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scamp 13

Let the “Vikings” Heat Your Small Travel Trailer

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Let the “Vikings” Heat Your Small Travel Trailer

We were cooking lunch at a State park on a recent trip up to Oregon and the flames on our Scamp 13’ stove went out all of a sudden.  I immediately checked the gauge on our propane tank and it still showed GREEN.   Just to make sure it wasn’t an empty propane tank with a faulty gauge reading, I switched over to our 2nd tank and, viola, we were able to light our stove again!  Hmmm.  What was going on with the gauge?  After a bit of research, I discovered that propane gauges are notoriously unreliable.  Maybe in our situation the gauge was stuck.  In any case though, it seems that relying on a gauge to determine when the propane tank is near empty may not be a good idea.  We were very fortunate we had a 2nd propane tank on our Scamp 13’.  At some of the locations on that recent trip, the temperatures dipped down into the teens at night and we would have been very uncomfortable had our propane powered furnace stopped working.

After investigating several possible solutions (including different types of pressure gauges) to help solve the problem of having an unexpected empty propane tank at perhaps a very undesirable time, I discovered Viking Cylinders (made in Norway).  These are tanks made from composite materials (3 layers – seamless blow-molded liner, fiberglass-wrapped plastic casing, and a durable outer case) which offer several advantages over steel and aluminum tanks:

  1. Translucent – you can actually see the liquid propane in the tank if you wiggle the tank a little (although you have to look very carefully).
  2. Lightweight – Viking claims their tanks weigh “more than 50% less than steel propane tanks”.
  3. Safer than metal – the cylinder is not supposed to explode in a fire (but melt and allowing the gas to safely escape).
  4. Non corrosive – since it’s not metal, it won’t rust or corrode or leave rust marks on surfaces.
  5. Stable – the base of each cylinder is very stable, making it harder to fall over.
  6. Attractive – a really superb looking cylinder!
  7. Easy to handle – it’s easy to pick up and move around with great handles and light weight.

When I saw Viking was having a 25% off sale ($80 in total savings), I purchased two of their 17# tanks to replace the 20# tanks on our Scamp 13’ along with their custom double RV mount (since the Scamp mount wouldn’t accommodate these tanks).  The first thing I noticed when unboxing them is how great they look and how light they feel!  I had read online that some service stations have refused to fill these types of composite tanks, so it was nice to see that each tank had a DOT (Department of Transportation) Certification Certificate attached (meaning the tank is certified to travel on highways and roads).   Putting the tanks in the back of my SUV was a breeze and the service station down the street had no problem filling them!  Installing the new mount was easy and the new mount looks much nicer than the old one, appearing to have a nice thick white powder coating.  All the stock Scamp parts (regulator, hoses, and switch) worked fine on the new mount.

After filling the new Viking composite tanks at the service station (the tanks came purged and ready to fill), I weighed them.  Each filled Viking tank (holding about 3.8 gallons of propane per tank) weighed around 26.6 lbs.  The Scamp’s original 20# steel tanks (holding about 4.5 gallons of propane) each weighed around 37 lbs. when filled.  So, in my testing, the filled 17# Viking Cylinders weigh about 40% less than the stock 20# steel propane tanks that came with the Scamp (albeit with slightly less propane).  The weight difference is even more striking when comparing empty tank weights (tare weights).  An empty 17# Viking Cylinder only weighs around 10 lbs. (compared to around 17lbs. for an empty steel 20# propane tank)!  That’s a 70% difference in weight when empty!  This weight difference between the composite and steels tanks is very noticeable when removing each tank and moving it into your vehicle.  Additionally, it can make a big difference on hitch weight (especially when considering a 2 propane tank setup).

The main reason I purchased the Viking tanks wasn’t for weight reasons though – it was for the ability to see the liquid propane inside the tank.  The Viking tanks have cut out patterns which allow visibility into the liner holding the liquid propane.  I was a little disappointed when I first had the tanks filled because I couldn’t see the liquid.  However, I later figured this was because the liquid was at such a high level that it was above the viewing cutouts.  After one camping trip using the Viking tanks, the liquid propane level in the tank dropped such that I was able to see the liquid moving around when slightly shifting the top one of the tanks.  Even so though, you do have to look very carefully to see the liquid.  In the end, despite the liquid propane being a bit difficult to see in the tank, I still think the Viking tanks are much better than the steel tanks in determining how much propane is left.

I’m very satisfied with the Viking Cylinders.  They look great, are super light, won’t rust, are safer than steel tanks, are easy to handle, and offer the ability to see the liquid propane inside the tank (mostly eliminating the guessing of when the propane is likely to run out).  They are much more expensive than regular steel tanks ($140 for a 17# Viking cylinder vs. around $35 for a 20# tank as of this writing), so I wouldn’t call them a necessity.  They also do need to be requalified every 5 years (from the manufacturing date on the tank) through a visual inspection by an approved requalifier.  Viking has a searchable list of requalifiers on their website.   If the extra cost isn’t a factor, then the added benefits of the Viking Cylinders are well worth switching out your steel tanks for these composite ones!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

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Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

After a year of trips with our Scamp 13’ (33 nights, 23 locations, 7 trips), we’ve gained a good understanding of how the trailer functions and which accessories provide added benefit.  Because our adventures often involve locations without electricity (such as some State and National parks and boondocking campsites), one excellent solution we implemented is a solar panel system.  The system ensures that our small travel trailer has the power needed to run the most essential functions (e.g. indoor LED lights, water pumps, heater, fans, and perhaps an electric tongue jack).  Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC).

The trailer’s battery is usually around 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to keep the trailer’s battery charge level above 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity).  A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor the trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install a SeeLevel II system when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs voltage monitors on its 2021 models).  There are aftermarket voltage monitors that simply plug into the 12 volt DC port in the trailer.  Here’s one with a BLUE display and here’s one with a RED display.

We’ve found that a basic 100W solar briefcase (two 50W solar panels which fold up on each other into a briefcase when not in use) is all that is necessary to provide enough power for essential systems in our Scamp 13’ (as long as the camper has sun exposure every few days).  The solar briefcase is nice because it is relatively light and can fit in the back of the tow vehicle when not in use.  We use an auxiliary battery power bank, a Jackery 500, for charging our phones, cameras, drone, and television when boondocking to reserve all of our Scamp’s 12V battery power for essential devices/functions.

