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scamp 13

How to Stop Your MaxxFan From Beeping & Shutting Down When Using Solar Power

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How to Stop Your MaxxFan From Beeping & Shutting Down When Using Solar Power

Our 2020 Scamp 13’ was delivered from the Scamp factory with a Maxxair MaxxFan, an incredible fan which can either blow or suck air into the trailer (depending on the setting).  Since we don’t have air conditioning in our camper and use it off grid quite a bit, we really depend on this fan to keep us cool during warm weather (as well as blowing out smoke when cooking and also clearing humidity from the trailer when showering and sleeping to prevent detector alarms).

We soon discovered that our MaxxFan doesn’t like voltage variations beyond 12 volts.  When boondocking (without shore power), we usually use our solar panel briefcase to provide power to our Scamp 13’.  Voltage in our trailer can vary quite a bit when on solar power and is usually higher than 12V, sometimes reaching just over 15 volts (based on our internal voltmeter).  It’s common for our MaxxFan to complain (beep and stop) when we are running solar.  It especially doesn’t like it when our Scamp 13’ is running on solar and simultaneously running another appliance (like a water pump to provide water pressure to our sink when boondocking).  It generally will beep and stop in this situation.  We’ve learned that we can often keep it running as long as we don’t exceed the 30% speed setting.  On one occasion, our fan stopped altogether and wouldn’t restart.  To get it to run again, we had to pull the fuse (fuse labeled “rear of trailer”) to reset the fan.  Ughh!

It was warm on our recent trip to Big Bear Lake and we really wanted to use our fan at a high speed setting, but it wouldn’t cooperate.  Our MaxxFan just kept turning off when turned up higher than 30%.  With our solar panels soaking up the bright mountain sunlight at Big Bear, the voltage coming into the trailer reached 15.6 volts.  At this point, we needed a better solution.  Upon doing considerable research, we found that, indeed, voltage intolerance is a known problem for MaxxFans.  When the voltage is too low or too high the fan will often beep and stop.  It seems this fan has “Goldilocks Syndrome” as the voltage has to be “just right”.  A call to MaxxAir, maker of the MaxxFan, confirmed that there have been considerable issues with voltage affecting fan operation which have prompted the company to update the motherboard to accept voltages up to 15 volts.  The MaxxFan tech I spoke to said the motherboard used to have a voltage range between 10.8 volts – 13.8 volts (our model), but once more people started using solar panels and lithium batteries (leading to higher voltages within their rvs) the company came out with a new motherboard (sometime after 2020) to accept a wider voltage range (10.3 volts – 15 volts).  The tech told me that even with the new motherboard, the fan will still have problems with voltages outside the new voltage range.  Although some people have gone as far as replacing their motherboards in the hope that the more recent circuit boards will fix this issue, others have taken matters into their own hands by implementing other solutions.  The simple and inexpensive solution we implemented was to install a voltage regulator between the trailer power leads and the fan (the MaxxFan tech agreed with us that this is a good solution).  The voltage regulator we chose accepts 9V – 36V input (a much higher range than the new MaxxFan mother board accepts) and puts out a consistent 12 volts, and is rated waterproof, dust-proof, moisture-proof and shock-proof (and currently sells new on Amazon for less than $15!).  It’s also really small and fits nicely in the MaxxFan housing.  So overall, the nice thing about this solution is that it’s inexpensive and addresses both very low and high voltages.

The installation of the voltage regulator inside the MaxxFan is fairly simple and just about anyone should be able to do it in less than an hour with the right supplies and tools.  A significant point to note is that it is very important to figure out the polarities of all the wires before connecting them because some trailers (and even the MaxxFan itself) have some strange things going on with polarity.  Specifically, for example, our Scamp trailer has a positive black wire and negative white wire providing power to the fan.  Additionally, MaxxFan also wires their fan this way with the black wire being positive.  This wiring convention is contrary to what most people learn, being that black is usually negative and red is positive.

A voltmeter is a good simple way to determine polarity (set your voltmeter on DC V and use the black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the other colored wire – if the voltage shows a positive number, then the black wire is negative polarity, if it shows a negative number, then black is positive polarity).  On our installation, we determined that our Scamp 13’ black wire is actually positive and the white wire is negative. These are the wires that provide power to the fan and attach to the input side of the voltage regulator.   On our voltage regulator, the input and output polarities are clearly labeled (with black being negative and red/yellow positive).  The MaxxFan wiring polarity matches our Scamp trailer with black being positive and white negative.

Project Supplies and Tools:

  1. MaxxFan
  2. 12V DC Voltage Regulator
  3. Voltmeter
  4. Wago wire connectors
  5. Scotch Fastener Tape
  6. Gorilla Tape
  7. Braided copper wire (AWG 14)
  8. Robertson Square #2 Screwdriver or
    1. Electric screw driver which accepts ¼” bits
    2. Robertson Square #2 bits 
  9. Wire cutters
  10. Wire stripper

Here are the Project Steps I took to install the 12V voltage regulator in the MaxxFan (also, reference video).

Project Steps:

  1. SAFETY: I made sure my Scamp 13’ was parked on a flat level surface (my garage), the tongue jack was stable, and I used heavy duty wheel chocks to prevent the trailer from rolling.  I also wore safety glasses to help prevent anything from getting into my eyes while working.  I made sure there was no power to the fan while working on it (by pulling fuse).
  2. Cut power to fan by removing fuse powering fan (fan won’t turn on after fuse is removed)
  3. Take off the fan screen by rotating the holders
  4. Remove the bezel/trim using the Robertson Square #2 Driver.
  5. Remove fan with Phillips head screwdriver (including screw on black manual fan knob).
  6. Unclip zip tie on the fan holding wires together
  7. Remove a bit more plastic sheath on each of the wires coming out each side of the voltage regulator to allow for more exposed copper to plug into the Wago connectors.
  8. Apply scotch Velcro tape (two sides) to the backside of the voltage regulator.
  9. Tape the voltage regulator into one corner of the inner casing of the fan.
  10. Cut trailer power wires attached to fan and test their polarity.
  11. Attach Wago connectors to the end of the trailer power wires as well as the voltage regulator wires and fan power wires.
  12. Create wire extensions and once polarities are identified, connect the trailer power wires to the voltage regulator and the voltage regulator wires to the fan (all using Wago connectors).
  13. Plug in fuse and test fan to ensure it works.
  14. Carefully insert wiring back into fan (using zip ties and Gorilla tape to secure loose wires)
  15. Screw fan back into place using a Phillips head screwdriver.
  16. Reattach bezel/trim using Robertson Square #2 Driver (and notch out bezel if necessary)
  17. Clean fan screen.
  18. Reinstall fan screen.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Joshua Tree National Park – Ryan Campground

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Joshua Tree National Park – Ryan Campground
February 13th – 15th, 2023 (2 nights)

Joshua Tree National Park is a fantastic place in the high desert to visit in the winter, spring, and fall (too hot in the summer).  The Joshua trees (not really trees but succulents), unusual rock formations, hiking, rock climbing and dark night skies are the main draws.  The best reason for staying overnight in the park is because once the sun sets, the daytime crowds go, leaving quiet peacefulness.  And, the stars are so bright here; it’s the perfect place for stargazing (away from all the city lights).  It’s also not too far a drive for us from San Diego, making it a fantastic mid-week break for rest and solitude.  We chose to visit Ryan Campground (one of many campgrounds inside the park) because it is small and away from the busier tourist areas.  We purchased an annual park pass (America The Beautiful Pass, $80) when we visited Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks in September, so we avoided the $30 entrance fee.

Located at an elevation of around 4,400 ft., Ryan Campground has only 31 campsites @$20/night (reservation only) and is centrally located within the national park.  There are also 4 equestrian sites ($15/night) and 3 bicycle sites ($5/night, first come first served).  There is no running water at the campground and only pit toilets.  There is no cellphone reception here, so if you want to be connected bring your Starlink (or be prepared to drive about 10 minutes back toward the entrance where the hilltop overlooks the valley below).  There are some nice hikes from within the campground and exhibits within a close drive.  On our first day, after setting up our Scamp 13’ in campsite #5 (a nice one) and having lunch, we hiked from the campground to Ryan Ranch and then onto Lost Horse Well.  It’s a short hike (only .3 miles) to the decaying adobe walls of the ranch house and bunk house (circa 1896).  Lost Horse Well is just a little farther.  We also walked part of the Geology Tour Rd. trail from the campground (6.6 miles).  Although we didn’t see any Bighorn Sheep (which are known to be in the area,  we did see a number of strikingly beautiful bluebirds (bright sky blue color) called Mountain Bluebirds.   After hiking, we drove to Keys View — a short drive up to the top of a crest of the Little San Bernardino Mountains.  There are benches at the top and panoramic views of the Coachella Valley below– including the Salton Sea, Santa Rosa Mountains, 10,800 peak of San Jacinto Peak (behind Palm Springs), and the snow-covered peak of 11,500 San Gorgonio Mountain.  The San Andreas Fault can be seen below along the eastern part of the Coachella Valley with its jagged slabs of rock and other geological anomalies.

The wind started kicking up strongly on our first night with 20 to 30 mph winds with gusts up to 60 mph.  We had received a Severe Weather Advisory email from recreation.gov when driving into the park without further details (and we didn’t have internet access to research what was coming our way once we arrived at the campground).   Tent campers were having a rough time with their tents sometimes folding up in the wind; many of these campers slept in their cars for shelter.  One man, who is travelling the country by bike, told me he was almost swept off his feet when trying to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night.  Since campgrounds here have no water, we arrived with our Scamp 13’s fresh tank full (giving us some extra ballast).  Our rear stabilizers were down which also helped weather the gusts.  We were unhitched, but the Scamp handled the strong wind well (with only occasional shaking, despite the wind hitting the Scamp directly on its side – the Scamp’s aerodynamic shape likely helped).  The wind was so loud that, despite wearing earplugs and playing white noise, it was difficult to sleep (it sounded like we were on a boat in a fierce storm at sea).  Meanwhile, temperatures dropped into the 20’s and we cranked up our Scamp’s furnace to stay toasty.

