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Safely Positioning Your Trailer into Tight Spaces

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Safely Positioning Your Trailer into Tight Spaces
One undoubtedly will encounter situations on adventures where it may be tricky getting their small travel trailer into its spot.  These types of events often occur when arriving at a destination and either access is difficult (e.g. narrow entrance, steep entrance, tight turn, etc.) or the parking spot itself is challenging (e.g. trees or other potential hazards surround the site).  The key to successfully overcoming these obstacles is to take things slowly, have a helper if possible, and carry along a couple of useful items (e.g. walkie talkies and 2×4 wood parking chocks).

Since backing into a site is a very common approach at many campgrounds, it’s important to have eyes behind the trailer during the backing up process.  A backup camera on the small travel trailer can help, but it’s always best to have a helper outside and behind the trailer who can speak via two way radio with the driver.  We always carry a pair of small walkie talkies with us in the tow vehicle and use them pretty much every time we arrive at the campsite (an inexpensive pair will do since distance between radios is very limited).  Your partner will safely guide you into the spot and give a rough countdown in feet until you should stop backing up.   Before backing up into your spot though, park the tow vehicle if possible and get out and walk behind the trailer to survey the parking site.  This also lets you talk to your partner and arrive at a general understanding on the best area to place and park the trailer.  It’s good to take into consideration which area of the site is most level, shady, allows the trailer door enough room to open, has a level surface for the rear stabilizer pads, and any other desired features.  If you don’t have a helper, getting out of the vehicle is really important as well to help you survey the campsite.

Taking things slowly is the best way to avoid any mishaps.  For small travel trailers, this means always backing up slowly and taking the time to stop backing up and pulling forward to straighten out before backing up again.  Straightening out the trailer whenever the angle between the trailer and the tow vehicle starts to get significant makes backing into the spot much easier.  Ideally, it’s easiest to back into a spot with no or almost no angle between the tow vehicle and the small travel trailer.  This may mean straightening out a few times, but, overall it makes the process much easier (vs. backing in at a radical angle).  It also may make hitching up the trailer again when leaving easier if the hitch is parallel to the entrance to the campsite.  Once you have identified all potential hazards after surveying the trailer’s parking spot, proceed with caution and listen closely to your helper over the radio (or, if working alone, take time to go slowly and park and get out whenever necessary to check on your progress).

The easiest campsites to get into are the ones that are called “pull through” sites.  As the name suggests, these sites just involve driving straight into the campsite tow vehicle first.  We visited such a site at Pismo Beach North Beach Campground.  Pulling into our site here was a breeze (and right next to the beach)!  We simply drove through the campground and then drove right into our site.  We did unhitch and move our tow vehicle a few feet forward so we could easily raise and lower our electric tongue jack for leveling the trailer.  Hitching back up and leaving was also a piece of cake.  We have only stayed at a couple of campsites so far at a pull through site.

Most of the campgrounds we have visited have been campsites which require backing the trailer onto the pad.  For the most part, this is generally pretty straightforward (while following the tips above).  However, occasionally we have had times when the campsite pad was angled such that driving in only one direction would make backing onto the pad possible.  We encountered this at one of the first campgrounds we ever visited, D.L. Bliss State Park in Lake Tahoe.  Our campsite was located near the bottom of a steep narrow road overlooking the lake.  The campsite pad was angled forward toward the lake, making attempts to try to back onto the pad fruitless (greater than a 90 degree angle in the wrong direction between the road and the pad).  And, the road was so narrow that there was no room to use the tow vehicle to angle the trailer in such an extreme way.  Fortunately, a neighboring camper was watching and he informed us that there was a turnaround at the bottom of the road so we could approach the pad from the opposite direction.  Once we turned around, it was very easy to back our Scamp 13’ into its spot since the angle of the road and pad were compatible in this direction.  We’ve also had other experiences where driving a little forward onto the shoulder of the access road was necessary to straighten out the trailer enough to back onto the pad.  This usually occurs when the main road is very narrow.

One of the most difficult approaches to make with your trailer is when there is a steep transition onto a driveway (see video).  This usually happens when staying at someone’s house or other private location.  Backing in slowly and having a helper calling out the progression is of utmost importance in these situations to avoid scraping the rear parts of the trailer’s undercarriage and or damaging the front trailer tongue jack.  If the transition is too great and parts of the trailer will not clear, having a couple of 2 x 4 boards (short wheel chocks may work) might mean the difference between getting into and out of the driveway unscathed or either giving up or suffering trailer damage.  The most important thing is to go very slowly and stop as soon as it looks like something on the trailer may scrape on the driveway.  You will need to assess if the boards you are using to raise the rear of your tow vehicle will be satisfactory enough to provide proper clearance.  It’s important to note that if something looks too dicey it’s always better to forgo the attempt and park somewhere else than risk damaging your trailer (we’ve done this before and elected not to take the risk and parked on the street instead).

