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Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

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Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

Small travel trailers aren’t too complex, but one important system you should know something about is the electrical system and how it works.  The most important reason for this is so that you always have the power you need to at least run the most essential functions necessary to keep your trailer operating (e.g. LED lights, water pumps, heater, and perhaps an electric tongue jack).  Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC).  Your trailer’s battery is about 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to never let your trailer’s battery go below 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity).  A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor your trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install one when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs them on its 2021 models).

A good way of explaining how electricity works in your small travel trailer is by using the water/hose analogy.  Your trailer’s battery can be thought of as a water pump; the charge of your battery is water, voltage is the water pressure pushing the water through the hose (trailer’s electrical cables), the current being the flow of the water (measured in Amps), and power is the total amount of water flowing in a given time (measured in watts).  Most campgrounds offer 110V AC 30 amp outlets (typically the amperage used in small travel trailer electrical systems) and sometimes 110V AC 50 amp outlets (used for large RVs – for running two or more high-powered devices simultaneously like an electric water heater and AC).  The higher number of amps means more power can be supplied to your trailer at any given time.  Campgrounds may also offer 15/20 amp outlets at 110V AC (like the ones typically found at home).  These outlets provide less power capacity than 30 / 50 amp outlets (meaning you may not be able to run your AC and electric water heater at the same time without tripping the circuit breaker) and generally should only be used as a last resort if a 30 amp hookup is not available for your small travel trailer (or if you are at a home using a 110V Male to 30A Female adapter).    It’s also a good idea to have an auxiliary battery power bank, like a Jackery 500, for use when you are off grid and want to preserve your trailer’s 12V battery power for essential devices.

Your small travel trailer will likely have a converter which converts 110 volt power coming in from your campground hookup outlet into 12 Volts.  This enables all the 12 volt devices in your small travel trailer to work off 110V, like your LED lights, pumps, etc.  When hooked up, you will also be able to use the 110V outlets inside your small travel trailer to power other plug-in devices you bring along with you on your trip (being careful not to exceed the circuit limits in your trailer – often 15 or 20 amp fuses / circuit breakers).  However, if your small travel trailer has 110V outlets, they are unlikely to work without hookups because most small trailers don’t have inverters (allows your 12V battery to power 110 volt outlets).  Common devices running off electricity inside your small travel trailer are LED lights, a fresh water pump that pressurizes your water system and allows you to use your fresh water tank (city water provided by a hose hookup does not require a pump since it in itself provides continuous water pressure), a water pump under the shower floor to keep the shower water draining into the grey tank and preventing the shower floor from flooding, the bathroom fan, the main overhead fan, TV, the electric furnace blower fan which blows the hot air typically produced by the propane heater, and other electric ignition systems used for lighting gas powered devices like the water heater, and potentially others.

One very important item that should be with your small travel trailer at all times is a 110V Male to 30A Female dogbone adapter.  This will allow you to connect your trailer’s 30A power cord into a regular household 110V outlet.  It’s essential when you want to hook up at a house or anywhere there is just a regular 110V outlet.  Since we store our Scamp travel trailer in our garage, we constantly use the adapter to keep our battery charged and also run the Scamp lights and other appliances when necessary.  Additionally, we often use the adapter so we can power our Scamp’s refrigerator the day before we leave on a trip so we can put our groceries in early [since our Scamp has 3 modes for running the fridge – AC, 12V (when driving), and Propane (when no electricity is available at the campground)].  Lastly, it’s very common for us to stop at a relative’s house during our trips and we use the adapter for power when we driveway camp.

