Solutions – Page 4 – Scampgrounds

How a Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount Can Change Your Travel Trailer World

https://scampgrounds.com/wp-content/themes/osmosis/images/empty/thumbnail.jpg 150 150 gavin gavin https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/9de79417d52cde759ffedf503509748a?s=96&d=mm&r=g January 26, 2021 October 2, 2023

By: gavin

January 26, 2021

How a Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount Can Change Your Travel Trailer World

Like most small travel trailers, our Scamp 13’ came with an old fashioned plastic wall mounted shower controller with two clear plastic knobs (the left one labeled H for Hot and right one labeled C for Cold). To get the right mix of hot and cold water to avoid freezing or scalding, a delicate approach of rotating each of the knobs just the right amount is needed. We quickly found out on our Scamp 13’ that this was easier said than done! It usually took some fiddling and a bit of wasted water (and some uncomfortable freezing and scalding water sprays) to get a comfortably heated stream. And, with multiple people showering, it usually meant leaving the shower on at this setting (with the shower head controller in the position to stop the flow) so that the next person could just jump in without having to repeat the process of temperature mixing (although a trickle would still run from the showerhead in this position).

After several camping trips in our Scamp dealing with this shower conundrum, I decided to do a little research to see if there might be a solution. The first thing I did was called Scamp to see if the hot water heater temperature could be adjusted lower (since one of the biggest issues was scalding water). I was told this is not possible. I later found out that most travel trailer water heater thermostats are preset at the factory and cannot be adjusted! And, typically, the water heater is set so the water is much hotter than at home because there are only 6 gallons (or sometimes on some trailers 10 gallons) to mix with the cold water (which makes the hot water last longer since less hot water is needed to heat the cold water flow).

After a bit more research, I found the answer – the thermostatic shower valve! Popular in Europe, thermostatic shower wall mounts offer an amazing solution! The thermostatic valve mixes hot and cold water to a set temperature and reacts instantly to changes in pressure or temperature of the water by re-adjusting the mix of hot and cold water. What this means is that you can set your desired water temperature in your small travel trailer shower and forget about setting it again (eliminating the need for manual temperature adjustment)! Additionally, there is usually an anti-scald safety feature that prevents the temperature from being set too high (red button override for hotter temps). This is great for families with young children or the elderly who might not be able to properly set the water temperature. Bar valve shower mounts seem to be the most popular being sold in the U.S. on Amazon. They are attractive chrome bars (see images) that mount to the wall of your small travel trailer shower. The temperature is typically set with the right hand knob and the flow rate (from off to higher flow) is usually controlled on the left hand knob. Most of the bar valve shower mounts I found are produced for the European market and, in turn, have heating measurements in Celsius and 6 inch hot cold water line spacing (instead of the typical 4” spacing found in most U.S. small travel trailers). This usually means one new hole will need to be drilled in the fiberglass shower wall to accommodate pipes spaced 6” apart.

Because they are primarily designed for Europe, the thermostatic wall shower mounts have parts which may not fit well with parts in small travel trailers built in the U.S. As such, it’s common for leaks to occur when trying to join the pex/compression fittings in the small travel trailer to the European style thermostatic shower mount if the proper materials and methods aren’t used. That’s because the compression fittings (like SharkBite) which join the PEX water hoses to the shower mount hardware may not fit properly. In the case of our Scamp 13’, I found that when screwing down the Scamp’s stock SharkBite elbow connectors on the shower mount’s brass threaded water inputs, the thread patterns didn’t seem to match exactly and the compression gasket wasn’t a good match against the brass. Even after using plumbers tape on the threads and pipe thread sealant, the connections leaked. After trying a bunch of different connection types and with the help of my friend and neighbor, Roman, who is an engineer, we found a working solution which did not leak when taking a shower. Please see below for the steps and materials I used to successfully install a thermostatic shower wall mount in our Scamp 13’.

Step 1: Gather materials:

Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount
½” x ½” FNPT Female Swivel Elbow (2 of these)
Metal Worm Gear Hose Clamp (adjustable, 40mm–63mm)
White plastic cutting board (2 of these to be safe)
Thick plumber’s tape
Clear Silicone
Hole Dozer – 7/8”
Level
Blue tape

ALWAYS USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH TOOLS! AND, WEAR A PROTECTIVE RESPIRATOR MASK WHEN CUTTING FIBERGLASS!

Step 2: Disconnect water if hooked up / make sure the on demand water pump is off and release water pressure by running sink.

Step 3: Remove original shower water mount by unscrewing plastic wall nuts in closet behind the mount. The shower mount should then pull right out. Make sure to have a towel to absorb any water coming out of the PEX hoses.

Step 4: Using adjustable pliers (Irwin Groovelock Plier Set) and with the pliers loose, slap the metal plier faces (top and bottom) with a fast motion against each SharkBite connector end so the connector comes off the PEX, leaving just the blue and red PEX hoses exposed. Example here.

Step 5: Wrap each Swivel Elbow brass end piece with thick plumbers tape, push one into the red and one into the blue PEX hoses (should be very tight), and secure it with metal worm gear hose clamps (screw down tightly). Alternatively, PEX cinch rings, or crimp rings, may be used instead. Whatever method is used to attach the brass fitting to the PEX, it’s important the joint doesn’t leak.

Step 6: Cut a straight line on a piece of white cutting board with a wood saw 4” down from the rounded edged top. We bought several small white cutting boards at Wal-Mart for 88 cents each. Note: I first tried with a dremel wheel cutting tool, but the plastic melted leaving a messy surface. The cut piece will be about 4” long and 8.5” wide, with the rounded edges at the top. This piece will be used inside the shower directly behind the wall shower mount.

Step 7: Cut a couple more identical pieces to the above (although having top rounded edges isn’t important) – these two pieces will just be used for spacers in the closet so they don’t have to be that precise.

Step 8: Assemble the Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount as pictured. Plumbers tape will need to be wrapped on the brass threads on both sides of the hot/cold brass input fittings (in the opposite direction the pipe will be turned). Make sure to insert the screen gasket on each side of the mount and rotate the decorative chrome covers over the brass threads. Be careful not to over tighten the brass fitting on the wall mount side as it could strip the inside threads of the mount. Hand tightening should be sufficient. The brass fittings coming out of the wall mount should be uniformly positioned in the same orientation (I positioned them straight out and up).

Step 9: Place the wall mount over the 4” white plastic back plate piece cut previously and position so that the decorative chrome wall covers will touch the plastic all around when holes are cut. Mark the position of the holes on the plastic cutting board with a marker using the brass pieces coming out of the wall mount as a guide (the holes should be level and low enough below the rounded top that the decorative chrome covers sit against the plastic all the way around). Drill the two holes with the 7/8” hole dozer. Make sure the new backsplash slips easily over the brass fittings on the wall mount. Make a couple more pieces with the extra plastic cutting board using the original as a template for the holes. Cut the holes for these two pieces.

