Posts Tagged :

scamp

How to use Magnets to Create a Comfy Dry Bath

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How to use Magnets to Create a Comfy Dry Bath

***WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD – Small parts (magnets). Keep away from children and pets.***
***WARNING: Magnetic Field – magnetic fields may interfere with pacemakers / other health devices.***

After you have converted your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone (see “How to Turn Your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone” if you haven’t done this already), turn toward magnets for a better way to secure your shower curtain to the walls rather than using hooks.

We initially used plastic hooks attached to the wall with Velcro in our Scamp to secure the shower curtain so we could pull it across the front of the toilet area to keep it dry while showering.  However, after using this system for a while, it became frustrating because the shower curtain often would slide off the hooks.

While considering a number of different approaches, the idea of using small magnets to quickly attach the shower curtain to the side of the wall stood out.  I have worked with small rare earth magnets on numerous projects in the past for securing hatches in model aircraft, so I felt comfortable that they might work well for this application.

The basic approach is to use the existing PVC rod in the Scamp (above the inside of the bathroom door used to hold the door curtain) to secure the door side of the curtain by putting a ring on it at the end.  Then, it’s just a matter of pulling the curtain across the toilet compartment and securing it on the other side of the wall with magnets (which quickly hold the curtain securely in place).  Because the Scamp has a rat fur type of headliner, the magnets are applied directly onto the fiberglass wall for a more secure attachment (top and bottom of the wall and along the wood door frame on door side).

I decided to use small inexpensive rare earth magnets which I purchased at Harbor Freight for less than $3 for a ten pack.  I ended up purchasing three packs (30 magnets) so I would have plenty of magnets to work with (remember, each connection uses a pair).

I chose to use hot glue to secure the magnets to the fiberglass because it is quick to apply and can easily be removed if necessary.  The downside is that the magnets can pop off if enough pressure is put on them. I purchased a mini glue gun at Michaels Art Supply for less than $3 along with some extra mini glue sticks.

I selected three mounting points at the top and bottom of the wall for the curtain to attach along with several points on the door frame to hold the curtain.  I used a pair of angled needle nose pliers to hold a magnet while I applied a bead of hot glue to the back and then, using the plier handles, pressed each magnet against the fiberglass (or wood) and held for a few seconds until the glue dried.  Installing the magnets is quick and easy!

To secure the shower curtain, just pull it across the toilet area and, using magnets, secure it to the wall along the areas where there are magnets glued to the Scamp’s fiberglass wall (and also along the wood door frame).  When the curtain isn’t in use, I leave enough magnets stuck to the door frame on one of the magnet locations so they are easy to reach when needed.  The idea is that the shower curtain is used when showering and then simply detached and rolled up and tucked on the door side when not in use.  You will find that this method works well for keeping the toilet area dry (along with the toilet paper).

We had a chance to vigorously test the new magnetic system on our recent 11 night trip from our home in San Diego to Lassen Volcanic National Park (see our recent trip report).  We found that the magnets work really well, but care needs to be taken when removing the magnets after showering to prevent the underlying magnets which are attached to the fiberglass wall from pulling off.  After a little experience, we learned that it’s best to slide the top magnet to the side rather than pull straight back.  When we adopted this approach, we stopped having any problems with magnets popping off.  However, when we returned from our trip, I glued secondary redundant magnets next to each magnet so that even if one pops off during a trip there are still plenty of magnet points to attach to.  9/4/2021 UPDATE:  I found the small round magnets pop off too easily from the fiberglass, so I switched to these bar magnets for the ones attached to the Scamp.  This seems to be much more secure.  Overall, we have found that this is an excellent solution to securing a shower curtain in the Scamp as it quickly creates a great comfy dry bath.

After doing everything in this article, you should have a reasonably dry toilet compartment after each shower!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

No Hookups, No Problem!