The items needed to create a reliable solar system for your small travel trailer are:

  1. High quality 100W solar briefcase (monocrystalline)
  2. 2 pin waterproof male/female connector for the plastic battery box (houses the trailer battery)
  3. 20 foot solar extension cables
  4. 50 foot solar extension cables
  5. Solar crimper tool
  6. 12AWG (thickness) Wire (about 12 inches black / 12 inches red)
  7. Solar panel cable connectors
  8. Solar panel connector assembly tool
  9. Multi-meter Tester
  10. Portable Power Station

Update Sept. 2022:  after a few years, the bag that came with our solar panels split apart (it was always too small and difficult to deal with).  Here’s a much better bag!  Also, we’ve found having 50 foot cables which can extend the 20 foot cables to be a great option when the campsite is in shade most of the time and the longer cables can get the solar panels out into the sun!

Monocrystalline solar panels have the highest efficiency rates (more power per square foot) and perform best in low light conditions, so that’s the type we chose and we’ve been very pleased with the performance.  Make sure you choose a solar panel briefcase which comes with a charge controller.  The charge controller will keep your small travel trailer’s battery from overcharging.  On a recent trip to Joshua Tree National Park, we were down to 12.3 volts one morning.  As soon as the solar panels were plugged into the battery, the power registered 13.6 volts and maintained that steady voltage through most of the day.  When the solar panels were unplugged at sunset, the Scamp battery registered 12.7 volts (100% charge)!  We were staying at a Boondockers Welcome location without any hookups and relied on our Jackery 500 to charge our phones and other non-essential devices (including watching TV at night).  So, as long as there is sun every few days, the solar panel setup will keep the small travel trailer battery charged almost indefinitely!

Once you have the items needed to create your solar system, you will need to connect everything together.  Solar panel briefcases which come with charge controllers usually have a couple of metal clips on the end of each cable (black and red) which attach the solar panel cables directly to the small travel trailer battery (similar to the clips on car jumper cables, by clipping on to the red and black terminals of the battery).  Sometimes these clips are attached directly to the cables coming out of the solar controller and in other cases are separate and have connectors that plug into cable connectors coming out of the charge controller.  In any case, it is cumbersome to use the clips if your small travel battery is covered by a plastic housing box (like with our Scamp 13’).  We would have to take our plastic battery housing on and off each time we used the solar panels if we used the clips.  So, to make things easy, use a waterproof 2 pin male female connector port on the case.  Before installing onto the plastic battery case cover, some black and red 12AWG wires need to be soldered onto the inside port half, and ring terminals crimped onto the ends of the wires so they can connect to the trailer battery (Ring Terminal 12-10 Crimp Connectors, 5/16” Home Depot).  (If you are not familiar with soldering, either have a friend do it or hire an expert.  Otherwise, skip this step and just use the clips directly onto your battery terminals and omit the battery port.)  Once the inside port half has its cables, drill an appropriately sized hold in the plastic battery case cover and mount the port (the outside piece of the port screws into the inside piece to hold it in position on the case).  Then, screw down the ring terminals to the red and black battery terminals and close the battery housing box.  The last step is to solder the outside male connector (which plugs into the battery port) to the 20’ solar extension cables.

Depending on how the solar briefcase is configured, it might be beneficial to create two short cables (red/black) with the 12AWG wire and add MC4 connectors at the end which the 20’ solar extension cables can plug into (they should already have MC4 connectors on them, sometimes male on Black and female on Red).  Some solar briefcases are already configured with these short cables and connectors and it’s important to understand which connectors are male and which are female so they plug in appropriately.  Having short cables connected to the charge controller will allow the solar briefcase to be folded with the short cables still attached to the charge controller.  With this setup, all one needs to do when arriving at the campsite is open and position the solar panels, lay out the solar extension cable, and then join the connectors at the solar panels and plug the other end of the solar extension cable into the small travel trailer’s battery port.

It may be helpful to have a digital multimeter to check there is continuity from one end of the extension cables to the other and also to verify power is coming out of the extension cable at the male side of the port.  On my first attempt, no power was coming out of my extension cable.  So, I tested the continuity of the cable using the meter (makes a tone when the connection is continuous).  I found that one of the factory installed connectors wasn’t making a good connection and, after I reinstalled the connector, everything worked great!  You can also tell right away if your system is working just by checking your voltage.  If everything is good, the sun is out, and the panels are plugged into the system, the voltage will go up to the 13 voltage range right away (almost like the trailer is plugged into an electrical outlet).

Once you discover solar and how effective it is, you will never want to leave home without it!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to Consistently and Easily Hook Up your Hitch Ball

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How to Consistently and Easily Hook Up your Hitch Ball

One of the trickiest procedures for new small travel trailer owners is backing up and lining up the hitch ball so the hitch coupler will drop securely on top of it.  Getting the ball (on your tow vehicle) properly aligned with your trailer coupler takes some practice, but gets easier with experience.  One trick I like is taping a ribbon (about 6 inches long) on the travel trailer’s tow coupler so the ribbon hangs straight down (I attached the ribbon with Gorilla Tape so it stays for a while!).  I use my SUV’s rear camera (set to Tow Bar line) and slowly and carefully back up, keeping my SUV aimed at the ribbon.  If your tow vehicle doesn’t have a rear camera, I recommend purchasing one aftermarket.  It’s important that the tow vehicle is aligned so it’s on the same line to the trailer to ensure the hitch ball will fit properly when the hitch coupler is lowered (e.g. no angles between tow vehicle and trailer).  Also, make sure the coupler is raised high enough so the hitch ball doesn’t hit it when you back up under it.  Once I get fairly close to the hitch coupler, I very slowly inch my way back until the ball on the SUV hitch brushes up against the ribbon and then a smidge beyond.  At this point, the tow coupler is right over the ball.  Make sure to take your time and don’t be concerned if it initially takes a number of times to get it right.

If your ball is directly below the hitch coupler and your tow vehicle is aligned with the trailer (e.g. no angles between vehicle and trailer), you can now drop (hand crank or electric power jack) the coupler onto the ball and it should sit so that none or barely any of the bottom of the ball will be visible if looking at it from the side.  If the coupler doesn’t go all the way down and it seems the lower portion of the ball is visible, it’s likely that the alignment wasn’t quite right.  In this case, it will also not be possible to secure the hitch latch into the locked position.  If this happens, raise the trailer coupler, pull away, line up your tow vehicle, and try again.  Never try to force the coupler to lock.  It does take some force to latch the coupler down, but not an excessive amount.  I had one experience, when we were boondocking on a farm in Bakersfield, where everything appeared nicely lined up but the hitch latch wouldn’t close.  The ground was dirt and very uneven and I suspected the coupler just wasn’t seating properly on the ball, so I pulled away and lined up again and everything worked smoothly.  I was glad I didn’t try to force the coupling.

