

When staying in campgrounds at State and National Parks, there usually is no wifi or over the air HD TV reception.  If the campground has electrical hookups, then no consideration needs to be made regarding powering the TV.  However, if the campground has no hookups, it’s best either to watch shows on a small device (e.g. mobile phone, ipad, or laptop) or use a large external battery power bank (we use the Jackery 500) which can independently power the TV for hours without running down your travel trailer battery.  It is extremely important to reserve all the trailer’s battery power for essential tasks (e.g. running a fan, lights, and water pumps) when boondocking (no hookups).  A 100W solar panel is a great option to help recharge your small travel trailer batteries daily when camping without hookups.  We’ve found our solar panel can maintain our Scamp’s battery at 12.5V (a good place) for days on end as long as the Sun shines.  Another option is to use a generator for power (although State and National Parks generally have rules regarding if and when you can use one).  For most small travel trailers, a solar panel is enough.

Now that you have your TV / personal viewing device, power outlet, and power source all figured out, you can decide on what you want to watch and how you are going to watch it (which will likely vary depending on the campsite location and available utilities).  The three main ways to watch movies in the wild are through:   DVDs, downloading movies onto your personal viewing device, and satellite TV (requires satellite dish and subscription).  You can try scanning the HD channels for over the air TV, but, so far, we’ve found no signals in all the remote areas where we’ve stayed.  If you have a DVD player built into your TV, then just stick the DVD into the TV and away you go!  Before every trip, we try to download a bunch of movies from Netflix and/or Amazon Prime.  The downloaded movies can be played both on our phone and on our TV (through our phone using a special cable) even if we have no internet connection.  If buying an HDMI cable that displays your phone’s movies onto the TV, you need to make sure you purchase a cable that is meant for your model phone.  We purchased this cable for our Samsung Galaxy S8 phone which plugs into the phone and the TV’s HDMI port and displays whatever is playing on the phone.  Update:  my Samsung Galaxy S8 needed to be replaced and few phones (including my new phone) output HDMI.  So, I purchased a small inexpensive laptop with HDMI output to play movies into our TV.  To download movies and shows from Netflix: download the Netflix App from the Google Play store or Apple App Store, open the Netflix App on your phone and sign in, select a movie or series, and click on Download.  When you want to watch at the campground, select the Downloads menu item and find your movie / show and play (you will not need an Internet connection to watch the show).  The process is very similar with Amazon Prime.  Lastly, satellite TV may be an option to consider.  Our friends Hugh and Cheryl have satellite TV (DirectTV) with a satellite TV antenna on the roof of their very large motorhome.  This is also possible for a small travel trailer if you don’t mind the expense for equipment and monthly subscription and can setup and store the satellite receiver and antenna.

In the not so distant future, StarLink (constructed by SpaceX) will provide high speed broadband satellite internet service covering most of the globe using a constellation of thousands of mass produced satellites in low Earth orbit.  The first 60 satellites were launched in 2019 and Space X has been launching sets of 60 on a regular basis since this time.   SpaceX plans for near global service by late 2021 or 2022.  If successful, Starlink will transform travelling with small travel trailers by enabling high speed broadband communication (e.g. ip phone, browsing, email, tv / movie streaming) at the most distant locations where one can travel.  For small travel trailer enthusiasts, this will be a communication bonanza — possibly enabling longer and more pleasant trips by allowing campers to work from the trailer, stay in touch with family, and enjoy online entertainment, including TV and movies, at once completely off the grid campgrounds.  Update:  StarLink is now available for RV use!!!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

My Travel Trailer Tool Kit

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My Travel Trailer Tool Kit

It only took one trip to realize having a tool kit when travelling with a small travel trailer is essential!  Even if you have no experience working on or fixing things, having some basic tools can be a real life saver.

We were staying over at a Harvest Host location on an olive tree farm in Paso Robles and had no access to electrical hookups.  We had our solar panel, so we weren’t very concerned.  Unfortunately, when I setup the panel outside, one of the two power wires slipped out of the solar panel connector.  Without the attached wire, the solar panel wouldn’t be able to keep our Scamp battery charging.  I just needed a small screw driver to secure it again, which would only take a couple of seconds.  However, such a simple task was virtually impossible without the right tool and there were no stores anywhere close by.  Fortunately, I remembered I had a micro screw driver in my drone kit and was able to use it successfully.  After this experience, I vowed to equip our Scamp travel trailer with a proper tool kit and we haven’t travelled without it ever since!