A large external independent battery power bank can power many of your essential devices while preserving your travel trailer’s battery power for your super essential appliances like lights, fans, and pumps.  We purchased the Jackery 500 which has 518Wh of power (which can power a lot of devices for a long time).  To calculate how long the Jackery 500 (which is rated at 518 Wh) will run devices, simply divide the device’s total energy in the powerbank (518W) by the appliance’s energy draw (measured in Watts).  For example, our 12V TV draws 28W, so it should run about 18.5 hours (518Wh/28W).  We recently used our 12V TV powered by the Jackery on a trip from San Diego to Oregon and watched two hour movies each night for five nights and there was still about 50% charge left on the Jackery, confirming this calculation.  When boondocking (no power hookups), use your battery power bank to run your TV, charge your batteries (phone, camera, drone, etc.) and other portable battery powered devices.  This will ensure your small travel trailer batteries are completely dedicated to your essential devices.  The Jackery 500  has a 12V cigarette socket, USB ports, and even a 110V outlet.  It can even be used to run a portable air compressor.  You can charge it in your car while driving between camping locations, with 110V power outlets at campsites, and also with a solar panel.

Just because your small travel trailer is connected up to a 30A hookup, doesn’t mean all that current can flow through to your devices.  Your small travel trailer has fuses for each circuit to protect devices within your trailer.  Many of these circuits are allocated only 15 or 20 amps to protect the devices on the circuit and the 15/20 amp fuses protecting these circuits will blow if too many lights and appliances draw power from the circuit.  If this happens, the metal ribbon inside the fuse will melt and the circuit will go dead (meaning all the devices on the circuit will be rendered temporarily useless until the fuse if replaced).  This is designed to protect your appliances from getting too much power and, in turn, damaged.  So, it’s important you don’t plug anything in which may place too much demand on your small travel trailer’s electrical system (e.g. hairdryer).  So, when adding new 110V plug-in devices to your trailer, check the device’s power requirements (divide the device’s Watts / 110 volts = # of amps).  For example, if you want to use a small electric ceramic space heater, calculate the device’s amps and make sure it will draw less than the circuit can handle (let’s assume 15 amps) when also considering all other appliances on the circuit.  Each fuse in your small travel trailer should be labeled so you know what circuit it represents.  In this case, if there are already devices which are running at 6 amps on the circuit you want to use (you would have to figure out and calculate each device’s power requirements on that circuit if you want to be extra precise), then the ceramic space heater should use no more than 9 amps since 6 amps + 9 amps = 15 amps (and preferably less to be conservative).  If more than 15 amps is drawn, then the fuse will blow.  We just purchased a small electric space heater for our Scamp and calculated its current draws at medium (600W / 110v = 5.5 amps) and high heat settings (1200W / 110v = 10.9 amps).  We haven’t calculated all the devices’ power requirements on each circuit, but are comfortable we should be ok using the heater on the medium setting since the draw is only 5.5 amps (we wouldn’t risk using the high heat setting as just this heater alone is getting close to 15 amps and there could be other devices on the circuit we plug the heater into).  Alternatively, we could plug the heater straight into our Jackery 500 and run it on medium heat setting for about 50 minutes (518Wh/600W) or on the high heat setting for approximately 25 minutes (518Wh/1200W).  As you can see from this example, the ceramic heater draws too much power to run it for hours off a small portable auxiliary battery power bank.  In turn, it would be best to run this heater off of hookups at the campground or using the trailer’s propane powered furnace when off grid.

Some great electrical accessories to have in your small travel trailer are a good surge protector, a big box of fuses (in case you blow one), an electrical tester, and a solar panel.

  1. Good surge protector: It is common to hear stories about bad wiring at campgrounds.  And, plugging your travel trailer directly into a bad circuit or getting a power surge could cause damage to your trailer’s electrical system and appliances.  To avoid the risk, it’s best to use a good surge protector every time you plug in your trailer.  We have used the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X for almost a year and have had a really good experience with it.  The scrolling digital display shows if there are any errors with the campground wiring and provides peace of mind that the power is clean.  It has a weather shield and a secure locking bracket to prevent theft.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

  1. Big box of auto fuses: It would be extremely annoying if an entire trip was ruined because no lights and other devices worked as a result of a blown eight cent fuse!  We purchased this 120 fuse set on Amazon (make sure to check your small travel trailer accepts standard-sized auto fuses) and we store it under one of our kitchen dinette benches in our Scamp.  Alternatively, there are also super cool GLOW fuses that glow when they are blown (but expect to pay more for these)!

