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Small Travel Trailer Mini Air Conditioner Mount for Rear Window (Temporary)

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Small Travel Trailer Mini Air Conditioner Mount for Rear Window (Temporary)
***Remove AC When Travelling – this is a temporary setup just for use when parked!***

When we purchased our 2020 Scamp 13’, we knew we wanted to store it in our garage for many reasons (see “Why and How We Fit Our Scamp in the Garage”).  However, when we placed our order from the Scamp factory, we didn’t order the AC (but did order the reinforced roof for AC just in case situations changed, see “Ordering Our 2020 Scamp”).  This is because, even after raising our garage height from 7 to 8 feet, our new Scamp would have been too tall to clear the garage opening with the factory rooftop air conditioner.  So, we figured we would just plan trips to take hot weather into account.  And, this strategy has worked really well over the past couple of years (there have only been a few times when AC would have really come in handy — see “No AC, No Problem“).  Ultimately though, we have found that when heading to mountain lakes in the summer months, we need to make stops a bit out of our way or drive non-stop to cross the hot parts of California (e.g. Central Valley or Mojave Desert) to beat the heat.  These heat avoidance workarounds have meant taking less efficient longer routes or very long rides straight to our destination.

When looking for solutions (including more streamlined rooftop AC models), we came to realize that we only needed AC mostly in the summer months (and, even then, only on specific trips).  Rooftop ACs are most convenient — however, they are also relatively expensive (including requiring installation expense, unless you can do that yourself), moderately heavy (sometimes creating roof sag on fiberglass trailers), and can be costly to replace when necessary.  Additionally, even the low profile units we found looked to have questionable clearance to fit in our garage.  Taking into account all these factors, we decided that a temporary removable window AC unit would be perfect for our requirements (e.g. inexpensive, easy to install on a temporary basis, lightweight, and also cheap to replace when necessary).  We also wouldn’t have to carry around the heavier weight of a permanently mounted rooftop AC on every trip (including winter trips).  The goal of this project is to create a stable platform to temporarily and quickly mount the window AC unit when at the campsite (removed for driving) which won’t damage the trailer (e.g. window or fiberglass window frame) and provide insulation against insects and weather.

After considerable research and reviews of different window AC units and also various methods people have used to secure a window AC inside their fiberglass travel trailer’s window, I decided to buy a small Frigidaire (FFRE053WAE) 5,000 BTU unit for room sizes up to 150 square feet (more than sufficient to cool the Scamp 13’s less than 80 square feet of interior living space).  It’s inexpensive (currently around $210 on Amazon), small (16” wide, 12 1/16” high, and 13 3/16” deep), lightweight (43lbs on my scale), rated at only 50db noise level, energy efficient and very well reviewed.  Additionally, others have reported using this unit successfully to cool their small fiberglass travel trailers.  It’s among the smallest and lightest window AC units available and ranks as one of the top brands on Consumer Reports.

Every small fiberglass travel trailer is different and weight tolerances vary.  Anyone attempting to undertake this project should understand there are no guarantees when installing a window AC unit in their fiberglass travel trailer’s window.  Damage is a possibility if the trailer’s fiberglass cannot handle the weight of the window AC (this may be especially relevant for older trailers).  However, many people have used window ACs in their small fiberglass travel trailers for years without incident.  Additionally, even some fiberglass travel manufactures have mounted ACs in windows throughout the years.  Taking all this into consideration and wanting to be extra cautious, I decided on using a wood platform and foot brace under the AC (even though it’s fairly light) which helps distribute some of the AC’s weight onto the Scamp’s bumper (which is welded to the trailer’s frame).  This is designed to reduce strain on the fiberglass window frame.  To protect the window, black pipe foam (like a pool noodle) is used around all edges of the window frame.

I spent around $210 for the window AC unit and $100 for materials for a project total of roughly $310 (I didn’t include the $130 I spent for tools in this total because I will use these tools for years on other projects as well).  So, for just a few hundred dollars (perhaps the cost of a hotel room for one or two nights), this system should provide a small travel trailer years of air conditioning relief on hot days.

The tasks to complete this project can be performed in three stages as outlined below.  The listed measurements apply to our 2020 Scamp 13’ trailer but can easily be modified for other trailers and ACs with different sizes.

Stage 1:  Planning
Measure the rear window opening to determine if there is enough width and height to mount the desired AC model (comparing to the desired AC’s dimensions).  If necessary, it may be possible to cut out a portion or remove the rubber window stop entirely to get the window to open more completely.