Step 10: Hold the wall mount bar with the right side brass fitting aligned with the farthest shower wall hole on the right and then, with a level sitting on top of the bar, use a marker to trace a circle where the farthest left hole will need to be cut in the shower fiberglass wall. Be very careful to make sure the holes are aligned horizontally to each other so that the shower mount bar will be level.

Step 11: Make a dot with a marker in the very center of the hole to be drilled in the shower fiberglass wall. Then, to protect the area around the hole, stick blue tape down so only the little dot marking the drill location is visible. Using the 7/8” hole dozer, at very slow speed, carefully drill a hole into the fiberglass shower wall. There should now be three holes in the shower fiberglass (the center one, used for the stock mount with 4” water line spacing, will no longer be used and will be covered by the backsplash).

Step 12: Insert the completely assembled wall shower mount with the plastic wall backsplash into the holes in the shower. Add the two plastic spacer pieces on the brass pipes on the closet side and then screw down the swivel elbows onto their respective pipes (Hot and Cold inputs are marked on the back of the thermostatic wall shower mount), using a level on top of the mount to ensure it is level when firmly attached. Note: the original wall nuts are no longer used as they block too much of the brass threads.

Step 13: Now that everything is complete and attached, the system needs to be tested under pressure. It’s good to have someone standing by the closet and shower inspecting the joints while another person turns on the hose hookup. As the system is pressurized, inspect for leaks on both the PEX side and shower side of the system. Hopefully, there won’t be any leaks. However, it may be necessary to tighten down the nuts on the wall mount if you see some dripping. Once satisfied the system is holding pressure and there are no leaks, apply a bead of silicone all the way around the backsplash inside the shower (and also along the outside of the spacers in the closet) to prevent water from leaking behind the backsplash into the closet.

Step 14: Fill up your hot water heater (if not already filled) by running the Hot water in your sink until water comes out. Then, turn on your water heater and wait until the water is hot. Take a hot shower! Inspect again for leaks.

I did reposition the wood block that holds the PVC coat hanger because it was right in the way of the PEX piping and wasn’t allowing flexibility in positioning the PEX.

With a bit of preparation and care, it is possible to have a reliable thermostatic shower wall mount in your small travel trailer! And, once you are all set up, you will likely enjoy much more comfortable showers and save some water too! After you try a thermostatic shower valve, you probably will never want to go back to mixing hot and cold water manually in your small travel trailer again!

Disclaimer: You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale. These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences. However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer. It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.

Let the “Vikings” Heat Your Small Travel Trailer

By: gavin

January 12, 2021

Let the “Vikings” Heat Your Small Travel Trailer

We were cooking lunch at a State park on a recent trip up to Oregon and the flames on our Scamp 13’ stove went out all of a sudden. I immediately checked the gauge on our propane tank and it still showed GREEN. Just to make sure it wasn’t an empty propane tank with a faulty gauge reading, I switched over to our 2^nd tank and, viola, we were able to light our stove again! Hmmm. What was going on with the gauge? After a bit of research, I discovered that propane gauges are notoriously unreliable. Maybe in our situation the gauge was stuck. In any case though, it seems that relying on a gauge to determine when the propane tank is near empty may not be a good idea. We were very fortunate we had a 2^nd propane tank on our Scamp 13’. At some of the locations on that recent trip, the temperatures dipped down into the teens at night and we would have been very uncomfortable had our propane powered furnace stopped working.

After investigating several possible solutions (including different types of pressure gauges) to help solve the problem of having an unexpected empty propane tank at perhaps a very undesirable time, I discovered Viking Cylinders (made in Norway). These are tanks made from composite materials (3 layers – seamless blow-molded liner, fiberglass-wrapped plastic casing, and a durable outer case) which offer several advantages over steel and aluminum tanks:

Translucent – you can actually see the liquid propane in the tank if you wiggle the tank a little (although you have to look very carefully).
Lightweight – Viking claims their tanks weigh “more than 50% less than steel propane tanks”.
Safer than metal – the cylinder is not supposed to explode in a fire (but melt and allowing the gas to safely escape).
Non corrosive – since it’s not metal, it won’t rust or corrode or leave rust marks on surfaces.
Stable – the base of each cylinder is very stable, making it harder to fall over.
Attractive – a really superb looking cylinder!
Easy to handle – it’s easy to pick up and move around with great handles and light weight.

When I saw Viking was having a 25% off sale ($80 in total savings), I purchased two of their 17# tanks to replace the 20# tanks on our Scamp 13’ along with their custom double RV mount (since the Scamp mount wouldn’t accommodate these tanks). The first thing I noticed when unboxing them is how great they look and how light they feel! I had read online that some service stations have refused to fill these types of composite tanks, so it was nice to see that each tank had a DOT (Department of Transportation) Certification Certificate attached (meaning the tank is certified to travel on highways and roads). Putting the tanks in the back of my SUV was a breeze and the service station down the street had no problem filling them! Installing the new mount was easy and the new mount looks much nicer than the old one, appearing to have a nice thick white powder coating. All the stock Scamp parts (regulator, hoses, and switch) worked fine on the new mount.

After filling the new Viking composite tanks at the service station (the tanks came purged and ready to fill), I weighed them. Each filled Viking tank (holding about 3.8 gallons of propane per tank) weighed around 26.6 lbs. The Scamp’s original 20# steel tanks (holding about 4.5 gallons of propane) each weighed around 37 lbs. when filled. So, in my testing, the filled 17# Viking Cylinders weigh about 40% less than the stock 20# steel propane tanks that came with the Scamp (albeit with slightly less propane). The weight difference is even more striking when comparing empty tank weights (tare weights). An empty 17# Viking Cylinder only weighs around 10 lbs. (compared to around 17lbs. for an empty steel 20# propane tank)! That’s a 70% difference in weight when empty! This weight difference between the composite and steels tanks is very noticeable when removing each tank and moving it into your vehicle. Additionally, it can make a big difference on hitch weight (especially when considering a 2 propane tank setup).

The main reason I purchased the Viking tanks wasn’t for weight reasons though – it was for the ability to see the liquid propane inside the tank. The Viking tanks have cut out patterns which allow visibility into the liner holding the liquid propane. I was a little disappointed when I first had the tanks filled because I couldn’t see the liquid. However, I later figured this was because the liquid was at such a high level that it was above the viewing cutouts. After one camping trip using the Viking tanks, the liquid propane level in the tank dropped such that I was able to see the liquid moving around when slightly shifting the top one of the tanks. Even so though, you do have to look very carefully to see the liquid. In the end, despite the liquid propane being a bit difficult to see in the tank, I still think the Viking tanks are much better than the steel tanks in determining how much propane is left.