We did experience the above type of situation while visiting my sister’s house in Oakland on the 4th of July.  We didn’t want to park and sleep on the street in East Oakland because it gets very rowdy in this area on this holiday.  The transition angle from street to driveway at my sister’s house is severe and although the bottom rear of our Scamp 13’ just cleared, it was evident that our electric tongue jack was going to hit the driveway if we proceeded (see video).  So, we stopped the trailer and took a couple of our 2 x 4 wheel chocks and placed them under each rear wheel of our tow vehicle.  As we drove up on the boards, the tongue jack raised enough to navigate over the steepest part of the transition and avoid hitting the ground.  That wasn’t the only challenge we had on this driveway!  The clearance on each side of the Scamp 13’ was minimal due to a fence on one side and home wall on the other and having a helper watch each side of the trailer as I backed in slowly was essential!  It is important to note, that we also needed to use the 2 x 4s when pulling out of the driveway as well (adding the 2 x 4s in front of the rear wheels at the same spot where the tongue jack initially wasn’t going to clear).  Everything worked out well and we have stayed in my sister’s driveway a couple of times now using this method without incident!

With careful planning, taking things slowly, having some proper tools and preferably a helper, navigating your small travel trailer into tight spaces will become not only entirely possible but very rewarding.  The satisfaction gained is only recognized after having done it!  And, after you do it once, you may want to do it again and again (or not)!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Dumping for Beginners

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Dumping for Beginners
If there are any holding tanks (Grey or Black) within your small travel trailer, you will need to Dump them before they are completely full.  The Fresh tank holds your fresh water supply for your sink, shower (and hot water heater), and toilet – this tank does not need to be dumped because it feeds both the Grey and Black tanks.  The Grey tank holds the run-off water from your sink and shower.  And, the Black tank holds the waste water from the toilet.  Some small travel trailers have tank monitors which tell how full each tank is by pressing a button (we had one of these installed in our Scamp).  If your small travel trailer doesn’t have a tank monitor, then you will need to learn how to tell when it is time to Dump the tanks through other means like visual inspection.

We have learned through experience that the Grey tank is a small travel trailer’s Achilles heel when hookups aren’t available.  For us two people (taking 2 showers each night), our twenty one gallon Grey tank fills up in about three days.  Once the Grey tank is full, water can no longer drain from the shower floor or sink, and water backing up into these areas is highly likely.  The Fresh water tank is much easier to manage because the 12 gallon tank can easily be refilled using a portable water jug and water is usually available at most campgrounds (but not all).  Additionally, water can be stored in portable containers and transported in the tow vehicle.  We’ve found that the 9 gallon Black tank takes much longer to fill than the Grey tank.  Our Black tank usually takes about 6 days (two people) before needing to be dumped.

When it is time to Dump, which will likely be on your very first trip, you will want to make sure you are prepared with some essential supplies and knowledge.  The basic items needed are disposable sanitary gloves (e.g. latex gloves) and a RV sewer hose.  I keep latex gloves in our tow vehicle so they are ready to grab as soon as we pull up to the Dump station.  Side note:  some Dump stations also have potable water (safe to drink) filling stations (like Upper Pines Campground in Yosemite).  If you are pulling in dry and need to fill your Fresh tank, this is usually done first before messing with the dirty stuff.  I like to use my own Fresh hose if possible (for sanitary reasons) and I always attach a water filter to run the water through before it enters our Scamp.

Our Scamp 13’ travel trailer has two separate valves for dumping (both on the Driver’s side) –a Black water valve at the front of the trailer to dump toilet waste (labeled SEWER HOLDING TANK), and a Grey water valve at the back of the trailer to dump all the Grey water (labeled WASTE WATER HOLDING TANK).  We use one RV sewer hose for dumping both Black and Grey tanks (one at a time).  Because the Scamp 13’ has two valves on the opposite ends of the trailer, the first thing I do when pulling up to the Dump drain is to center the trailer on the drain so that the sewer hose will be able to reach the drain when connected to either the Black or Grey valves without having to move the Scamp.  If your small travel trailer only has one valve (e.g. one tank for both Black and Grey waste), then just pull right up so the dump drain and your single valve are aligned.  It’s a good idea if you do have two valves to drain your Black tank first and follow up by draining your Grey tank – this allows the Grey water to wash out the toilet waste water and keeps the RV sewer hose cleaner.

