Solutions – Page 6 – Scampgrounds

Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

https://scampgrounds.com/wp-content/themes/osmosis/images/empty/thumbnail.jpg 150 150 gavin gavin https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9de79417d52cde759ffedf503509748a?s=96&d=mm&r=g September 13, 2020 September 29, 2020

By: gavin

September 13, 2020

Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

There are enough details in taking out your small travel trailer that, unless you use checklists, you will inevitably have problems. The veteran campers we’ve talked with invariably insist on using checklists. Checklists help you avoid major issues such as driving off with underinflated tires, stabilizer bars still on ground, the hitch coupler not properly attached to the ball, etc. …….. Pilots use checklists all the time because of the high number of critical systems. In addition to a prelaunch checklist, maintaining separate checklists for other things [such as trip supplies and how to operate various utilities on your trailer] provide additional benefits. We created a supply checklist after our last trip to Mammoth Lakes, where we really needed our solar panel, but it was inadvertently left in our garage!

You can create a checklist using just a pencil and paper if you want or on your computer using a word processing program. We use a free app called Color Checklist which is on the Google Play store. It’s nice in that you can keep it on your phone and it actually has check boxes and check marks! It’s important that you can have the checklist in hand wherever you are. Here’s our main checklist which we use whenever we are going to depart from home or the campground:

Scamp check list for Leaving site (opposite when arriving)

Fuel SUV to FULL TANK
Add Fresh water if going to non-hookup site or 50% if just wanting to use water on drive
Dump Black & Grey tanks
Remove tire boot lock, coupler lock, hitch lock, and tire leveler wedge
Raise stabilizer bars.
Trailer tires psi 48 / Volvo SUV @ 40 psi
Attach X cross safety chains
Attach wiring harness
Raise center Jack to Clear ball and lower on ball
Lower and lock coupler on ball
Close LP (liquid propane) tanks
All switches off
Close / latch windows
Secure power cord outside outlet cover
If you have 54″ bed, put additional table support on floor
Close fan
Turn off water heater breaker, 110v Water Heater switch. Make sure switches are off – Gas Water heater water switch and demand pump for Fresh Tank.
Check laundry line is inside trailer.
Check trailer lights
Refrigerator on 12V for driving (120V or LP at campsite with no hookups).
Lock Scamp door
Disconnect wiring harness from SUV when not driving to prevent car battery drain.
Check Scamp voltage when SUV hooked up and running – should be over 12.5V.
[When storing after trip, drain Fresh tank by opening valve under dinette seat – water will drain under trailer, drain Hot Water Heater tank (plug on outside of trailer under metal cover), and dump Black and Grey tanks.]

Here is our Scamp Supply Checklist (note: we leave many items in the Scamp such as plates, cups, and utensils so we don’t need to pack them every trip):

Food & water
Empty Water Jug / Dolly
Down jackets
Hiking Boots
Hats & Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Umbrella
Foam mattress topper
Outdoor floor mat
Solar panel (when applicable)
Shower & kitchen towels
TP & paper towels
Pots & pans with lids
Measuring cup and strainer
Pancake mix and maple syrup
Chocolate
Jackery 500 generator (for powering battery devices)
Camera and drone
Broom
Lawn chairs
Rain gear
Wet vac
Kayak (when applicable)
Campground surge protector
Scamp water supplies (e.g. hose, pressure regulator, water filter, 90 degree brass fitting)
Rubber gloves (for dump)
Toilet sanitizers
Hand sanitizers

Our additional checklists for operating the Scamp water pump, water heater, furnace, and refrigerator. The procedures on these lists could vary since various model utilities are used in Scamp production.

Scamp On Demand Water Pump Checklist (used when not attached to City Water to pressurize system)

Make sure Fresh water tank is full before turning on
Only use when not attached to City water
Turn switch off when not in Scamp or Fresh tank is near empty (then fill tank before using water)

Scamp Water Heater Checklist (auto start)

Runs on 120V or LP
Hook up to City Water (or Fresh water see below)
Turn on hot water at faucet
When water comes out at sink, hot water heater is full with water (important to fill so water heater tank doesn’t burn)
If City water is not available, fill Fresh water tank, turn on demand pump, turn on hot water at sink until water comes out
For electric operation, turn on 120V breaker and then turn on 120V Water heater switch
For LP operation, open LP tank and then turn ON small rocker switch (down on our model) and light will momentarily come on. No temperature controls. (Uses electricity to start automatically)
Water heater can be left on until leaving camp (although we shut ours off at night after showers)

Scamp Furnace Checklist (auto start)