I’m very satisfied with the Viking Cylinders. They look great, are super light, won’t rust, are safer than steel tanks, are easy to handle, and offer the ability to see the liquid propane inside the tank (mostly eliminating the guessing of when the propane is likely to run out). They are much more expensive than regular steel tanks ($140 for a 17# Viking cylinder vs. around $35 for a 20# tank as of this writing), so I wouldn’t call them a necessity. They also do need to be requalified every 5 years (from the manufacturing date on the tank) through a visual inspection by an approved requalifier. Viking has a searchable list of requalifiers on their website. If the extra cost isn’t a factor, then the added benefits of the Viking Cylinders are well worth switching out your steel tanks for these composite ones!

Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

By: gavin

January 5, 2021

Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

After a year of trips with our Scamp 13’ (33 nights, 23 locations, 7 trips), we’ve gained a good understanding of how the trailer functions and which accessories provide added benefit. Because our adventures often involve locations without electricity (such as some State and National parks and boondocking campsites), one excellent solution we implemented is a solar panel system. The system ensures that our small travel trailer has the power needed to run the most essential functions (e.g. indoor LED lights, water pumps, heater, fans, and perhaps an electric tongue jack). Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC).

The trailer’s battery is usually around 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to keep the trailer’s battery charge level above 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity). A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor the trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install a SeeLevel II system when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs voltage monitors on its 2021 models). There are aftermarket voltage monitors that simply plug into the 12 volt DC port in the trailer. Here’s one with a BLUE display and here’s one with a RED display.

We’ve found that a basic 100W solar briefcase (two 50W solar panels which fold up on each other into a briefcase when not in use) is all that is necessary to provide enough power for essential systems in our Scamp 13’ (as long as the camper has sun exposure every few days). The solar briefcase is nice because it is relatively light and can fit in the back of the tow vehicle when not in use. We use an auxiliary battery power bank, a Jackery 500, for charging our phones, cameras, drone, and television when boondocking to reserve all of our Scamp’s 12V battery power for essential devices/functions.

The items needed to create a reliable solar system for your small travel trailer are:

High quality 100W solar briefcase (monocrystalline)
2 pin waterproof male/female connector for the plastic battery box (houses the trailer battery)
20 foot solar extension cables
50 foot solar extension cables
Solar crimper tool
12AWG (thickness) Wire (about 12 inches black / 12 inches red)
Solar panel cable connectors
Solar panel connector assembly tool
Multi-meter Tester
Portable Power Station

Update Sept. 2022: after a few years, the bag that came with our solar panels split apart (it was always too small and difficult to deal with). Here’s a much better bag! Also, we’ve found having 50 foot cables which can extend the 20 foot cables to be a great option when the campsite is in shade most of the time and the longer cables can get the solar panels out into the sun!

Monocrystalline solar panels have the highest efficiency rates (more power per square foot) and perform best in low light conditions, so that’s the type we chose and we’ve been very pleased with the performance. Make sure you choose a solar panel briefcase which comes with a charge controller. The charge controller will keep your small travel trailer’s battery from overcharging. On a recent trip to Joshua Tree National Park, we were down to 12.3 volts one morning. As soon as the solar panels were plugged into the battery, the power registered 13.6 volts and maintained that steady voltage through most of the day. When the solar panels were unplugged at sunset, the Scamp battery registered 12.7 volts (100% charge)! We were staying at a Boondockers Welcome location without any hookups and relied on our Jackery 500 to charge our phones and other non-essential devices (including watching TV at night). So, as long as there is sun every few days, the solar panel setup will keep the small travel trailer battery charged almost indefinitely!

Once you have the items needed to create your solar system, you will need to connect everything together. Solar panel briefcases which come with charge controllers usually have a couple of metal clips on the end of each cable (black and red) which attach the solar panel cables directly to the small travel trailer battery (similar to the clips on car jumper cables, by clipping on to the red and black terminals of the battery). Sometimes these clips are attached directly to the cables coming out of the solar controller and in other cases are separate and have connectors that plug into cable connectors coming out of the charge controller. In any case, it is cumbersome to use the clips if your small travel battery is covered by a plastic housing box (like with our Scamp 13’). We would have to take our plastic battery housing on and off each time we used the solar panels if we used the clips. So, to make things easy, use a waterproof 2 pin male female connector port on the case. Before installing onto the plastic battery case cover, some black and red 12AWG wires need to be soldered onto the inside port half, and ring terminals crimped onto the ends of the wires so they can connect to the trailer battery (Ring Terminal 12-10 Crimp Connectors, 5/16” Home Depot). (If you are not familiar with soldering, either have a friend do it or hire an expert. Otherwise, skip this step and just use the clips directly onto your battery terminals and omit the battery port.) Once the inside port half has its cables, drill an appropriately sized hold in the plastic battery case cover and mount the port (the outside piece of the port screws into the inside piece to hold it in position on the case). Then, screw down the ring terminals to the red and black battery terminals and close the battery housing box. The last step is to solder the outside male connector (which plugs into the battery port) to the 20’ solar extension cables.

Depending on how the solar briefcase is configured, it might be beneficial to create two short cables (red/black) with the 12AWG wire and add MC4 connectors at the end which the 20’ solar extension cables can plug into (they should already have MC4 connectors on them, sometimes male on Black and female on Red). Some solar briefcases are already configured with these short cables and connectors and it’s important to understand which connectors are male and which are female so they plug in appropriately. Having short cables connected to the charge controller will allow the solar briefcase to be folded with the short cables still attached to the charge controller. With this setup, all one needs to do when arriving at the campsite is open and position the solar panels, lay out the solar extension cable, and then join the connectors at the solar panels and plug the other end of the solar extension cable into the small travel trailer’s battery port.

It may be helpful to have a digital multimeter to check there is continuity from one end of the extension cables to the other and also to verify power is coming out of the extension cable at the male side of the port. On my first attempt, no power was coming out of my extension cable. So, I tested the continuity of the cable using the meter (makes a tone when the connection is continuous). I found that one of the factory installed connectors wasn’t making a good connection and, after I reinstalled the connector, everything worked great! You can also tell right away if your system is working just by checking your voltage. If everything is good, the sun is out, and the panels are plugged into the system, the voltage will go up to the 13 voltage range right away (almost like the trailer is plugged into an electrical outlet).

Once you discover solar and how effective it is, you will never want to leave home without it!