The wind continued to blow hard the next day.  It was sunny, but cool and windy.  We bundled up in our down jackets with wind breakers over them.  We drove to the visitor’s center (about 30 minutes) to see their exhibits and souvenirs and also spent some time on our phones (since we had cellphone reception here).  On the way back to Ryan Campground, we stopped at numerous outdoor exhibits and trails which included Cap Rock & Intersection Rock (including .3 mile nature loop) and Creosote Trail.  We also stopped at some popular rock climbing spots.  Some of the names of these rocks are interesting:  Hemingway Buttress, Banana Cracks, Heart of Darkness, Target Rock, The Oyster Bar, Split Personality Rock, Agent Orange, East Wall Hall of Horrors, Exorcist, Diamond Dogs, and Nurn’s Romp.  We tried to visually connect the names of the rocks with the rock shapes, but they didn’t really match.  We guess the rock names are more aligned with the climbing experiences rather than the rocks’ appearances.  The most epic experience though, was walking along desert trails filled with Joshua trees (sights that cannot be matched anywhere else).  The trees, actually a type of Yucca, were, according to legend, named by Mormon immigrants crossing through the desert in the 1850s.  They saw the gnarled outstretched limbs of the trees as reaching their hands up to the sky in prayer (and/or pointing toward the Promised Land) and, so, named them after the biblical figure Joshua.

The wind calmed a bit in the evening of our last night, only to pave the way for an unexpected snowstorm!  Click here for a short video of the snowstorm at our campsite.  Yes, it was actually snowing!  We sure were glad to have two filled propane tanks on board (although we only used a small fraction of one) so we could run our heater all night.  We were very comfortable inside the warm cozy interior of the Scamp (watching movies and playing Sequence and Backgammon games). Looking out the Scamp’s panoramic windows watching the snow blanket the desert floor was a mesmerizing site.  Equally as captivating, was watching the tent campers scrambling to their cars for supplies during the blizzard.  It was difficult to imagine how they were able to bundle up enough in the cold to sleep in their tents (most likely didn’t have propane heaters and we witnessed some sleeping in their cars).  We heard some scary stories the following morning from tent campers who battled extreme cold during the night (temps in the teens).  People also exchanged hot food and hot drinks the morning after the snowstorm.

Our last morning at Ryan Campground was calm with blue skies (temperatures in the 20’s).  We had a chance to take a nice early morning hike (Keys View Rd trail) from the campground (around a two mile round trip flat desert walk) before heading home.  Because we plan to come back, we made note of a number of ranger programs which look interesting–including, Keys Ranch Tour  ($10 for adults, reservations the day before), All About Joshua Trees, and the Evening Program.  Although we experienced a wild weather ride on this trip, it was really exciting and satisfying.  It was great to see how our Scamp 13’ pushed through the challenges with flying colors.  And, these experiences will no doubt elevate our game for future trips.  Speaking of future trips, our next planned trip is back here next month at Jumbo Rocks Campground!  Stay tuned!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Temecula

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Temecula
January 27th – 29th, 2023 (2 nights)

Temecula is a wine and olive tree growing region about an hour northeast of San Diego.  It gets really hot here in the summer, but is the perfect winter location to hike and go on wine and olive oil tasting tours.  It’s a great destination for a long weekend coming from Los Angeles or San Diego.  We made our trip plans last minute, so we couldn’t make an online reservation at Dripping Springs Campground (about a 20 minute drive from Old Town Temecula); reservations for the campsites are blocked four days before each date. However, we decided we would risk it and show up before noon on Friday and see if we could get a spot.  The process of getting a campsite in person is easy.  Just drive into the campground and find an open campsite and park.  We really wanted campsite #10 (a normally first come first served campsite anyway) because it is at the farthest end of the campground right near the hiking trails.  We arrived at Dripping Springs Campground around 11:30 a.m. after a short drive from Carlsbad and drove straight back to campsite #10.  It turned out to be open and we parked!  After parking, campers have thirty minutes to get a pay envelope and fill out their vehicle information and campsite number, put money (cash or check) in the envelope ($15/night for trailers), and deposit the envelope in the iron ranger drop box (located next to the host trailer at the campground entrance).

After setting up our Scamp 13’ and having lunch, we drove to Old Town Temecula to explore.  Along the way, we stopped off at the Olive Plantation, a family owned and run small olive oil farm.  The sign said tours are available on weekends, but, being a Friday, we were lucky when the owner saw us in the driveway and opened the gate!  She gave us a private tour and tasting.  Of course, they also sell olive oil, and we purchased a $25 bottle of one of their first pressings.  Although small, this olive oil farm has won global awards for the quality of their oil.  After our tour, we continued toward Old Temecula.  Many of the buildings here went up around 1883, when the Southern California Railroad brought travelers and commerce to the Temecula Valley.  Some of these old structures still stand, but have been converted to shops, restaurants, and bars.  We strolled down the main street of Old Town and also walked up and down the side streets.  There are antique shops, places to eat, an olive oil tasting room (Temecula Olive Oil Company), and even a community theater.  We spent a couple of hours wandering and then were ready to retreat to the quiet solitude of Dripping Springs Campground to relax.

Dripping Springs Campground, located in the Cleveland National Forest, is a small but very beautiful campground run by the US Forest Service / USDA (U.S. Dept. of Agriculture).   Sitting in a canyon nestled between mountains and adjacent to the Agua Tibia Wilderness, the campground has a creek that runs alongside and a number of very popular hiking and horseback riding trails.    This is also the home of the two inch arroyo toad (a species of toad endemic to California and Baja California, Mexico) whose picture is featured on a sign next to the creek.  The campground has 34 single campsites, 9 equestrian sites (although we saw tent campers using these sites), 2 horse corrals, potable water, and vault toilets.  The best sites are the ones on the farthest end, closest to the trailhead and creek (the host said if you can fit into it, including tent only sites, you can take it!).  We really enjoyed the peacefulness of site #10, which is adjacent to the creek.  We could only get Verizon cell reception at the entrance to the campground.  We downloaded movies onto our laptop at home, so we were able to enjoy cinema in our Scamp in the evenings!

We scheduled an olive oil farm tour at the Temecula Olive Oil Company for Saturday; eight minutes south of our campsite in Aguanga.  We also invited our friends Colleen and Perry (travelling from Canada and who happened to be staying at an RV park in the area for a couple of weeks).  We met at the farm at 10 a.m. and had a really interesting tour which lasted until noon.  The farm owners and tour leaders (a married couple) began their careers with extensive experience in the wine industry and worked in various roles for large corporations.  They then switched their focus to olive oil and have worked their farm for the past twenty years.  During the tour, we were given an inside look at what it takes to grow olive trees and mill olive oil, as well as told personal stories of the owners’ lives and how they came to establish the Temecula Olive Oil Company.  We sampled over ten varieties of their oil and vinegars while listening to the farm and family’s history.  With our bellies full of high quality olive oils and our minds full of olive jokes (yes, olive ‘em)…, we walked the grounds and saw some of their animals (including their pigs) before enjoying a great picnic lunch next to the magnificent olive grove.

We had two beautiful clear sunny January days during our Temecula visit, with rain approaching on Sunday.  So, we did what any meandering Scamp nomad does when foul weather approaches: we cranked up our stabilizers, hitched up, and headed out!

Replacing the RV Door Lock on a 2020 Scamp 13’

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Replacing the RV Door Lock on a 2020 Scamp 13’

Our 2020 Scamp 13’ was delivered from the Scamp factory with the Global Link RV Entry Door Lock which is commonly used across many travel trailer brands.  This lock serves to secure the trailer’s door by providing two locking cylinders (the main cylinder and a dead bolt) within the latch.  Typically, if the door latch does its job then one doesn’t really think about it.  But, for our Scamp, this wasn’t the case.  The original lock was not only very difficult to lock and unlock, but also sometimes wouldn’t unlock (from both the outside and inside of the trailer).  On one of our first trips with our Scamp, we found ourselves locked inside the trailer subject to a lock that wouldn’t open regardless of the inside lock positions.  We ended up having to remove the lock and reinstall it (which seemed to work for a while).  Eventually, on another trip, the end of the key snapped off inside the lock when attempting to lock the deadbolt from the outside of the trailer.  Since our trailer was under the first year warranty, Scamp replaced the lock without charge.

The replacement lock we received wasn’t much better than the first one.  This second door latch was always very difficult to open and lock, and, similar to the first one, presented a lot of resistance when engaging the deadbolt.  We learned to live with it and were always very careful when turning the key when locking and unlocking the deadbolt.  The lock was always a source of concern whenever using it; we always wondered when it would fail next.  A couple of years later, the key snapped inside the lock when we were on a trip at Sequoia National Park.  Fortunately, we were able to still lock and unlock the deadbolt with just the remaining part of the key (with more than half the key still broken and stuck inside the lock) for the rest of our trip!  Not wanting to try a third example of this same lock (“fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me”), we began searching for a lock replacement as soon as we arrived home.  We originally liked the idea of a keyless entry lock as it would be great not having to deal with keys.  We looked closely at this lock as well as another one.

However, because the 2020 Scamp 13’ door is designed with a small recessed fiberglass space for the door lock, none of the keyless entry systems we could find would fit (because of their extra wide design which accommodates the numbered buttons).  So, we concentrated on finding a lock design that would match the original lock’s physical specifications so it would fit inside the hole in our Scamp’s door.

There are numerous locks available which look virtually identical to the original Global Link RV Lock which was installed on our Scamp by the factory.  However, not all locks that match our physical specifications for the lock cutout are:  highly reviewed, comprised of 100% metal (some have plastic parts), and have unique laser cut keys.  We chose this lock by Welluck because it meets the above criteria.  Additionally, it is waterproof and comes with 4 laser cut keys (cut on the inside for enhanced security).  The company states that each key set is unique (although we haven’t been able to confirm this).  Lastly, we really like that the Welluck lock is offered in white, a very unique color among locks, and matches our white 2020 Scamp 13’.

If there is appropriate cut out space in the door, installation of this lock should be very easy (see video above).  Simply remove the existing lock by unscrewing the 4 bolts on the back plate, 2 door plate bolts, pull existing back plate, and then pull the front of the lock out from the front of the door.  Installation of the new lock is the reverse of the same procedure.  First, push the front of the new lock through the hole in the door front, screw in the side metal cylinder plate, and then align the hole for the deadbolt pin and position the handle slider mechanism forward and secure the back plate with the 4 bolts.  Check to see the proper operation of the handle/deadbolt and keys after installation.  After installation, we were pleased to find that this new lock is very sturdy and much smoother in function than our previous two manufacturer supplied locks!  And, the key to our hearts with locks is a key that works without struggle or hesitation!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Using a Rivet Gun to Mount a New Scamp LED Bathroom Light

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Using a Rivet Gun to Mount a New Scamp LED Bathroom Light

Warning:  always use eyewear protection when working with tools!