After locking, I recommend pulling up on the travel trailer coupler a couple times to watch the tow vehicle rear end go up and down to make sure the ball is really securely locked into place in the coupler (again, none or barely any of the bottom of the ball will be visible if looking at it from the side).  In addition, I recommend using a coupler lock, not only as a theft security device, but also to help prevent the coupler latch from popping open while driving.  After securing the coupler latch, it’s imperative to attach your safety chains and plug in your trailer to the tow vehicle so your trailer’s lights and emergency brakes are communicating with the tow vehicle (and check that the trailer lights are working before leaving).

Securing the trailer coupler onto the hitch ball is one of the most important things you can do to ensure a safe towing experience with your small travel trailer.  With practice and following these tips, securing your trailer to your tow vehicle should become a successful, easy, and stress-free experience.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to Replace Your Particle Board Table Bed in Your Small Travel Trailer

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How to Replace Your Particle Board Table Bed in Your Small Travel Trailer

I had wanted to replace our 2020 Scamp 13’ particle board table bed ever since we first received our new trailer directly from the Scamp factory about 12 months ago.  Lifting it up and down to make and unmake the bed was a real chore because of the table’s heavy weight.  And, our table actually has an additional smaller particle board piece because our Scamp 13’ has the bigger 54” bed.  The larger piece, which is the table, is 32 inches long x 29 ½” wide and weighs about 23 pounds with hardware.  The smaller piece, which is necessary for the extended bed support, is 20 inches long x 29 ½” wide and weighs about 12.4 pounds.   So, with both pieces stacked together, the table weighs over 35 pounds!!!  No wonder why I always had to wrestle with the table to lower and raise it!  Note:  weight is one of particle board’s ugly not-so-little secrets.

Because our Scamp 13’ is so new, I was hesitant to replace the factory table.  However, that all changed when the table deconstructed itself one day when I was lifting it up and back into position (structural weakness is another bullet point on particle board’s not so impressive resume).  As I was elevating the table to its upright position and sliding the thin metal brackets into their clamshell receptacles attached to the wall, one of the hardware fittings attached underneath the Scamp table ripped right out (all the screws and the particle board they were screwed into), leaving a big crater underneath the table!  I called Scamp and they told me it was probably time to replace the table.  Given that I didn’t like the weight of the now ruined table or the look of the faux wood grain, I decided it was time for an alternative.

I did some research and discovered that I wasn’t alone in wanting to replace at least some of the particle board in our small travel trailer.  Lots of campers do it to lighten the weight of their rigs.  I even wrote an article based on my research called “5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper”.  At this point, it was clear that the table breaking in our Scamp was actually a very good thing because it forced our hands to replace the particle board tables!

A very popular material choice for making tables in RVs which can also be used for bed support is ¾” lightweight plywood.  It’s strong, super light, and looks great!  It’s also widely available at home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s and it’s inexpensive.  Additionally, these stores can cut the plywood for you at a very low price (or possibly for free).  Be aware though, these stores will only make straight cuts, so if you want a table with rounded corners (like we did), you will need to make those cuts yourself or have someone else do it for you.  I did notice though that the saw blade used by the guy cutting our wood at Home Depot was likely dull because there was a lot of splintering of the edges of the plywood (he also didn’t tape the edges to prevent this from happening).  In the end, my builder brother-in-law Bobby not only did the rounded cuts for us, but also had to redo a lot of the Home Depot cuts to replace the damaged edges (fortunately we had a lot of extra plywood to work with in the 4’x8’ piece we purchased).

We chose Maple plywood (non-toxic version) which looks beautiful and has high dramatic impact when varnished with multiple coats of interior crystal clear high gloss polyurethane.  We purchased one piece of 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Maple Plywood at Home Depot for around $60.  Since we didn’t need nearly that much wood, I also measured our particle board stove cover and had pieces cut for its replacement.  As mentioned previously, the Home Depot cuts were a bit dirty, resulting in a lot of splintering.  Regardless, my brother-in-law Bobby redid some cuts, rounded the corners, and otherwise cleaned up the wood edges.  Once satisfied with all the pieces [main table 32” x 29.5”, smaller table 20” x 29.5”, and materials for the stove cover (Top 15” x 20”, Front/Back two of 3” x 20”, Sides two of 3” x 13.75”)], I glued the stove cover pieces together with white wood glue and let sit overnight and then applied the polyurethane varnish with three high gloss coats to the two tables and stove cover. The finish came out beautifully, with very high luster revealing the maple’s exquisite golden rippled grain patterns.

The next step after finishing the table top is removing the old table from the Scamp, which is fairly straightforward.  Before removing the existing table with hardware from the Scamp, I labeled both the left square metal bracket affixed to the wall and the square metal part above it which is attached underneath the table with an “L”, to keep the orientation the same when mounting to the new tabletop.  I used a square #2 screwdriver bit with my mini cordless screw driver to remove all 8 square head screws holding the folding table mechanism to the wall (don’t touch the metal clamshell pieces located at the table’s back edge against the wall below the window).   The table should stay standing up once you remove the square metal wall anchors because the top of the table is still held by the clamshell brackets and the front of the table is resting on its singular leg.  Now, to completely remove the table from the Scamp, just lift the front like you are making the bed so the thin brackets in back slide out of the clamshells.  It’s good to have help in holding the table, as you will also need to retract the table leg.  Once done, you can carefully remove the table from the Scamp.