How to Consistently and Easily Hook Up your Hitch Ball

By: gavin

December 30, 2020

How to Consistently and Easily Hook Up your Hitch Ball

One of the trickiest procedures for new small travel trailer owners is backing up and lining up the hitch ball so the hitch coupler will drop securely on top of it. Getting the ball (on your tow vehicle) properly aligned with your trailer coupler takes some practice, but gets easier with experience. One trick I like is taping a ribbon (about 6 inches long) on the travel trailer’s tow coupler so the ribbon hangs straight down (I attached the ribbon with Gorilla Tape so it stays for a while!). I use my SUV’s rear camera (set to Tow Bar line) and slowly and carefully back up, keeping my SUV aimed at the ribbon. If your tow vehicle doesn’t have a rear camera, I recommend purchasing one aftermarket. It’s important that the tow vehicle is aligned so it’s on the same line to the trailer to ensure the hitch ball will fit properly when the hitch coupler is lowered (e.g. no angles between tow vehicle and trailer). Also, make sure the coupler is raised high enough so the hitch ball doesn’t hit it when you back up under it. Once I get fairly close to the hitch coupler, I very slowly inch my way back until the ball on the SUV hitch brushes up against the ribbon and then a smidge beyond. At this point, the tow coupler is right over the ball. Make sure to take your time and don’t be concerned if it initially takes a number of times to get it right.

If your ball is directly below the hitch coupler and your tow vehicle is aligned with the trailer (e.g. no angles between vehicle and trailer), you can now drop (hand crank or electric power jack) the coupler onto the ball and it should sit so that none or barely any of the bottom of the ball will be visible if looking at it from the side. If the coupler doesn’t go all the way down and it seems the lower portion of the ball is visible, it’s likely that the alignment wasn’t quite right. In this case, it will also not be possible to secure the hitch latch into the locked position. If this happens, raise the trailer coupler, pull away, line up your tow vehicle, and try again. Never try to force the coupler to lock. It does take some force to latch the coupler down, but not an excessive amount. I had one experience, when we were boondocking on a farm in Bakersfield, where everything appeared nicely lined up but the hitch latch wouldn’t close. The ground was dirt and very uneven and I suspected the coupler just wasn’t seating properly on the ball, so I pulled away and lined up again and everything worked smoothly. I was glad I didn’t try to force the coupling.

After locking, I recommend pulling up on the travel trailer coupler a couple times to watch the tow vehicle rear end go up and down to make sure the ball is really securely locked into place in the coupler (again, none or barely any of the bottom of the ball will be visible if looking at it from the side). In addition, I recommend using a coupler lock, not only as a theft security device, but also to help prevent the coupler latch from popping open while driving. After securing the coupler latch, it’s imperative to attach your safety chains and plug in your trailer to the tow vehicle so your trailer’s lights and emergency brakes are communicating with the tow vehicle (and check that the trailer lights are working before leaving).

Securing the trailer coupler onto the hitch ball is one of the most important things you can do to ensure a safe towing experience with your small travel trailer. With practice and following these tips, securing your trailer to your tow vehicle should become a successful, easy, and stress-free experience.

How to Replace Your Particle Board Table Bed in Your Small Travel Trailer

By: gavin

December 23, 2020

How to Replace Your Particle Board Table Bed in Your Small Travel Trailer

I had wanted to replace our 2020 Scamp 13’ particle board table bed ever since we first received our new trailer directly from the Scamp factory about 12 months ago. Lifting it up and down to make and unmake the bed was a real chore because of the table’s heavy weight. And, our table actually has an additional smaller particle board piece because our Scamp 13’ has the bigger 54” bed. The larger piece, which is the table, is 32 inches long x 29 ½” wide and weighs about 23 pounds with hardware. The smaller piece, which is necessary for the extended bed support, is 20 inches long x 29 ½” wide and weighs about 12.4 pounds. So, with both pieces stacked together, the table weighs over 35 pounds!!! No wonder why I always had to wrestle with the table to lower and raise it! Note: weight is one of particle board’s ugly not-so-little secrets.

Because our Scamp 13’ is so new, I was hesitant to replace the factory table. However, that all changed when the table deconstructed itself one day when I was lifting it up and back into position (structural weakness is another bullet point on particle board’s not so impressive resume). As I was elevating the table to its upright position and sliding the thin metal brackets into their clamshell receptacles attached to the wall, one of the hardware fittings attached underneath the Scamp table ripped right out (all the screws and the particle board they were screwed into), leaving a big crater underneath the table! I called Scamp and they told me it was probably time to replace the table. Given that I didn’t like the weight of the now ruined table or the look of the faux wood grain, I decided it was time for an alternative.

I did some research and discovered that I wasn’t alone in wanting to replace at least some of the particle board in our small travel trailer. Lots of campers do it to lighten the weight of their rigs. I even wrote an article based on my research called “5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper”. At this point, it was clear that the table breaking in our Scamp was actually a very good thing because it forced our hands to replace the particle board tables!

A very popular material choice for making tables in RVs which can also be used for bed support is ¾” lightweight plywood. It’s strong, super light, and looks great! It’s also widely available at home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s and it’s inexpensive. Additionally, these stores can cut the plywood for you at a very low price (or possibly for free). Be aware though, these stores will only make straight cuts, so if you want a table with rounded corners (like we did), you will need to make those cuts yourself or have someone else do it for you. I did notice though that the saw blade used by the guy cutting our wood at Home Depot was likely dull because there was a lot of splintering of the edges of the plywood (he also didn’t tape the edges to prevent this from happening). In the end, my builder brother-in-law Bobby not only did the rounded cuts for us, but also had to redo a lot of the Home Depot cuts to replace the damaged edges (fortunately we had a lot of extra plywood to work with in the 4’x8’ piece we purchased).

We chose Maple plywood (non-toxic version) which looks beautiful and has high dramatic impact when varnished with multiple coats of interior crystal clear high gloss polyurethane. We purchased one piece of 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Maple Plywood at Home Depot for around $60. Since we didn’t need nearly that much wood, I also measured our particle board stove cover and had pieces cut for its replacement. As mentioned previously, the Home Depot cuts were a bit dirty, resulting in a lot of splintering. Regardless, my brother-in-law Bobby redid some cuts, rounded the corners, and otherwise cleaned up the wood edges. Once satisfied with all the pieces [main table 32” x 29.5”, smaller table 20” x 29.5”, and materials for the stove cover (Top 15” x 20”, Front/Back two of 3” x 20”, Sides two of 3” x 13.75”)], I glued the stove cover pieces together with white wood glue and let sit overnight and then applied the polyurethane varnish with three high gloss coats to the two tables and stove cover. The finish came out beautifully, with very high luster revealing the maple’s exquisite golden rippled grain patterns.

The next step after finishing the table top is removing the old table from the Scamp, which is fairly straightforward. Before removing the existing table with hardware from the Scamp, I labeled both the left square metal bracket affixed to the wall and the square metal part above it which is attached underneath the table with an “L”, to keep the orientation the same when mounting to the new tabletop. I used a square #2 screwdriver bit with my mini cordless screw driver to remove all 8 square head screws holding the folding table mechanism to the wall (don’t touch the metal clamshell pieces located at the table’s back edge against the wall below the window). The table should stay standing up once you remove the square metal wall anchors because the top of the table is still held by the clamshell brackets and the front of the table is resting on its singular leg. Now, to completely remove the table from the Scamp, just lift the front like you are making the bed so the thin brackets in back slide out of the clamshells. It’s good to have help in holding the table, as you will also need to retract the table leg. Once done, you can carefully remove the table from the Scamp.