Having a bright LED light in the Scamp bathroom is great.  Our 2020 Scamp 13’ came with a large oval 12V light (about 6 inches long, 3.5 inches wide) by Dream Lighting.  The light is energy efficient (4.5 Watts), very bright (300 lumen) for the Scamp’s small bathroom and lightweight (less than 3 ounces).   LED lights are especially nice because they don’t require a lot of energy to run and they usually last a very long time.  That’s why when our bathroom LED light started malfunctioning (flickering, dim, only partially lighting), it was surprising.  Fortunately, this light is very inexpensive (currently $11 on Amazon) so replacing it seemed like the easiest thing to do (vs. trying to repair).  I did pop open the cover and flipped the switch a few times to see if it could be something obvious.  However, the problem wasn’t apparent and it could easily be a circuit board issue (as all the LEDs sometimes would occasionally light, but often very faintly).

Replacing the LED light with an identical light from one purchased on Amazon seemed like it would be super straightforward.  My thoughts were that I would just unscrew the existing bad light, remove the wire nuts from the black (positive) and white (negative) wires, and attach the new wire leads from the lamp to the Scamp wiring, and then screw the new one in.  However, as is often the case with travel trailers, things aren’t always as they seem.  Once I popped open the light’s opaque white plastic cover, I noticed some strange metal tubes coming out of each end of the lamps’ mounting holes.  I called Scamp and they explained that the LED lamp is riveted to the wall.  After they explained why Scamp uses rivets on their trailers, it made perfect sense.  Rivets don’t usually loosen with vibration (which happens to bolts when driving). They are also good for joining parts where there is little separation between them.  The downside is that installing them generally requires a special tool (rivet gun), some learning, and often a drill to drill out the existing rivet (if replacing something already riveted in place, like the old Scamp LED shower light).

Fortunately, rivet guns are relatively inexpensive and I thought that since so many things on the Scamp are riveted, it would be nice to have a rivet gun for potential future use (also, I don’t know anyone who has a rivet gun I can borrow!).  It’s not the most popular tool these days (unless you hang out with RV veterans who like working on their rigs).  After doing a little research, I discovered that rivets are pretty common in RVs, often used on aluminum siding, hinges, latches, and many things attached to the RV walls.  While working on this project, I took a close look at the outside of our Scamp and noticed many white plastic rivet caps!  So, it seems many items inside the Scamp are riveted in place from the outside of the trailer.

The rivet gun I ordered also comes with 200 aluminum rivets (50 of each of the four most common sizes) and four drill bits (used to drill out already mounted rivets).  The rivet gun has four different head attachments which accommodates each size rivet [3/32”(2.4mm), 1/8”(3.4mm), 5/32”(4.0mm), and 3/16”(4.8mm)].  I was told by Scamp that the bathroom LED light utilizes 3/16” (4.8mm) rivets which are also 9/16” long.  The first thing I did was remove the opaque white cover on the existing bad LED lamp, then I removed the two white plastic caps covering the rivet heads inside the upper cabinet on the opposite side of the wall of the shower, and I utilized the 3/16” drill bit to drill out the rivet heads (x2) (this size bit easily drills through the 3/16” rivet head).  I found the bit quickly cut through the rivet head with little effort (since they are aluminum) and the heads wound up on the bit.  When the second head was drilled off, the bad bathroom LED light came off the wall and dangled, supported by its wiring.

Removing the bad bathroom LED light was simple once it was off the wall.  I simply removed the two wire nuts (making sure not to let the white and black wires touch each other to avoid a short circuit).  Before installing the new LED light, it was easy to test it by connecting it to the two wires (white to white and black to black).  After verifying the new LED light worked well, I removed it and took it to the work bench.  The two plastic mounting holes on each end needed to be slightly drilled out (they are a little too small in diameter for the 3/16’ to fit through).  I first removed the white opaque LED light cover so I wouldn’t accidently drill through it from behind.  Then, I used the same 3/16” drill bit I used to drill out the old rivet heads and I drilled out the two holes from the back of the LED light so the 3/16” rivets were able to fit through the holes (the long rod, or mandrel, goes into the rivet gun and then other end of the rivet goes through the cabinet wall and then through the back of the LED bathroom light holes).

Everything seemed to be going very smoothly.  I even tested a sample 3/16” rivet on the bad LED light (I had to drill out the plastic hole like on the new one).  To operate the gun, just place the long metal rod (mandrel) into the front of the rivet gun, put the rivet through the items that you want to join, and then squeeze the trigger multiple times until the rod breaks off (it takes some strength) (watch my attached video).  When squeezing the trigger, the head of the rivet compresses the rivet’s body (shortening and widening it) and pulls tightly together the two items being joined.  It’s here that I encountered an issue.  The 3/16” (4.8mm) diameter rivets I was using, which came with the rivet gun, were too short!  They didn’t have enough length to go all the way through the shower wall and plastic LED light mounting holes.  I reviewed my notes and found that Scamp mentioned that the length of the rivets they use for the LED shower light are 9/16”.  The ones that came with the rivet gun are the same diameter, 3/16”(4.8mm), but only 5/16”long, not counting the rivet head.  And, they would be even shorter once compressed by the rivet gun.

I couldn’t find 3/16”(4.8mm) rivets with 9/16” length on Amazon, so I ordered ones advertised as 3/16” x 5/8”since 5/8” or 10/16” is very close.  They showed up the next day (got to love Amazon!) but things were not as they seemed!  The rivet body on the new ones looked really long and I measured them to be 13/16” long!  The label on the package was clearly printed showing 3/16” x 5/8”.  Dumfounded, I searched online and found that the first measurement of the listed rivet size is the diameter (which is what I expected), but the second measurement is the “maximum grip range” and not the rivet length (despite what some of the Amazon sellers show on their charts).

The story thickens.  As it turns out, the “grip range” is the range of thicknesses that the rivet can hold together once it is compacted by a rivet gun.  For example, if one is riveting two pieces of material together and the two pieces together will be 5/16” thick then you will need a rivet with a grip range that covers that thickness. A rivet with a grip range of 4/16” – 6/16” would be a match since 5/16” thickness falls in the middle of the range.  A rivet with a smaller grip range would be too short to hold the pieces together and one with a larger grip range would hold the pieces together, but would be too loose (allowing separation of the parts).  The thickness of the materials for the LED bathroom light and Scamp wall is around 6/16” (I measured by inserting a wire rod through the cabinet wall hole and all the way through the thickness of the LED lamp as it was held against the shower wall.  I used a marker to mark the length of wire which I then measured with a ruler, see video).  Upon speaking to Scamp a second time, I was told that the industry number of the rivet they use for the LED bathroom light is a #6-6 rivet.  The first number is the diameter in 32nds – so, 6 is equal to 6/32” or 3/16” diameter.  The second number refers to the maximum grip length in 16ths – so 6 is equal to 6/16”.  This is the maximum length to which the rivet body will compress.  So, the #6-6 rivet Scamp uses has a maximum grip length of 6/16” which will accommodate the thickness of the LED shower light materials I estimated at 6/16”.  So, it would make sense then that the first rivets I ordered on Amazon which had a maximum grip range of 5/8” (or 10/16”) would have been too long for the thickness of the materials (around 6/16” thick) and the LED bathroom light would probably have just dangled from the wall if those were used.  I ordered the #6-6 rivets and they worked perfectly — just the right size to hold the LED bathroom light tightly against the bathroom wall.

The hardest part of a rivet project is figuring out the correct size of rivets to use.  Once that is known, then actually using the rivet gun and attaching the rivets is very easy.  I positioned the LED bathroom light wiring behind the light so that the wiring nuts were tucked inside the recessed area in order to get the light body to sit flatly against the wall.  Then, I inserted each rivet into the hole, squeezed the handle on the rivet gun several times until the mandrel fell off, and that was it!  The LED bathroom light attached really tightly against the shower wall!  Of course, there are many other items in the Scamp 13’ that use rivets, and armed with this new knowledge and a new rivet gun, we look forward to the next riveting project!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Southern Arizona Fall 2022

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Southern Arizona Fall 2022
November 13th – 22nd, 2022 (9 nights)

Late fall and winter bring cool temperatures to most U.S. locations, prompting many campers to place their travel trailers into storage until spring.  However, southern Arizona’s weather is very welcoming during this period (usually 60’s-70’s during the day and cool nights) and, in turn, lots of snowbirds flock here for the pleasant temperatures.  We wanted to capture the best weather southern Arizona has to offer, so we planned a trip along its southern border.  We chose six locations across the state and kept most drive times to three hours or less.  Our longest drive was from our home in Carlsbad, California (San Diego county) to our first campground, Painted Rock Petroglyph Site Campground in Arizona (about 4 ½ hours).  We chose Painted Rock as our first stop because we needed to break up the drive and it sounded interesting.

Painted Rock Petroglyph Campground is about 1 ½ hours east of Yuma on the 8 Freeway.  There’s a gas station in Sentinel, AZ (they sell Middle of Nowhere t-shirts) about thirty minutes away from Painted Rock Campground, which is a good place to fill up before leaving the 8 and turning off at Painted Rock Road to the campground.  The campground is about 12 miles up Painted Rock Road (paved road, with a small gravel section at the very end) and is an easy drive.  There are no facilities here (no water, electric, or sewer/dump station), so come with your fresh tank full and black and grey tanks empty.  We received good Verizon cellular phone signal here at this very isolated and desolate location.  The fee at this BLM campground is $8 per night (payable to the “iron ranger”, metal box).  However, the fee is only $6/night with an “America the Beautiful Pass” and $4/night with the “Golden Age or Access passport”.  We paid $8 for the night despite having the “America the Beautiful Pass” because the discounts were only posted at the Day Use section of the campground!  So, most people driving in will pay $8/night since the discounts are not posted at the RV campground entrance.  We did save $8 by not making a reservation and avoiding the reservation fee.  We read in advance that the campground usually has a lot of empty sites and since we were going on Sunday afternoon we figured we wouldn’t have an issue getting a spot.  As it turned out, the campground was mostly vacant with only a handful of campers spread out over a very large area.  We chose site #27 which is a great open location.  There is a camp host here, but we only saw someone in the morning near the host trailer riding a tractor and playing with a dog.  We enjoyed the remoteness, quietness, and privacy at the campground, the stars at night, and walking around the volcanic stone mounds trying to decrypt the petroglyph symbols (ancient graffiti) displayed on the rocks.  This stay over was a perfect place to get a great night’s sleep and refresh before the drive to our next stop, Catalina State Park.