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CLICK HERE TO BUY THE GLOW FUSES (50 pack)!

CLICK HERE TO BUY THE GLOW FUSES (10 pack)

  1. Electrical Tester: a digital multimeter is a great tool to check electrical continuity (such as seeing if a fuse is blown it’s not visible) or checking if power is coming out of the solar panel cables.

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  1. Solar Panel: a 100W solar panel is a great option to help recharge your small travel trailer batteries daily when camping without hookups.  We’ve found our solar panel can maintain our Scamp’s battery at 12.5V (a good place) for days on end as long as the sun shines. The solar panel may also be used to recharge your independent power bank.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. I’m not an electrician or electrical engineer, so I just write about the basics above based on our experiences with our Scamp 13’ travel trailer.  Please consult a professional if you need expert help.

Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

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Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

One key consideration when selecting a small travel trailer is bed configuration.  Will the bed be the right size for two people?  Can I leave the bed down all the time and still use the kitchen table?  How easy is it to convert the bed into the dinette in the morning and back again into the bed in the evening?  These questions are often key variables when considering choices of small travel trailers.

Health experts typically recommend between 7 and 9 hours of sleep per night for adults.  So, if a person usually sleeps about 8 hours per night, they spend 1/3 of each day sleeping!  That’s a lot of time!  In turn, it’s really important to seriously consider sleep when deciding on a trailer brand and configuration.  With the smallest travel trailers (around 13’ in length), there usually is a compromise in order to get both a nice sized bed and dinette.  This compromise is the necessity to convert the bed to the dinette every morning (and back to the bed in the evening).  This is the case for our Scamp 13’, which has a very roomy full-sized bed for two people (54” wide x 76” long) and, after conversion, a generously roomy kitchen table for four people.  For many, the perceived time and effort it takes to make this daily conversion is a deal breaker.  Often, the solution for those not wanting to undertake these daily conversions twice a day is to buy a larger trailer with a bed which can be left down all the time.  For example, the Scamp 16’ allows for a side two-person dinette (offering the possibility for the bed to always be left down).  In this case, no daily conversion is necessary (however, if the bed is left down, the usable dinette table in the Scamp 16’ is much smaller than that in the Scamp 13’).

After deciding on a Scamp small travel trailer (see our article on Ordering our 2020 Scamp), we needed to choose between the 13’ and 16’ models.  While both allow for the low cost $10 every 5 years California PTI registration (available for small trailers 16’ or less), the Scamp 13’ fits in our garage better, is a bit lighter (up to 800 lbs lighter than the Scamp 16″ Standard according to Scamp!), and has the wider 54” bed option not available on the Scamp 16’ Standard.  We didn’t think sleeping on a 43” wide bed would be as comfortable for two people.  So, with that, our decision was made and we were committed to undertaking the twice a day dinette-bed conversion when travelling in our Scamp 13’.  We just hoped it was not going to be a real pain and get to be too much after a while.

In the end, undertaking the daily dinette-bed conversion was just not that big a deal.  Perhaps it’s because we only travel every month or so (up to 10 days at a time) and aren’t living in our Scamp 13’ full time.  However, it seems not much different than making our bed every day at home.  The actual conversion of flipping up the table arm, lowering the table into the bed position, and sliding the cushions over the tables is ridiculously easy (and similar for the reverse procedure).  Laying out the memory foam mattress topper and sleeping bag takes a little more time.  But, overall, the entire process is very doable and we are happy we chose the Scamp 13’.  If we were living in the Scamp full time, then it probably would be nice to have the bed down all the time.  If I were a solo traveler, I would likely order the Scamp 13’ with bigger 54” bed and implement a table modification to allow for a hybrid bed-table setup – so the bed can always be left down and still allow for a table (similar to the great approach presented in this discussion here).