Find an area on a carpet or smooth service and set the old Scamp table face down on the floor right next to the face down new table top (back edge to back edge so you can locate where to install the metal brackets into the new table). I used blue painters tape and a tape measure to mark the exact locations for the brackets on the new table. Remove the 8 square head screws holding the folding mechanism metal brackets to the old table and place them over the new table in the same location (and using the holes, mark each hole with a felt tipped pen). Use a small diameter drill bit (smaller than the diameter of the screws) and wrap the drill bit to a length shorter than the screws with blue tape to ensure you don’t drill the pilot holes anywhere near through to the top of the table. Drill shallow holes where you marked the dots. Then, being careful to install the Left mount under the left side of the table; use your square #2 screwdriver bit with drill to slowly install the screws until they are tight (I also dipped the tip of each screw with white wood glue to prevent them from coming loose). Now, remove the table leg from the old table with your screwdriver and position on your new table so it is in the exact same position. Like before, drill pilot holes and then screw down the leg onto the new table. Next, install the new table into the Scamp by slipping the back thin metal brackets into the clamshell receptacles and extending the table leg. The table should stand by itself while you screw down the 8 square head screws attaching the metal brackets for the table folding mechanism back into the wall.

I weighed the tables after completing the project. The new main table weighs 14.6 lbs. with varnish and hardware (compared to the particle board’s 23 lbs.) and the smaller table weighs 6.8 lbs. (compared to the particle board’s 12.4 lbs.); together the new plywood tables weigh 21.4 lbs., about 40% lighter than the original particle board factory tables which weighed in at 35.4 lbs. !!! And, in addition from being so much nicer looking, the new maple plywood tables are much easier to raise and lower! You will love your new light tables!

Winning Yosemite’s Campground Reservations Online Lottery

By: gavin

December 16, 2020

Winning Yosemite’s Campground Reservations Online Lottery

It’s no surprise that Yosemite National Park is a wildly popular destination – with magnificent waterfalls, sky-scraping granite rock formations, and ancient giant sequoias; the park saw over 4.5 million visitors in 2019! Additionally, having over 800 miles of hiking trails within 1187 square miles of park, Yosemite is a popular destination for anyone loving the outdoors. And considering camping fees are only $26 per night for a stay in an outdoor wonderland and chance to sleep under the stars, it’s no wonder winning this lottery is a crapshoot!

Now, during the Pandemic, Upper Pines campground may be the only one open for reservation requests (and only partially with up to 50% of campsites remaining closed for social distancing) out of 13 campgrounds in Yosemite. And, even before the pandemic, Upper Pines campgrounds has been one of the most popular in Yosemite Valley since it offers roomy campsites under tall pines with stunning views of El Capitan and Half Dome. But, with only 240 campsites (and much fewer with current restrictions in place), Upper Pines campground reservations become a lottery on the 15^th of each month (reservations are released one month at a time, five months in advance).

(1). The first thing you will need to get a campground reservation at Yosemite is a free account on recreation.gov if you don’t already have one. This is the online system that allows for reservations across the National Park system. Once you have your account setup, you can search campgrounds you want and review site lists which give details about each campsite. After you decide when you want to visit Yosemite, log onto recreation.gov and search your desired campground. For example, search Upper Pines to get a site list description of the campground, fees charged, and the chance to view the list of sites and site availability. It’s a good idea to go through the sites well in advance and pick out 8 to 10 sites that will accommodate your small travel trailer (many have detailed descriptions of the campsite, such as whether it is in shade or close to a restroom). Pick some sites that are highly desirable (such as overlooking a meadow or stream) and some that are average. This will increase your odds of getting a spot because there are many more people trying to get the highly desirable spots.

(2). Figure out when you would like to go to Yosemite and count back five months to understand when you will need to make your online reservation. For example, if you want to go sometime between May 15th and June 14th, you will need to make a reservation online five months earlier at 7 a.m. PST on January 15^th. At the present time, the system does allow you to extend your reservation past the 14^th if your arrival date is on or before the 14^th. This presents an interesting strategy in allowing booking into the next reservation window which is not yet open and, in turn, possibly increasing your chances of getting a campsite. For example, if you want to stay in the second part of June for a week, you could still book on January 15^th by booking an arrival date on June 14^th and checking out June 21^st!

(3). Get your list of 8 to 10 sites ready for the morning of the 15^th. Don’t worry about booking more than one site, because you are actually not booking the campsite until you go through the complete reservation including payment. Clicking on Book Now will just hold the site for 15 minutes until you complete your reservation. If you don’t follow through with the reservation, the site will be re-released to the public after 15 minutes.

(4). Plan to start online prepping at around 6:30 a.m. (PST) on reservation morning – sign into your account and start clicking on each site you want (making sure it hasn’t already been reserved during the previous reservation cycle, if it is close to the date of the previous month cutoff). The recreation.gov website will automatically open a new browser window for each site you click on. You will now have multiple browser windows open (one for each desired campsite, perhaps 8 to 10) with each displaying the Book Now buttons and price of the stay. Open up an accurate time website like this one to carefully monitor PST. As soon as the time hits 6:59 a.m. and 50 seconds start clicking on each Book Now button in your windows. The idea is to get your reservation in exactly at 7 a.m. If you are just a little too early, the reservation request will bounce and you will have to click Book Now again. You are likely competing against thousands of clicks for 240 or less campsite spots. Once you reach the end of the windows, go back to each of the windows from the start to see if you got lucky. If you did, you will see a shopping cart on the top right with 1 item and a timer counting down from 15 minutes. If you do not complete your reservation within 15 minutes, it will be released back into inventory. All available sites will usually be gobbled up within a couple of minutes or less.

If you didn’t win the online reservation lottery this time, don’t despair. First, check back on recreation.gov around 7:15 a.m. the same morning as there is a good chance some reservations didn’t go through and the sites have been re-released for purchasing. When searching at 7:15 a.m., select your dates and then View by Availability. If you see a campsite that may work, click on it immediately to at least secure it for 15 minutes while you figure out if it really is a viable option for you. If no campsites are available, and you are feeling especially lucky, you could just drive to Yosemite and see if any first-come, first-served campsites are open. Please check here if this idea seems thrilling. If this sounds a bit too risky, another option is to stay outside the park at a private campground. Or, you can try using CampFlare– a free service website that scans the reservation systems for last minute openings and notifies you when a campsite becomes available.