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No Hookups, No Problem!
While going through my pre-trip checklist (see my article “Use Checklists to Prevent Problems”) right before heading out to Yosemite a couple of weeks ago, I noticed our heavy duty surge protector hadn’t been used in a while.  The surge protector has been sitting in its cardboard box on the top shelf of our garage cabinets and collecting dust for some time.  In May 2021, we were fortunate to be able to stay within the park at Yosemite (Upper Pine Campground), but had to plan for no hookups as the Yosemite campsites don’t have any (which is often the case in National and State parks), so we didn’t need to take the surge protector.  During the trip, we used our 100W solar briefcase (two 50W panels) every day, and even though our campsite was mostly shaded, there was always enough sunlight to keep our Scamp’s batteries well charged.

Our campsite at Yosemite also lacked any other hookups (e.g. water and sewer).  However, there is a central dump station at the entrance of Upper Pines Campground and drinking water spigots at each bathroom.  We dumped on the way into the campground and used our Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution so that we didn’t need to move the Scamp all week!  I filled up our portable Grey tanks (four 5 gallon jugs) once during the week and drove them to the central dump early in the morning when there is little activity at the dump station and poured them out.  Filling our Fresh tanks was easy using our dolly and 6-gallon water jug.  The water spigot near our campsite was just a short walk away and the spigot had high pressure, so filling our Fresh jug was super-fast.  I made two or three water refill runs during our Yosemite stay.

Having had a chance to reflect back on the past year and a half since receiving our new Scamp 13’ using our trip log book (see my article “Take A Page From Star Trek and Log Your Travels”), I was surprised to realize how few times we actually used any types of hookups!  We sometimes used electrical and water hookups while staying in the driveways of family, but for the most part, our stays have mostly been at National and State parks where no hookups were provided.  And, these stays have usually been at locations where central dump stations and water spigots were available and our solar panels (along with our Jackery 500) served to maintain a sufficient charge on our Scamp battery.

Along with solar panels, we rely heavily on liquid Propane during most of our stays.  Propane does a great job of powering most of our appliances which can run on this gas.  Propane is efficient and can last a long time.  Appliances in our Scamp that can run off propane are the gas stove, refrigerator, furnace, and hot water heater.  The great thing about propane is that you can carry a lot of it (we always carry 2 Viking composite propane tanks) and it can be run without hookups.  One tank can usually last us over 10 days even in very cold weather when we run our furnace.  One just has to take care to follow proper safety protocols when running propane.  Small travel trailers are usually outfitted with combination carbon monoxide/propane detector alarms; the one in our 2020 Scamp 13’ is located near the front door under one of the dinette seats.  It’s essential that every small travel trailer have one of these alarms because carbon monoxide and propane gas exposure can be lethal.

After almost two years of travelling with our Scamp 13’ to mostly State and National parks, we’ve learned that during our stays water is usually available via spigot (or it can be brought in containers) and electricity can most often be provided by the Sun using solar panels (assuming good weather).  We’ve noticed that the Scamp’s electricity demands are not high (especially if using a battery bank, such as the Jackery 500 in which to run non-essential tasks like watching the 12V television and charging devices like phones, cameras, etc.) and propane can also be used to alleviate electricity demand by powering our refrigerator.  And, lastly, we’ve learned we can extend our time between trips to the Dump Station by as much as 5 or 6 days by using portable containers to hold Grey Water.  Ultimately, it’s the Black and Grey tanks that force us to a Dump Station (see my article “Why It’s Smart to be a Zen Boondocker….”).

So, instead of steering clear of campgrounds without hookups, embrace them and expand your options for adventures.  And, once you understand the constraints of your small travel trailer, you can plan your trips so that Dump Station stops occur when you need them (such as every five or six days), allowing you to stay in one place longer and more easily (by using portable Grey Tank containers which can be dumped independently of your trailer).  Happy Camping!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Drones 101:  Elevate Your Game with Awesome Aerial Camping Images

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Drones 101:  Elevate Your Game with Awesome Aerial Camping Images

Aerial imagery (both still and video) can give your camping snapshots serious dramatic impact by providing a bird’s eye point of view of your subject.  Whether you want to take an image of your small travel trailer from 200 feet up looking straight down on it or capture a coastal view from the air, a small drone can easily provide this capability.  Just remember to check the local rules before you launch to make sure your drone flight is legal and safe.  Although drones are prohibited at all National Parks in the United States, there are still many camping locations where drones are allowed.