Easy Dump Steps:

  1. Pull your trailer up to the Dump station and align your valve(s) appropriately so your RV sewer hose will easily be able to reach from each valve connection to the Dump drain.
  2. Put on disposable sanitary gloves
  3. Pull your RV sewer hose outside its holding container (on our Scamp 13’, it’s held in a tube attached to the front of the trailer).
  4. Uncap the Black tank valve opening (but do not pull the valve lever yet). Connect bayonet hose fitting onto your Black tank valve (ensure it is securely attached with both bayonet sides engaged).
  5. Stretch out the hose and, with your shoe, open up the Dump cover (usually there is a little metal plate at the hinge that you can press on with your shoe to open up the Dump cover).
  6. Insert your RV sewer hose into the Dump hole at least a few inches into the hole so it won’t pull out while dumping.
  7. Release pressure on the Dump hinge plate with your shoe so that the Dump cover rests on top of the RV sewer hose and securely holds it in place (sometimes there is also a rock nearby that you can place on top of the cover to be extra secure). You definitely don’t want your hose coming out while dumping!
  8. Once you are satisfied that your RV sewer hose is securely attached to your tank valve and also inserted properly into the Dump hole, pull on your trailer’s Black tank valve handle to release the contents of the tank (Black first, and Grey after if you have two separate tanks).
  9. Allow plenty of time for all the contents of the tank to flow out. You may need to lift the center of the RV sewer hose a few times if there isn’t a good downward slope from trailer to Dump hole to ensure waste contents move along into the hole.
  10. After done with the Black tank, close the Black tank valve, and carefully detach the RV sewer hose from the Black tank valve (as you do it, position the hose right under the valve drain so as to catch any remaining residual runoff), recap the Black valve opening, and move over and uncap the Grey tank valve opening and attach the RV sewer hose to the Grey tank valve and repeat the steps above. Make sure all tank valves are recapped when complete.
  11. If there is a dump wash hose nearby, you can rinse out your RV sewer hose before placing it back into its holder.

Our travel strategy thus far has been to carefully arrange stops so that the ones without a Dump are limited to only a few days maximum (or have a Dump station available at a convenient service station).  For example, on our trip to Lake Tahoe last July, we first stopped in Santa Barbara and driveway-camped at our Cousin Jon’s house.  Since our next stop was going to be at an olive oil farm in Paso Robles without hookups followed by street camping at my sister’s house in Oakland, we dumped at a 76 station on the way out of Santa Barbara.  We didn’t want to risk having a full Grey tank and not being able to use any water in our Scamp.  We knew we could dump at DL Bliss State Park at Lake Tahoe after our Oakland stay over, so we would be OK as long as we did this interim Dump.  The following month, we took a trip to Observatory Campground (Palomar Mountain) to view the stars.  There are no hookups there (although water spigots are available), so again we needed to carefully consider our time up on Palomar Mountain to ensure our Grey tank was not filled up (we ended up staying only one night).

Dumping is easy and fun once you get the hang of it.  It’s a great feeling when everything is connected properly and one pulls the lever and the tanks are drained.  And, after a while, you will know how to plan your dump days so that you always have plenty of holding tank space during your trips.  Once you are at that point, which should be fairly quickly, you will likely enjoy singing the featured original song in this demonstration video!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

The Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution!

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The Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution!
After taking your small travel trailer on a number of trips, you get a feel for the types of places where you like to spend time.  For most people, these locations include State and National parks and many of these campgrounds do not offer Dump stations.  For the first year with our Scamp 13’, it was necessary to plan our adventures so that stays at such places were limited to only several days because that’s the time it usually takes for our twenty one gallon Grey tank to become full.  Our Grey tank was our limiting factor (not the Fresh, nor the Black tank).  Of course, we could elect not to take hot showers every night (brief ones!), but what fun would that be?!!!  It’s nice to feel fresh and clean before going to bed each night!

We learned through experience that the Grey tank is a small travel trailer’s Achilles heel when hookups aren’t available.  For us two people (taking 2 showers each night), our twenty one gallon Grey tank fills up in about three days.  Once the Grey tank is full, water can no longer drain from the shower floor or sink, and water backing up into these areas is highly likely.  The Fresh water tank is much easier to manage because the 12 gallon tank can easily be refilled using a portable water jug and water is usually available at most campgrounds (but not all).  Additionally, water can be stored in portable containers and transported in the tow vehicle.  We’ve found that the 9 gallon Black tank takes much longer to fill than the Grey tank.  Our Black tank usually takes about 6 days (two people) before needing to be dumped.  Lastly, although technically not a tank, we consider our 12V battery to be like a tank as it holds our electrons (about 12.6V when full).  These electrons are vital in keeping our Scamp running (e.g. LED lights, water pumps, furnace pump, fan, etc.).  When our battery is not hooked up, it can drain pretty quickly (within a couple days) if not carefully monitored.  However, we use our solar briefcase and it does a great job of keeping the battery topped off (as long as there’s sun every couple of days).  Our Jackery 500 also helps us keep our Scamp battery reserved for necessary functions.