Having a small travel trailer will greatly slant the odds in your favor at winning Yosemite’s Campground Reservations Lottery because most of the campsites are small. So far, I’m two for two at this lottery! Hopefully the above tips will put you in the winner’s circle as well! Good luck! See you up at Yosemite!

5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

By: gavin

December 11, 2020

5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

Particle board is an engineered wood product made with wood chips and glue (synthetic resin). The main reason manufacturers of small travel trailers use particle board for tables, countertops, doors, and drawers / cabinets is because it’s cheap. Here are 5 reasons you may consider replacing particle board in your camper:

(1). Particle board can be very heavy. It’s held together with glue (resin) and the weight can add up quickly. We are in the process of replacing our 2020 Scamp 13’ table (actually two tables since we ordered the 54” bigger bed option) and we just weighed the smaller bed support table (20” long x 29.5” wide). We used ¾” maple plywood purchased from Home Depot for our new table. Our original particle board small table weighs 12.4 lbs., compared to our new fully varnished (high gloss interior polyurethane with 3 coats) small table at 6.8 lbs. That’s a huge weight difference (the particle board table is about 80% heavier).

(2). Particle board can be very weak. Because it’s made from wood chips and glue, it doesn’t have the structural strength of real lumber. For most purposes in the small travel trailer, that’s OK because putting food or other items on a table generally won’t break the particle board. However, any metal fittings that are screwed into the particle board have the potential of ripping out if exposed to a load. That’s what happened one day recently when I was setting up our Scamp table. As I was elevating the table to its upright position and sliding the thin metal brackets into their clamshell receptacles attached to the wall, one of the hardware fittings attached underneath the Scamp table ripped right out (all the screws and the particle board they were screwed into), leaving a big crater underneath the table.

(3). Particle board is highly porous. So, if any moisture happens to leak underneath its veneer cover, the particle board can easily absorb the moisture, expand, and warp. Additionally, it can be susceptible to mold which may eat through the board and cause various health issues.

(4). Particle board can be toxic if manufactured with formaldehyde resin (which it commonly is). The resin can break down for years and release formaldehyde gas (called “off gassing”). The gas can pollute the interior air of the small travel trailer and cause eyes to water, throats to burn, and difficulty breathing. This gas is also known to be carcinogenic and toxic, meaning it may cause certain types of cancer. It’s also been linked to an increased risk of allergies and asthma in children. The U.S. Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR) states that “chronic exposure to formaldehyde may also cause general damage to the central nervous system, such as increased prevalence of headache, depression, mood changes, insomnia, irritability, attention deficit, and impairment of dexterity, memory and equilibrium.”

(5). Particle board can be ugly. Although this may be a matter of personal preference, I’ve always found the wood veneer skins that are glued to many particle board surfaces to have a dated and artificial appearance. In contrast, maple or birch veneers on plywood are really great looking.

It’s understandable that a manufacturer producing hundreds or thousands of units of travel trailers would choose particle board to save extensively on build costs. However, that doesn’t mean you have to live with what some describe as “cut rate cheap junk” in your travel trailer. For the 5 reasons listed above, replacing the particle board (or at least some of it) in your small travel trailer is worth serious consideration. Because particle board has a lower expected life span compared to plywood due to being weak and porous, you might just have to replace it anyway in the near future (as in our case with our 12 month old 2020 Scamp 13’ table / bed). If you do decide to replace any of your particle board with plywood, just make sure that the plywood type you choose is constructed with non-toxic adhesives (e.g. no formaldehyde). The maple plywood sheeting we purchased at Home Depot is made without formaldehyde using a soy-based technology, “producing a water-resistant, nontoxic decorative plywood panel that is not prone to warp like solid wood and will not emit harmful fumes or degrade interior air quality.”

Methods to Avoid Dreaded False Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector Alarms

By: gavin

December 8, 2020

Methods to Avoid Dreaded False Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector Alarms

Small travel trailers are usually outfitted with combination Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarms. The one in our 2020 Scamp 13’ is located near the front door under one of the dinette seats. It’s essential that every small travel trailer have one of these alarms because smoke and carbon monoxide exposure can be lethal. Carbon monoxide is a poisonous gas that cannot be seen or smelled and is produced by liquid propane. CO gas can potentially enter the travel trailer via a gas stove or gas powered water heater (or gas powered heaters and generators). Carbon monoxide is especially toxic when built up in a small enclosed space like a small travel trailer. So, it’s really important that the Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector is functioning properly and is replaced by the marked replace date. It’s also imperative that an alarm be taken very seriously as it could make the difference between life and death. If you have a Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarm, the recommended procedure is to quickly exit your trailer and turn off your propane tanks outside (leaving the trailer door open to ventilate).

False alarms from Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarms in small travel trailers are very common, but also sometimes frightening when first experienced (which often is around 2 a.m.). I had my first one after walking out of a steamy shower and opening the bathroom door compartment into the main cabin. The alarm immediately went off. We also experienced one in the middle of the night when sleeping with closed windows and no fan running. In both cases, we cleared the alarms quickly by opening up a window and running the fan on high for several minutes. We learned that the most common cause for these types of false alarms is heavy moisture in the air (which can be caused by both a steamy shower and keeping all windows closed and allowing condensation inside the trailer).

Ever since our first Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector false alarms and learning that air moisture is usually their cause, we have avoided these dreaded alerts by keeping air flowing in our Scamp 13’. We always turn on the bathroom fan and the main cabin fan (with one window slightly open) when taking a shower. This ensures that air is blowing through the trailer. The interior of our Scamp 13’ can also get condensation during the night if sleeping with all windows completely shut and no fans running. In turn, when we go to sleep, we usually have a window slightly open and the main cabin fan running on low (and running the furnace if it is cold out). Note: it’s also a good idea to open your stove window and run your fan when cooking with your gas stove (we run our fan with the air blowing OUT) to vent out all gas fumes.

So, when showering and sleeping in your small travel trailer, always try to keep at least the bathroom fan on when showering, and the roof fan on (OUT setting) and a window slightly open throughout the night. They don’t have to be open very much, just enough to keep air flowing. Even if it’s really cold out, you can keep these open and run your furnace. The furnace will keep you warm. If you follow these recommendations and keep your small travel trailer properly ventilated, you are unlikely to be awakened in the middle of the night by a false Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarm or have issues with condensation. And, your small travel trailer will likely be filled with cleaner fresher air by bringing fresh air in and flushing out indoor air pollution.

Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

By: gavin

December 5, 2020

Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

Small travel trailers aren’t too complex, but one important system you should know something about is the electrical system and how it works. The most important reason for this is so that you always have the power you need to at least run the most essential functions necessary to keep your trailer operating (e.g. LED lights, water pumps, heater, and perhaps an electric tongue jack). Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC). Your trailer’s battery is about 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to never let your trailer’s battery go below 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity). A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor your trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install one when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs them on its 2021 models).