I’ve personally built and flown numerous drones over the past five years (from very large to small) and my favorite recommendation thus far for anyone who wants a drone for their small travel trailer adventures is the DJI Mavic Mini (or Mavic Mini 2).  I like this drone the most because it is very small (folds up and fits into a very small travel case), is very quiet (discreet when flying), has very long flight time on a single battery (around 30 minutes), and is extremely stable and easy to fly.  You do need to verify that your smartphone is compatible with the Mavic Mini as it’s necessary to run the flight software used to fly the drone.  Most modern smartphones will be compatible, but it’s easy to check online on various websites or by contacting DJI directly.  As a side note, DJI support has been excellent.  My first Mavic Mini had a malfunction and flew into a mountain and DJI replaced the drone after analyzing the flight data.  I was flying at a very high altitude location in the mountains (around 8,000 feet above sea level) which may have been a factor.

There are a lot of Mavic Mini reviews and videos online, so I won’t give a full review here.  I’ll just say that the Mavic Mini is very easy to fly and uses GPS to provide a very precise flying experience.  The flight software also checks to see if drones are legal and safe to fly at your location and will warn you if there are any issues.  Additionally, if one gets into trouble, the Mavic Mini can come back to you with just a push of the “return to home” failsafe button.  The drone can also auto takeoff and land.  And, features like battery indicator showing remaining flight time and continuous video feed (allowing first person view flying from the phone screen) make for a tremendous flying experience.

The Mavic Mini is a fantastic drone for taking photos and video.  The 2.7K high resolution drone camera is mounted on a three-axis motorized gimbal which keeps the camera stabilized at all times (with the exception of strong winds).  This means that images and video will be super sharp.  And taking still images or video is as simple as tapping on a button on the drone’s flight controller.  Once your drone has landed, the images / video can be instantly viewed and downloaded onto the smartphone and, if desired, uploaded to Instagram (providing mobile data is available).

I recommend getting the Mavic Mini (Original or 2) in the “fly more combo” package which comes with three battery packs.  If price isn’t a factor, the Mavic Mini 2 is the most recent version and has many improvements which include ability to fly in heavier wind and longer range.  But, even the original Mavic Mini (which I own) will be more than capable for taking awesome aerial images and video.

I always make sure to fully charge the batteries and load the Mavic Mini into our Scamp (in a storage compartment over dinette) before we leave on any trip.  When I arrive at the campsite, I always ask neighbors around our trailer if it would be ok if I made a short flight to take some aerial images of our trailer and campsite (assuming flights are allowed at the campground).  I’ve never encountered anyone objecting and I also usually offer to email campground neighbors aerial images of their trailers too after the flight (many fellow campers are really pleased when I do this).  Before I fly, I scout out the area and think about what types of images would be interesting.  I make sure there is very little wind since the Mavic Mini is very light (less than 250 grams and, in turn, exempt from FAA registration).  I often like views of our Scamp from a side down angle and ones looking straight down onto the Scamp from directly above.  I also like views looking across a big meadow at the Scamp if that’s available (or using tall mountains as a backdrop).  Another interesting viewpoint is from out over the ocean / lake looking back at the campground.  There are so many possibilities with aerial photography!  Give it a try and experiment.  Most importantly though, always fly safely and be respectful of the laws, campground rules, neighbors (including animals), and your surroundings.

I try to leave a small footprint when I fly – meaning, I don’t fly too low above anyone or campsites to keep noise from being an issue and I try to make sure the drone isn’t too visible (which is easy since the Mavic Mini is so small and quiet).   I always make sure the area is safe to fly and there are no major or hidden obstacles (like wires) which could be a problem.  Although I monitor my flight time, the Mavic Mini will let you know when it’s time to return to base.  When I’m done for the day, I usually fully recharge my batteries with our Jackery 500 inside the Scamp (this can take some time).

If you are careful and follow the above guidelines, you will no doubt be rewarded with some very dramatic imagery which will be sure to impress!