Our travel strategy thus far has been to carefully arrange stops so that the ones without a Dump are limited to only a few days maximum (or have a Dump station available at a convenient service station).  For example, on our trip to Lake Tahoe last July, we first stopped in Santa Barbara and driveway-camped at our cousin Jon’s house.  Since our next stop was going to be at an olive oil farm in Paso Robles without hookups followed by street camping at my sister’s house in Oakland, we dumped at a 76 station on the way out of Santa Barbara.  We didn’t want to risk having a full Grey tank and not being able to use any water in our Scamp.  We knew we could dump at DL Bliss State Park at Lake Tahoe after our Oakland stay over, so we would be OK as long as we did this interim Dump.  The following month, we took a trip to Observatory Campground (Palomar Mountain) to view the stars.  There are no hookups here (although water spigots are available), so again we needed to carefully consider our time up on Palomar Mountain to ensure our Grey tank was not filled up (we ended up staying only one night).

The trip that really got us thinking about a way to extend our boondocking stays was Mammoth Lakes last August.  Our friends Hugh and Cheryl stay at Silver Lake Resort the same week every year.  They invited us to join them last summer and we were lucky enough to get a reservation.  This private RV park is right on Silver Lake (close to Mammoth Lakes) and is very popular and hard to get reservations at.  The spaces are tight (huge RV motorhomes very close to each other) and pricey (around $49 / night), but provide a great location and scenic views with a mountain backdrop.  Additionally, there are full hookups, a general store, and a nice restaurant (as well as boating and fishing on the lake, horseback riding, and great hiking trails).  We enjoyed our stay there, but couldn’t help but notice a large State campground called Silver Lake Campground right across the street and directly on the lake!  We walked the campground and were impressed with the very wide and private campsites and beautiful lake and mountain views (and a bargain at only $27/night!).  There are water spigots here, but no Dump station.  We knew we really wanted to stay here the following summer, but needed to figure out a way to extend our Grey tank limitation.  We were told the closest public dump station to this area is more than 20 minute’s drive away.

We considered an outdoor shower since our Grey tank is mostly filled by shower water, but ruled that out because of a few reasons.  An outdoor shower is technically considered Grey water dumping and, in turn, may not be permitted (depending on the campground and judgment of the camp host).  If an outdoor shower is permitted, it is likely that all the runoff water generated will need to be contained and disposed of properly (which could be a challenge).  And, there are potential privacy and safety issues since the shower is outside with no security.  Lastly, depending on the weather and environment, the outdoor shower may not be very comfortable.  With all the potential issues of an outdoor shower, we decided it wasn’t a good solution to our Grey water limitation.

A friend of mine showed me his 38 gallon portable grey water tank on wheels that he takes on his RV trips.  With water weighing roughly 8.3 lbs. per gallon, this portable tank can weigh over 315 lbs.!!!  He says it’s nearly impossible to move by bike when full, so he only takes it on trips when he knows he can move it with his vehicle to Dump.  We then looked at smaller portable storage tanks because they are more manageable.  Specifically, the Barker 5 Gallon Tote seemed to be a good option.  It’s only 5 gallons, so weight when full doesn’t exceed much more than 40 lbs.  It’s also small and can be easily transferred by a dolly or car to a Dump station.  The thing I didn’t like about it is that is a bit pricey (almost $50 per tank) and I would need 4 of them to give me the desired 20 gallons storage (so we could almost double our current 21 gallon Grey tank capacity).  Additionally, it isn’t transparent, and I wanted to be able to see the tank filling up so I know when it’s time to close the Grey water dump valve to ready the next tank for filling.

After a lot of thought and searching, I found what I believe is the Holy Grail of Portable Grey Water Tank solutions!  It’s actually a combination of individual items where the whole makes up more than the sum of its parts!  The first critical item to the system is the 5 gallon tank.  I found a perfect one online at Uline that is designed for chemical storage (so it’s beefy) and is also translucent (so the Grey water is visible in the tank as its being filled).  At the time of this writing, if you buy 3 jugs or more they are only $10.90 each!!!  Uline also sells separately a replacement top ($2.10) that has a threaded opening which allows a garden hose to be attached —  a hole just needs to be drilled in it for water to pass.  The next necessary component is a bayonet adapter so they the garden hose may attach directly to the Grey tank on the trailer.  Lastly, a small garden hose (like this one) makes the entire kit small and very transportable.  So, for about $60 in parts, this entire 20 gallon system can easily be assembled and put together with little effort (just a single hole needs to be drilled in the replacement cap used for attaching the garden hose to the 5 gallon tank).