A good way of explaining how electricity works in your small travel trailer is by using the water/hose analogy. Your trailer’s battery can be thought of as a water pump; the charge of your battery is water, voltage is the water pressure pushing the water through the hose (trailer’s electrical cables), the current being the flow of the water (measured in Amps), and power is the total amount of water flowing in a given time (measured in watts). Most campgrounds offer 110V AC 30 amp outlets (typically the amperage used in small travel trailer electrical systems) and sometimes 110V AC 50 amp outlets (used for large RVs – for running two or more high-powered devices simultaneously like an electric water heater and AC). The higher number of amps means more power can be supplied to your trailer at any given time. Campgrounds may also offer 15/20 amp outlets at 110V AC (like the ones typically found at home). These outlets provide less power capacity than 30 / 50 amp outlets (meaning you may not be able to run your AC and electric water heater at the same time without tripping the circuit breaker) and generally should only be used as a last resort if a 30 amp hookup is not available for your small travel trailer (or if you are at a home using a 110V Male to 30A Female adapter). It’s also a good idea to have an auxiliary battery power bank, like a Jackery 500, for use when you are off grid and want to preserve your trailer’s 12V battery power for essential devices.

Your small travel trailer will likely have a converter which converts 110 volt power coming in from your campground hookup outlet into 12 Volts. This enables all the 12 volt devices in your small travel trailer to work off 110V, like your LED lights, pumps, etc. When hooked up, you will also be able to use the 110V outlets inside your small travel trailer to power other plug-in devices you bring along with you on your trip (being careful not to exceed the circuit limits in your trailer – often 15 or 20 amp fuses / circuit breakers). However, if your small travel trailer has 110V outlets, they are unlikely to work without hookups because most small trailers don’t have inverters (allows your 12V battery to power 110 volt outlets). Common devices running off electricity inside your small travel trailer are LED lights, a fresh water pump that pressurizes your water system and allows you to use your fresh water tank (city water provided by a hose hookup does not require a pump since it in itself provides continuous water pressure), a water pump under the shower floor to keep the shower water draining into the grey tank and preventing the shower floor from flooding, the bathroom fan, the main overhead fan, TV, the electric furnace blower fan which blows the hot air typically produced by the propane heater, and other electric ignition systems used for lighting gas powered devices like the water heater, and potentially others.

One very important item that should be with your small travel trailer at all times is a 110V Male to 30A Female dogbone adapter. This will allow you to connect your trailer’s 30A power cord into a regular household 110V outlet. It’s essential when you want to hook up at a house or anywhere there is just a regular 110V outlet. Since we store our Scamp travel trailer in our garage, we constantly use the adapter to keep our battery charged and also run the Scamp lights and other appliances when necessary. Additionally, we often use the adapter so we can power our Scamp’s refrigerator the day before we leave on a trip so we can put our groceries in early [since our Scamp has 3 modes for running the fridge – AC, 12V (when driving), and Propane (when no electricity is available at the campground)]. Lastly, it’s very common for us to stop at a relative’s house during our trips and we use the adapter for power when we driveway camp.

A large external independent battery power bank can power many of your essential devices while preserving your travel trailer’s battery power for your super essential appliances like lights, fans, and pumps. We purchased the Jackery 500 which has 518Wh of power (which can power a lot of devices for a long time). To calculate how long the Jackery 500 (which is rated at 518 Wh) will run devices, simply divide the device’s total energy in the powerbank (518W) by the appliance’s energy draw (measured in Watts). For example, our 12V TV draws 28W, so it should run about 18.5 hours (518Wh/28W). We recently used our 12V TV powered by the Jackery on a trip from San Diego to Oregon and watched two hour movies each night for five nights and there was still about 50% charge left on the Jackery, confirming this calculation. When boondocking (no power hookups), use your battery power bank to run your TV, charge your batteries (phone, camera, drone, etc.) and other portable battery powered devices. This will ensure your small travel trailer batteries are completely dedicated to your essential devices. The Jackery 500 has a 12V cigarette socket, USB ports, and even a 110V outlet. It can even be used to run a portable air compressor. You can charge it in your car while driving between camping locations, with 110V power outlets at campsites, and also with a solar panel.

Just because your small travel trailer is connected up to a 30A hookup, doesn’t mean all that current can flow through to your devices. Your small travel trailer has fuses for each circuit to protect devices within your trailer. Many of these circuits are allocated only 15 or 20 amps to protect the devices on the circuit and the 15/20 amp fuses protecting these circuits will blow if too many lights and appliances draw power from the circuit. If this happens, the metal ribbon inside the fuse will melt and the circuit will go dead (meaning all the devices on the circuit will be rendered temporarily useless until the fuse if replaced). This is designed to protect your appliances from getting too much power and, in turn, damaged. So, it’s important you don’t plug anything in which may place too much demand on your small travel trailer’s electrical system (e.g. hairdryer). So, when adding new 110V plug-in devices to your trailer, check the device’s power requirements (divide the device’s Watts / 110 volts = # of amps). For example, if you want to use a small electric ceramic space heater, calculate the device’s amps and make sure it will draw less than the circuit can handle (let’s assume 15 amps) when also considering all other appliances on the circuit. Each fuse in your small travel trailer should be labeled so you know what circuit it represents. In this case, if there are already devices which are running at 6 amps on the circuit you want to use (you would have to figure out and calculate each device’s power requirements on that circuit if you want to be extra precise), then the ceramic space heater should use no more than 9 amps since 6 amps + 9 amps = 15 amps (and preferably less to be conservative). If more than 15 amps is drawn, then the fuse will blow. We just purchased a small electric space heater for our Scamp and calculated its current draws at medium (600W / 110v = 5.5 amps) and high heat settings (1200W / 110v = 10.9 amps). We haven’t calculated all the devices’ power requirements on each circuit, but are comfortable we should be ok using the heater on the medium setting since the draw is only 5.5 amps (we wouldn’t risk using the high heat setting as just this heater alone is getting close to 15 amps and there could be other devices on the circuit we plug the heater into). Alternatively, we could plug the heater straight into our Jackery 500 and run it on medium heat setting for about 50 minutes (518Wh/600W) or on the high heat setting for approximately 25 minutes (518Wh/1200W). As you can see from this example, the ceramic heater draws too much power to run it for hours off a small portable auxiliary battery power bank. In turn, it would be best to run this heater off of hookups at the campground or using the trailer’s propane powered furnace when off grid.

Some great electrical accessories to have in your small travel trailer are a good surge protector, a big box of fuses (in case you blow one), an electrical tester, and a solar panel.

Good surge protector: It is common to hear stories about bad wiring at campgrounds. And, plugging your travel trailer directly into a bad circuit or getting a power surge could cause damage to your trailer’s electrical system and appliances. To avoid the risk, it’s best to use a good surge protector every time you plug in your trailer. We have used the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X for almost a year and have had a really good experience with it. The scrolling digital display shows if there are any errors with the campground wiring and provides peace of mind that the power is clean. It has a weather shield and a secure locking bracket to prevent theft.