In order to see how much time it actually takes one person to make the dinette-bed conversion, we made the above video and timed it.  In both cases of conversion (dinette to bed and bed to dinette), the time it took one person is less than three minutes.  So, if spending 6 minutes or less per day on making / unmaking your bed is reasonable and you don’t mind getting a little bit of exercise, choosing a smaller trailer (such as the Scamp 13’) could actually end up giving you more room for your dinette and bed than if you chose a slightly larger model trailer with a dedicated bed.  Additionally, you might also find you are getting into more campgrounds as a result of your smaller size (secret)!

Update:
We are still going strong in our 2020 Scamp 13′ after over four years (35 trips, 125 locations, and 226 nights) and are happy with choosing this model despite the bed conversion.  We stopped using a bed topper as the softer foam cushions make sleeping much more comfortable than the much firmer factory ones.  We also made the daily bed conversion easier by replacing the particle board on the dinette table with lightweight plywood.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

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How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

I had no absolutely no experience towing a small travel trailer when our Scamp 13’ was dropped off at our home by the factory delivery driver.  After a quick review of some of the Scamp’s features and signing the paperwork (and handing over a check), the driver left and the Scamp was now in our garage ready to be taken on adventures.

I really liked the idea of all the possible trips we could take by having a small travel trailer and the probable fun we would have.  Small travel trailers are a golden ticket into places most cannot spend the night (at least not comfortably), like State and National Parks.  In the past, we would stay at a hotel if we wanted to visit scenic outdoor locations.  And, hotels at these types of places are typically not cheap!  In contrast, most nightly campground rates at State and National Parks are generally very reasonable (often less than $40 / night).  For example, a full hookup spot (meaning electricity, water, and sewer are provided at your campsite) at Furnace Creek Campground in Death Valley National Park is currently only $36 / night.  In comparison, a room at the Inn At Death Valley starts at around $350 / night in January.  In addition, you can prepare all your meals in your small travel trailer, but would likely have a much higher meal cost at the hotel.

Given all the positives, we decided we would just have to learn how to tow the small travel trailer and hoped it wouldn’t be that difficult.  The first challenge came up pretty soon after delivery.  In order to register the trailer, we needed to tow it to the local AAA as an in-person inspection is required!  With no prior experience, and after a bit of research, we hooked up our Scamp and drove it to AAA.  It actually was a very easy first drive experience.  The Scamp just follows the tow vehicle and, unless you make sharp turns, change lanes too fast, or go over bumps too quickly, it really isn’t a big deal to tow.  It is important to allow for wide turns so the trailer following you can clear whatever you are turning around.  The only stress initially was changing lanes, but even that has now become as easy as driving without the Scamp attached.  You just have to take it slowly and make extra sure the lane is clear before you change lanes.

Advanced research and preparation seem to be the keys for first time towing success.  Just like studying for a test, if you prepare in advance you will stand a higher chance for a positive outcome.  First, it’s important you select the right tow vehicle before you buy your small travel trailer.  Although I did chat with someone who told me he tows his Scamp 13’ travel trailer with a Toyota Prius, I wouldn’t recommend that for anyone.  Instead, choose a vehicle that is rated to tow (meaning the transmission and brakes, etc. were designed for towing) and can easily handle the weight of your trailer as well as the hitch (tongue) weight your small travel trailer puts on your tow vehicle’s hitch ball (to be conservative, having at least 30% more vehicle capacity than the weight and tongue weight of the trailer may be a good starting point).  In most cases, a decently powered SUV will do the job for towing a small travel trailer (but check the specs on your trailer and desired tow vehicle).   In our case, we chose the Volvo XC40 with the T5 AWD engine and factory installed tow package (248 hp, tow rating = 3,500 lbs if trailer has brakes / tongue weight rating = 350 lbs).  Scamp lists the approximate weight of the standard 13’ model between 1200 and 1500 lbs. and the tongue weight at 100 lbs.  So, in this case, the Volvo XC40 is easily rated to tow the Scamp.  The extra tow and tongue capacity allows for potentially higher weights due to carrying gear in the Scamp as well as provides power for steep mountain passes.  The tow vehicle should be ordered with a factory tow package if available and the small travel trailer should be ordered with electronic brakes.

