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multimeter

How to Replace a 7-Way Flat Pin Socket Connector on Your Tow Vehicle

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How to Replace a 7-Way Flat Pin Socket Connector on Your Tow Vehicle

On our last trip, the plastic flap covering our tow vehicle’s 7-way hitch socket connector broke.  This doesn’t seem like a big deal, but without the flap, the trailer cable won’t stay in the socket since it relies on the flap’s flange to keep it in place while driving.  While we were descending a steep hill on our final leg home, our 2020 Volvo XC40’s brakes began to pump.  We had never heard this noise before, and then at about the same time an orange warning light lit up indicating a failure with the trailer cable connection.  We pulled over and found that our Scamp 13’s cable had pulled out.  This would explain the noise of the Volvo’s brakes working hard, since our Scamp’s brakes were disconnected.  The trailer cable is essential for the operation of the trailer’s brake and safety light system,  powering the trailer’s turn signal lights, brake lights, hazard lights, running lights, and also activating the trailer’s brakes. When the connector broke, all of these critical features no longer worked.  Fortunately, we had some zip ties which we used for a temporary fix to get us home.

I called Volvo when we returned home and was told that the connector is molded into the entire Volvo wiring harness and they don’t sell just a replacement flap.  They said the only way to fix it with Volvo parts is to replace the entire wiring harness, and the harness cost would be $167 plus labor!  This seemed to be a very high cost for just a broken plastic flap replacement.  Our 2020 Volvo XC40 has been a reliable workhorse for us, and I wanted to find a simple inexpensive solution to fix the broken flap.  Since we sometimes do off road boondocking, we wouldn’t want to have to replace the entire wiring harness any time the little plastic flap breaks.  Fortunately, I was able to find another solution at a fraction of the cost.  This inexpensive 7-way socket and mini harness currently sells for around $17 on Amazon.  I was easily able to replace the broken Volvo 7-way socket connector with this new connector by joining this new mini harness to the existing Volvo wiring harness.

This new 7-way flat pin socket connector should work with most tow vehicles as long as the wiring colors/pin locations are the same as the existing vehicle’s wiring harness colors/pin locations.  To make sure everything works well, the first thing to do is test the continuity of each of the new connector’s 7 wires (with a continuity tester) to verify that the wiring and pin locations are identical by color to the tow vehicle wiring.  If each of the wire colors is continuous with the same pin locations on the new connectors as the tow vehicle’s 7-way socket connector, everything should work great.   I noticed on our Volvo, the center pin wire on the Volvo wiring harness is purple, but the center pin wire on the new connector harness is red.  So, I just had to connect the purple wire to the red wire so the Volvo continues to send the correct signal to the center pin of the new 7-way socket connector.  All the other wire colors/pin locations on our Volvo’s old connector did correspond to the new connectors’ wire colors/pin locations.

Once confirming wire colors and pin locations are matched, I verified that our Scamp cable plugs securely into the new 7-way socket connector.  I then clipped the wires from the existing Volvo 7-way socket connector, unbolted it and removed it from its mount.   Once removed, I also verified its wire colors and pin locations with a continuity tester.  I then attached the new 7-way socket and mini harness to the Volvo’s existing wiring harness, making sure to pull the new mini harness through the mounting hole before making the connections.  I stripped each wire and then used the provided preinstalled butt connectors to join each of the wires (by color, except for the purple/red combination).  For the white wire, I used a WAGO connector to connect the two white wires since the white wire on the original harness is already grounded (I just clipped the circular grounding connector from the white wire on the new mini harness and joined it to the white wire on the Volvo wiring harness).  After the wires were all connected, I mounted the new connector with the existing bolts and tucked the wiring harness up behind the bumper (and used Gorilla tape to help keep it in place).

To test the system, I connected the Scamp’s trailer cable to the tow vehicle and ran the Volvo’s automated trailer lights check.  I observed all lights working properly.  The key to doing this installation successfully is to make sure to correctly match each of the wires to the proper flat pin locations.

Project Supplies and Tools:

  1. Anto 7 Way Trailer Plug: https://amzn.to/3xXw11z
  2. WAGO 221 Connectors: https://amzn.to/3Nn2Hr8
  3. Wire stripper:   https://amzn.to/3M6CyME
  4. Continuity Test: https://amzn.to/39T82J7
  5. Gorilla Tape:  https://amzn.to/3Nh6y9a

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

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Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

After a year of trips with our Scamp 13’ (33 nights, 23 locations, 7 trips), we’ve gained a good understanding of how the trailer functions and which accessories provide added benefit.  Because our adventures often involve locations without electricity (such as some State and National parks and boondocking campsites), one excellent solution we implemented is a solar panel system.  The system ensures that our small travel trailer has the power needed to run the most essential functions (e.g. indoor LED lights, water pumps, heater, fans, and perhaps an electric tongue jack).  Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC).

The trailer’s battery is usually around 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to keep the trailer’s battery charge level above 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity).  A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor the trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install a SeeLevel II system when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs voltage monitors on its 2021 models).  There are aftermarket voltage monitors that simply plug into the 12 volt DC port in the trailer.  Here’s one with a BLUE display and here’s one with a RED display.