Uses both electric to start and run fan and LP to operate
Turn LP tank on, Turn on Furnace switch
Set thermostat to desired temp
Fan will start, Igniter will click
Furnace will light
Turn off LP tank if there is a sulfur smell
Turn on stove using lighter and run several minutes to bleed lines if Furnace doesn’t start

Scamp Refrigerator Checklist

3 Way model — 120V, 12V, LP
Open outside vent to select power source (lower front panel on our Scamp 13′)
Three switches (Green 120V, Red 12V, Knob is LP) — ONLY ONE POWER SOURCE AT ONE TIME!
For driving — use the 12V Red switch
For hookup camping — use the 120V Green switch
For dry camping with no hookups — use the Knob for LP
- Open LP tank valve first
- Set gas thermostat to high on wheel>depress wheel knob>push red igniter button repeatedly and quickly multiple times while holding down wheel knob. Keep knob depressed for 15 seconds. Check to see pilot flame. High setting is coolest. If having trouble lighting, turn off knob and run stove burners in kitchen for a couple minutes to bleed gas line and then try again.
- Set thermostat to 4 or 5 or higher if opening door frequently.
  Disclaimer: You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale. These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences. However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer. It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.

Our Best Travel Trailer Modification

By: gavin

September 9, 2020

Our Best Travel Trailer Modification

One of the most important assets of a travel trailer is the ability to get a good night’s sleep wherever you are. Unfortunately, our brand new 2020 Scamp 13’ (with big bed and bathroom) failed for me in this regard. I found the cushions so hard that I was constantly waking up during the night on our first trip.

The first thing I did when we got home was do some online research. I quickly found this to be a common issue among Scamp owners with various solutions posted. Some recommended just putting a foam mattress topper on top of the cushions. So, I ordered a 2 inch topper to see how that would help.

When the topper arrived, I pulled the cushions out of the Scamp and laid them on our living room floor. Then, I put the new 2” foam topper on the cushions. The cushions still failed to be comfortable, even with the topper. It felt like the foam was compressing and I could still feel the hard surface of the cushions.

Other Scamp owners talked about making new cushions from scratch with soft foam inserts. Since we don’t own a sewing machine or specialize in this type of skill; we opted instead to bring the Scamp cushions into a local upholstery shop. The upholstery guy felt the cushions, shook his head and laughed. He said this foam is a “#40” in firmness a “#28”would be much better for sleeping. We told him we wanted to use the existing cushions as a template, but use entirely new foam and coverings. In addition to wanting a softer cushion that is easy to sleep on, we also wanted a material that is easy to clean. The original Scamp cushions are covered in fabric. We chose a faux “leather” material made from vinyl called Pebble Dark Stone (PEB250).

The total price for all new cushions was $1,028: new foam $319, the new faux “leather” material $350, and $359 for labor. Note: our Scamp has the larger 54” bed, so more material was necessary compared to the smaller standard bed. After a couple of weeks, our new cushions were ready. We bagged the original Scamp cushions and have stored them in our attic in case we ever sell the Scamp and someone wants the originals.

We have found the new cushions to be extremely comfortable. To make the sleeping experience especially luxurious, we also use the 2” foam mattress topper. Since replacing the cushions, we have experienced a much better night’s sleep! In addition, we’ve found that the vinyl covering makes it easier to maneuver the cushions when setting up and taking down the bed every day since the material is somewhat slippery. Lastly, we’ve found the faux “leather” to be very easy to clean as it is a smooth non fabric surface.

Disclaimer: You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale. These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences. However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer. It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.

Secure Your Power Cords To Prevent Damage

By: gavin

September 8, 2020

Secure Your Power Cords To Prevent Damage

It’s very important to secure your power cords to prevent them from dropping and hitting the road. There are two power cords on a Scamp. One allows the Scamp to plug from the front of the trailer into the back of the car to provide 12 Volt power from the tow vehicle to the Scamp while driving. This is useful for powering the 12 Volt refrigerator while driving. The other cable is located at the back of the Scamp and is the charging cable. If either cable drops while you are driving, it’s very likely that the head of the cable will get damaged as it bounces off the concrete. Additionally, the cord could potentially hit your trailer, car and/or another car causing additional damage.

Unbeknownst to us, our Scamp has a plastic cover that snaps closed with a firm push to hold the power cord in the Scamp. On our first few trips, I just pushed the cover closed (but not snapped down) and everything seemed to work fine. On our way back home from Lake Tahoe, we noticed people in cars adjacent to ours on the freeway pointing to the back of our Scamp. It’s always disconcerting when you see people with concerned expressions pointing to your trailer! All sorts of thoughts come racing to mind.