We have found the Volvo XC40 to be an exceptional tow vehicle in many ways.  First, since it’s only a four cylinder turbo, it gets relatively good gas mileage — we routinely get 20MPG when towing.  It also feels incredibly stable to drive and the weight of our Scamp 13’ is not noticeable (even going up steep grades).  And, since it is all wheel drive (AWD), it always feels sure footed even on the bumpy sloped dirt surfaces one is likely to encounter at some campgrounds.  We picked up the vehicle in Sweden through Volvo’s Oversees Delivery Program (which is a fantastic experience in itself).  This allowed us to drive the car around Sweden for a couple of weeks and get to know the vehicle and the country.

Once you have your very capable tow vehicle, it is time to order a capable hitch to plug into your vehicle’s hitch receptacle.  We purchased this heavy duty hitch (2 x 2” shank with 2” ball) which is rated to tow 7,500lbs gross trailer weight and 750lbs tongue weight!  So, this hitch can easily accommodate a 13’ Scamp weighing 1,500lbs with a 100lb tongue weight!  It has a 2” drop, but can also be flipped to give a ¾” rise (note: it’s best to go to an automotive shop that uses pneumatic tools to properly torque the nut if it’s flipped).  We started with the 2” drop, but found that the Scamp 13’ was not level with our tow vehicle (slight drop in center, see images) which resulted in the tongue jack plate sometimes scraping driveways and noisy towing (hitch ball rattling).  Once we flipped the hitch, the trailer became level with our tow vehicle resulting in no more scraping and a smoother quieter towing experience!

Having both a capable tow vehicle and hitch set up will mean that you are much less likely to encounter towing problems on the road.  Of course, it’s always important to plug in your trailer to the tow vehicle so your trailer’s lights and emergency brakes are communicating with the tow vehicle (and check the trailer lights before leaving).  In addition, it’s imperative that safety chains be used whenever towing (see images).  Getting the ball on your tow vehicle properly aligned with your trailer coupler takes some practice, but gets easier with experience.  I taped a ribbon on the tow coupler so it hangs straight down – this lets me see the ball hit the ribbon, which indicates just an inch or so more and the tow coupler is right over the ball.  The step of locking the coupler onto the ball is critical.  After locking, I recommend pulling up on the travel trailer coupler a couple times to watch the tow vehicle rear end go up and down to make sure the ball is really securely locked into place in the coupler (none or barely any of the bottom of the ball should be visible if looking at it from the side).  In addition, I recommend using a coupler lock, not only as a theft security device, but also to help prevent the coupler latch from popping open while driving.  I also like to use a hitch lock to securely hold the hitch in place and prevent someone from walking off with it.

The hardest thing about towing a small travel trailer isn’t the towing.  I’ve found the biggest challenge is backing up the small travel trailer so that it goes where you want it to.  In this regard, it’s always good to have a helper if available so they can stand outside the vehicle and direct you (either with walkie talkies, cell phones, or shouting).  Our Scamp 13’ is very responsive when backing up and it takes practice getting comfortable to what type of wheel movements are required to control the trailer.  One trick that really helps when backing up is to hold the steering wheel at the bottom and then turn it in the direction you want the trailer to travel.  Don’t let the trailer go anywhere close to a 90 degree position with the tow vehicle when backing up as this can cause damage.  It’s always better to take your time and straighten out as many times as you need to get your approach angle right.  After a few trips, you will find backing up to be pretty easy.  Note:  I no longer use our trailer dolly in our garage because I’m used to backing our Scamp into the exact position I want in tight spaces (and you will be too after some experience).