We’ve found that a basic 100W solar briefcase (two 50W solar panels which fold up on each other into a briefcase when not in use) is all that is necessary to provide enough power for essential systems in our Scamp 13’ (as long as the camper has sun exposure every few days).  The solar briefcase is nice because it is relatively light and can fit in the back of the tow vehicle when not in use.  We use an auxiliary battery power bank, a Jackery 500, for charging our phones, cameras, drone, and television when boondocking to reserve all of our Scamp’s 12V battery power for essential devices/functions.

The items needed to create a reliable solar system for your small travel trailer are:

  1. High quality 100W solar briefcase (monocrystalline)
  2. 2 pin waterproof male/female connector for the plastic battery box (houses the trailer battery)
  3. 20 foot solar extension cables
  4. 50 foot solar extension cables
  5. Solar crimper tool
  6. 12AWG (thickness) Wire (about 12 inches black / 12 inches red)
  7. Solar panel cable connectors
  8. Solar panel connector assembly tool
  9. Multi-meter Tester
  10. Portable Power Station

Update Sept. 2022:  after a few years, the bag that came with our solar panels split apart (it was always too small and difficult to deal with).  Here’s a much better bag!  Also, we’ve found having 50 foot cables which can extend the 20 foot cables to be a great option when the campsite is in shade most of the time and the longer cables can get the solar panels out into the sun!

Monocrystalline solar panels have the highest efficiency rates (more power per square foot) and perform best in low light conditions, so that’s the type we chose and we’ve been very pleased with the performance.  Make sure you choose a solar panel briefcase which comes with a charge controller.  The charge controller will keep your small travel trailer’s battery from overcharging.  On a recent trip to Joshua Tree National Park, we were down to 12.3 volts one morning.  As soon as the solar panels were plugged into the battery, the power registered 13.6 volts and maintained that steady voltage through most of the day.  When the solar panels were unplugged at sunset, the Scamp battery registered 12.7 volts (100% charge)!  We were staying at a Boondockers Welcome location without any hookups and relied on our Jackery 500 to charge our phones and other non-essential devices (including watching TV at night).  So, as long as there is sun every few days, the solar panel setup will keep the small travel trailer battery charged almost indefinitely!

Once you have the items needed to create your solar system, you will need to connect everything together.  Solar panel briefcases which come with charge controllers usually have a couple of metal clips on the end of each cable (black and red) which attach the solar panel cables directly to the small travel trailer battery (similar to the clips on car jumper cables, by clipping on to the red and black terminals of the battery).  Sometimes these clips are attached directly to the cables coming out of the solar controller and in other cases are separate and have connectors that plug into cable connectors coming out of the charge controller.  In any case, it is cumbersome to use the clips if your small travel battery is covered by a plastic housing box (like with our Scamp 13’).  We would have to take our plastic battery housing on and off each time we used the solar panels if we used the clips.  So, to make things easy, use a waterproof 2 pin male female connector port on the case.  Before installing onto the plastic battery case cover, some black and red 12AWG wires need to be soldered onto the inside port half, and ring terminals crimped onto the ends of the wires so they can connect to the trailer battery (Ring Terminal 12-10 Crimp Connectors, 5/16” Home Depot).  (If you are not familiar with soldering, either have a friend do it or hire an expert.  Otherwise, skip this step and just use the clips directly onto your battery terminals and omit the battery port.)  Once the inside port half has its cables, drill an appropriately sized hold in the plastic battery case cover and mount the port (the outside piece of the port screws into the inside piece to hold it in position on the case).  Then, screw down the ring terminals to the red and black battery terminals and close the battery housing box.  The last step is to solder the outside male connector (which plugs into the battery port) to the 20’ solar extension cables.

Depending on how the solar briefcase is configured, it might be beneficial to create two short cables (red/black) with the 12AWG wire and add MC4 connectors at the end which the 20’ solar extension cables can plug into (they should already have MC4 connectors on them, sometimes male on Black and female on Red).  Some solar briefcases are already configured with these short cables and connectors and it’s important to understand which connectors are male and which are female so they plug in appropriately.  Having short cables connected to the charge controller will allow the solar briefcase to be folded with the short cables still attached to the charge controller.  With this setup, all one needs to do when arriving at the campsite is open and position the solar panels, lay out the solar extension cable, and then join the connectors at the solar panels and plug the other end of the solar extension cable into the small travel trailer’s battery port.

It may be helpful to have a digital multimeter to check there is continuity from one end of the extension cables to the other and also to verify power is coming out of the extension cable at the male side of the port.  On my first attempt, no power was coming out of my extension cable.  So, I tested the continuity of the cable using the meter (makes a tone when the connection is continuous).  I found that one of the factory installed connectors wasn’t making a good connection and, after I reinstalled the connector, everything worked great!  You can also tell right away if your system is working just by checking your voltage.  If everything is good, the sun is out, and the panels are plugged into the system, the voltage will go up to the 13 voltage range right away (almost like the trailer is plugged into an electrical outlet).

Once you discover solar and how effective it is, you will never want to leave home without it!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.