When I looked in the rear view mirror, I saw the Scamp power cable bouncing off the road. I quickly pulled over and put the cord back into its holder and then used tape to secure the hatch. Fortunately, we caught it quickly and the plug on the cord only had minor scrapes and it was still functional. I called Scamp later and they told me to make sure to “snap” the cover into place!

A couple weeks later, our friend Dana told us about her issue. In her case, the front cable, which connects the Scamp to the tow vehicle (in order to power the brake lights, flashers, and auxiliary 12V power), came lose while driving. Unfortunately, the cable was damaged beyond use by scraping against the road. She is going to look into either replacing the entire cable or perhaps just the plug.

I’ve added checking the snap on cover to the power cord on our trip checklist to make sure this never happens again! Additionally, we will also check to make sure the cable that plugs into the car is firmly seated and providing ample power to the Scamp (using Voltmeter installed in Scamp). When the car is running, the Scamp generally shows over 13.5 Volts when plugged into the vehicle.

Protecting Yourself and Your RV From City Water

By: gavin

September 7, 2020

Protecting Yourself and Your RV From City Water

There are several essential items you will want regarding your City water supply. If you just hook up any hose to the City water connection at the campground and attach it to your trailer you could have serious issues. Among these are:

contaminated water from a dirty hose,
chemicals in the water from using a non BPA free hose,
particles and debris entering your trailers pipes / screens / pumps,
excessive high pressure from the City water potentially damaging the trailer’s pipes,
damage to your City water connection attachment from the weight of the hose / filter

Using the following essential products will greatly reduce the risk of a problem caused by the City water supply and enhance your enjoyment while camping.

Camco (40055) RV Brass Inline Water Pressure Regulator: This device should be the first thing to be attached to the city water spigot. It will limit the pressure to acceptable levels so your RV pipes don’t burst from excessive water pressure. Additionally, it is brass so it is lead free and safe.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco (22783) 25ft TastePURE Drinking Water Hose – Lead and BPA Free: RV City water hoses should be white, and lead and BPA free to ensure your trailer sink and shower water is safe to use. I’ve found the 25’ length to be a good size. The hose may also be used to fill your Fresh tank when not connected to City Water. You want to make sure you use your own hose to fill your trailer with water because public hoses at campgrounds may have been used to clean septic systems and, in turn, may be contaminated.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco 40045 TastePURE Inline RV Water Filter: Your white hose should be screwed into a water filter so that contaminants and sediment will be prevented from entering your trailer’s water system. The filter may also reduce chlorine and odors from the water.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Brass 90° Lead-Free Hose Saver: This clever brass right angle device attaches to your trailer’s city water port and allows your water filter to attach hanging down so that less weight hangs from the port.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Another great option is Camco 40043 TastePure RV/Marine Water Filter with Flexible Hose Protector:

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco Water Tank Filler with Shutoff Valve: This little spout can be attached directly to the white water hose to make filling the Fresh water tank on the trailer much easier. It can also be attached to a Water Bandit* on a water jug spout. It has a valve so you can easily turn off the hose water without being next to the spigot.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco (22484) *Water Bandit: This is a cool little product that allows you to connect a hose or water filler to a water spigot without threads (or one with stripped threads). It probably doesn’t support a lot of pressure, but is a nice small tool to carry just in case. I use it to attach to a jug spout to fill the Fresh water on our Scamp.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Ozark Trail Desert Patrol 6-Gal Water Jug: This water jug is BPA free and does a great job of holding water to fill up the Fresh water tank at campgrounds not equipped with direct hookups. Simply take the jug over to the nearest water spigot and fill it up. I always take a collapsible dolly as well since water weighs about 8 pounds per gallon – meaning this jug will weigh almost 50 pounds when full. I recommend using the Water Bandit on the included spout and have someone help in lifting the jug to fill the Fresh tank.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON WALMART

Vergo Industrial 275 lbs Capacity Folding Hand Truck Dolly (Model S300BT): This dolly easily fits in the car and is great for moving heavy water jugs.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

How to Turn Your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone

By: gavin

August 22, 2020

How to Turn Your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone

One of the biggest complaints people have about small travel trailers is the Wet Bath. Because room in a very small travel trailer is at a premium, the bathroom areas are usually combined (toilet and shower in one room) and, in turn, are often finished so that all surfaces in the entire bathroom (toilet, sink, and shower) can be wet. The advantage of this is that one can enjoy almost all the comforts of home, including a full bathroom, within such a small space. However, no one likes to walk into a bathroom and get their feet wet or sit on a wet toilet seat!!!