Click to Buy Original Mavic Mini – Fly More Combo with 3 Batteries

Click to Buy Mavic Mini 2  Fly More Combo with 3 Batteries

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

UnderGlow Your Travel Trailer!

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UnderGlow Your Travel Trailer!

One of the coolest purely unnecessary things we’ve done to our Scamp has been to add an underglow LED lighting kit!  It’s not necessary, but almost essential!

We installed the kit by MicTuning 4 POD RGBW LED Rock Light kit which has 4 LED pods.  Given the small size of the Scamp trailer (13’), we’ve found that 4 LED PODS are enough to underlight the entire trailer.  There are kits with more lights for larger trailers / vehicles, but this kit will work well for small trailers.

The kit comes with all the lights and cables necessary.  All that needs to be done is to attach cables to the trailer battery, test the system by installing the MicTuning phone app, and then mount the LED pods and cabling on the trailer frame.  Our friend Jon has a 3D printer and made some custom mounts that we glued strong rare earth magnets into, allowing the mounts to magnetically attach to the trailer frame.  He also made some magnetic brackets to hold the cables against the trailer frame.  As a precaution, we also secured the cable with Gorilla tape in select areas just in case a magnetic mount fails.  We’ve driven with the magnetic mounts over 2,000 miles to date and they haven’t detached or moved from their position on the trailer.  The kit does come with standard mounts and these should be satisfactory for mounting the PODS.  Or, other custom methods could be used to secure the LED PODS on the trailer.

The Scamp trailer in itself looks futuristic, with its all-white glossy finish and egg shape (along with the HD antenna on the roof).  However, lighting up the underside at night makes the Scamp look like a spaceship!  People really notice it, and often oohs and aahs can be heard at the campsite!  With the Bluetooth MicTuning app, the color of the lighting can be easily changed with just a tap on your phone screen.  There is even a music mode that will strobe the lights in sync with the music playing on your phone!  We’ve used these lights various times. On our first trip to Anza-Borrego State Park, it was so dark at night that it was really hard to find one’s way back to their trailer after dinner.  Having the lights on made our Scamp easy to find and weren’t offensive since they glow down toward the ground.  Be aware that one should not drive with the lights on as they could be distracting to other drivers and it is likely illegal in most, if not all, areas.

At a low cost and a high Wow! Factor, we highly recommend these LED ROCK lights!  Light kit, liked it!

Buy Here On Amazon

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

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Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

There are enough details in taking out your small travel trailer that, unless you use checklists, you will inevitably have problems.  The veteran campers we’ve talked with invariably insist on using checklists.  Checklists help you avoid major issues such as driving off with underinflated tires, stabilizer bars still on ground, the hitch coupler not properly attached to the ball, etc. ……..  Pilots use checklists all the time because of the high number of critical systems.  In addition to a prelaunch checklist, maintaining separate checklists for other things [such as trip supplies and how to operate various utilities on your trailer] provide additional benefits.  We created a supply checklist after our last trip to Mammoth Lakes, where we really needed our solar panel, but it was inadvertently left in our garage!

You can create a checklist using just a pencil and paper if you want or on your computer using a word processing program.  We use a free app called Color Checklist which is on the Google Play store.  It’s nice in that you can keep it on your phone and it actually has check boxes and check marks!  It’s important that you can have the checklist in hand wherever you are.  Here’s our main checklist which we use whenever we are going to depart from home or the campground:

Scamp check list for Leaving site (opposite when arriving)