Catalina State Park is a two and a half hour drive from Painted Rock Petroglyph Campground and is located in the upscale community of Oro Valley (Valley of Gold), about fourteen miles north of Tucson.   The campground is at the foothills of the beautiful Santa Catalina Mountains and only a quick bike ride to the nice town of Oro Valley.  We immediately noticed on our drive into Oro Valley the vast network of bike paths alongside the roads, a large number of popular stores and restaurants, a Ritz Carlton resort, a large hospital, and nice homes all set within the stunning backdrop of the Santa Catalina Mountains.  This place obviously is a well thought out planned community, where many families and retired people call home.  The first thing we did when arriving at Catalina State Park was to use the free central dump on the way to our campsite.  Our site, #18 ($35/night), has electric and water hookups with a spectacular view of the mountains.  Verizon cell coverage was poor, but a useable signal was obtainable by walking around the campground.  The daytime temperatures were in the 60’s, but our water filter was icy the next morning which slowed water flow inside the Scamp (overnight temperatures in the 20’s), so we switched to our internal fresh tank the next night and had no issues.  Fortunately, the fresh tank is inside the Scamp 13’ (underneath the right side bench seat), so it stays warm even in freezing temperatures (assuming the interior of the Scamp is kept heated).  We spent a couple of days here enjoying numerous hikes, including the Romero Ruins hike.  One of the highlights of our stay was when an owl landed on our Scamp’s roof right above our heads and hooted (similar to our Scampgrounds logo)!  Scamper quick tip:  when the night temperatures are forecasted to be cold and electric hookups are provided, bring a small electric ceramic heater (like this one) to avoid using your propane gas (save your propane for when no electric hookups are provided to use for the furnace, refrigerator, gas stove, and hot water heater).

It’s about a two hour drive from Catalina State Park to Patagonia Lake State Park, directly south on the 19 Freeway.  The route goes almost straight down to the Mexican border town of Nogales.  Patagonia Lake is very isolated and is surrounded by rolling hills.  The campground is spread out with its own store, boat ramp, marina, and plenty of picnic tables and small docks available to launch canoes and kayaks.  Cabins are also available to rent for those without RVs.  We had a nice campsite by the lake, #22 ($30/night), which has electric and water hookups (there is also a free central dump at the campground).  Because lush vegetation grows along the shores of the lake, there are few campsites with expansive lake views.  But, campers can walk down to the area of the Visitor’s Center and there are plenty of picnic tables with great water scenery.  Verizon service was only useable in certain locations (e.g. near the Visitor’s Center).  We ran our ceramic heater at this location as well since it was chilly at night and we had an electric hookup.  Individuals and families who enjoy time out on the water with inflatable boats and other types of kayaks/canoes flock here throughout the year.  We also saw people fishing (both from shore and boats).  The area is also popular for birders, as there are a large variety of bird species in the area (including ones from Mexico).  There is also access to Sonoita Creek State Natural Area (which we hiked) close by that is a popular preserve among birders.  There are a lot of trails near the lake and the Sonoita Creek area.  We spent a couple of days hiking, watching wildlife (including birds and deer), and even seeing some free range cows.  Pontoon boat tours ($7 per adult/$5 per child) are offered on Saturdays and Sundays at various times which focus on both avian and discovery interests.  And, bird walks are led by rangers Monday and Friday mornings at 9 a.m. (meet at the Birding Trail near site 12).  Note – tour types, days and times are subject to change, so call ahead to confirm.  We made sure to use the free central dump on the way out of the campground as our next stop was somewhere quite remote and without dump facilities.

Continuing our journey further east for two and half hours, we made our way to Chiricahua (pronounced cherry-cow-a) National Monument (Bonita Canyon Campground), not far from the Arizona – New Mexico border.  The campground is hidden in the mountains thirty five miles southeast of Willcox, the closest town to the area.  We filled up our gas tank in Willcox before heading out onto quiet Highway 186; we didn’t see any cars the entire forty five minute drive to the campground (the drive was easy on paved roads).  Not having learned much about the campground, we expected it to be fairly isolated with minimal facilities or support staff.  We made sure our fresh tank was full (just in case water spigots were not working) and black and grey tanks were drained before arriving (since there is no central dump).  Our expectations were happily turned upside down upon arrival; we passed a beautiful Visitor Center (with a natural rock exterior similar to ones found in Yosemite) and were greeted at our site by one of three volunteer rangers who live at the campground!  Several deer stood by next to us, seemingly unfazed, as we navigated our Scamp 13’ into our site, #14 (nice spot looking out at the mountains, $20/night, no cell phone service, no hookups, but there are working water spigots, a grey water sink for disposing of grey water, and free WiFi at the Visitor’s Center)!  The ranger gave us a brief rundown on some of the trails and made some recommendations on where to explore in this “Land of Standing up Rocks”.

The terrain here is much different than many of the Arizona desert campgrounds.  This mountain campground sits at over 5,000 feet elevation and there are over 1,200 species of plants in the surrounding area.  There are pines, firs, yuccas, agaves, prickly pear cactus and many others.  There is also abundant wildlife, including birds, coatimundi (raccoon like creatures), Arizona white-tailed deer, Javelina (pig like, but not a pig), black bears, Chiricahua fox squirrels, mountain lions, black-tailed rattlesnakes, and mountain spiny lizards.  Our site, #14, has a fantastic view of some of the mountains with stone rock formations for which this area is famous (note:  Site #13 has unobstructed mountain views and is, along with #14, a top choice for future visits).  The Mexican Jay birds are very bold and will stand at one’s feet looking for handouts.  Just ignore them (it’s also prohibited to feed wildlife) and they will go about their business foraging for acorns.  The first thing we did after setting up our Scamp 13’ was to take the half mile trail to the Visitor’s Center.  It’s well stocked with Chiricahua related items (including t-shirts) as well as snacks.  We were given a large map and one of the rangers gave us her list of must see attractions.  We still had enough time before dark on our first afternoon to hike to Faraway Ranch (a ranch homesteaded in 1886 by Swedish immigrants Neil Erickson and Emma Peterson) where a number of ranch buildings are preserved.  Along the way, we saw numerous deer, wild turkeys, and a band of coatimundi (about 20 of them with their tails straight up)!  None of these animals were startled by our presence and walked right by us within a few feet.  It seems this is a land time has forgot where wildlife hasn’t been too disrupted by mankind.  We felt like visitors to the animals’ home and they treated us well.  Here is some video of animals we took close to the campground.

We took the eight-mile scenic drive above the campground to Massai Point (elevation 6900 ft.) on our second day to look out over the Chiricahua National Monument vistas.  We walked the easy half-mile Massai Nature Trail (some Verizon signal here) and marveled at the expanse of standing rock columns formed by volcanic eruptions 27 million years ago.  The unusual rock formations reminded us of our time spent in Cappadocia, Turkey, known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys”.   We were astonished that something like this existed in Arizona.  To get an even more immersive experience, we parked at the Echo Canyon parking lot a little way down the mountain and hiked the moderate 3.3 mile Echo Canyon Loop Trail which winds its way through the mesmerizing Echo Canyon Grotto (a fairytale like series of stone columns nestled closely together).  We didn’t have time for the Heart of Rocks Loop (7.3 miles strenuous loop) which has some of the famous balancing rock structures (like the Big Balanced Rock, Pinnacle Balance Rock, Punch & Judy, and Duck on a Rock), but hope to return and do it in the future.  We are glad we had at least two days here, but if we had known there are so much fantastic scenery and things to do in this area, we would have booked a minimum of three nights.  We met one fit hiker who told us she had been here six days and was just able to complete all of the Monument’s main hikes!  The ranger was right when he told us when we first pulled in that this place is a hidden gem!

We left Bonita Canyon Campground the next morning with a full fresh tank as the next campground, Picacho Peak State Park, notified us that fresh water was not available due to the drought (this was a first for us)!  We headed down the mountain back into Willcox and then continued west past Tucson (a two and a half hour drive from Chiricahua National Monument).  Picacho Peak State Park is located off the 10 Freeway between Tucson and Phoenix.  It’s a largely flat desert landscape with some tall mountains (including Picacho Peak, of which the campground sits at the base).  The freeway can be seen and heard (along with trains) in the distance from the campground (some noise).  We were excited to arrive because we planned to meet Canadian friends (Colleen and Perry) in person for the first time who we know from Instagram (who also travel by fiberglass travel trailer).  We used the free central dump when pulling in and then found our site, #C27 (electric hookup, no water, $30/night, good Verizon cell service).  Site #C27 is fairly private and well located with nice mountain views.  As we finished setting up our Scamp 13’, a horn honked, and we saw our friends pulling in with their Oliver Elite II travel trailer.  We found we had a lot in common and all took a nice walk together after lunch.  Our friend Colleen cooked a fabulous Mexican dinner for us and we enjoyed it at their campsite.  The next morning, we took a very challenging hike to the top of Picacho Peak!  It’s a strenuous hike and some parts are very vertical, requiring the use of steel cables which are anchored into the rock.  It’s recommended to wear leather gloves to avoid getting hand injuries while grabbing the cables.  We made the ascent in about one and a half hours and the descent in a little over an hour.  It’s a thrilling and strenuous hike, and definitely not recommended for the faint of heart (or those with a fear of heights)!  We had a marvelous time here with our new friends and really enjoyed the campground (even though it is close to the city and freeway).  The desert scenery, including cactus and mountains, made for a peaceful stay.

To avoid a six hour ride straight back home to San Diego, we headed to Yuma (3 hours from Picacho Peak SP) for a stay over at Hidden Cove RV Park ($45/night, full hookups).  Hidden Cove RV Park (located in Arizona) is situated right on the Colorado River on the Arizona-California border.  The people here are very nice and this RV park is very close to the highlights of downtown Yuma.  We didn’t have much time though in Yuma to explore, since we hiked Picacho Peak the same day as our departure to Yuma.  We enjoyed a late lunch at a local burger place, Eddie’s Grill, in Yuma before relaxing in the evening (including a walk along the Colorado River path).  There was a beautiful sunset allowing for a nice opportunity to launch the drone for photos.  The next morning, before leaving for home, we walked along the long dirt road across the street from the RV park which parallels an aqueduct and meanders along farmland (which provides miles of peaceful walking terrain).