Instead of opting to buy a larger trailer just so you can have a separate shower and toilet area or spending time after each shower drying off the toilet and floor, there are some easy inexpensive solutions that will ensure that the shower area is insulated so that the toilet compartment stays dry and comfortable. Additionally, a couple of extra items will keep the floor in the shower relatively dry after each use.

Insulating the two compartments is easy if you have the right supplies. The first thing you will need is a simple shower curtain with holes and plastic rings. You will also need some medium utility hooks and perhaps some 3M adhesive fastener tape (sold a home supply stores) if you are affixing the hook to headliner (furry insulating material).

August 2021 UPDATE (use Magnets instead of Hooks)

First, we used the already existing pvc rod in the Scamp (above the inside of the bathroom door used to hold the door curtain) to secure the door side of our curtain by putting our ring on it at the end. Next, we used 3M fastener tape and stuck it onto the back of one of the hooks (instead of using the double sided tape that comes with the hooks). We used this one hook with the 3M tape for the headliner, because the fiberglass shower wall doesn’t come up too high in the Scamp and the regular tape doesn’t stick to the insulated headliner material. The Scamp has a rat fur type of headliner which the 3M fastener sticks to really well. We attached the double sided tape for the other two hooks because they were going directly onto the fiberglass wall, so we could secure the shower curtain against the entire wall (see images).

The idea is that the shower curtain is used when showering and then simply unhooked and tucked on the door side when done. You will find that this method works well for keeping the toilet area dry (along with the toilet paper / rolls placed on toilet bowl cleaner’s handle).

To keep your feet elevated off the shower floor (which can be damp or wet), we recommend using a teak “mat”. It is a really nice way to stay elevated from the floor while also allowing water to fall between the slits into the drain. Additionally, it may provide some anti-slip properties versus standing directly on potentially slick fiberglass flooring. We purchased this one (measure your floor area to make sure the mat you purchase fits):

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

If your shower floor holds some residual water after showering, like ours does, we recommend using a squeegee after showering to move water manually into the shower drain (with shower floor pump running and teak mat removed). Once you have done your best, simply place the teak mat back over the floor.

After doing everything in this article, you should have a reasonably dry toilet compartment after each shower!

Why Did My Kitchen Sink Stop Running?

By: gavin

August 21, 2020

Why Did My Kitchen Sink Stop Running?

Case #1: Shortly after our first trip, we noticed that no water was coming out of our Scamp sink when connected to city water (hose hookup). I tried the water in the shower and it worked fine. I wondered if there was something blocking the sink water pipe. Before I did anything, I did an exhaustive internet search and found the potential answer on an obscure post within a trailer website. The suggestion was to check out the sink’s aerator (little device that screws onto the sink faucet head which has a metal screen). The purpose of the aerator is to introduce bubbles into the water flow to save water.

I was easily able to unscrew the aerator and, lo and behold, it was filled with pebbly sediment! Maybe the sediment was debris from inside the new pipes. In any case, it was a quick job to wash out the junk blocking the aerator from doing its job. The sink ran fine as soon as I screwed the freshly cleaned aerator back onto the faucet head!

Case #2: Right before a long trip to Lake Tahoe, I filled up our Scamp’s fresh water tank for the first time to test the boondocking (dry camping) system used when access to city water (hose) would not be possible. We were going to be staying at D.L. Bliss State Park on the shores of Lake Tahoe and the park does not provide electrical or water hookups. However, they have water spigots that can be used to fill up water jugs which can then load water into the trailer’s fresh water tank. In order for the fresh water system to work, it needs to be pressurized with the water pump turned on. This on demand pump can be left on while dry camping (as it only turns on when pressure drops which is when the sink is turned on). I usually turn the on demand water pump off when we leave the trailer for safety (to prevent possible flooding if there was a leak).

When I first tested the on demand water pump system it worked, but when I turned the water pump off (out of curiosity) and continued to let the sink water run the water ran briefly and then stopped. When I turned the pump back on, the water would not run. The system had lost its prime and could not pressurize even with the water pump on! Fortunately, my plumber friend Oscar has an RV and knew exactly what to do! We located the water pump under one of the dinette seats and opened the pump primer valve until water dripped out and then closed it again. To open the primer valve, rotate the cap in the Open direction shown in the image (opposite / bottom side labeled Vacuum side only) and close it the the opposite direction. After this procedure, the water ran perfectly when the on demand water pump was on and has continued to work flawlessly ever since.

Why Isn’t My Shower Draining?

By: gavin

August 20, 2020

Why Isn’t My Shower Draining?

This tip applies directly to the Scamp travel trailer, but may also be relevant to other small travel trailers. Toward the end of our 9 day trip to Lake Tahoe, we noticed that our shower floor wasn’t draining very quickly (even with the water pump running).