Stage 2:  Shopping
I decided to purchase a lot of the items for this project online.  However, I purchased the plywood (as well as PVC) at Home Depot so their staff could do most of the cutting for me at no charge (they only do straight cuts though).  Here’s the item list I compiled to complete the project:

a.  Purchase window AC unit (Frigidaire Window AC Model #FFRE053WAE)
b.  Purchase plywood (and, if you want, have it cut at a big box store like Home Depot or Lowes)

    1. One 4’ x 4’ x ½” thick (or 15/32” thick) panel
    2. One 2’ X 2’ x ¾” thick panel

c.  Purchase Tools (if needed)

    1. Belt Sander (to round corners), extra sand paper for belt sander
    2. Jig Saw (to cut plywood), extra blades for jig saw
    3. Drill
    4. Electric Screwdriver
    5. 5/16” Drill bit (for hex bolts holding Sandwich Plates together)
    6. 3/32” Drill bit (pilot holes)
    7. 2.5” Spring Clamps (6)

d.  Purchase Hardware

    1. #6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Zinc Plated Wood Screws (100 pack)
    2. #6 x 3/8” flat head zinc plated Phillips wood screws (25 pack)
    3. Zinc Plated Hex Bolts x 5 (3 top, 2 bottom) ¼” -20 4” long
    4. Plated Wing Nut (4 pack) ¼” -20 x 2 packs (need 5)
    5. PVC Pipe 1”x 10’ White PVC
    6. PVC T Connectors for 1” diameter PVC x 2
    7. PVC End Caps for 1” diameter PVC x 3
    8. Black Pipe Foam 1” x 6’
    9. Wood glue Gorilla
    10. White (Glossy) Spray Paint (paint/primer) x 2 cans
    11. 2-Hole Pipe Hanger Straps 1” (4 pack) PVC brackets
    12. Velcro Strap (1)

Stage 3:  Construction (also refer to video)
Safety:  Always wear safety glasses for eye protection when working with power tools.

Interior Window Frame:
The purpose of the Interior Window Frame is to provide a stable space for the AC to be positioned into as well as protect the travel trailer’s window frame (so the AC doesn’t sit directly on the fiberglass).  The AC sits inside the Interior Window Frame (on a wooden platform) which sits against protective foam which surrounds the window (although there wasn’t enough window opening space on my Scamp 13’, even after removing a section of window stop, so no pipe foam was put on the outer side of the window  – though I added insulation on the AC interior to fill the gaps).  So whatever AC is used, it’s vital that the frame be large enough for the AC to fit inside it (but not too large, so the frame still fits snugly inside the rear window and doesn’t leave a big air gap).

It may be difficult to cut long lengths of wood with a jigsaw perfectly, so I recommend that, unless one has a circular saw, have a store like Home Depot make all the straight wood cuts.  The jig saw is absolutely fantastic and easy though for making the curved corner cuts (as well as the belt sander to smooth out the curves).  In this project, just the corners need to be rounded and the middle section of each sandwich plate needs to be cut out)

a.  Top & Bottom:  Cut two 16.5” long x 2.5” wide x .75” thick pieces of plywood
Carefully drill 5/16” holes (evenly spaced top and bottom) through the center of the .75” thick pieces, drilling through the entire 2.5” width so 4” hex bolts can pass through.  Three top holes 2” from each edge and one in the middle (all centered on frame), two holes in bottom corners 2” from each edge (a drill press makes this easier, I borrowed one from a neighbor)
b.  Sides: Cut two 14.25” long x 2.5” wide x ½” thick  (I had Home Depot cut these)
c.  Add wood glue onto ends of Top & Bottom pieces
d.  Position sides over the ends of these pieces
e.  Use #6 x 1” Phillips Zinc Plated Wood Screws (8) to join top, bottom and sides (use 3/32” bit for pilot holes if desired, otherwise just apply some pressure to start the screw into the side)
f.  Cut Black Pipe Foam and pad all sides of the rear window opening
g.  Once the square Interior Window Frame is Glued/Screwed together, position it in the rear window of trailer to make sure it fits. Remove a section of rubber window stop (see video) and/or use belt sander to round outside corners if it is too tight to fit.  The side window foam may also be removed if it is still too tight to fit the Interior Window Frame inside the trailer’s window (insulating foam can be pushed into gaps later when setting up at the campsite if necessary).
h.  Slide the square Interior Window Frame over the back of the AC to make sure it can slide almost all the way to the front of the AC (it should stop about an inch from the front due to protruding flanges on the AC).
i.  Fit the square Window Frame into the rear window (pipe foam will hold it in place)

Window Frame Sandwich Plates (Inner / Outer)
The purpose of the Window Frame Sandwich Plates is to hold the Interior Window Frame securely in place and provide insulation from insects and weather.