Find an area on a carpet or smooth service and set the old Scamp table face down on the floor right next to the face down new table top (back edge to back edge so you can locate where to install the metal brackets into the new table).  I used blue painters tape and a tape measure to mark the exact locations for the brackets on the new table.  Remove the 8 square head screws holding the folding mechanism metal brackets to the old table and place them over the new table in the same location (and using the holes, mark each hole with a felt tipped pen).  Use a small diameter drill bit (smaller than the diameter of the screws) and wrap the drill bit to a length shorter than the screws with blue tape to ensure you don’t drill the pilot holes anywhere near through to the top of the table.  Drill shallow holes where you marked the dots.  Then, being careful to install the Left mount under the left side of the table; use your square #2 screwdriver bit with drill to slowly install the screws until they are tight (I also dipped the tip of each screw with white wood glue to prevent them from coming loose).  Now, remove the table leg from the old table with your screwdriver and position on your new table so it is in the exact same position.  Like before, drill pilot holes and then screw down the leg onto the new table.  Next, install the new table into the Scamp by slipping the back thin metal brackets into the clamshell receptacles and extending the table leg.  The table should stand by itself while you screw down the 8 square head screws attaching the metal brackets for the table folding mechanism back into the wall.

I weighed the tables after completing the project.  The new main table weighs 14.6 lbs. with varnish and hardware (compared to the particle board’s 23 lbs.) and the smaller table weighs 6.8 lbs. (compared to the particle board’s 12.4 lbs.); together the new plywood tables weigh 21.4 lbs., about 40% lighter than the original particle board factory tables which weighed in at 35.4 lbs. !!!  And, in addition from being so much nicer looking, the new maple plywood tables are much easier to raise and lower!  You will love your new light tables!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Wonder Valley (Twenty Nine Palms)

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Wonder Valley (Twenty Nine Palms)
December 12th – 14th, 2020

About a 3-hour drive from San Diego and close to Palm Springs, Wonder Valley is a desert oasis in Twenty Nine Palms, California boasting wide open views and dark skies filled with billions of stars.  It’s located very close to Joshua Tree National Park, which borders the Colorado and Mojave deserts.  The main features of the park are the magnificent Joshua Trees which stand over 20 feet tall and the massive boulder formations which take many shapes.  This is one of the few, if only, places Joshua Trees are found (some say they are also found in Jerusalem).

Although the overnight campgrounds were closed at the time of our visit due to the mandatory pandemic California shut down, the park was still open for day use.  We really wanted to go not only to see Joshua Tree National Park for the first time, but also to witness the peak of the Gemenid meteor showers.  Fortunately, there is a Boondockers Welcome location very close to the park entrance in Wonder Valley and the owner was very nice in accommodating us for a couple of nights!  The boondocking campsite we stayed at is a very large flat paved 2 acre area butting up to the desert.  There was one other travel trailer on this site when we arrived, but the area is large enough to fit 10 rigs, so we had plenty of space!

When we arrived it was very windy, but still clear and sunny.  We were careful to position our Scamp 13’ small travel trailer directly into the wind to minimize buffeting of the trailer.  The wind was very strong, but just blew right over us from the front of the trailer and we didn’t feel or hear much of it.  Since there are no hookups at this location, we made sure to fully charge our Scamp’s batteries the day before leaving, fill our Scamp’s freshwater tank with 12 gallons of fresh water and the hot water heater with 6 gallons of fresh water, bring one full 4 gallon jug of drinking water and 2 x 6 gallon water jugs to refill our freshwater tank, bring our Jackery 500 auxiliary power bank, as well as pack our refrigerator and storage box with enough food for a few days.  We found out later there is a free water spigot to supply campers’ water jugs at the Visitor’s Center at the entrance of the park on Utah Trail road.  We also made sure to bring our solar panels since we would need a little help from the sun to keep our Scamp 13’ batteries charged.

We had a nice late lunch in the Scamp after arriving (some pasta cooked up on the stove) and decided to check out the Visitor’s Center.  We found some really cool Joshua Tree t-shirts and spoke to some park rangers a bit.  They told us the park would be closed from 10 p.m. – 5 a.m. in honor of the coronavirus curfew now in effect.  Darkness falls early in December in the desert and we decided to wait until the next day (Sunday) to go into the park.  It was very cold and windy in the evening (early 30’s at night), so we decided to watch a movie hoping the wind would settle (see how to watch movies in the wild).  Our Scamp furnace kept us nice and toasty.  The wind did quiet eventually and we were able to see some meteors!  The sky at night here is very dark and the stars sparkle!  The location feels very remote.

The next morning we took a little walk around our campsite in the desert.  There are many interesting dilapidated shacks that dot the landscape – our Boondockers Welcome host explained to us that they are the byproduct of the Small Tract Act of 1938, a federal homestead act that deeded mostly 5-acre plots of land to distribute 457,000 acres of desert that the Bureau of Land Management deemed useless (the act was repealed in 1979).  Under the guidelines, homesteaders were granted the land if they built homes no smaller than 12 x 16 feet (192 square feet).  Most of these structures are tiny, currently in terrible condition, and many still have original old furnishings – we saw one with an old oven and a tea kettle still on the stove!  However, some of these shacks have been renovated and we also saw the new construction of a mini-home (supposedly by a man from Texas building his “dream” home)!

After a decadent pancake breakfast in our Scamp, we headed back to the Visitor’s Center to purchase an America the Beautiful Annual Pass ($80) which allows unlimited entry into National Parks for a year as well as other government lands.  We are planning on going to Death Valley National Park, Pinnacles National Park, Lassen Volcanic National Park, as well as other National Parks this year, so having the pass will save a lot on entrance fees (currently $30 per car at Joshua Tree National Park).  Driving into the park was easy and there are places to stop along the roads.  Based on the time of year and the strict pandemic orders, there were hardly any visitors during our trip.  There are a lot of very interesting trails, plants (including Joshua Trees), and rock formations to keep one busy for days.  We saw Skull Rock which looks like it sounds and completed an easy 2 mile hike to Split Rock.  We really didn’t have enough time to see everything and, in turn, we plan to come back in April with friends and will stay inside the park at Jumbo Rocks campground. Joshua Tree National Park is definitely a must visit if only to see the curiously interesting and one-of-a-kind Joshua trees!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

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5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

Particle board is an engineered wood product made with wood chips and glue (synthetic resin).  The main reason manufacturers of small travel trailers use particle board for tables, countertops, doors, and drawers / cabinets is because it’s cheap.   Here are 5 reasons you may consider replacing particle board in your camper:

(1).  Particle board can be very heavy. It’s held together with glue (resin) and the weight can add up quickly.  We are in the process of replacing our 2020 Scamp 13’ table (actually two tables since we ordered the 54” bigger bed option) and we just weighed the smaller bed support table (20” long x 29.5” wide).  We used ¾” maple plywood purchased from Home Depot for our new table.  Our original particle board small table weighs 12.4 lbs., compared to our new fully varnished (high gloss interior polyurethane with 3 coats) small table at 6.8 lbs.  That’s a huge weight difference (the particle board table is about 80% heavier).