When we got home, I called Scamp and they told me to check the water filter under the trailer. The drain waters from both the sink and the shower (grey water) are pumped to the grey tank, but first pass through a filter to remove debris to help protect the pump and give it a longer life span.

I peered under the front of the trailer and quickly found the water filter, a black cylindrical plastic case with a clear top sitting between two clear hoses (see photo 1) . One of these hoses leads directly to the water pump. It didn’t take too much effort to twist the clear plastic top off the case.

The cylindrical metal screen pops right out. In our case, it was completely clogged with a lot of debris. It only took a few seconds to wash it off with a hose. Once clean, it should be put back into the case and the top twisted back on to close.

We immediately saw that after cleaning the water filter, the shower water again drained very quickly like when we first started using the Scamp in February 2020.

Why & How We Fit Our Scamp in the Garage

By: gavin

August 8, 2020

Why & How We Fit Our Scamp in the Garage

A fantastic trait of small travel trailers is that you can sometimes fit them your garage! One reason this is a great thing is because trailer storage fees are one of the biggest ongoing expenses of owning an RV and one that stops many from considering buying one. It’s not uncommon for monthly trailer storage fees to be between $200 and $300 per month for average sized trailers in big cities. And even dirt cheap storage fees charged by outdoor lots can easily run $50 – $100 per month. Someone paying just $85 per month is paying over $1,000 per year, or over 6% of the total cost of their trailer (e.g. $16K trailer), every year on storage fees!!! These fees can really add up over the years!

Another great reason for storing your small travel trailer in your Garage is that it will be out of the elements. The sun can take a tremendous toll on a trailer with the UV rays damaging tires, outdoor rubber/plastic window trim and parts (including plastic tail lights), and even potentially damaging interior window shades and other visible interior elements. UV damage is one of the biggest causes of an RV’s value loss. Rain is another element that can potentially damage a trailer by seeping in and ruining the interior or causing mold, and hail can damage the exterior finish of the trailer. Pests, such as rodents, have easier access to a trailer if it is left outside and can do considerable damage (e.g. chewing wires, defecating inside the RV….). The trailer’s battery can also be more vulnerable to all of the above if left outside.

There are many other additional reasons why storing your trailer in your garage is a good idea. The trailer is less vulnerable to theft or vandalism. You can provision your trailer for an upcoming trip very easily without having to drive to a storage lot. In addition, you can prep for the trip a day in advance without have to load it at the last minute; and it’s even possible to turn on and fill the refrigerator the day before you leave. If you have a sewer cleanout in your garage (and if it’s allowed by local laws), you can dump your tanks in your garage (after a trip, before a trip, and allowing you to test the water systems at home without having to potentially drive somewhere and paying a fee to dump). And, if your trailer needs work and you want to tinker on it, it’s much easier to work on it in your garage than having to bring all your tools to a storage location (and finding an allowed work area and electricity at the storage facility). Lastly, having your trailer in your garage will make it easy for you to charge the battery weekly so that it maintains proper voltage.

I was told by Scamp when I first started my inquiry that their 13’ Scamp will clear an 8 foot garage height. Since we live in a Community HOA, it would not be possible to store our Scamp on the street. It would have to be stored at a storage lot or inside our garage. For all the above benefits of home storage, we really wanted to make the garage option work. Our tract home in Carlsbad has the typical low 7 foot garage height clearance. My initial research revealed that some people claimed success with getting their Scamps into their 7 foot high garages by removing the Scamp’s wheels and sliding it into the garage riding on tiny rims and deflated tires. This is an option I didn’t want to try since it involved work each time the Scamp would be moved.

Instead, we decided on seeing if we could raise our garage height. The big questions were if the height could be raised and, if so, how much would it cost. Since we live in an HOA, the first requirement was that the HOA approve the project. We were required to submit before and after renderings showing what the garage looked like before and what it would look like after it was raised to over 8 feet. Fortunately, my brother-in-law, Bob, is an artist and used an image I took of the garage and modified it to show a very realistic picture of what it would like after raising the garage height. After about a month, we received our HOA approval. I then called a Contractor I had worked with in the past to get a quote. He came out and said he thought it was very doable and gave us a very reasonable estimate for the work ($3,155) which would take less than a week. He recommended we get a Permit for the project to do it legally and also add value to the home (as an 8 foot garage with Permit could be a highly desirable feature when selling the home in the future). In order to get a Permit from the City of Carlsbad, we would first need to submit engineering plans. This required getting an architect and providing a set of our home plans (which the City of Carlsbad obtained by contacting the developer of our community). Having the plans made the job much easier for the architect and, in turn, less expensive for us. The architect’s fee for the job was $1,500.