This turned out to be a fantastic trip.  We didn’t know what to expect, which is part of what makes trips to new places so fun.  We always read about our destinations in advance when planning trips, but the reality is usually different and the sights, sounds & smells of what’s experienced can never be replicated online.  It’s the excitement of the unknown–visiting new locations and meeting new people—that has the potential to greatly broaden one’s horizons.  We never come back from a trip exactly the same as when we left (and this is usually a positive thing!).  It’s the mystery and discovery of what’s just around the next corner that keeps us going!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Why and How I Repositioned Our 2020 Scamp’s Shower Pump

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Why and How I Repositioned Our 2020 Scamp’s Shower Pump

In the past two years since taking delivery of our 2020 Scamp 13’, I haven’t spent much time looking underneath the camper.  I did add underglow lighting and had to replace a faulty Grey tank capacity sensor over the past couple of years, but other than these things most of my attention has been above the floor.  It was only this past month, when we ran into trouble south of the Trona Pinnacles, did I see how exposed and perilous a position where the factory installed shower pump sits.  On this misadventure, after a series of unfortunate events (lack of signs, wrong turns, continually narrowing roads), we found ourselves on a grueling ATV trail with no easy and safe way to turn around.  Here’s a short video from our off road drive!  When we finally arrived at the Pinnacles from the south, we noticed our shower water pump (which hangs down really low below the Scamp) was damaged.  One of the hose connectors on the pump was completely broken off and the vinyl tubing was dangling down to the ground.  Fortunately, an RV repair shop about an hour away was able to replace our pump immediately so we could continue on with our trip.  The mechanic and I spoke about repositioning the pump into a nice protected recessed area (under where the toilet sits) adjacent to the factory position, but due to concern about the tubing becoming pinched, and our time constraints, we opted to leave it in its original spot.

When we returned home, I resolved to reposition the shower pump into the protected recessed position (under where the toilet sits) to avoid a potential repeat of what happened south of the Trona Pinnacles.  The first thing I did was call Scamp and ask why the shower pump is factory mounted in the low center exposed position (under the shower pan).  I was told that it is placed in this position because the plumbing hoses will get pinched or crimped if it is put in the deeper recessed position.  This is exactly what the mechanic told me when trying to replace the new pump in this location.  There really isn’t much room for the vinyl tubing to attach to the hose adapters on the pump and make such a sharp turn in the small recessed area to avoid the trailer frame.  Ultimately, after some research, I decided to use 90 degree threaded elbow connectors to address this problem.  The hardest part of the project was figuring out all the supplies and tools I needed.  After that, the actual relocation of the Scamp shower pump was relatively easy and only took about an hour working slowly and cautiously.  Here are the Project Tools and Supplies I used to relocate the Scamp 13’ shower pump.

Project Tools and Supplies:

a.  Tools

    1. Square #2 Screwdriver or
      1. Electric screw driver which accepts ¼” bits
      2. Square #2 bits
    2. Pex / Vinyl Tubing Cutter
    3. Metal Snips
    4. Wire cutters
    5. Crimper tool

 b.  Supplies

    1. ¾” ID, 1” OD vinyl tubing w/clamps (10 feet) 
    2. Two ½” PVC 90-Degree MPT x FPT Elbow Fitting (threaded inside and out)
    3. Wire similar in thickness to existing pump wire to extend wire for reposition, butt connectors

Here are the Project Steps I took to relocate the Scamp 13’ shower pump.

Project Steps:

  1. SAFETY: I made sure my Scamp 13’ was parked on a flat level surface (my garage), the tongue jack was stable, and I used heavy duty wheel chocks to prevent the trailer from rolling.  I also wore safety glasses to help prevent anything from falling into my eyes while working under the trailer.  I also made sure my mobile phone was within reach in case I needed to call for help when working.
  2. Using the Square #2 Driver, I removed the two square #2 screws which hold the metal strap around the shower pump
  3. I unscrewed the metal hose clamps on the pump’s inlet and outlet (and placed little plastic containers under the hoses to prevent grey water from dripping onto the garage floor) and pulled both hoses from the pump’s inlet and outlet.
  4. I removed the shower pump by unscrewing the four Phillips head screws holding the pump’s rubber feet to the Scamp’s under floor (I left the 4 screws in the rubber feet to use again when remounting) and set the pump on the garage floor
  5. I would have cut and extended the black and red wires at this time (using new wire, wire cutters, butt connectors, etc.) to allow repositioning to the farther recessed area, but the mechanic who installed the new pump already extended the wires for me (before deciding he couldn’t easily reposition the pump)
  6. I removed the black plastic hose adapters from the pump inlet / outlet by manually unscrewing them from the pump
  7. I set the white ½” plastic threaded elbow connectors and black hose adapters down next to the pump on the floor facing toward the rear of the Scamp 13’ to visualize the setup
  8. I screwed on the white PVC ½” elbow connectors directly onto the pump. I found that I could only screw them on about 4 full turns and didn’t force turning them any more to prevent possible cracking.  I made sure their final position was facing back toward the rear of the Scamp (the rear of the pump has the big square and the front is the cylinder with aerodynamic small bulb).  Then, I screwed on the black hose adapters onto the white elbow connectors so they faced straight back.
  9. I positioned the pump into the protected recessed area under the toilet (as far forward as possible without the elbows hitting the metal frame) and, using the existing screws, I mounted the pump (the screws self-tap into the floor) (I was told the Scamp floor is ¾” thick and verified the thickness by measuring the exposed floor thickness next to the shower drain under the trailer, but I used the existing screws since they were in good condition so didn’t need to be concerned with screw length).
  10. I remounted the metal strap using the existing square #2 screws around the pump to secure it (using my metal snips, I clipped off one small segment / one hole so the strap would fit into the small area).
  11. Lastly, I attached the hoses using the metal clamps (from filter outlet to pump inlet, from pump outlet to Grey tank). The Tube Cutter made the job very easy; cutting the thick vinyl is just a quick snip.
    1. I put the metal clamps on the vinyl tube ends first before pushing them over the inlets/outlets.
    2. Grey Tank hose to Pump outlet: I was really careful not to cut the Grey tank hose too short (since that hose goes all the way to the back of the trailer).  I positioned the Grey tank hose right up against the pump outlet and made sure that there was enough hose to go all the way to the back of the outlet and then I clipped the excess hose.
    3. Filter outlet hose to Pump inlet: I first attached the new hose to the pump inlet and then I pulled the hose up to the filter and, making sure the new hose went all the way to the back of the filter outlet, made a quick cut with the tube cutter.
    4. After pushing all tubing over the inlet/outlets all the way to the back of them, I screwed the metal clamps over the hose inlets/outlets so they are really tight.
  12. After completing the project, I tested the system to make sure the water flowed properly (e.g. shower water drains quickly) and there were no leaks. Click here to see a video of the new system working.

I also installed a new metal Chip Guard from Scamp ($23.63 from Scamp + $20 shipping at the time of the writing), which hangs down to deflect rocks, etc. from hitting the underside of the Scamp.  Our Scamp’s original chip guard was badly dented while off-roading south of the Trona Pinnacles.  I tried to bend it back, but it would have taken a lot of effort, so I decided just to replace it.  With the Scamp’s shower pump now relocated to a protected recessed position and new chip guard, I feel the main parts under the trailer are now very well guarded.   To happier and safer trails ahead!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

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Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks
September 11th – 18th, 2022 (7 nights)

Visiting Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks in the shoulder season is a fantastic way to experience the parks without heavy summer crowds.  The weather was very pleasant during our visit in September with highs in the high 60’s (perfect for hiking) and lows in the low 40’s (perfect for sleeping) and the trails were fairly unpopulated.  Because of the cool nights, we used the furnace in our Scamp 13’ while sleeping and set the thermostat at 58 degrees, which was very comfortable for a great night’s rest.  Because the drive from our home in Carlsbad to these parks is around 8 hours, we stopped halfway for overnights at Bear Mountain RV Park in Bakersfield to break up the drives both going to the parks and on our way home.  Fortunately, we brought along our portable AC system, because it was in the 90’s in Bakersfield!

When searching for a convenient half way overnight stop, our biggest priority was finding a place which was along the route so we didn’t add unnecessary driving time.  Additionally, since we knew it could still be very hot in the Central Valley in September, we also wanted to make sure the place where we stayed had electrical hookups so we would be able to run our AC system.  Lastly, we wanted a reasonable nightly rate since we weren’t going to have time to take advantage of any extra facilities (like pool, laundry room, clubhouse, miniature golf course, etc.) or location (e.g. proximity to the downtown, etc.).  Bear Mountain RV Park in the Central Valley (Bakersfield) meets all of these criteria; it’s just a few minutes off the 99 Freeway (located in between farmland), about halfway from our home to Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, it offers full hookups, and the rate when we stayed was only $34/night (although they just raised the rate to $39/night).  Most of the park is occupied by monthly renters, but the last row of campsites is set aside to accommodate overnight guests.  We were assigned site #17 and our friends, Phil & Claudia, who accompanied us on this trip, were parked right next to us.  It was hot (about 95 degrees) when we arrived, so we set up our portable AC system which chilled the Scamp down very quickly.  The park advertises WiFi, but we couldn’t get a good signal at our location.  However, there is a cell tower close by and we got fast internet and good phone service anyway with our Spectrum/Verizon mobile service.  HDTV signals were also plentiful and crystal clear here.  As an added bonus, we enjoyed evening walks along a farmland path of pistachio trees across the street from Bear Mountain RV park.