In summary, I’m really glad we decided to purchase the Scamp 13’ even though we lacked towing experience and had concerns about the possible challenges of towing.  Ultimately, towing a small travel trailer turns out not to be such a big deal.  Towing your small travel trailer should be easy as long as you are prepared and get the proper tow vehicle and equipment (and follow checklists when leaving).  If you do this, towing your small travel trailer will not be that much more difficult than driving your car.  Initially, it may be stressful, but after towing for a trip or two you will be glad you made the purchase and likely will enjoy your trailer and all the experiences it will offer for many years to come.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

One Simple Way to Increase Your Trailer’s Fresh Water Supply by Over 50%!

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One Simple Way to Increase Your Trailer’s Fresh Water Supply by Over 50%!

Most small travel trailers with kitchens/bathrooms usually have small fresh water tanks compared to larger RVs.  The size of the fresh water tank in our Scamp 13’ is 12 gallons and there is also a hot water tank (6 gallons).  So, our Scamp carries about 18 gallons of fresh water when fully loaded.  Since water weighs around 8.3 pounds per gallon at room temperature, filling the Scamp with fresh water adds about 150 pounds.  Interestingly, we’ve compared towing the Scamp with (completely full fresh and hot water tanks) and without water and did not feel any difference in towing or notice any difference in average gas mileage!  Because of this, if we are heading to a location without hookups (even if there are central water spigots available) we will fill up at home (including the hot water heater tank) before heading out.

The first thing to consider when looking at fresh water is how it will be used when you are camping.  Some people use their fresh water tanks for all their needs while camping.  This includes using their sink/s for washing dishes, rinsing food, washing their hands, washing their face, brushing their teeth, and even drinking; in addition, they will use their shower.  In big RVs with 60 gallon tanks and larger, this may seem reasonable (with the possible exception of drinking).  However, in small travel trailers, one has to be especially mindful of water usage when camping without hookups due to limited water in the tank.  Note:  if there are hookups at the campground, then careful water conservation is not really an issue (except for maybe environmental concerns).

After using our Scamp 13’ (with kitchen sink, bathroom, and shower) for around a year in a combination of boondocking and hookup locations, we now have a good understanding of what the trailer’s water and tank limits are with how we use it.  If we are careful, we can go about 3 days without having to refill our Fresh tank (this is also about the same amount of time that it takes our Grey tank, 21 gallons, to get filled).  This includes 2 people, each taking a shower every day (shower turned on to get wet, turned off while shampooing and lathering, and turned back on to rinse – aka, Navy shower).  We also use our sink to quickly rinse our plates once or twice a day (depending on meals).  One thing we don’t use our water for is drinking (or water for cooking pasta).  Most of the water we use goes down the shower drain into the Grey water tank.  We know some campers who are able to go at least double our time (maybe even around a week) without refilling water because instead of showering daily, they may shower much less frequently or take wipes and avoid the shower altogether!  In our case, we pretty much like to maintain the same type of cleaning rituals that we practice at home.

The key way in which we effectively increase our Scamp’s fresh water supply by over 50% is by carrying our drinking water with us in jugs in our tow vehicle!  We always bring two 4 gallon BPA-free water jugs in the back of our SUV for all our drinking and cooking needs when we go on a typical 10 day trip in our Scamp.  By carrying an additional 8 gallons of fresh water in our tow vehicle, we are effectively increasing our Fresh water tank supply by 67% (12 gallons Fresh > 20 gallons)!!!  This gives us a lot more fresh water supply.  Health experts typically recommend a person drink eight 8-ounce glasses of water per day (8×8 rule), which is about ½ gallon of water per person per day.  So, by using this rule, two people would bring 10 gallons of water on their 10 day trip (1/2 gallon/day x 2 people x 10 days).  We tend to drink slightly less water than this amount because we also drink macadamia milk in our cereal, oat milk in our tea, sometimes soup for lunch, and we eat a lot of juicy fruits (like oranges).  So, for us, bringing 8 gallons of fresh water on a 10 day trip works out great (we always have extra water when we return home).