Once we submitted the plan to the City (there was a small building permit fee), our plans got approved within a couple of weeks. With approved plans in hand, we called our Contractor back and let him transform the garage height from 7’ 1” to 8’ 1”. It took about a week and worked out great! We were fortunate in that the perfect height was created just by removing the short vertical pieces (cripples) between the big major cross beam that runs the width of the garage above the garage door (garage header) and the beam above it. New higher posts and braces were installed to support the elevated header. New drywall was also installed inside to cover the new beams. A City inspector came out a couple of times to approve all the work and finally to issue the final Permit. One last expense was having a new 8 foot garage door installed (along with new parts). We took the opportunity to get an insulated garage door to keep the temperature in the garage more moderate as well as to better reduce street noise. Cost for the garage door installed with parts was $1,355.

The total project cost for raising the garage height was about $6,000. Sure, this amount could pay for years of offsite trailer storage (5 years @ $100 / month). However, factoring in all the benefits of home storage, the annual savings of storage fees for the entire time we use our garage to store a small trailer, and the potential for increasing the home’s value by having an elevated garage height, we are extremely happy we undertook this project. It is nice knowing the Scamp is safe in the garage and ready to go for our next trip!

Note: It is very important to check the slope of your driveway as it could impact the ability of the Scamp roof to clear the garage height, even if the garage is raised to 8’ 1”.

Ordering Our 2020 Scamp: Choosing a Model, Picking Options, and the Price

By: gavin

August 5, 2020

Ordering Our 2020 Scamp: Choosing a Model, Picking Options, and the Price

Scamp makes 3 different model lengths (one of which is the 19 foot 5^th wheel which mounts on top of a pickup truck). We were choosing between the 13 foot and 16 foot models since we don’t have a pickup truck and we wanted the Scamp to fit in our garage (after increasing the garage height from 7 to 8 feet high). Both models come with and without bathrooms as well as some different layout choices and a Deluxe hardwood option. Both size models are very similar, except the 16’ model allows for some additional layout possibilities. People like the 16’ Scamp because some additional configuration choices include the ability for the bed to be kept down all the time and still have a side kitchen table and there is also a front bunk option to sleep more people.

We had never seen a Scamp before in person and initially only had the Scamp company website and YouTube videos to help us make a selection. Fortunately, Scamp maintains an owner referral network and our Scamp salesman Alan gave us a recent buyer’s contact information. I contacted Dana by email and she was very excited to have us over to her storage facility to check out her Scamp 16’. She spent a lot of time with us inside her trailer and told us a few stories as well! She mostly uses her trailer boondocking without hookups and showed us her briefcase solar panel to make off grid camping more enjoyable. Dana loves her Scamp and customized it with unique drapes and decals. She highly recommended Scamp.

After evaluating Dana’s trailer, our garage length, and the ways we planned to use the trailer, we thought the 13’ model would be perfect for us. We don’t mind converting the bed to the dinette twice a day as it only takes a couple of minutes. This actually gives us a much bigger dinette than if we had a 16’ with a side dinette and left the bed down all the time. Additionally, we liked the idea of a shorter and lighter trailer for towing and having a few extra feet in the garage to give us more space. Also, there are at least a couple of State Parks we planned to visit (e.g. D.L. Bliss in Lake Tahoe) that have trailer length limits of 15’ maximum. The real clincher was the fact that the larger 54” full size bed is only available on the 13’ Standard or the 16’ Deluxe (which is much heavier and costlier than the 13’ Standard). After doing considerable research online and taking some measurements, we knew for sure we wanted the 54” bed since we are two people! I think if there are three people, the 16’ model is a better choice as it allows for additional sleeping space. All the layouts can be viewed on the Scamp website here.

It didn’t take us too long to decide the Scamp 13’ Standard with 54” bed and bathroom was the right choice for us. We never considered getting a trailer without a toilet and shower, so we didn’t have to decide on this option. However, many people do buy Scamps without bathrooms and, instead, elect to use the facilities at the campgrounds (preferring the additional space for living over the convenience of an inside shower and toilet). I prefer to avoid using public facilities and wasn’t going to make it a habit while traveling in a trailer, so a nice shower and bathroom was a must for us! This choice has been validated many times for us on our first few trips (especially during the Pandemic now)!!!