Because we were towing a travel trailer, we had to take the longer route, Highway 180, to reach Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks.  Driving up the more direct route, Highway CA-198E, is not permitted for vehicles over 22 feet long due to severe hair pin turns (our Volvo XC40 is 14.5 feet long and our Scamp 13’ is 13 feet long = our total length of 27.5 feet).  The road into the park during the last hour of driving is windy, but not too bad.  Because Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks are national parks, a $35 entrance fee is required at the entrance station.  We opted to purchase the $80 annual America the Beautiful Pass instead which allows access to all national parks in addition to other government lands for a year.  We arrived at Lodgepole Campground in Sequoia National Park to a fantastic site (#160, $22/night) right alongside a creek.  This site is spacious and situated in the middle of a beautiful pine forest.  There are no hookups here, but, despite the campground being heavily forested, we were able to get all the electricity we needed by using our solar panels.  We also arrived with two fully filled propane tanks, which provided all the gas we needed to cook, heat our water for nightly showers, and power our furnace to keep our Scamp’s interior nice and warm in the middle of the night.  There is a threaded water spigot close by to site #160 and we used our super hose extender for quick water fills whenever needed!  Also, there is a free central dump station at the entrance of the park (only a few minutes’ drive from site #160) which we used during the middle of our five night stay here (quick and easy).  So, despite the campsites having no hookups here, one can still experience a fabulous long stay at Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks with the right gear and planning.  And, Lodgepole Campground is a great location when visiting these parks because it is right at the center of most of the natural attractions.  Note:  there is no cell phone reception at most places within the park (though, there are payphones at Lodgepole Campground, and Waksachi Lodge – a few miles down the road- offers free very poor quality WiFI [when we visited], but the best value in gifts we encountered within the park ).  A ranger informed us that there is a helipad (perhaps the large overflow parking lot at the entrance to Lodgepole Campground) and there are rangers available 24/7 in case of emergencies.

The highlight of a trip to Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks is walking among the giant sequoia trees.  These trees are among the largest and oldest trees on Earth and are magnificent to behold.  What’s amazing too is that they only exist on one place on Earth, and that’s here within a narrow 260 mile path of forest on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains (between 5,000 and 7,000 feet in elevation).   Some of these trees are over 3,000 years old!   These giant sequoias are awe inspiring and a trip to this national park should be at the very top of everyone’s bucket list of places to see in their lifetime.  The main trail to see these giants is the Congress Trail.  To get here, one can either hike a 2.8 mile trail from Lodgepole Campground to the General Sherman Tree, or drive to the General Sherman parking area just down the road.  The Congress Trail is a gentle 2.7 mile paved round trip path that goes by some of the largest and well know sequoias in Sequoia National Park.   The trail begins at the General Sherman tree, which is the largest living tree on Earth and stands over 275 feet tall.  Also along the path are the President Tree, Chief Sequoyah Tree, The Senate Group, The House Group, and McKinley Tree.  The President Tree, named after President Warren G. Harding in 1923, is the oldest living sequoia tree at over 3,200 years old (about 250 feet tall).  Curiously, we didn’t see the famous General Lee Tree name on the path.  We speculated that the name was “cancelled” due to him owning slaves and other injustices (which we later confirmed when reading this article).  However, Google Maps still listed the tree and we were able to find it unlabeled.

There are also numerous trails which originate from Lodgepole Campground (some tens of miles long and requiring a backcountry permit for overnight camping in the wild).  One of the most famous is the Tokopah Falls Trail (allow 2 – 3 hours). It’s a roughly 3.8 mile moderately challenging out and back hike which meanders its way up the Kaweah River and comes to a head at the bottom of a 1,200 cascading foot waterfall (although dry during summer and fall months if no rain).  The falls were flowing a little bit during our visit because it had recently rained (hikers previously reported no water flow the week before).  The falls are formed as the marble fork of the Kaweah River slides down a magnificent granite face into the Tokopah Valley.  The trail has areas with sections of stone steps as well as short wood plank bridges.  The last short section of trail is over uneven granite rocks and should be avoided by those with stability issues (the waterfall can still be seen before this section though).  It’s a beautiful hike that passes though forest and meadows.  It’s also common to see bears near the trail in the early morning.  We saw one on our visit.  Sequoia National Park is an active bear area for the American black bear.  It’s mandatory to use the metal bear food lockers to store your food at the campsite.  There are many stories of bear encounters like this one here and this scary one for a camper at Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks.  Be “bear aware” and try never to sneak up on an unsuspecting bear since startling the animal at close range could provoke a defensive attack.  Usually, the bears will hear hikers and stay at a distance or move away.  If a bear approaches, make yourself look big by raising your arms (and if you are in a group huddle together) and make a lot of noise by clapping and yelling.  It’s generally not recommended to try to outrun the bear (unless you have some slower hikers with you!).  The same advice applies to mountain lions which like to chase running prey.

Make sure to visit the Giant Forest Museum during your visit.  The small free museum has some excellent displays and information on sequoias and the area (as well as a nice gift shop).  There’s also a nice one mile round trip meadow hike from the museum.  On the south side of the museum is a short paved road which leads to Beetle Rock, a large granite rock which you can climb on and offers nice mountain views to the south and west.  It’s a great place to watch the sunset.  Speaking of sunsets, if you have time, also plan a visit to Sunset Rock.  Sunset Rock Trail can be accessed across the road from the Giant Forest Museum.  It’s an easy mile forest trail that leads to a large granite dome (Sunset Rock) which offers superb western views (best visited at sunset).  And, speaking of rocks, climbing Moro Rock should be on your radar (as long as you aren’t averse to climbing a bunch of stairs – about 350 steps to the top – or have a fear of heights).  It’s considered a moderately challenging hike, but it is fairly short (only about .5 miles round trip) and can be completed in about half an hour without stopping (there’s a parking lot at its base).  No serious rock climbing is necessary as this granite dome has rock stairs along with metal handrails to keep visitors safe.  The 360 degree views at the top are spectacular, offering sights of an incredible mountain range on one side and looking way out over the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River toward the Great Western Divide of the High Sierra and down to the San Joaquin Valley below on the other (highly recommended).

There’s so much to do in Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks that we only scratched the surface during out five night stay at Lodgepole Campground in Sequoia National Park.  We noticed some campers left some days to make long drives (over one hour to the Kings Canyon side of the park) to explore areas, such as Mist Falls and Hume Lake, on the Kings Canyon side of the parks.  But, with the windy roads and drive time of over an hour to cross the parks, we decided to spend most of our time in Sequoia National park and touch the highlight of Kings Canyon National Park (visiting the General Grant Tree at Grant Grove Village) on our way out of the park on our last day.  I’m glad we decided to spend the majority of our time in Sequoia National Park, staying at Lodgepole Campground, because there are more groves of the giant sequoias here.  I would definitely consider coming back in the future and staying within Kings Canyon National park to see some of the waterfalls and other natural wonders though (there are numerous campgrounds within Kings Canyon National Park including:  Azalea Campground, Crystal Springs Campground, and Sunset Campground).  On our way to Grant Grove Village, we refueled at Stony Creek gas station (free WiFi that actually works too!).  There is a visitor’s center and gift shop (the most expensive we visited in the park) at Grant Grove Village as well as some RV parking.  We avoided the two mile round trip hike from Grant Grove Village to the General Grant Tree and back by driving down the road and parking in the small General Grant Tree parking lot.  We got lucky and found a couple of RV spaces to park (there are only around 4 bus/RV spaces).  After viewing the magnificent General Grant Tree, which is just right in front of the parking lot, it got a bit crazy on our way out.  A large tourist bus pulled in and blocked the exit path for a little while.  We were fortunate to have been able to plan our visit to stay during the week and were reminded that, even during the off season, weekends can be very busy in national parks.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Central Sierras (Huntington & Shaver Lakes)

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Central Sierras (Huntington & Shaver Lakes)
July 9th – 19th, 2022 (10 nights)

Summer is usually a great time to head for the mountains (which are often inaccessible other times of year due to harsh weather).  A neighbor recommended we visit the Central Sierra, specifically Huntington Lake and Shaver Lake. He has spent a lot of time in this area and reported the lakes to be spectacular.  Because the drive directly from our home in San Diego to Huntington Lake is a long one (over seven hours), we decided to make a couple stops in between to make the drive easier.  We first stopped at my brother’s house in Pacific Palisades (Los Angeles area) for a night.  Then, we headed to a stop in the Central Valley.  Our neighbors, Phil & Claudia, also joining us on this trip with their RPOD trailer, recommended we stay at Success Lake in the Central Valley.  The only hitch (pardon the pun) with this plan is that the temperature during this time of year is often over 100 degrees at Success Lake and our Scamp 13′ didn’t come with AC (see article, “No AC, No Problem”).  Fortunately, I had a couple of weeks to prepare and I was able to build a mounting system for a mini window AC unit.

We were curious about the fully loaded (full Fresh and Hot Water tanks) weight of our Scamp 13’ (with front bathroom), so we stopped at one of the many CAT Certified Scales (big yellow signs with a Cat head) prevalent throughout the Central Valley.  California’s Central Valley, which provides a quarter of the nation’s food (including 40% of the nation’s fruits and nuts), has many public weigh stations due to the considerable amount of trucking in the area.  The California standard weigh fee is currently $13.  At the weigh station, there are multiple scale platforms (designed for tractor trailers) defined by bright yellow outlines.  Just make sure the trailer is on one and the tow vehicle is on another to get an accurate weight.  Push the Call button and the weigh master will print out a weight certificate for you.  Our Scamp weighed in wet (full Fresh, Hot water, and Propane x 2 tanks) at 1840 lbs., which is considered a light trailer.

Success Lake is a recreation lake in the Central Valley and is popular for boating, waterskiing, sailing, kayaking, swimming and fishing.  There are about 103 campsites at the campground, called Tule Campground, and a small marina which has boat rentals.  The campground is operated by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and is a dammed reservoir.  We had an electric hookup site (water also included, free central Dump), site #54, which was $30/night and has a view of the lake.  There was good cell service during our visit (three bars on Verizon and good streaming).  We were also able to pick up 11 clear HD channels over the air on our HD TV.  The campground was nearly empty during our stay and it was easy to understand why – the temperature was well over 100 degrees.  However, the lake was busy with families enjoying the water.  As soon as we hooked up and set up our new window mini air conditioner, we spent most of our time in the Scamp playing games.  We set the temperature inside the Scamp at a nice cool 74 degrees.  The hot weather outside during the day was inhospitable.  Just a short walk was very uncomfortable.  However, the heat cooled a bit by early evening allowing us a walk with our friends along the lake and marina.  The next morning, we left right after breakfast, avoiding the extreme heat of the day (dumping at the free central dump station on the way out).