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Big box of auto fuses: It would be extremely annoying if an entire trip was ruined because no lights and other devices worked as a result of a blown eight cent fuse! We purchased this 120 fuse set on Amazon (make sure to check your small travel trailer accepts standard-sized auto fuses) and we store it under one of our kitchen dinette benches in our Scamp. Alternatively, there are also super cool GLOW fuses that glow when they are blown (but expect to pay more for these)!

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Electrical Tester: a digital multimeter is a great tool to check electrical continuity (such as seeing if a fuse is blown it’s not visible) or checking if power is coming out of the solar panel cables.

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Solar Panel: a 100W solar panel is a great option to help recharge your small travel trailer batteries daily when camping without hookups. We’ve found our solar panel can maintain our Scamp’s battery at 12.5V (a good place) for days on end as long as the sun shines. The solar panel may also be used to recharge your independent power bank.

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The Economics of Owning a Small Travel Trailer

By: gavin

December 2, 2020

The Economics of Owning a Small Travel Trailer

If you’re like me, you probably want to stay in a nice place when travelling. A place that is both clean and comfortable and located in a desirable location. And, the lodging cost must not be exorbitantly expensive. Everyone has different standards regarding what is an acceptable accommodation, and this will greatly determine the outcome of a cost comparison between buying a small travel trailer vs. staying in a hotel when travelling. For people who don’t mind staying in inexpensive motels and whose main objective is to save money (and perhaps don’t desire or appreciate the experiences and beauty of staying right inside a National or State Park or are not concerned about bed bugs), buying a small travel trailer may not make economic sense. But, for many, the case for buying a small travel trailer is compelling.

A lot of people who own small travel trailers likely don’t purchase one with the sole purpose of saving money. They like the freedom of having their own home on wheels they can take with them whenever they get the desire to travel. And they enjoy the comfort a small travel trailer provides — having a small travel trailer means the interior can be tailored to the owner’s preferences, including colors, deluxe bedding and personalized amenities (like shampoos, gourmet food, etc.). And, there are far fewer concerns about germs since everything in your space is yours! This is especially true during the pandemic. For us, the main reason we decided to buy a small travel trailer is so that we could stay in the midst of beautiful State and National Parks (where it would be almost impossible, extremely expensive or uncomfortable to stay otherwise).

The average rate at a Hilton hotel in the U.S. last year was around $145 / night and slightly over $200 / night at a Marriott. And, rates at hotels within National Parks are often much higher. For example, as of this writing, the rate at the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite for June 2021 starts at $341 / night (and goes up to $1,302 / night). Lodging rates in larger popular cities, such as San Francisco, also tend to be particularly high. In contrast, campsite rates at State and National Parks are typically $45 or less / night. It is important to note that there is often rate inflation, annually pushing nightly hotel rates continually higher year after year. In contrast, once you buy your small travel trailer, the only rate inflation you may experience will be the campground fees (which generally are very low). And, after spending a night at a hotel, you’ve spent your money and walk away (just carrying away the experience). In contrast, at the end of your trip staying in your small travel trailer, you get to drive it home and use it again and again! And, interestingly, small fiberglass travel trailers like the Scamp, typically hold their value very well over time so you shouldn’t experience significant depreciation either.

Because everyone’s situation is different (e.g. hotel preference, RV preference, number of people travelling, type of tow vehicle, food preference, # of days travelling….), it would be very superficial to draw a specific exact numerical conclusion on the cost savings which may be achieved by travelling by small travel trailer. But, in general, the savings tend to be significant because nightly rates at campgrounds are usually significantly less than at hotels and food can be brought along and prepared in the trailer vs. paying a premium at restaurants. However, there are some considerations that may make travelling by small travel trailer more expensive or less desirable. For example, if a tow vehicle is not already owned, this could be a significant expense. Also, driving long distances each day can significantly raise the cost of a driving trip due to fuel costs. Additionally, buying a more expensive small travel trailer (e.g. Airstream) or paying a lot to rent one can eliminate any cost savings as well. And, some people may just prefer hotels and eating out at restaurants despite higher costs. And, in some situations, hotels may be better situated for a specific location preference.

Having just completed our first year owning our 2020 Scamp 13’ small travel trailer — spending 31 nights during 6 trips and visiting 22 locations – our experience has been extremely positive and economically sound. We paid about $18K for our almost fully loaded Scamp (with wider 54” bed and front bathroom), including the $2,195 delivery charge (driven from the Scamp factory in Backus, Minnesota to our home in San Diego, California). We store our Scamp in our garage, so there are no storage costs. We pay less than $400 / year for travel trailer insurance. California PTI registration (for travel trailers 16’ or less) is only $10 every 5 years! Maintenance costs on small travel trailers are extremely low. Our campground stays for the year averaged around $33 / night for a total of just over $1K for our first year (31 nights) of travelling in our Scamp 13’. One contributing factor to this low rate is that a number of stay overs were for free at either relative’s homes or Harvest Hosts or Boondockers Welcome sites. We also brought our own food along for all our trips or had meals with relatives at their homes. If we had stayed in hotels for the 31 nights and purchased meals each day, we probably would have conservatively spent around $200 / night or over $6K for our first year [31 nights x ($150 / night + $50 / meals / day for 2 people)]. So, in our case, based on our first year of travel, we saved roughly $5K in one year by owning a small travel trailer, which is almost 30% the cost of the trailer in savings. It’s easy to see, that if one purchases a reasonably priced small travel trailer (<$20K), it will likely pay for itself in just a few years of travel if used regularly.

We’ve found the benefits of owning and travelling with a small travel trailer go way beyond economic. We’ve been able to experience exquisitely beautiful locations in a variety of different settings in State and National Parks over the past year (see our Adventures section). Despite what is regularly reported in the news, we did not experience crowds at the campgrounds we’ve visited. We did have some difficulty in finding open campgrounds at the last minute, but always found alternative available locations. The campsites have usually been extremely quiet. And, we have not missed the typical noises coming from behind a hotel room wall, sheet inspections of a hotel room bed, being very hygienically careful in hotel bathrooms or wondering about food safety when eating out. It’s been great waking up in nature and making pancakes on our stove or meeting up with friends also staying at the campground for a hike. Watching a movie at a remote location is also a special treat (see How to Watch Movies in the Wild). We’ve also enjoyed staying over in relatives’ driveways to visit as well as free stay overs at farms (Harvest Hosts / Boondockers Welcome). Lastly, we’ve made a number of friends who we never would have met without staying in campgrounds.

Owning a small travel trailer can not only be an economic win as a travelling solution, but may also provide unexpected social, culinary, fitness, and soul filling opportunities along the way. Highly recommended!