I first thought I would just buy a pre-made tool kit at Harbor Freight Tools.  They have a number of nice tool kits that are very inexpensive.  However, when I went to check them out I realized that they were all preloaded with a lot of unnecessary tools I didn’t need and, in turn, were heavy.  When one travels with a small travel trailer, it’s always a good idea to keep weight in mind.  You only want to carry the absolute essentials to keep the trailer as light as possible to make it easier for your car to tow and conserve precious space.  For example, it’s probably not necessary to have a full socket head kit for your travel trailer when you only need a few socket sizes (e.g. battery nuts, wheel lug nuts, and tongue jack nuts).  In addition, there are some specific tools (e.g. voltage meter) that are useful for the Scamp and wouldn’t necessarily be in a preloaded tool kit.  So, instead of purchasing one of the pre-made tool kits, I decided on buying specific tools individually.

After taking a lot of measurements, I found this really nice plastic box on Amazon which has plenty of room for all my tools and fits great on the floor in the Scamp’s front clothes closet!

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Tools in my Scamp travel trailer toolbox:

  1. 25’ Extension Cord (Orange) – use it whenever you overnight on the street in front of a friend’s house.  CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  2. Digital Multimeter – use it to check power is coming out of the solar panel extension cables.  CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  3. Ring Terminal 12-10 Crimp Connectors – use for connectors to the trailer battery (e.g. electric tongue jack, LEDs….) 5/16” (Home Depot)
  4. Tool & Terminal Kit – good for crimping the connectors (Home Depot)
  5. Work Gloves – CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  6. Headlamp – keeps hands free when working in low light.  CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  7. Multi-tool – Provides a variety of options in one tool.  CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  8. Adjustable Grip Plyers – CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  9. Micro Cutter – use to cut wires and zip ties.  CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  10. Swiss Army Knife – CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  11. Foldable Scissors – CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  12. Needle Nose Pliers – CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  13. Ratched Socket Wrench:  Use for battery nuts, wheel lug nuts, and tongue jack nuts (we use a 3/8” square drive), CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  14. Socket Heads:  Get appropriate sized socket heads for your battery nuts, wheel lug nuts, and tongue jack nuts.  Note:  our 13’ Scamp sizes are 13/16” hex for wheel lug nuts, 9/16” hex for the 3 tongue jack bolts, and ½” hex for the battery terminal nuts (using 3/8” square drive).
  15. Zip Ties, Electrical Tape, Duct Tape, Velcro Tape – use for a variety of tasks.
  16. Ratchet Screw Driver Set – CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  17. Mallet – similar to hammer.  CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON
  18. Pencil – used to draw graphite on zippers to make them work better.
  19. Manual Crank tool for electric tongue jack (should come with electric tongue jack)

“Intellectuals solve problems, geniuses prevent them.”  Albert Einstein

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

It’s Hip to be Square

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It’s Hip to be Square

Sometimes a shape is very important.  This certainly can be the case when packing your small travel trailer refrigerator.  Small items tend shift when travelling down the road and the problem can be especially bad when items are cylindrical (like water bottles) and can roll around.  If the refrigerator isn’t completely packed, a loose water bottle can crash into other items, possibly damaging them in transit.  Additionally, a heavy item that is rolling around inside the refrigerator could potentially leak and create a big mess.

On our first few Scamp trips, we secured water bottles in the refrigerator with Velcro straps.  This method worked ok but made it a nuisance to quickly remove the water bottles.  We noticed that items that were in square boxes (like soup) didn’t move around much during trips.  So, we replaced our water bottles with one square water bottle that we refill with pure water when it is low (we carry two 4 gallon drinking water safe water jugs in our SUV which we fill with our reverse osmosis water system at home before we leave on a trip).  The square water bottle works great and tends to say in its place in the refrigerator without using straps!