(2).  Particle board can be very weak. Because it’s made from wood chips and glue, it doesn’t have the structural strength of real lumber.  For most purposes in the small travel trailer, that’s OK because putting food or other items on a table generally won’t break the particle board.  However, any metal fittings that are screwed into the particle board have the potential of ripping out if exposed to a load.  That’s what happened one day recently when I was setting up our Scamp table.  As I was elevating the table to its upright position and sliding the thin metal brackets into their clamshell receptacles attached to the wall, one of the hardware fittings attached underneath the Scamp table ripped right out (all the screws and the particle board they were screwed into), leaving a big crater underneath the table.

(3).  Particle board is highly porous. So, if any moisture happens to leak underneath its veneer cover, the particle board can easily absorb the moisture, expand, and warp.  Additionally, it can be susceptible to mold which may eat through the board and cause various health issues.

(4).  Particle board can be toxic if manufactured with formaldehyde resin (which it commonly is). The resin can break down for years and release formaldehyde gas (called “off gassing”).  The gas can pollute the interior air of the small travel trailer and cause eyes to water, throats to burn, and difficulty breathing.  This gas is also known to be carcinogenic and toxic, meaning it may cause certain types of cancer.  It’s also been linked to an increased risk of allergies and asthma in children.  The U.S. Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR) states that “chronic exposure to formaldehyde may also cause general damage to the central nervous system, such as increased prevalence of headache, depression, mood changes, insomnia, irritability, attention deficit, and impairment of dexterity, memory and equilibrium.”

(5).  Particle board can be ugly. Although this may be a matter of personal preference, I’ve always found the wood veneer skins that are glued to many particle board surfaces to have a dated and artificial appearance.  In contrast, maple or birch veneers on plywood are really great looking.

It’s understandable that a manufacturer producing hundreds or thousands of units of travel trailers would choose particle board to save extensively on build costs.  However, that doesn’t mean you have to live with what some describe as “cut rate cheap junk” in your travel trailer.  For the 5 reasons listed above, replacing the particle board (or at least some of it) in your small travel trailer is worth serious consideration.  Because particle board has a lower expected life span compared to plywood due to being weak and porous, you might just have to replace it anyway in the near future (as in our case with our 12 month old 2020 Scamp 13’ table / bed).  If you do decide to replace any of your particle board with plywood, just make sure that the plywood type you choose is constructed with non-toxic adhesives (e.g. no formaldehyde).  The maple plywood sheeting we purchased at Home Depot is made without formaldehyde using a soy-based technology, “producing a water-resistant, nontoxic decorative plywood panel that is not prone to warp like solid wood and will not emit harmful fumes or degrade interior air quality.”

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Methods to Avoid Dreaded False Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector Alarms

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Methods to Avoid Dreaded False Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector Alarms

Small travel trailers are usually outfitted with combination Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarms.  The one in our 2020 Scamp 13’ is located near the front door under one of the dinette seats.  It’s essential that every small travel trailer have one of these alarms because smoke and carbon monoxide exposure can be lethal.  Carbon monoxide is a poisonous gas that cannot be seen or smelled and is produced by liquid propane.  CO gas can potentially enter the travel trailer via a gas stove or gas powered water heater (or gas powered heaters and generators).  Carbon monoxide is especially toxic when built up in a small enclosed space like a small travel trailer.  So, it’s really important that the Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector is functioning properly and is replaced by the marked replace date.  It’s also imperative that an alarm be taken very seriously as it could make the difference between life and death.  If you have a Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarm, the recommended procedure is to quickly exit your trailer and turn off your propane tanks outside (leaving the trailer door open to ventilate).

False alarms from Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarms in small travel trailers are very common, but also sometimes frightening when first experienced (which often is around 2 a.m.).  I had my first one after walking out of a steamy shower and opening the bathroom door compartment into the main cabin.  The alarm immediately went off.  We also experienced one in the middle of the night when sleeping with closed windows and no fan running.  In both cases, we cleared the alarms quickly by opening up a window and running the fan on high for several minutes.  We learned that the most common cause for these types of false alarms is heavy moisture in the air (which can be caused by both a steamy shower and keeping all windows closed and allowing condensation inside the trailer).

Ever since our first Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector false alarms and learning that air moisture is usually their cause, we have avoided these dreaded alerts by keeping air flowing in our Scamp 13’.  We always turn on the bathroom fan and the main cabin fan (with one window slightly open) when taking a shower.  This ensures that air is blowing through the trailer.  The interior of our Scamp 13’ can also get condensation during the night if sleeping with all windows completely shut and no fans running.  In turn, when we go to sleep, we usually have a window slightly open and the main cabin fan running on low (and running the furnace if it is cold out).  Note:  it’s also a good idea to open your stove window and run your fan when cooking with your gas stove (we run our fan with the air blowing OUT) to vent out all gas fumes.

So, when showering and sleeping in your small travel trailer, always try to keep at least the bathroom fan on when showering, and the roof fan on (OUT setting) and a window slightly open throughout the night.  They don’t have to be open very much, just enough to keep air flowing.  Even if it’s really cold out, you can keep these open and run your furnace.  The furnace will keep you warm.  If you follow these recommendations and keep your small travel trailer properly ventilated, you are unlikely to be awakened in the middle of the night by a false Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarm or have issues with condensation.  And, your small travel trailer will likely be filled with cleaner fresher air by bringing fresh air in and flushing out indoor air pollution.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

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Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

Small travel trailers aren’t too complex, but one important system you should know something about is the electrical system and how it works.  The most important reason for this is so that you always have the power you need to at least run the most essential functions necessary to keep your trailer operating (e.g. LED lights, water pumps, heater, and perhaps an electric tongue jack).  Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC).  Your trailer’s battery is about 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to never let your trailer’s battery go below 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity).  A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor your trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install one when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs them on its 2021 models).