Everything seemed perfect on paper, but until we tested the system, we didn’t really know if we had found the Holy Grail of Portable Grey Water Tanks.  An 8-night trip from our home in Carlsbad, California to Pinnacles National Park in California’s Central Valley and then down the coast to Big Sur, Pismo Beach and Santa Barbara provided the perfect proving grounds for this new and untested portable Grey Water Tank holding system.  Although Pinnacles National Park has a central Dump station, it is far away from Site #69 (the site where we spent a couple of nights).  This was a good opportunity for our first test.  When the Grey water tank was about 50% full on the 2nd day, I hooked up the system.  Note:  I leave both the Valterra cap and water jug cap attached to the short hose, so it’s just a matter of attaching the Valterra cap end to the Scamp’s Grey water pipe (remove existing cover) and the jug cap to the water jug.  After both ends are attached, the Grey water tank valve is opened to release the Grey water.  On the first attempt, the water flowed quickly for a few seconds and then stopped.  I couldn’t open the small air release cap on the jug because it is on the opposite side (close to the ground) to the main jug cap and water would pour out.  The secret is to slightly open the main cap just enough to release air pressure (I could hear a slight breath of air when I did this).  This method works and air pressure is released while water does not escape. The jug fills up fairly quickly.  When it looks like the jug is almost full with water near the top, close the Grey water valve on the trailer, unscrew the cap on the jug, and then screw the cap onto the next empty jug (and repeat until all 4 jugs are full).  Cap the full jugs using the supplied standard cap so no grey water leaks while transporting the jugs to the Dump.  To dump these jugs, just open the main cap and also remove the air release cap, and then pour the Grey water directly into the open Dump hole.  The water comes out quickly and easily.

We had a chance to test the system again at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.  Similar to Pinnacles National Park, Pfeiffer Big Sur SP Campground has a central Dump station, but it was far away from the site we stayed at.  It would have been very inconvenient to have to tow the Scamp to the central Dump in the middle of our 3-night stay.  Instead, we put the Holy Grail system to use and it performed wonderfully (just like it did at Pinnacles).  This enabled us to stay set up and Dump at the central Dump on the way out of the park.  The 5 gallon jugs were very manageable for me to lift and pour into the open Dump hole and the 4 containers fit in our SUV tow vehicle really well.

In conclusion, this system does appear to be the Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution!  It is highly portable (limiting jug weight to around 40 lbs.) / not too big, relatively inexpensive, simple to set up, jugs are transparent, easy to use, and works really well.  For a trailer like the Scamp, four 5 gallon jugs will almost double the off grid capability of the Grey tank.  And, it certainly is nice not having to limit campground visits to only 2 – 3 days due to Grey water tank size.  For the Scamp’s 21 gallon Grey tank, this system effectively doubles time between dumps from 2 – 3 days to 4 – 6 days (depending on water use).  And, it’s also really great not having to pack everything up and drive to a central Dump in the middle of a trip and then have to drive back to the campsite to set up the trailer all over again (which we had to do in the middle of a 3-night stay at D.L. Bliss State Park at Lake Tahoe).  We have a three night trip to Joshua Tree National Park next month and now we can rest easy knowing we will not have to break camp or stop using water for the time we are at the park!  Finding the Holy Grail is life-changing and you will be transformed too if you set up this system!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Take a Page from Star Trek and Log Your Travels!

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Take a Page from Star Trek and Log Your Travels!

One of the best ideas we had when we first started travelling with our 2020 Scamp 13’ small travel trailer was to keep a log book of our travels.  We purchased a small brown leather bound journal with blank lined pages so we could document each of our trips in as much detail possible.  On the first page of our log book we wrote the Year and Name / Model number of our small travel trailer and stapled the business card of the Scamp salesperson who helped us with our purchase.  We keep the log book in our Scamp 13’ so we can make daily entries during our trips.  This log not only serves as a way to remember our past trips but also to provide helpful information for future trips.  Note:  Star Trek captains use spoken log entries to document notable events which happen during their adventures; we still use written logs.