Now, we try to choose square containers for anything that will need to be refrigerated, if possible. Since we like pancakes on Sunday mornings, we found a great brand of pure premium maple syrup (Parker’s) that we intend to refill with our favorite pure maple syrup when it runs out.  We took Parker’s maple syrup up to Mammoth Lakes on our last trip and it held its position in the fridge well!  Other items packaged in square containers that we enjoy and take in our Scamp’s refrigerator are Macadamia Milk and boxed soup.

Lots of other food items can either be found in square packaging or packed in square containers.  For example, fruits like grapes are nicely stored in sealed containers.  The bottom line is to avoid putting heavy cylindrical objects like bottled water or soda cans in your small travel trailer’s refrigerator when travelling because they can cause issues.  Instead, be aware, that it’s hip to be square!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Save Time & Money with a Home Dump!

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Save Time & Money with a Home Dump!

One of the biggest concerns of small travel trailer campers is the status of their Fresh, Grey, and Black water tank levels and the necessity to Dump the tanks before it’s too late.  A small travel trailer with sink, bathroom and shower generally has four tanks [e.g. Fresh tank to hold fresh water, Hot Water tank (usually fed from the Fresh tank), Grey tank (the water that is drained from the sink and shower), and Black tank (holds what is flushed down toilet)].  Our 13’ Scamp travel trailer with bathroom has a 12 gallon Fresh tank, 6 gallon Hot Water tank, 21 gallon Grey tank, and 9 gallon Black tank.

It’s important to monitor tank levels so you don’t run out of water or, possibly worse, have dirty or hazardous water / waste back up into your trailer!  Most campers get an idea fairly quickly how long they can go without dumping their tanks.  When we purchased our Scamp travel trailer, we had a tank monitor sent directly to the factory and had them integrate it into our Scamp when completing our custom build.  We use the SeeLevel II tank monitoring system (we purchased ours on RVupgrades.com because the price was much lower than on Amazon).   This monitor allows one to see the levels of all the tanks as well as the travel trailer voltage (which you want to make sure doesn’t go much lower than 12 volts – around 50% charge).  We rely on the monitor religiously to make sure we are keeping our tanks and voltage at the correct levels.

We have found that with two people each taking a fast shower every day, regularly using the Scamp bathroom, and using the sink sparingly (using paper plates or washing dishes outside if allowed), we need to Dump on about day 3.  If we are at a campsite with full hookups, then it’s no big deal.  However, if we need to move the trailer to Dump, then we try to be very careful in how we use our water so the need to Dump is less frequent.  The Achilles heel for us is the Grey tank which fills up after a couple of days (primarily due to showers).  The Black (toilet) tank usually doesn’t need to be refilled until day 5.  And the Fresh tank is generally not an issue since there usually is a spigot or water hose wherever we camp (even at areas with no hookups).  So, at campsites without hookups, we either have to use a shared Dump in the campground on day 3 if we are staying more than a couple of days or drive to a Dump.  For the future, we are considering using an outdoor shower to extend our time between Dumps since it’s the Grey tank filled quickly by showers which greatly limits our time between Dumps.

A home Dump is similar to the Dump hookup used to dump the Black and Grey tanks at the campsite.  The home Dump just utilizes the sewer cleanouts (for use by plumbers when they need to clear a clog inside the main sewer pipe going from the home to the City sewer system).  This pipe is the conduit which takes all the material flushed down the toilets in the home to the City sewer system.  The sewer cleanout covers can typically be found somewhere in the front of the home.  Our cleanout covers are located in our garage.  There are two covers which both go into the same sewer pipe, but each hole directs the plumber’s auger in a different direction (the cover closest to the road on ours directs the auger toward the house and the cover closest to the house directs the auger toward the street).  It really doesn’t matter which cleanout you use to Dump because material dumped from your trailer will go down into the sewer line either way.