The flat and arid nature of the Central Valley changes to a mountain landscape with dense pines, after passing Fresno and climbing high up into the lake country.  Once we left Success Lake, it took us about three and a half hours to reach Rancheria Campground (no hookups or dump, but shared water spigots) at Huntington Lake (elevation 7,028 ft.).  Rancheria Campground is a beautiful lakeside campground nestled among tall pines.  There are beaches along the lake and the crystal clear water wasn’t too cold to take a dip.  The lake is known for being windy and popular for sailing.  There is a marina close to the campground.  Our campsite, #74 ($37/night), has a nice view of the lake and is well spaced between other campsites.  This campground has numerous sites with nice lakes views (our favorite sites are #65, #68, #71, #70, #69, #72, #81, #67, #66, #74, #69, #76, #82, and #81).  A bear paid a visit to the campground one night and enjoyed some s’mores left out by campers.  We enjoyed hikes along the lake as well as a long hike up to Rancheria Falls (about four miles from the campground, which took us about 3 hours).  Despite it being July, the waterfall had a really lively flow.  We also had some really fun games of the board game Sequence with our friends.  For an overview video of our stay at Rancheria Campground, click here.

After a couple nights at Huntington Lake, we headed down to Dorabelle Campground (at Shaver Lake, elevation 5,627 ft.) (only about 30 minutes away).  We needed to dump, so we stopped at the only dump station in the area (Camp Edison).  We were scheduled to spend the weekend at Camp Edison, but since we needed to dump outside our stay dates we were charged ($30) – the highest dump fee we have ever paid (it’s usually around $7 – $10).  Dorabelle Campground seems more oriented toward families with beaches jumping with children.  Unfortunately, almost all the campsites (except one) do not have a lake view.  There is no dump here or hookups.  There are shared water spigots.  The cell phone reception is a bit spotty.  Even though this campground did not live up to all our expectations, we still enjoyed our campsite (#31, $42/night) (which was located in a beautiful meadow).  Our Scamp 13’ was often in considerable shade, so we had a chance to try out for the first time our 50’ solar extension cables to allow our solar panels to be positioned out in the sun!  There are many hiking trails adjacent to Dorabelle Campground, giving access to walks through grassy fields filled with beautiful flowers (e.g. lupine) and tall pines.  On our hikes, we saw ospreys flying as well as tree top nests with osprey chicks’ heads bobbing above the rim high above the lake.  We also had the chance to go out on the water when our generous campsite neighbor offered us a lake tour. The lake was very active with people swimming, boating, jet skiing, fishing, and sunbathing.  During the boating excursion, we got out of the boat on a secluded beach and hiked up to Shaver Lake Falls!

We spent our last couple of days in the Central Sierra at Camp Edison, also on Shaver Lake (a utility run campground just 10 minutes down the lake from Dorabelle Campground).  Camp Edison has the feel of a privately run campground with many amenities (including well stocked camp store, adjacent museum, basketball court, volleyball court, walking trails….).  We were about 45 minutes early for the 1 p.m. check in, and, were told we couldn’t check in until exactly 1 p.m.!  This was surprising because we’ve never had an issue with early arrivals in the past at other campgrounds.  Our campsite also was a bit pricey (the most we’ve ever paid for a campsite at $70/night).  The site, #129, was listed as a premium lake side site and we were expecting a grand lake view given the price.  We were a little taken aback when we pulled in and found the site unpaved, not level, and without a lake view from our Scamp (although there is a lake view from the site’s picnic area above the site pad)!  We had electric power (which was good because there was a mini heat wave while we were there and we were able to run our AC system!).  There is no dedicated water hookup at this site, but there is a shared spigot close by.  Luckily, the shared spigot had enough threads that we were able to hook up our hoses (25’ hose + 50’ extension hose) to reach our Scamp without having to haul water up the hill.  Despite some of these issues, we did have an enjoyable stay at Camp Edison.  On our first night, there was a fantastic thunder and lightning storm and a tree was struck by lightning in town.  There is a great museum, The Museum of the Sierra, adjacent to the campground which has wonderful displays which show how the logging and utility industries developed in the area.  There were live demonstrations of machinery including steam engines moving heavy logs and hydroelectric turbines used for power generation.  There was even a free ice cream social put on by the museum volunteers!  And, on Sunday morning, we went on a great guided hike with a couple guides from the Forestry Service.  Overall, we had a really good experience at Camp Edison.

We decided to skip Success Lake (forecast was for 109 degrees) on the way home and head straight to my brother’s house in Pacific Palisades on the coast (about a 5 hour drive from Camp Edison).   A 6AM squirrel alarm allowed us to get an early start!  We had fun playing games and watching a movie with my brother and nephews before heading home to San Diego the next morning.  For an alternative to the Eastern Sierras (e.g. Mammoth Lakes), definitely consider a visit to the Central Sierras and enjoy equally impressive lake and mountain scenery!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Small Travel Trailer Mini Air Conditioner Mount for Rear Window (Temporary)

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Small Travel Trailer Mini Air Conditioner Mount for Rear Window (Temporary)
***Remove AC When Travelling – this is a temporary setup just for use when parked!***

When we purchased our 2020 Scamp 13’, we knew we wanted to store it in our garage for many reasons (see “Why and How We Fit Our Scamp in the Garage”).  However, when we placed our order from the Scamp factory, we didn’t order the AC (but did order the reinforced roof for AC just in case situations changed, see “Ordering Our 2020 Scamp”).  This is because, even after raising our garage height from 7 to 8 feet, our new Scamp would have been too tall to clear the garage opening with the factory rooftop air conditioner.  So, we figured we would just plan trips to take hot weather into account.  And, this strategy has worked really well over the past couple of years (there have only been a few times when AC would have really come in handy — see “No AC, No Problem“).  Ultimately though, we have found that when heading to mountain lakes in the summer months, we need to make stops a bit out of our way or drive non-stop to cross the hot parts of California (e.g. Central Valley or Mojave Desert) to beat the heat.  These heat avoidance workarounds have meant taking less efficient longer routes or very long rides straight to our destination.

When looking for solutions (including more streamlined rooftop AC models), we came to realize that we only needed AC mostly in the summer months (and, even then, only on specific trips).  Rooftop ACs are most convenient — however, they are also relatively expensive (including requiring installation expense, unless you can do that yourself), moderately heavy (sometimes creating roof sag on fiberglass trailers), and can be costly to replace when necessary.  Additionally, even the low profile units we found looked to have questionable clearance to fit in our garage.  Taking into account all these factors, we decided that a temporary removable window AC unit would be perfect for our requirements (e.g. inexpensive, easy to install on a temporary basis, lightweight, and also cheap to replace when necessary).  We also wouldn’t have to carry around the heavier weight of a permanently mounted rooftop AC on every trip (including winter trips).  The goal of this project is to create a stable platform to temporarily and quickly mount the window AC unit when at the campsite (removed for driving) which won’t damage the trailer (e.g. window or fiberglass window frame) and provide insulation against insects and weather.

After considerable research and reviews of different window AC units and also various methods people have used to secure a window AC inside their fiberglass travel trailer’s window, I decided to buy a small Frigidaire (FFRE053WAE) 5,000 BTU unit for room sizes up to 150 square feet (more than sufficient to cool the Scamp 13’s less than 80 square feet of interior living space).  It’s inexpensive (currently around $210 on Amazon), small (16” wide, 12 1/16” high, and 13 3/16” deep), lightweight (43lbs on my scale), rated at only 50db noise level, energy efficient and very well reviewed.  Additionally, others have reported using this unit successfully to cool their small fiberglass travel trailers.  It’s among the smallest and lightest window AC units available and ranks as one of the top brands on Consumer Reports.

Every small fiberglass travel trailer is different and weight tolerances vary.  Anyone attempting to undertake this project should understand there are no guarantees when installing a window AC unit in their fiberglass travel trailer’s window.  Damage is a possibility if the trailer’s fiberglass cannot handle the weight of the window AC (this may be especially relevant for older trailers).  However, many people have used window ACs in their small fiberglass travel trailers for years without incident.  Additionally, even some fiberglass travel manufactures have mounted ACs in windows throughout the years.  Taking all this into consideration and wanting to be extra cautious, I decided on using a wood platform and foot brace under the AC (even though it’s fairly light) which helps distribute some of the AC’s weight onto the Scamp’s bumper (which is welded to the trailer’s frame).  This is designed to reduce strain on the fiberglass window frame.  To protect the window, black pipe foam (like a pool noodle) is used around all edges of the window frame.

I spent around $210 for the window AC unit and $100 for materials for a project total of roughly $310 (I didn’t include the $130 I spent for tools in this total because I will use these tools for years on other projects as well).  So, for just a few hundred dollars (perhaps the cost of a hotel room for one or two nights), this system should provide a small travel trailer years of air conditioning relief on hot days.

The tasks to complete this project can be performed in three stages as outlined below.  The listed measurements apply to our 2020 Scamp 13’ trailer but can easily be modified for other trailers and ACs with different sizes.

Stage 1:  Planning
Measure the rear window opening to determine if there is enough width and height to mount the desired AC model (comparing to the desired AC’s dimensions).  If necessary, it may be possible to cut out a portion or remove the rubber window stop entirely to get the window to open more completely.

Stage 2:  Shopping
I decided to purchase a lot of the items for this project online.  However, I purchased the plywood (as well as PVC) at Home Depot so their staff could do most of the cutting for me at no charge (they only do straight cuts though).  Here’s the item list I compiled to complete the project:

a.  Purchase window AC unit (Frigidaire Window AC Model #FFRE053WAE)
b.  Purchase plywood (and, if you want, have it cut at a big box store like Home Depot or Lowes)

    1. One 4’ x 4’ x ½” thick (or 15/32” thick) panel
    2. One 2’ X 2’ x ¾” thick panel

c.  Purchase Tools (if needed)

    1. Belt Sander (to round corners), extra sand paper for belt sander
    2. Jig Saw (to cut plywood), extra blades for jig saw
    3. Drill
    4. Electric Screwdriver
    5. 5/16” Drill bit (for hex bolts holding Sandwich Plates together)
    6. 3/32” Drill bit (pilot holes)
    7. 2.5” Spring Clamps (6)

d.  Purchase Hardware

    1. #6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Zinc Plated Wood Screws (100 pack)
    2. #6 x 3/8” flat head zinc plated Phillips wood screws (25 pack)
    3. Zinc Plated Hex Bolts x 5 (3 top, 2 bottom) ¼” -20 4” long
    4. Plated Wing Nut (4 pack) ¼” -20 x 2 packs (need 5)
    5. PVC Pipe 1”x 10’ White PVC
    6. PVC T Connectors for 1” diameter PVC x 2
    7. PVC End Caps for 1” diameter PVC x 3
    8. Black Pipe Foam 1” x 6’
    9. Wood glue Gorilla
    10. White (Glossy) Spray Paint (paint/primer) x 2 cans
    11. 2-Hole Pipe Hanger Straps 1” (4 pack) PVC brackets
    12. Velcro Strap (1)

Stage 3:  Construction (also refer to video)
Safety:  Always wear safety glasses for eye protection when working with power tools.