Here are some of the things we like to document on each trip:

  1. Dates of trip
  2. Location of each destination (with park name)
  3. Weather
  4. Daily price of campsite
  5. Ease of campsite access (e.g. bridge access, unpaved road, narrow site, etc.)
  6. Services offered (e.g. electric, water, sewer, cable, wifi….)
  7. Solar capability (e.g. sunny / shady)
  8. Cellular phone signal quality (and good locations for stronger signals)
  9. Number of HD TV stations we were able to access
  10. Locations of nearby gas stations / stores / restaurants, etc. we utilized
  11. Locations / Prices of Dump Stations we used
  12. Visitor center information (e.g. what’s available there, like supplies, t-shirts, etc.)
  13. Daily levels of our fresh, grey, and black tanks (and voltage levels when dry camping)
  14. Our top picks of the best campsite #s for future trips
  15. Fun things we did daily, including trail hike names
  16. Meals we prepared
  17. Friendliness of the camp hosts / park staff
  18. Any campground annoyances (e.g. loud campsite, campsites too close together, bugs, …..)
  19. Trip highlights (e.g. starry nights, hiking trails….)
  20. Any issues we had with our Scamp / accessories and the fixes we used
  21. Drive time between locations
  22. New friends’ names and contact information
  23. Tips for future trips (e.g. things we wished we had packed).

Making notes in your travel log for each trip can be extremely helpful in so many ways.  First, if you ever decide you want to revisit a spot, you will be your own guide to the best campsites at each location.  We make it a point to walk through each campground with our travel journal in hand and note our favorite spots just in case we ever want to return.  For example, we stayed in the Mammoth Lakes area in the High Sierra this past summer at some fantastic public campgrounds and noted all the great campsite #s we thought we would enjoy parking our Scamp in for future summer trips!    Additional details, like pricing, ease of campsite access, and any campground annoyances are also great to remember.

Another very helpful bit of information your travel log can provide concerns hookups and campground facilities.  Specifically, many State campgrounds list no hookups but often have water spigots scattered throughout the campground as well as a centralized dump station.  Knowing this can make a big difference in making a campground decision.  For example, we can usually generate all the power we need for our Scamp 13’ with the solar panel briefcase we bring on trips.  So, if we know we can get all the water we need at campground water spigots, and dump whenever we want at a centralized dump station (or a dump station close by), then what would otherwise be seen as a very limited stay over with no hookups could actually be an inviting location for a longer stay.  For example, we had a wonderful stay at Van Damme State Park in Mendocino County, California (about a 3 hour drive north of San Francisco) where there are no hookups, but water spigots are placed throughout the campground and a $10 Dump station is located at the entrance of the park.  So, all our utility needs were still taken care of quite well.  We also made note in our travel log that there is a gas station very close to the entrance of Van Damme State Park (as these are few and far between in this area).

Connectivity is another good thing to note in the travel log.  Information on cellular phone strength (for both voice and data) as well as WiFi availability at the campground or close by can be very helpful.  We like to be connected just in case there is an emergency or urgent news from family or friends.  And, it’s nice to check email and news when staying for more than a day or two.  In the case of Van Damme State Park, there was no good cellular phone connectivity at the park, but we found a good signal just up the road near the entrance of a private RV park (which we used every morning).  If you have an HD antenna and TV inside your small travel trailer, it’s also helpful to know if there are many watchable channels.  If not, you might consider downloading some movies / shows onto your phone and playing them on your TV (see How To Watch Movies in the Wild).  This is all great information to have for future trips.

We’ve found keeping a daily log of our tank status (fresh, grey, and black) as well as our voltage to be useful.  This will likely only be possible if you have onboard tank monitors and a voltage meter.  Knowing this information allows us to understand how long we can go between resupply / dumping and plan out our trips so we stay at hookup / dump locations when appropriate.  For example, after a year of recording these readings, we now know our average limits (for 2 people) are about 1 – 2 days to deplete our Fresh tank (with 2 short showers per day),  2-3 days until our Grey tank is full, and about a week before our Black tank is full.  As long as we have sun every few days, our electricity can pretty much last indefinitely if we use our solar panel briefcase.   Since many public campsites have water spigots, our Grey tank tends to be the most limiting factor on most trips — we usually can go 2 – 3 days before needing to dump the Grey tank.  In turn, our trips often plan for stays on the third night at a location with full hookups or a nearby dump.

There is also a lot of other useful information that can be gained from the list above and applied to future trips.  Some other significant items to note in the travel log are your meals (e.g. what you prepared and what worked well) to help meal planning for future trips, trip highlights (ideas for future trips), any type of trailer issues (to help plan and prevent these going forward), and tips for future trips (to make future trips even better!).  If logging your travels is starting to sound too time-consuming, we essentially do most of it while eating breakfast each day as an afterthought, so don’t sweat it and make it a breakfast ritual.  In the end, travel logging provides not only a good record to remember one’s adventures but also a tremendous resource for future travels!  So, we recommend you take a page from the Star Trek Captain’s Log, and log your travels!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to Consistently and Easily Hook Up your Hitch Ball

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How to Consistently and Easily Hook Up your Hitch Ball