In addition to greatly expanding our small travel trailer’s fresh water supply by carrying our own fresh water in BPA-free jugs, we also feel more comfortable drinking the water.  Although drinking RV tap water can be safe, that safety is largely dependent on the trailer’s tank and water system having been properly sanitized (see this article on how to sanitize your fresh water tank).  In addition, contaminants can possibly enter the trailer when hooked up at a campsite (either through contamination by the hose, spigot, or the water itself).  Using a water filter can help reduce some risk, but may not entirely defeat it.  Note: water hoses used at campsites should be rated as non-toxic for drinking.  We have always used our sink water for brushing our teeth and have not had any issues (but we do not drink this water – just rinse, and spit out).

There are many potential sources for fresh water if you choose to carry the water in a BPA-free water jug.  Bottled water is perhaps the easiest way to take water on your trip.  It can either be purchased directly at the market, or, there are often inexpensive water machines in front of markets that allow you to fill your own jugs.  Many different types of water are sold, such as alkaline and chemically treated water.  We have a filter water purification system in our home and use that to fill our 4 gallon jugs.  Whatever water and method you use to fill your jugs, you will ultimately greatly expand the amount of fresh water capacity available for your small travel trailer and likely improve the quality of your water by carrying your fresh drinking water separately in your tow vehicle!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Why We Bought an RV and Chose a Small Travel Trailer

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Why We Bought an RV and Chose a Small Travel Trailer

I always thought it would be an adventure to be able to travel around the U.S. and Canada over land and visit State and National parks.  However, making the final decision to actually buy an RV took some time.  There were a lot of considerations such as what type to get, how big it should be, where to store it, and if it really was worth the expense versus just staying at hotels.  This was all before the Pandemic hit which now would seem to make some of these decisions no brainers.

In considering the different types of RVs, I long thought I would enjoy travel trailers the best.  I didn’t really want to drive a motor home around and have to find parking places and storage for it or have to deal with the engine / transmission maintenance.  I also wanted to easily be able to drive around the area after we arrived somewhere without having to navigate and park a big rig.  I considered a Sprinter type van but knew I didn’t want that as my daily car and didn’t want to have the van sitting out in front of my house since it wouldn’t fit in the garage.  Additionally, the Sprinter would need registration and insurance similar in cost to another car (and possibly even more expensive as the Sprinter can cost over $80K).  Also, I didn’t want to risk paying a lot of money for something that we might not want to keep for more than a few years.

I always thought Airstreams were outstanding designs.  Its streamlined aerodynamic metallic look as well as its history with NASA seemed very appealing for someone into aviation and design.  My wife and I went to a couple of Airstream dealerships and sat in some of them.  The designs are sleek and the interiors very appealing.  We spent time considering different models and doing more research on them.  A friend of ours had a 27 footer and sold it a couple years after buying it new.  He said it was just too much to pull and navigate around towns.  After taking a closer look at a 25 foot International and considering the cost of the Airstream, the weight of the trailer, and the price of a capable truck to pull it, the total would be well over $100K; we shelved the idea.  We wanted something reasonable in cost and light weight since we didn’t know if we would like camping, and also something that would be easy to tow and welcome at the smallest parks.  It would also be nice to have something that would fit in driveways for stayovers at friends and family.

After a lot of online research, I identified a trailer called Safari Condo Alto as being something that would maybe meet our criteria.  This Quebec City manufactured trailer is super stylish, extremely light, and has a great interior layout.  We would be able to tow it with an SUV.  They even have a model with a retractable roof to allow for additional height and window area.  We flew to Quebec City for a mini vacation and visited the showroom.  The people were very nice and we really liked the Alto (non-retractable roof version).  We put a deposit down on one, but ultimately decided that since the trailer was fairly unique and the only place that could provide factory service is in Quebec City and we live in San Diego, California that it would be better if we purchased a trailer made in the USA which could either be serviced locally or within the US.  Safari condo was very nice in refunding our deposit.  I think we would have been very happy with the Alto and we have seen a number of them at campgrounds at which we have stayed.