A home Dump is fantastic if feasible and allowed by local laws.  It’s especially useful when arriving home after staying at a campsite with no Dump, or where the Dump had a long wait or wasn’t easily available, or was a bit too expensive (we’ve paid as low as $7.50 to Dump at a Valero station in Santa Barbara up to $15 to Dump at a private location in Mammoth Lakes).  In our area, the closest Dump is about 30 minutes’ drive away!  The home Dump also makes it possible for us to test our systems (shower, sink, toilet), sanitize and flush these systems with Happy Campers, and sanitize and flush our Fresh and Hot Water tanks.  It would be much less convenient and more expensive to do these tasks away from home.

We were very fortunate in that our sewer cleanout access areas happened to be located right in front of where our Scamp travel trailer sits in our garage!  In order to utilize them, we just had to have our plumber cut a few inches of the pipe down into the hole so an enlarged PVC cleanout adapter (available at Home Depot) could be attached to easily accommodate our 3” RV sewer hose with the cement cover still able to sit on top when not in use.

When searching for your cleanout, keep in mind that there is usually a cover (cement) that says “sewer” on it.  The cleanout is likely to be outside your home between the foundation and the street or could be on the side of your home (closest to the bathroom).  Hopefully, it will be located in an area that is convenient for you to place your travel trailer within 6 feet of the opening. It’s also best if the cleanout is either level or below your travel trailer so gravity allows the material being dumped to easily drain into the cleanout.  The cleanout pipe is usually 4 inches in diameter with a screw cap that has a square knob or indentation on the top.  Please let me know if this works for you!

Cleanliness is next to godliness!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Drain and Clean Your Tanks Regularly To Avoid Algae, Bacteria and other Bad Guys

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Drain and Clean Your Tanks Regularly To Avoid Algae, Bacteria and other Bad Guys

Algae, bacteria, and other harmful microorganisms can grow in your trailer’s Fresh and Grey tanks as well as other parts of the water system such as the pipes, hoses and water heater.  It may be possible to see the algae or it might just be that your water has a funny smell.  If you regularly are using a product to clean the Black and Grey tanks (after each trip) then it’s not likely there will be issues in these tanks.

Algae like to grow in a moist warm environment which is often the situation with the trailer’s tanks, water heater tank, and pipes.  Algae and other microorganisms have the potential for not only making the trailer water smell funny and clogging up water lines, but also could be dangerous to one’s health.  Personally, we only drink water that we bring from home that is produced in our reverse osmosis system and stored in 4 gallon BPA free plastic jugs.  But, even showering and washing dishes and hands with contaminated water could be potentially dangerous (e.g. skin, stomach, and lung issues).

Using a water filter before water enters your trailer is a must.  Additionally, the first thing to do when you get home from a trip is to drain all your tanks to eliminate the potential growing environment for the algae (this should include draining your hot water heater tank if the trailer will be stored more than a couple of weeks).  Draining the Fresh, Grey, Black, and Hot Water Heater tanks is easy and should be something you do after each trip so your trailer is ready to go for your next adventure.  When we get home, we usually park our Scamp in front of our house on the street so we can wash it before putting it back in the garage.  We open up the Fresh tank value located under the passenger side dinette seat so that the remaining Fresh water drains out on the road.  Once fully drained, we close the valve.  We also open the Hot Water Heater tank plug on the outside of the Scamp (open metal service access door on driver’s side) and let the tank drain as well (before opening, water should be cold and pressure released by turning on hot water tap at sink with on demand pump off).  On our Scamp’s Suburban hot water heater, a 1 1/16” socket is needed to unscrew the hexagonal bolt which is not only the plug to the hot water heater but also the Anode Rod (see image).  After washing the trailer and bringing it into the garage, we then drain our Black and Grey tanks using the sewer clean out drain in the garage.

It’s a good idea to sanitize your trailer water system once every six months and change your external water filter at the same time (or at least once per season or earlier if you notice decreased water flow).