One of the trickiest procedures for new small travel trailer owners is backing up and lining up the hitch ball so the hitch coupler will drop securely on top of it.  Getting the ball (on your tow vehicle) properly aligned with your trailer coupler takes some practice, but gets easier with experience.  One trick I like is taping a ribbon (about 6 inches long) on the travel trailer’s tow coupler so the ribbon hangs straight down (I attached the ribbon with Gorilla Tape so it stays for a while!).  I use my SUV’s rear camera (set to Tow Bar line) and slowly and carefully back up, keeping my SUV aimed at the ribbon.  If your tow vehicle doesn’t have a rear camera, I recommend purchasing one aftermarket.  It’s important that the tow vehicle is aligned so it’s on the same line to the trailer to ensure the hitch ball will fit properly when the hitch coupler is lowered (e.g. no angles between tow vehicle and trailer).  Also, make sure the coupler is raised high enough so the hitch ball doesn’t hit it when you back up under it.  Once I get fairly close to the hitch coupler, I very slowly inch my way back until the ball on the SUV hitch brushes up against the ribbon and then a smidge beyond.  At this point, the tow coupler is right over the ball.  Make sure to take your time and don’t be concerned if it initially takes a number of times to get it right.

If your ball is directly below the hitch coupler and your tow vehicle is aligned with the trailer (e.g. no angles between vehicle and trailer), you can now drop (hand crank or electric power jack) the coupler onto the ball and it should sit so that none or barely any of the bottom of the ball will be visible if looking at it from the side.  If the coupler doesn’t go all the way down and it seems the lower portion of the ball is visible, it’s likely that the alignment wasn’t quite right.  In this case, it will also not be possible to secure the hitch latch into the locked position.  If this happens, raise the trailer coupler, pull away, line up your tow vehicle, and try again.  Never try to force the coupler to lock.  It does take some force to latch the coupler down, but not an excessive amount.  I had one experience, when we were boondocking on a farm in Bakersfield, where everything appeared nicely lined up but the hitch latch wouldn’t close.  The ground was dirt and very uneven and I suspected the coupler just wasn’t seating properly on the ball, so I pulled away and lined up again and everything worked smoothly.  I was glad I didn’t try to force the coupling.

After locking, I recommend pulling up on the travel trailer coupler a couple times to watch the tow vehicle rear end go up and down to make sure the ball is really securely locked into place in the coupler (again, none or barely any of the bottom of the ball will be visible if looking at it from the side).  In addition, I recommend using a coupler lock, not only as a theft security device, but also to help prevent the coupler latch from popping open while driving.  After securing the coupler latch, it’s imperative to attach your safety chains and plug in your trailer to the tow vehicle so your trailer’s lights and emergency brakes are communicating with the tow vehicle (and check that the trailer lights are working before leaving).

Securing the trailer coupler onto the hitch ball is one of the most important things you can do to ensure a safe towing experience with your small travel trailer.  With practice and following these tips, securing your trailer to your tow vehicle should become a successful, easy, and stress-free experience.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

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Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

One key consideration when selecting a small travel trailer is bed configuration.  Will the bed be the right size for two people?  Can I leave the bed down all the time and still use the kitchen table?  How easy is it to convert the bed into the dinette in the morning and back again into the bed in the evening?  These questions are often key variables when considering choices of small travel trailers.

Health experts typically recommend between 7 and 9 hours of sleep per night for adults.  So, if a person usually sleeps about 8 hours per night, they spend 1/3 of each day sleeping!  That’s a lot of time!  In turn, it’s really important to seriously consider sleep when deciding on a trailer brand and configuration.  With the smallest travel trailers (around 13’ in length), there usually is a compromise in order to get both a nice sized bed and dinette.  This compromise is the necessity to convert the bed to the dinette every morning (and back to the bed in the evening).  This is the case for our Scamp 13’, which has a very roomy full-sized bed for two people (54” wide x 76” long) and, after conversion, a generously roomy kitchen table for four people.  For many, the perceived time and effort it takes to make this daily conversion is a deal breaker.  Often, the solution for those not wanting to undertake these daily conversions twice a day is to buy a larger trailer with a bed which can be left down all the time.  For example, the Scamp 16’ allows for a side two-person dinette (offering the possibility for the bed to always be left down).  In this case, no daily conversion is necessary (however, if the bed is left down, the usable dinette table in the Scamp 16’ is much smaller than that in the Scamp 13’).