  • Fuel SUV to FULL TANK
  • Add Fresh water if going to non-hookup site or 50% if just wanting to use water on drive
  • Dump Black & Grey tanks
  • Remove tire boot lock, coupler lock, hitch lock, and tire leveler wedge
  • Raise stabilizer bars.
  • Trailer tires psi 48  / Volvo SUV @ 40 psi
  • Attach X cross safety chains
  • Attach wiring harness
  • Raise center Jack to Clear ball and lower on ball
  • Lower and lock coupler on ball
  • Close LP (liquid propane) tanks
  • All switches off
  • Close / latch windows
  • Secure power cord outside outlet cover
  • If you have 54″ bed,  put additional table support on floor
  • Close fan
  • Turn off water heater breaker, 110v Water Heater switch.  Make sure switches are off – Gas Water heater water switch and demand pump for Fresh Tank.
  • Check laundry line is inside trailer.
  • Check trailer lights
  • Refrigerator on 12V for driving (120V or LP at campsite with no hookups).
  • Lock Scamp door
  • Disconnect wiring harness from SUV when not driving to prevent car battery drain.
  • Check Scamp voltage when SUV hooked up and running – should be over 12.5V.
  • [When storing after trip, drain Fresh tank by opening valve under dinette seat – water will drain under trailer, drain Hot Water Heater tank (plug on outside of trailer under metal cover), and dump Black and Grey tanks.]

Here is our Scamp Supply Checklist  (note:  we leave many items in the Scamp such as plates, cups, and utensils so we don’t need to pack them every trip):

  • Food & water
  • Empty Water Jug / Dolly
  • Down jackets
  • Hiking Boots
  • Hats & Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Umbrella
  • Foam mattress topper
  • Outdoor floor mat
  • Solar panel (when applicable)
  • Shower & kitchen towels
  • TP & paper towels
  • Pots & pans with lids
  • Measuring cup and strainer
  • Pancake mix and maple syrup
  • Chocolate
  • Jackery 500 generator (for powering battery devices)
  • Camera and drone
  • Broom
  • Lawn chairs
  • Rain gear
  • Wet vac
  • Kayak (when applicable)
  • Campground surge protector
  • Scamp water supplies (e.g. hose, pressure regulator, water filter, 90 degree brass fitting)
  • Rubber gloves (for dump)
  • Toilet sanitizers
  • Hand sanitizers

Our additional checklists for operating the Scamp water pump, water heater, furnace, and refrigerator.  The procedures on these lists could vary since various model utilities are used in Scamp production.

Scamp On Demand Water Pump Checklist (used when not attached to City Water to pressurize system)

  • Make sure Fresh water tank is full before turning on
  • Only use when not attached to City water
  • Turn switch off when not in Scamp or Fresh tank is near empty (then fill tank before using water)

Scamp Water Heater Checklist (auto start)

  • Runs on 120V or LP
  • Hook up to City Water (or Fresh water see below)
  • Turn on hot water at faucet
  • When water comes out at sink, hot water heater is full with water (important to fill so water heater tank doesn’t burn)
  • If City water is not available, fill Fresh water tank, turn on demand pump, turn on hot water at sink until water comes out
  • For electric operation, turn on 120V breaker and then turn on 120V Water heater switch
  • For LP operation, open LP tank and then turn ON small rocker switch (down on our model) and light will momentarily come on.  No temperature controls.  (Uses electricity to start automatically)
  • Water heater can be left on until leaving camp (although we shut ours off at night after showers)

Scamp Furnace Checklist (auto start)

  • Uses both electric to start and run fan and LP to operate
  • Turn LP tank on, Turn on Furnace switch
  • Set thermostat to desired temp
  • Fan will start, Igniter will click
  • Furnace will light
  • Turn off LP tank if there is a sulfur smell
  • Turn on stove using lighter and run several minutes to bleed lines if Furnace doesn’t start

Scamp Refrigerator Checklist

  • 3 Way model — 120V, 12V, LP
  • Open outside vent to select power source (lower front panel on our Scamp 13′)
  • Three switches (Green 120V, Red 12V, Knob is LP) — ONLY ONE POWER SOURCE AT ONE TIME!
  • For driving — use the 12V Red switch
  • For hookup camping — use the 120V Green switch
  • For dry camping with no hookups — use the Knob for LP
    • Open LP tank valve first
    • Set gas thermostat to high on wheel>depress wheel knob>push red igniter button repeatedly and quickly multiple times while holding down wheel knob.  Keep knob depressed for 15 seconds.  Check to see pilot flame.  High setting is coolest.  If having trouble lighting, turn off knob and run stove burners in kitchen for a couple minutes to bleed gas line and then try again.
    • Set thermostat to 4 or 5 or higher if opening door frequently.

      Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.