Interior Window Frame:
The purpose of the Interior Window Frame is to provide a stable space for the AC to be positioned into as well as protect the travel trailer’s window frame (so the AC doesn’t sit directly on the fiberglass).  The AC sits inside the Interior Window Frame (on a wooden platform) which sits against protective foam which surrounds the window (although there wasn’t enough window opening space on my Scamp 13’, even after removing a section of window stop, so no pipe foam was put on the outer side of the window  – though I added insulation on the AC interior to fill the gaps).  So whatever AC is used, it’s vital that the frame be large enough for the AC to fit inside it (but not too large, so the frame still fits snugly inside the rear window and doesn’t leave a big air gap).

It may be difficult to cut long lengths of wood with a jigsaw perfectly, so I recommend that, unless one has a circular saw, have a store like Home Depot make all the straight wood cuts.  The jig saw is absolutely fantastic and easy though for making the curved corner cuts (as well as the belt sander to smooth out the curves).  In this project, just the corners need to be rounded and the middle section of each sandwich plate needs to be cut out)

a.  Top & Bottom:  Cut two 16.5” long x 2.5” wide x .75” thick pieces of plywood
Carefully drill 5/16” holes (evenly spaced top and bottom) through the center of the .75” thick pieces, drilling through the entire 2.5” width so 4” hex bolts can pass through.  Three top holes 2” from each edge and one in the middle (all centered on frame), two holes in bottom corners 2” from each edge (a drill press makes this easier, I borrowed one from a neighbor)
b.  Sides: Cut two 14.25” long x 2.5” wide x ½” thick  (I had Home Depot cut these)
c.  Add wood glue onto ends of Top & Bottom pieces
d.  Position sides over the ends of these pieces
e.  Use #6 x 1” Phillips Zinc Plated Wood Screws (8) to join top, bottom and sides (use 3/32” bit for pilot holes if desired, otherwise just apply some pressure to start the screw into the side)
f.  Cut Black Pipe Foam and pad all sides of the rear window opening
g.  Once the square Interior Window Frame is Glued/Screwed together, position it in the rear window of trailer to make sure it fits. Remove a section of rubber window stop (see video) and/or use belt sander to round outside corners if it is too tight to fit.  The side window foam may also be removed if it is still too tight to fit the Interior Window Frame inside the trailer’s window (insulating foam can be pushed into gaps later when setting up at the campsite if necessary).
h.  Slide the square Interior Window Frame over the back of the AC to make sure it can slide almost all the way to the front of the AC (it should stop about an inch from the front due to protruding flanges on the AC).
i.  Fit the square Window Frame into the rear window (pipe foam will hold it in place)

Window Frame Sandwich Plates (Inner / Outer)
The purpose of the Window Frame Sandwich Plates is to hold the Interior Window Frame securely in place and provide insulation from insects and weather.

  1. Cut two 21” wide x 18” high x ½” thick pieces (I had Home Depot cut these)
  2. Trace round back outside window curves onto paper, apply by pencil to above pieces.
  3. Use the jigsaw and belt sander to round each outer window piece (watch video), also slightly round the window corners in the center of the trailer window to eliminate sharp points which can cause damage in transit
  4. Have a partner hold Outer Sandwich Plate in place over outside of rear window, completely covering the opening and level, and, on the inside of the trailer, use a pencil and mark the interior outline of the window frame on the inside of the Outer Sandwich Plate
  5. Use jigsaw to cut marked middle hole in Outer Sandwich plate (first start by drilling 5/16” holes in each corner so that the jigsaw blade may be inserted)
  6. Use outer Sandwich plate as template to mark middle hole position in Inner Sandwich Plate and use jigsaw to cut marked middle hole in Inner Sandwich Plate.
  7. Now, both Sandwich plates should have middle holes to allow the back of the AC to pass through
  8. Line up the Interior Window Frame with the Inner Sandwich Plate on a table and push a pencil through the 5/16” holes to mark the five holes in the top and bottom of the Interior Window Frame (3 marks on top and 2 marks on bottom). Then use these marks to drill 5/16” holes in both Sandwich Plates (using one as a template for the other).  These are for the hex bolts to pass through.
  9. Glue/screw (#6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Wood Screws x 12 – three on each side) to attach the Interior Window Frame to the inside of the Inner Sandwich Plate (make sure no parts of the plate rise above the Interior Window Frame opening so the AC will continue to pass through unobstructed)
  10. The five Zinc Plated Hex Bolts (six ¼”-20, 4” long) will go all the way through the two Sandwich Plates, and wing nuts on the outside of the Outer Sandwich Plate will hold both Sandwich Plates tightly against the Interior Window Frame (and the plates against the foam on the inside and outside of the trailer). This will hold the window frame assembly securely in position and prevent the AC from falling out of the trailer.
  11. Now assemble the complete window frame by bolting together the Inner (with the Interior Window Frame attached) and Outer Sandwich frames, securing the five hex bolts with ¼” -20 Plated Wing Nuts on the outside. Note:  I had to remove part of the rubber rear window stopper because the rear window didn’t open enough to allow the Interior Window Frame assembly to fit through the opening (at some point, on our Scamp, it didn’t help to keep removing pieces of the stopper because the window panel is eventually stopped from opening by the curve of the window.)  I also had to sand the outer upper and lower left hand (outer) corners of the Interior Window Frame round so the assembly would fit in the window.  It was too tight a fit even after taking these steps, so I needed to remove the outside side piece of pipe foam.  Insulating weather stripping comes with the AC and can be used at the campsite to temporarily fill any gaps

Platform Base
The purpose of the Platform Base is to help support the weight of the AC unit by using a PVC Leg and a PVC Foot to rest on top of the travel trailer bumper (which is welded to the Scamp trailer’s frame).

  1. Platform Base: Cut one 16” wide x 12” deep” x ½”  thick piece (I had Home Depot cut this)
  2. Use the jigsaw and belt sander to slightly round each corner of the Platform Base (for safety)
  3. Cut channels for underneath Platform Base: one 10” x 2.5” x ¾” thick (interior), one 6” x 2.5” x ¾” thick (exterior) (Home Depot can do this)
  4. Insert completed Interior Window Frame over pipe foam and then secure Outer Sandwich Plate to the Interior Sandwich Plate / Interior Window Frame with hex bolts and wing nuts
  5. Place Platform Base on top of the Interior Window Frame (so it doesn’t fall)
  6. Have a partner help position the AC inside the trailer (and someone outside to prevent the AC from falling out just in case) and put the AC on top of the Platform Base and hold the Platform Base in position as the AC back is pushed back inside the Interior Window Frame all the way until it stops (the outer flange protrusions on the AC should stop it from moving back when about a couple of inches of the interior control face is left inside the trailer). Adjust the Platform Base so it comes all the way out to the back end of the AC on the outside, as well as making sure the front AC feet are resting on it.
  7. With the AC nicely in position on the Platform Base, position the Channels (interior and exterior) on each side of the Interior Window Frame so they are against the Interior Window Frame’s bottom walls (inside and outside) and butted up on top against the underside of the Platform Base, not blocking the hex bolt holes, and mark these positions on the underside of the Platform Base (these markings will be where the Channels are glued and then screwed into the Platform Base)
  8. Remove the AC and entire assembly from the trailer
  9. Drill 3/32” pilot holes in the Platform Base (3 for the smaller exterior channel and 5 for the larger interior one, evenly spaced) up from the bottom of the Platform Base (inside the marked areas)
  10. Glue/screw (using #6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Zinc Plated Wood Screws) both Inside and Outside Channels underneath the Platform Base (using the pilot holes as a guide for screw locations), making sure no channel blocks the hex bolt holes
  11. Place the Platform Base on top of the Interior Window Frame so that it is held in place by the Outer and Inner Channels underneath the platform. It should fit perfectly, with the Channels snugly up against the Interior Window Frame
  12. PVC Platform Base and Foot: Cut three 6” lengths (with saw or PVC cutter) of the 1” PVC and plug two of them into one of the PVC T connectors and also install PVC Caps on each end (and repeat again, but only using one 6” length and cap for the foot)
  13. Set up the AC window mount assembly in the trailer window (with the Platform Base)
  14. Position the PVC under the wood platform so that the PVC Leg (once cut to size) will align the PVC Platform Foot (secured to the bumper with Velcro) with the travel trailer bumper and mark the positions of where the two 2-Hole Pipe Hanger Straps 1” should be mounted (and use the #6 x 3/8” wood screws (4) to mount the PVC Platform Base under the wood platform) (make sure to leave enough space so the wing nuts can still be installed/removed
  15. Cut a section of PVC to length so that the PVC leg will just come down to and rest on the bumper when the PVC Platform Foot is installed (the Platform Base should be fairly level with a slight tilt back so any AC condensation drips outside). This lower section of PVC with the foot can be removed and stored separately for ease of transport when travelling.

Now that all parts have been made and the glue has dried, it’s time to test the system!  Open the rear window, place the pipe foam all around the window, insert the Inner Sandwich Plate/Inner Window Frame into position, insert the bolts, and use wing nuts to secure the Outer Sandwich Plate against the Inner Sandwich Plate/Inner Window Frame.  From the outside rear of the trailer, put the Platform Base in position and then plug the PVC leg into the PVC T Connector on the Platform Base.  Secure the PVC Platform Foot to the trailer’s bumper with a Velcro Strap.  Then, using a helper (to help lift the weight of the AC) inside the trailer, slide the AC into the Interior Frame.  Everything should be very secure and stable.  Add strip insulation as necessary so no sky can be seen when looking at the AC from inside the trailer.  Plug in the AC into the trailer’s 110V outlet (need electric hookups) and let it run to make sure it cools properly.  If everything runs great, remove the AC with a partner, take the assembly apart, and then paint all the wood components (I used glossy White to match our Scamp 13’s glossy white finish).  Now, the only thing left is to plan your summer trips and don’t forget to pack the AC!

Note:  We had the opportunity to use this new AC system in very hot weather (see upcoming Adventure article on the Central Sierra).  The AC performed exceedingly well in over 100 degree weather, chilling down the Scamp so well that blankets were pulled from the closet!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.