After deciding on a Scamp small travel trailer (see our article on Ordering our 2020 Scamp), we needed to choose between the 13’ and 16’ models.  While both allow for the low cost $10 every 5 years California PTI registration (available for small trailers 16’ or less), the Scamp 13’ fits in our garage better, is a bit lighter (up to 800 lbs lighter than the Scamp 16″ Standard according to Scamp!), and has the wider 54” bed option not available on the Scamp 16’ Standard.  We didn’t think sleeping on a 43” wide bed would be as comfortable for two people.  So, with that, our decision was made and we were committed to undertaking the twice a day dinette-bed conversion when travelling in our Scamp 13’.  We just hoped it was not going to be a real pain and get to be too much after a while.

In the end, undertaking the daily dinette-bed conversion was just not that big a deal.  Perhaps it’s because we only travel every month or so (up to 10 days at a time) and aren’t living in our Scamp 13’ full time.  However, it seems not much different than making our bed every day at home.  The actual conversion of flipping up the table arm, lowering the table into the bed position, and sliding the cushions over the tables is ridiculously easy (and similar for the reverse procedure).  Laying out the memory foam mattress topper and sleeping bag takes a little more time.  But, overall, the entire process is very doable and we are happy we chose the Scamp 13’.  If we were living in the Scamp full time, then it probably would be nice to have the bed down all the time.  If I were a solo traveler, I would likely order the Scamp 13’ with bigger 54” bed and implement a table modification to allow for a hybrid bed-table setup – so the bed can always be left down and still allow for a table (similar to the great approach presented in this discussion here).

In order to see how much time it actually takes one person to make the dinette-bed conversion, we made the above video and timed it.  In both cases of conversion (dinette to bed and bed to dinette), the time it took one person is less than three minutes.  So, if spending 6 minutes or less per day on making / unmaking your bed is reasonable and you don’t mind getting a little bit of exercise, choosing a smaller trailer (such as the Scamp 13’) could actually end up giving you more room for your dinette and bed than if you chose a slightly larger model trailer with a dedicated bed.  Additionally, you might also find you are getting into more campgrounds as a result of your smaller size (secret)!

Update:
We are still going strong in our 2020 Scamp 13′ after over four years (35 trips, 125 locations, and 226 nights) and are happy with choosing this model despite the bed conversion.  We stopped using a bed topper as the softer foam cushions make sleeping much more comfortable than the much firmer factory ones.  We also made the daily bed conversion easier by replacing the particle board on the dinette table with lightweight plywood.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Using a Trailer Dolly to move your Trailer without a Tow Vehicle!

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Using a Trailer Dolly to move your Trailer without a Tow Vehicle!

A trailer dolly is a great product for moving small trailers (less than 3000 pounds and tongue weight less than 600 pounds) around on flat level surfaces if one has a moderate level of physical strength or help from other people.

Just before taking delivery of our 13’ Scamp travel trailer, we ordered an Aquacart trailer dolly which was advertised as being able to easily move trailers.  I had envisioned I could use this dolly to pull our 13’ Scamp travel trailer up our driveway and then perfectly position it in our garage.

The Aquacart is extremely well made – 2” welded aircraft quality aluminum with big 13” wheelbarrow tires (and weighs 25 pounds).  Indeed, this dolly is very sturdy.  It feels like it was over engineered to carry large loads.  It seems to be the Rolls Royce of trailer dollies.  It’s big though, and unless you have an SUV with fold down seats or a truck, it may be difficult to take on trips.  The wheels, however, can be removed as they have clips.  We did take it on our first trip and used it to pull our Scamp travel trailer into our campsite (since we had no experience backing up our travel trailer).  Since our first trip though, we haven’t taken the dolly on trips because we are now better at backing up our Scamp, it mostly hasn’t been necessary because most spots are easy to back into (although we could have used it getting into my cousin’s driveway on a narrow street), and the Aquacart takes up some space in our SUV.

When our 13’ Scamp travel trailer was delivered on the street in front of our house last November, we found out that unless the surface is flat and level it can take a lot of muscle to move around a 1500 – 2000 pound travel trailer!  It took three people to pull the Scamp up our driveway!  In retrospect, I don’t think I would do that again because it could potentially be dangerous if someone lost their grip and the trailer couldn’t be stopped from rolling.  A runaway trailer is not a good thing!

Aquacart recommends keeping the dolly’s tires well inflated to make it easier to move trailers around.  The dolly comes with a 1-7/8” universal ball which we easily swapped out for a 2” ball which is compatible with our Scamp travel trailer hitch.

We now use the Aquacart trailer dolly regularly to move our Scamp around in our garage to place it in perfect position after we back the Scamp into the garage.  It’s much easier to back the Scamp in the general area in the garage and use the dolly to position it than to try to back it just perfectly into its spot.  We’ve tried the latter approach and it can be very time consuming.  We highly recommend the Aquacart dolly for this purpose and all other jobs when moving around a small travel trailer on flat level surfaces.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

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