I noticed a stylish little trailer on a ferry in Canada and decided to visit Little Guys Trailers in San Diego to check out the model.  The NuCamp TAB trailers are tear drops and are light and easy to maneuver while towing.  Additionally, they will fit in small spaces.  At about this time, we thought it would be really cool to be able to store a trailer in our garage and these TAB trailers would qualify in this regard.  That way, we could avoid storage costs and also have access to the trailer for doing anything we want to it such as adding things, and decorating.  And by having it at home, we could prep the trailer so it would be ready to leave the next day without having to run out to a storage facility first (including filling up the Fresh tank and dumping using our existing Sewer cleanout).  We really liked the TAB 320S as it had everything we wanted in it including kitchen, bathroom, and dinette which converts to a bed.  The sales people at Little Guys were great and explained that any trailer in California 16 feet or under avoids the annual registration (saving hundreds of dollars per year) and qualifies for a PTI (Permanent Trailer Identification) instead, which only has to be renewed every 5 years for $10!!!  With a couple of more visits and careful thought we ended up scrapping our plans for a TAB 320S.  The deal breaker was that the interior height is only five feet nine inches, which meant I had to bend my head whenever standing up in it.

We met a helpful neighbor who lived next door while we were on a house sitting trip to Northern California.  She had a trailer in the driveway and we started a conversation letting her know we were looking for a trailer.  She immediately recommended the “best trailer” she ever had, a fiberglass “egg”.  Her favorite trailer she had owned was a Casita (made in Texas), but she said a very comparable trailer was made in Minnesota called the Scamp, and she encouraged us to look at both models.  Because these “eggs” are fiberglass, they tend to last much longer than most other types of trailers and may have fewer issues (e.g. not prone to water leaks).  They are extremely light and easy to maneuver and set up.  We researched both and picked the Scamp because of the more generous interior head room (6’3”) as well as the 13 foot length option.  The 13’ Scamp is also considerably lighter than the shortest Casita model.  We also learned that the Scamp is a cult icon and Scamp trailers built in the 1970s are still on the road!  There are Scamp camping meets every year and many Scamp owners who attend these events become lifelong friends.  Another great aspect with these “eggs’ is their price – which generally run below $20K for a nicely outfitted new model and tend to hold their value really well.  In addition, they can be towed with most SUVs and even some cars so an expensive heavy duty truck is not a required additional purchase.  Although not dirt cheap, these eggs are still modestly priced when compared to other types of trailers.

After finally feeling like we found a trailer that would suit us, I called Scamp and placed our order in May 2019 (about a 7 month waiting time is usual).  The salespeople were very nice and walked us through the entire process, which included picking options from a long list since all Scamps are custom orders.  We pretty much got most options except for the AC which would sit too high on the trailer’s roof to fit into our garage, which we still had to modify (I will write about this in a future blog post).  Note:  there are now low profile ACs that may allow the Scamp trailer to fit under an 8’ garage height opening and Scamp usually is willing to work with the customer on special requests.

I received an email from Scamp in September 2019 advising that our trailer was about ready to start production and to confirm options choices.  I called on the phone and we reviewed everything along with things like outlet placements.  I also wanted to add a digital tank monitor so we could see what percentage full our tanks were and they did this as well for a small service fee (I had the part shipped from an online store directly to Scamp).  We opted to pay a Scamp driver to deliver our trailer from Minnesota since we didn’t have the time right before Thanksgiving to make the trip (although I’ve read many owners highly recommend visiting the Scamp factory).  Our 2020 13’ Standard Scamp trailer with bathroom and larger bed showed up at our door right before Thanksgiving 2019!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.