A good way of explaining how electricity works in your small travel trailer is by using the water/hose analogy.  Your trailer’s battery can be thought of as a water pump; the charge of your battery is water, voltage is the water pressure pushing the water through the hose (trailer’s electrical cables), the current being the flow of the water (measured in Amps), and power is the total amount of water flowing in a given time (measured in watts).  Most campgrounds offer 110V AC 30 amp outlets (typically the amperage used in small travel trailer electrical systems) and sometimes 110V AC 50 amp outlets (used for large RVs – for running two or more high-powered devices simultaneously like an electric water heater and AC).  The higher number of amps means more power can be supplied to your trailer at any given time.  Campgrounds may also offer 15/20 amp outlets at 110V AC (like the ones typically found at home).  These outlets provide less power capacity than 30 / 50 amp outlets (meaning you may not be able to run your AC and electric water heater at the same time without tripping the circuit breaker) and generally should only be used as a last resort if a 30 amp hookup is not available for your small travel trailer (or if you are at a home using a 110V Male to 30A Female adapter).    It’s also a good idea to have an auxiliary battery power bank, like a Jackery 500, for use when you are off grid and want to preserve your trailer’s 12V battery power for essential devices.

Your small travel trailer will likely have a converter which converts 110 volt power coming in from your campground hookup outlet into 12 Volts.  This enables all the 12 volt devices in your small travel trailer to work off 110V, like your LED lights, pumps, etc.  When hooked up, you will also be able to use the 110V outlets inside your small travel trailer to power other plug-in devices you bring along with you on your trip (being careful not to exceed the circuit limits in your trailer – often 15 or 20 amp fuses / circuit breakers).  However, if your small travel trailer has 110V outlets, they are unlikely to work without hookups because most small trailers don’t have inverters (allows your 12V battery to power 110 volt outlets).  Common devices running off electricity inside your small travel trailer are LED lights, a fresh water pump that pressurizes your water system and allows you to use your fresh water tank (city water provided by a hose hookup does not require a pump since it in itself provides continuous water pressure), a water pump under the shower floor to keep the shower water draining into the grey tank and preventing the shower floor from flooding, the bathroom fan, the main overhead fan, TV, the electric furnace blower fan which blows the hot air typically produced by the propane heater, and other electric ignition systems used for lighting gas powered devices like the water heater, and potentially others.

One very important item that should be with your small travel trailer at all times is a 110V Male to 30A Female dogbone adapter.  This will allow you to connect your trailer’s 30A power cord into a regular household 110V outlet.  It’s essential when you want to hook up at a house or anywhere there is just a regular 110V outlet.  Since we store our Scamp travel trailer in our garage, we constantly use the adapter to keep our battery charged and also run the Scamp lights and other appliances when necessary.  Additionally, we often use the adapter so we can power our Scamp’s refrigerator the day before we leave on a trip so we can put our groceries in early [since our Scamp has 3 modes for running the fridge – AC, 12V (when driving), and Propane (when no electricity is available at the campground)].  Lastly, it’s very common for us to stop at a relative’s house during our trips and we use the adapter for power when we driveway camp.

A large external independent battery power bank can power many of your essential devices while preserving your travel trailer’s battery power for your super essential appliances like lights, fans, and pumps.  We purchased the Jackery 500 which has 518Wh of power (which can power a lot of devices for a long time).  To calculate how long the Jackery 500 (which is rated at 518 Wh) will run devices, simply divide the device’s total energy in the powerbank (518W) by the appliance’s energy draw (measured in Watts).  For example, our 12V TV draws 28W, so it should run about 18.5 hours (518Wh/28W).  We recently used our 12V TV powered by the Jackery on a trip from San Diego to Oregon and watched two hour movies each night for five nights and there was still about 50% charge left on the Jackery, confirming this calculation.  When boondocking (no power hookups), use your battery power bank to run your TV, charge your batteries (phone, camera, drone, etc.) and other portable battery powered devices.  This will ensure your small travel trailer batteries are completely dedicated to your essential devices.  The Jackery 500  has a 12V cigarette socket, USB ports, and even a 110V outlet.  It can even be used to run a portable air compressor.  You can charge it in your car while driving between camping locations, with 110V power outlets at campsites, and also with a solar panel.

Just because your small travel trailer is connected up to a 30A hookup, doesn’t mean all that current can flow through to your devices.  Your small travel trailer has fuses for each circuit to protect devices within your trailer.  Many of these circuits are allocated only 15 or 20 amps to protect the devices on the circuit and the 15/20 amp fuses protecting these circuits will blow if too many lights and appliances draw power from the circuit.  If this happens, the metal ribbon inside the fuse will melt and the circuit will go dead (meaning all the devices on the circuit will be rendered temporarily useless until the fuse if replaced).  This is designed to protect your appliances from getting too much power and, in turn, damaged.  So, it’s important you don’t plug anything in which may place too much demand on your small travel trailer’s electrical system (e.g. hairdryer).  So, when adding new 110V plug-in devices to your trailer, check the device’s power requirements (divide the device’s Watts / 110 volts = # of amps).  For example, if you want to use a small electric ceramic space heater, calculate the device’s amps and make sure it will draw less than the circuit can handle (let’s assume 15 amps) when also considering all other appliances on the circuit.  Each fuse in your small travel trailer should be labeled so you know what circuit it represents.  In this case, if there are already devices which are running at 6 amps on the circuit you want to use (you would have to figure out and calculate each device’s power requirements on that circuit if you want to be extra precise), then the ceramic space heater should use no more than 9 amps since 6 amps + 9 amps = 15 amps (and preferably less to be conservative).  If more than 15 amps is drawn, then the fuse will blow.  We just purchased a small electric space heater for our Scamp and calculated its current draws at medium (600W / 110v = 5.5 amps) and high heat settings (1200W / 110v = 10.9 amps).  We haven’t calculated all the devices’ power requirements on each circuit, but are comfortable we should be ok using the heater on the medium setting since the draw is only 5.5 amps (we wouldn’t risk using the high heat setting as just this heater alone is getting close to 15 amps and there could be other devices on the circuit we plug the heater into).  Alternatively, we could plug the heater straight into our Jackery 500 and run it on medium heat setting for about 50 minutes (518Wh/600W) or on the high heat setting for approximately 25 minutes (518Wh/1200W).  As you can see from this example, the ceramic heater draws too much power to run it for hours off a small portable auxiliary battery power bank.  In turn, it would be best to run this heater off of hookups at the campground or using the trailer’s propane powered furnace when off grid.

Some great electrical accessories to have in your small travel trailer are a good surge protector, a big box of fuses (in case you blow one), an electrical tester, and a solar panel.