Supplies:

RV Fresh Water System Sanitizing Instructions (Frequency = every 6 months)

  1. Make sure water heater is off and the circuit breaker to it is off.  Also, make sure the hot water heater switches are all off (electric and gas) and the gas LP valves are also off.
  2. Fill your Scamp Fresh tank so it is ½ full.
  3. Wearing gloves / protective eyewear and using a funnel  and plastic hose tube, pour ¼ cup of household bleach (e.g. Clorox) into your ½ full Fresh tank (or whatever ratio is recommended by your trailer manufacturer) (never pour full strength bleach into an empty tank).
  4. Add fresh water to your Fresh tank until it is full.
  5. Turn on 12V On Demand Water Pump.
  6. Run each tap one by one (sink hot water, sink cold water, shower hot/cold) until you smell the bleach and then let the tap run a few more seconds and then turn off.
  7. Fill Fresh water tank again to 100%.
  8. Turn off 12V On Demand Water Pump.
  9. Let sit overnight.
  10. Drain the Fresh and Hot Water Heater tanks.
    1. On the Scamp 13’, remove the passenger side dinette seat cushion and access the panel underneath. Open the drain valve 180 degrees and the Fresh water will drain on the ground below.
    2. Release water pressure in system by opening kitchen sink hot and cold faucets with demand pump off until water trickles.
    3. On our Scamp 13’, the hot water heater service access panel is at the driver’s side rear of trailer. The plug/anode is at the bottom of the heater.  Use socket wrench (our Suburban hot water heater plug needs a 1- 1/16” or 27mm socket) to unscrew plug (which also has a long metal anode rod).  You may have to pull the plug bolt head with some pressure if the rod gives resistance.  Water will drain out once the plug/rod is removed (so move trailer onto the street or location where water draining isn’t an issue).  This is the time to inspect the Anode rod.  If it looks very eaten up or is 75% consumed replace it when this process is complete.*  See instructions at bottom.
    4. If you have a Hot Water Heater tank rinser, now’s a good time to pressure wash the inside of the Hot Water Heater tank to remove any leftover sediment. We use this one.
    5. Tighten the Dummy Plug (old Anode rod with wire clipped off so just plug remains), Existing Plug, or New Plug onto the Hot Water Tank so it is sealed.
  11. Fill Fresh tank and open hot water tap until water flows (so hot water tank is full).
  12. Run each tap (sink hot, sink cold, shower hot/cold) until there is no bleach / chlorine smell.
  13. If bleach smell persists, drain Fresh tank and water heater again using their drain valves and refill with Fresh water.
  14. Once smell is gone, drain the Fresh tank and Hot Water Tank again and let sit dry until next trip.
  15. Now firmly secure the Anode rod in with Teflon tape and socket wrench.
  16. Turn off 12V On Demand Pump.
  17. Replace external water filter with new one.

*Replacing the Anode rod (Frequency = every 12 months under hard water usage or when 75% consumed):  Take a wire brush to the clean drain port threads to remove sediment and any leftover Teflon tape on the threads.  Next, apply mineral oil on a cloth to the clean threads to prevent corrosion and assist in installing the new Anode rod.  Wrap Teflon seal tape on threads of new Anode rod, leaving the first few threads exposed so you can screw in plug by hand.  Screw in new Anode rod clockwise by hand to make sure it’s threaded correctly and then use socket wrench until it is firmly tight (do not over tighten to avoid stripping the threads).  Note:  the anode rod does not and will not need to go all the way in.  The anode just needs to be tightened enough to be water tight.  Tighten snug and do not crank down beyond this or damage to the threads or tank could occur.  If it leaks, tighten a little bit more if possible.

We order this 3 pack of Anode rods for our Suburban hot water heater, and it comes with Teflon seal tape:

(3 Pack) Suburban RV Anode Rod Replacement Part 232767

Why is the Anode rod so important?  The Anode rod is able to help keep the Hot Water Tank from rusting by promoting a chemical reaction called electrolysis.  The process makes the Anode rod corrode in place of the exposed steel in your water heater which can lead to leaks.

RV Grey & Black Water System Sanitizing Instructions (Frequency =  every or every other trip)

We use Happy Campers Organic RV Holding Tank Treatment for the Grey and Black Water (toilet) tanks.

First, we dump our tanks.  Then, we fill jug with 1 scoop of Happy Camper with 1 gallon of water and mix and pour into the toilet and then flush the toilet immediately (Black tank).  Then, we pour two more gallons of fresh water into the toilet and flush.  We do the same for the sink (Grey tank).  We let the tanks sit for a week, allowing Happy Campers to sanitize the tanks, and then dump the tanks.  Works great!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.