The ordering process was pretty easy after deciding on the Standard 13’ Scamp with 54” full size bed and bathroom. Alan, our Scamp sales rep., went through a list of options over the phone and explained any that we had questions about. We ordered most options except the AC (since the trailer wouldn’t fit in our garage with it). Shower & Toilet, check. City Water (Std. with bath pkg.), check. We ordered the Group 27 (larger) battery which stores more power and is useful for dry camping. We added electric brakes (along with a brake controller) for the trailer which sync up with the car’s brakes for smoother control of the Scamp when braking. One big option we ordered was the TV package ($800) which provides a digital TV in the Scamp along with a cable run to the outside and a digital TV antenna on the roof. It’s a really nice package if you every want to watch over the air TV or cable at a RV park, streaming TV such as Netflix when you have WiFi, or use the TV to display movies played from your phone. We found the over the air HD images to be crystal clear and a nice option when travelling to different cities (especially if you want to see local news or weather), but not so helpful at park campgrounds where non-existent or weak TV signals are the norm. We added a ROKU to our TV on our own so we can watch SLING TV, Netflix, and Amazon Prime in addition to over the air TV when within a WiFi network. We also download movies from Netflix and Amazon Prime and have a cable that allows my Samsung Galaxy S8 to display the movies on the Scamp TV (great for situations when no TV or WiFi signal is available).

We also ordered dual propane tanks which I think is really helpful because it can be difficult to know when a tank is near empty and with two tanks you can easily switch to the full tank when the first runs out of fuel and then refill the first tank when back home. I think I would probably have two composite Viking tanks shipped directly to Scamp though (since you can see the liquid in the tank and they are apparently safer) if I ever ordered another Scamp again. We added most of the other options [such as the electric/gas hot water heater, furnace, porch lights, 12V roof fan (a must), vinyl floor, outside GFI outlet (I recommend also adding a 12V outlet outdoors so you can use 12V pumps for tires), 2 LED reading lights, stove cover, and two additional 120V outlets (rear & kitchen area).] We did not order a sink in the bathroom as it’s a small space and there is the kitchen sink which is almost an arm’s reach outside the bathroom door. We opted for no exterior Scamp decals as we initially thought we would vinyl wrap the trailer, but later changed our minds when we saw how glossy and cool the White coating looks – very spaceship like. Our total build price was $16,556 and we opted for home delivery (delivery price varies according to region) at $2,195 (Minnesota to San Diego). We were told that the delivery driver would not sleep in or use anything inside the Scamp. So, the total cost for the trailer was less than $20k. Note – prices generally increase gradually every year. ***We did decide after our first trip that the cushions were a bit too hard for us to sleep on, so we had softer cushions made locally (topic of future blog post).

The Scamp delivery driver, Ron, was extremely nice. He called us in advance to arrange a good delivery date and kept us informed on his status during the three day drive to our home. He had the Scamp washed the morning of the delivery and did a general walk through of the trailer when he arrived at our home. We gave him a Cashier’s check upon delivery and we were now in the Scamp owner’s club!

Why We Bought an RV and Chose a Small Travel Trailer

https://i0.wp.com/scampgrounds.com/wp-content/uploads/2000/01/grve-dummy-sample-image.png?fit=1024%2C576&ssl=1 1024 576 gavin gavin https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9de79417d52cde759ffedf503509748a?s=96&d=mm&r=g July 15, 2020 September 29, 2020

By: gavin

July 15, 2020

Why We Bought an RV and Chose a Small Travel Trailer

I always thought it would be an adventure to be able to travel around the U.S. and Canada over land and visit State and National parks. However, making the final decision to actually buy an RV took some time. There were a lot of considerations such as what type to get, how big it should be, where to store it, and if it really was worth the expense versus just staying at hotels. This was all before the Pandemic hit which now would seem to make some of these decisions no brainers.

In considering the different types of RVs, I long thought I would enjoy travel trailers the best. I didn’t really want to drive a motor home around and have to find parking places and storage for it or have to deal with the engine / transmission maintenance. I also wanted to easily be able to drive around the area after we arrived somewhere without having to navigate and park a big rig. I considered a Sprinter type van but knew I didn’t want that as my daily car and didn’t want to have the van sitting out in front of my house since it wouldn’t fit in the garage. Additionally, the Sprinter would need registration and insurance similar in cost to another car (and possibly even more expensive as the Sprinter can cost over $80K). Also, I didn’t want to risk paying a lot of money for something that we might not want to keep for more than a few years.

I always thought Airstreams were outstanding designs. Its streamlined aerodynamic metallic look as well as its history with NASA seemed very appealing for someone into aviation and design. My wife and I went to a couple of Airstream dealerships and sat in some of them. The designs are sleek and the interiors very appealing. We spent time considering different models and doing more research on them. A friend of ours had a 27 footer and sold it a couple years after buying it new. He said it was just too much to pull and navigate around towns. After taking a closer look at a 25 foot International and considering the cost of the Airstream, the weight of the trailer, and the price of a capable truck to pull it, the total would be well over $100K; we shelved the idea. We wanted something reasonable in cost and light weight since we didn’t know if we would like camping, and also something that would be easy to tow and welcome at the smallest parks. It would also be nice to have something that would fit in driveways for stayovers at friends and family.