  1. Good surge protector: It is common to hear stories about bad wiring at campgrounds.  And, plugging your travel trailer directly into a bad circuit or getting a power surge could cause damage to your trailer’s electrical system and appliances.  To avoid the risk, it’s best to use a good surge protector every time you plug in your trailer.  We have used the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X for almost a year and have had a really good experience with it.  The scrolling digital display shows if there are any errors with the campground wiring and provides peace of mind that the power is clean.  It has a weather shield and a secure locking bracket to prevent theft.

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  1. Big box of auto fuses: It would be extremely annoying if an entire trip was ruined because no lights and other devices worked as a result of a blown eight cent fuse!  We purchased this 120 fuse set on Amazon (make sure to check your small travel trailer accepts standard-sized auto fuses) and we store it under one of our kitchen dinette benches in our Scamp.  Alternatively, there are also super cool GLOW fuses that glow when they are blown (but expect to pay more for these)!

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CLICK HERE TO BUY THE GLOW FUSES (50 pack)!

CLICK HERE TO BUY THE GLOW FUSES (10 pack)

  1. Electrical Tester: a digital multimeter is a great tool to check electrical continuity (such as seeing if a fuse is blown it’s not visible) or checking if power is coming out of the solar panel cables.

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  1. Solar Panel: a 100W solar panel is a great option to help recharge your small travel trailer batteries daily when camping without hookups.  We’ve found our solar panel can maintain our Scamp’s battery at 12.5V (a good place) for days on end as long as the sun shines. The solar panel may also be used to recharge your independent power bank.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. I’m not an electrician or electrical engineer, so I just write about the basics above based on our experiences with our Scamp 13’ travel trailer.  Please consult a professional if you need expert help.

Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

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Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

One key consideration when selecting a small travel trailer is bed configuration.  Will the bed be the right size for two people?  Can I leave the bed down all the time and still use the kitchen table?  How easy is it to convert the bed into the dinette in the morning and back again into the bed in the evening?  These questions are often key variables when considering choices of small travel trailers.

Health experts typically recommend between 7 and 9 hours of sleep per night for adults.  So, if a person usually sleeps about 8 hours per night, they spend 1/3 of each day sleeping!  That’s a lot of time!  In turn, it’s really important to seriously consider sleep when deciding on a trailer brand and configuration.  With the smallest travel trailers (around 13’ in length), there usually is a compromise in order to get both a nice sized bed and dinette.  This compromise is the necessity to convert the bed to the dinette every morning (and back to the bed in the evening).  This is the case for our Scamp 13’, which has a very roomy full-sized bed for two people (54” wide x 76” long) and, after conversion, a generously roomy kitchen table for four people.  For many, the perceived time and effort it takes to make this daily conversion is a deal breaker.  Often, the solution for those not wanting to undertake these daily conversions twice a day is to buy a larger trailer with a bed which can be left down all the time.  For example, the Scamp 16’ allows for a side two-person dinette (offering the possibility for the bed to always be left down).  In this case, no daily conversion is necessary (however, if the bed is left down, the usable dinette table in the Scamp 16’ is much smaller than that in the Scamp 13’).

After deciding on a Scamp small travel trailer (see our article on Ordering our 2020 Scamp), we needed to choose between the 13’ and 16’ models.  While both allow for the low cost $10 every 5 years California PTI registration (available for small trailers 16’ or less), the Scamp 13’ fits in our garage better, is a bit lighter (up to 800 lbs lighter than the Scamp 16″ Standard according to Scamp!), and has the wider 54” bed option not available on the Scamp 16’ Standard.  We didn’t think sleeping on a 43” wide bed would be as comfortable for two people.  So, with that, our decision was made and we were committed to undertaking the twice a day dinette-bed conversion when travelling in our Scamp 13’.  We just hoped it was not going to be a real pain and get to be too much after a while.

In the end, undertaking the daily dinette-bed conversion was just not that big a deal.  Perhaps it’s because we only travel every month or so (up to 10 days at a time) and aren’t living in our Scamp 13’ full time.  However, it seems not much different than making our bed every day at home.  The actual conversion of flipping up the table arm, lowering the table into the bed position, and sliding the cushions over the tables is ridiculously easy (and similar for the reverse procedure).  Laying out the memory foam mattress topper and sleeping bag takes a little more time.  But, overall, the entire process is very doable and we are happy we chose the Scamp 13’.  If we were living in the Scamp full time, then it probably would be nice to have the bed down all the time.  If I were a solo traveler, I would likely order the Scamp 13’ with bigger 54” bed and implement a table modification to allow for a hybrid bed-table setup – so the bed can always be left down and still allow for a table (similar to the great approach presented in this discussion here).

In order to see how much time it actually takes one person to make the dinette-bed conversion, we made the above video and timed it.  In both cases of conversion (dinette to bed and bed to dinette), the time it took one person is less than three minutes.  So, if spending 6 minutes or less per day on making / unmaking your bed is reasonable and you don’t mind getting a little bit of exercise, choosing a smaller trailer (such as the Scamp 13’) could actually end up giving you more room for your dinette and bed than if you chose a slightly larger model trailer with a dedicated bed.  Additionally, you might also find you are getting into more campgrounds as a result of your smaller size (secret)!

Update:
We are still going strong in our 2020 Scamp 13′ after over four years (35 trips, 125 locations, and 226 nights) and are happy with choosing this model despite the bed conversion.  We stopped using a bed topper as the softer foam cushions make sleeping much more comfortable than the much firmer factory ones.  We also made the daily bed conversion easier by replacing the particle board on the dinette table with lightweight plywood.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

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How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

I had no absolutely no experience towing a small travel trailer when our Scamp 13’ was dropped off at our home by the factory delivery driver.  After a quick review of some of the Scamp’s features and signing the paperwork (and handing over a check), the driver left and the Scamp was now in our garage ready to be taken on adventures.

I really liked the idea of all the possible trips we could take by having a small travel trailer and the probable fun we would have.  Small travel trailers are a golden ticket into places most cannot spend the night (at least not comfortably), like State and National Parks.  In the past, we would stay at a hotel if we wanted to visit scenic outdoor locations.  And, hotels at these types of places are typically not cheap!  In contrast, most nightly campground rates at State and National Parks are generally very reasonable (often less than $40 / night).  For example, a full hookup spot (meaning electricity, water, and sewer are provided at your campsite) at Furnace Creek Campground in Death Valley National Park is currently only $36 / night.  In comparison, a room at the Inn At Death Valley starts at around $350 / night in January.  In addition, you can prepare all your meals in your small travel trailer, but would likely have a much higher meal cost at the hotel.

Given all the positives, we decided we would just have to learn how to tow the small travel trailer and hoped it wouldn’t be that difficult.  The first challenge came up pretty soon after delivery.  In order to register the trailer, we needed to tow it to the local AAA as an in-person inspection is required!  With no prior experience, and after a bit of research, we hooked up our Scamp and drove it to AAA.  It actually was a very easy first drive experience.  The Scamp just follows the tow vehicle and, unless you make sharp turns, change lanes too fast, or go over bumps too quickly, it really isn’t a big deal to tow.  It is important to allow for wide turns so the trailer following you can clear whatever you are turning around.  The only stress initially was changing lanes, but even that has now become as easy as driving without the Scamp attached.  You just have to take it slowly and make extra sure the lane is clear before you change lanes.

Advanced research and preparation seem to be the keys for first time towing success.  Just like studying for a test, if you prepare in advance you will stand a higher chance for a positive outcome.  First, it’s important you select the right tow vehicle before you buy your small travel trailer.  Although I did chat with someone who told me he tows his Scamp 13’ travel trailer with a Toyota Prius, I wouldn’t recommend that for anyone.  Instead, choose a vehicle that is rated to tow (meaning the transmission and brakes, etc. were designed for towing) and can easily handle the weight of your trailer as well as the hitch (tongue) weight your small travel trailer puts on your tow vehicle’s hitch ball (to be conservative, having at least 30% more vehicle capacity than the weight and tongue weight of the trailer may be a good starting point).  In most cases, a decently powered SUV will do the job for towing a small travel trailer (but check the specs on your trailer and desired tow vehicle).   In our case, we chose the Volvo XC40 with the T5 AWD engine and factory installed tow package (248 hp, tow rating = 3,500 lbs if trailer has brakes / tongue weight rating = 350 lbs).  Scamp lists the approximate weight of the standard 13’ model between 1200 and 1500 lbs. and the tongue weight at 100 lbs.  So, in this case, the Volvo XC40 is easily rated to tow the Scamp.  The extra tow and tongue capacity allows for potentially higher weights due to carrying gear in the Scamp as well as provides power for steep mountain passes.  The tow vehicle should be ordered with a factory tow package if available and the small travel trailer should be ordered with electronic brakes.

We have found the Volvo XC40 to be an exceptional tow vehicle in many ways.  First, since it’s only a four cylinder turbo, it gets relatively good gas mileage — we routinely get 20MPG when towing.  It also feels incredibly stable to drive and the weight of our Scamp 13’ is not noticeable (even going up steep grades).  And, since it is all wheel drive (AWD), it always feels sure footed even on the bumpy sloped dirt surfaces one is likely to encounter at some campgrounds.  We picked up the vehicle in Sweden through Volvo’s Oversees Delivery Program (which is a fantastic experience in itself).  This allowed us to drive the car around Sweden for a couple of weeks and get to know the vehicle and the country.

Once you have your very capable tow vehicle, it is time to order a capable hitch to plug into your vehicle’s hitch receptacle.  We purchased this heavy duty hitch (2 x 2” shank with 2” ball) which is rated to tow 7,500lbs gross trailer weight and 750lbs tongue weight!  So, this hitch can easily accommodate a 13’ Scamp weighing 1,500lbs with a 100lb tongue weight!  It has a 2” drop, but can also be flipped to give a ¾” rise (note: it’s best to go to an automotive shop that uses pneumatic tools to properly torque the nut if it’s flipped).  We started with the 2” drop, but found that the Scamp 13’ was not level with our tow vehicle (slight drop in center, see images) which resulted in the tongue jack plate sometimes scraping driveways and noisy towing (hitch ball rattling).  Once we flipped the hitch, the trailer became level with our tow vehicle resulting in no more scraping and a smoother quieter towing experience!

Having both a capable tow vehicle and hitch set up will mean that you are much less likely to encounter towing problems on the road.  Of course, it’s always important to plug in your trailer to the tow vehicle so your trailer’s lights and emergency brakes are communicating with the tow vehicle (and check the trailer lights before leaving).  In addition, it’s imperative that safety chains be used whenever towing (see images).  Getting the ball on your tow vehicle properly aligned with your trailer coupler takes some practice, but gets easier with experience.  I taped a ribbon on the tow coupler so it hangs straight down – this lets me see the ball hit the ribbon, which indicates just an inch or so more and the tow coupler is right over the ball.  The step of locking the coupler onto the ball is critical.  After locking, I recommend pulling up on the travel trailer coupler a couple times to watch the tow vehicle rear end go up and down to make sure the ball is really securely locked into place in the coupler (none or barely any of the bottom of the ball should be visible if looking at it from the side).  In addition, I recommend using a coupler lock, not only as a theft security device, but also to help prevent the coupler latch from popping open while driving.  I also like to use a hitch lock to securely hold the hitch in place and prevent someone from walking off with it.

The hardest thing about towing a small travel trailer isn’t the towing.  I’ve found the biggest challenge is backing up the small travel trailer so that it goes where you want it to.  In this regard, it’s always good to have a helper if available so they can stand outside the vehicle and direct you (either with walkie talkies, cell phones, or shouting).  Our Scamp 13’ is very responsive when backing up and it takes practice getting comfortable to what type of wheel movements are required to control the trailer.  One trick that really helps when backing up is to hold the steering wheel at the bottom and then turn it in the direction you want the trailer to travel.  Don’t let the trailer go anywhere close to a 90 degree position with the tow vehicle when backing up as this can cause damage.  It’s always better to take your time and straighten out as many times as you need to get your approach angle right.  After a few trips, you will find backing up to be pretty easy.  Note:  I no longer use our trailer dolly in our garage because I’m used to backing our Scamp into the exact position I want in tight spaces (and you will be too after some experience).

In summary, I’m really glad we decided to purchase the Scamp 13’ even though we lacked towing experience and had concerns about the possible challenges of towing.  Ultimately, towing a small travel trailer turns out not to be such a big deal.  Towing your small travel trailer should be easy as long as you are prepared and get the proper tow vehicle and equipment (and follow checklists when leaving).  If you do this, towing your small travel trailer will not be that much more difficult than driving your car.  Initially, it may be stressful, but after towing for a trip or two you will be glad you made the purchase and likely will enjoy your trailer and all the experiences it will offer for many years to come.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.