After a lot of online research, I identified a trailer called Safari Condo Alto as being something that would maybe meet our criteria. This Quebec City manufactured trailer is super stylish, extremely light, and has a great interior layout. We would be able to tow it with an SUV. They even have a model with a retractable roof to allow for additional height and window area. We flew to Quebec City for a mini vacation and visited the showroom. The people were very nice and we really liked the Alto (non-retractable roof version). We put a deposit down on one, but ultimately decided that since the trailer was fairly unique and the only place that could provide factory service is in Quebec City and we live in San Diego, California that it would be better if we purchased a trailer made in the USA which could either be serviced locally or within the US. Safari condo was very nice in refunding our deposit. I think we would have been very happy with the Alto and we have seen a number of them at campgrounds at which we have stayed.

I noticed a stylish little trailer on a ferry in Canada and decided to visit Little Guys Trailers in San Diego to check out the model. The NuCamp TAB trailers are tear drops and are light and easy to maneuver while towing. Additionally, they will fit in small spaces. At about this time, we thought it would be really cool to be able to store a trailer in our garage and these TAB trailers would qualify in this regard. That way, we could avoid storage costs and also have access to the trailer for doing anything we want to it such as adding things, and decorating. And by having it at home, we could prep the trailer so it would be ready to leave the next day without having to run out to a storage facility first (including filling up the Fresh tank and dumping using our existing Sewer cleanout). We really liked the TAB 320S as it had everything we wanted in it including kitchen, bathroom, and dinette which converts to a bed. The sales people at Little Guys were great and explained that any trailer in California 16 feet or under avoids the annual registration (saving hundreds of dollars per year) and qualifies for a PTI (Permanent Trailer Identification) instead, which only has to be renewed every 5 years for $10!!! With a couple of more visits and careful thought we ended up scrapping our plans for a TAB 320S. The deal breaker was that the interior height is only five feet nine inches, which meant I had to bend my head whenever standing up in it.

We met a helpful neighbor who lived next door while we were on a house sitting trip to Northern California. She had a trailer in the driveway and we started a conversation letting her know we were looking for a trailer. She immediately recommended the “best trailer” she ever had, a fiberglass “egg”. Her favorite trailer she had owned was a Casita (made in Texas), but she said a very comparable trailer was made in Minnesota called the Scamp, and she encouraged us to look at both models. Because these “eggs” are fiberglass, they tend to last much longer than most other types of trailers and may have fewer issues (e.g. not prone to water leaks). They are extremely light and easy to maneuver and set up. We researched both and picked the Scamp because of the more generous interior head room (6’3”) as well as the 13 foot length option. The 13’ Scamp is also considerably lighter than the shortest Casita model. We also learned that the Scamp is a cult icon and Scamp trailers built in the 1970s are still on the road! There are Scamp camping meets every year and many Scamp owners who attend these events become lifelong friends. Another great aspect with these “eggs’ is their price – which generally run below $20K for a nicely outfitted new model and tend to hold their value really well. In addition, they can be towed with most SUVs and even some cars so an expensive heavy duty truck is not a required additional purchase. Although not dirt cheap, these eggs are still modestly priced when compared to other types of trailers.

After finally feeling like we found a trailer that would suit us, I called Scamp and placed our order in May 2019 (about a 7 month waiting time is usual). The salespeople were very nice and walked us through the entire process, which included picking options from a long list since all Scamps are custom orders. We pretty much got most options except for the AC which would sit too high on the trailer’s roof to fit into our garage, which we still had to modify (I will write about this in a future blog post). Note: there are now low profile ACs that may allow the Scamp trailer to fit under an 8’ garage height opening and Scamp usually is willing to work with the customer on special requests.

I received an email from Scamp in September 2019 advising that our trailer was about ready to start production and to confirm options choices. I called on the phone and we reviewed everything along with things like outlet placements. I also wanted to add a digital tank monitor so we could see what percentage full our tanks were and they did this as well for a small service fee (I had the part shipped from an online store directly to Scamp). We opted to pay a Scamp driver to deliver our trailer from Minnesota since we didn’t have the time right before Thanksgiving to make the trip (although I’ve read many owners highly recommend visiting the Scamp factory). Our 2020 13’ Standard Scamp trailer with bathroom and larger bed showed up at our door right before Thanksgiving 2019!