  1. Cut two 21” wide x 18” high x ½” thick pieces (I had Home Depot cut these)
  2. Trace round back outside window curves onto paper, apply by pencil to above pieces.
  3. Use the jigsaw and belt sander to round each outer window piece (watch video), also slightly round the window corners in the center of the trailer window to eliminate sharp points which can cause damage in transit
  4. Have a partner hold Outer Sandwich Plate in place over outside of rear window, completely covering the opening and level, and, on the inside of the trailer, use a pencil and mark the interior outline of the window frame on the inside of the Outer Sandwich Plate
  5. Use jigsaw to cut marked middle hole in Outer Sandwich plate (first start by drilling 5/16” holes in each corner so that the jigsaw blade may be inserted)
  6. Use outer Sandwich plate as template to mark middle hole position in Inner Sandwich Plate and use jigsaw to cut marked middle hole in Inner Sandwich Plate.
  7. Now, both Sandwich plates should have middle holes to allow the back of the AC to pass through
  8. Line up the Interior Window Frame with the Inner Sandwich Plate on a table and push a pencil through the 5/16” holes to mark the five holes in the top and bottom of the Interior Window Frame (3 marks on top and 2 marks on bottom). Then use these marks to drill 5/16” holes in both Sandwich Plates (using one as a template for the other).  These are for the hex bolts to pass through.
  9. Glue/screw (#6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Wood Screws x 12 – three on each side) to attach the Interior Window Frame to the inside of the Inner Sandwich Plate (make sure no parts of the plate rise above the Interior Window Frame opening so the AC will continue to pass through unobstructed)
  10. The five Zinc Plated Hex Bolts (six ¼”-20, 4” long) will go all the way through the two Sandwich Plates, and wing nuts on the outside of the Outer Sandwich Plate will hold both Sandwich Plates tightly against the Interior Window Frame (and the plates against the foam on the inside and outside of the trailer). This will hold the window frame assembly securely in position and prevent the AC from falling out of the trailer.
  11. Now assemble the complete window frame by bolting together the Inner (with the Interior Window Frame attached) and Outer Sandwich frames, securing the five hex bolts with ¼” -20 Plated Wing Nuts on the outside. Note:  I had to remove part of the rubber rear window stopper because the rear window didn’t open enough to allow the Interior Window Frame assembly to fit through the opening (at some point, on our Scamp, it didn’t help to keep removing pieces of the stopper because the window panel is eventually stopped from opening by the curve of the window.)  I also had to sand the outer upper and lower left hand (outer) corners of the Interior Window Frame round so the assembly would fit in the window.  It was too tight a fit even after taking these steps, so I needed to remove the outside side piece of pipe foam.  Insulating weather stripping comes with the AC and can be used at the campsite to temporarily fill any gaps

Platform Base
The purpose of the Platform Base is to help support the weight of the AC unit by using a PVC Leg and a PVC Foot to rest on top of the travel trailer bumper (which is welded to the Scamp trailer’s frame).

  1. Platform Base: Cut one 16” wide x 12” deep” x ½”  thick piece (I had Home Depot cut this)
  2. Use the jigsaw and belt sander to slightly round each corner of the Platform Base (for safety)
  3. Cut channels for underneath Platform Base: one 10” x 2.5” x ¾” thick (interior), one 6” x 2.5” x ¾” thick (exterior) (Home Depot can do this)
  4. Insert completed Interior Window Frame over pipe foam and then secure Outer Sandwich Plate to the Interior Sandwich Plate / Interior Window Frame with hex bolts and wing nuts
  5. Place Platform Base on top of the Interior Window Frame (so it doesn’t fall)
  6. Have a partner help position the AC inside the trailer (and someone outside to prevent the AC from falling out just in case) and put the AC on top of the Platform Base and hold the Platform Base in position as the AC back is pushed back inside the Interior Window Frame all the way until it stops (the outer flange protrusions on the AC should stop it from moving back when about a couple of inches of the interior control face is left inside the trailer). Adjust the Platform Base so it comes all the way out to the back end of the AC on the outside, as well as making sure the front AC feet are resting on it.
  7. With the AC nicely in position on the Platform Base, position the Channels (interior and exterior) on each side of the Interior Window Frame so they are against the Interior Window Frame’s bottom walls (inside and outside) and butted up on top against the underside of the Platform Base, not blocking the hex bolt holes, and mark these positions on the underside of the Platform Base (these markings will be where the Channels are glued and then screwed into the Platform Base)
  8. Remove the AC and entire assembly from the trailer
  9. Drill 3/32” pilot holes in the Platform Base (3 for the smaller exterior channel and 5 for the larger interior one, evenly spaced) up from the bottom of the Platform Base (inside the marked areas)
  10. Glue/screw (using #6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Zinc Plated Wood Screws) both Inside and Outside Channels underneath the Platform Base (using the pilot holes as a guide for screw locations), making sure no channel blocks the hex bolt holes
  11. Place the Platform Base on top of the Interior Window Frame so that it is held in place by the Outer and Inner Channels underneath the platform. It should fit perfectly, with the Channels snugly up against the Interior Window Frame
  12. PVC Platform Base and Foot: Cut three 6” lengths (with saw or PVC cutter) of the 1” PVC and plug two of them into one of the PVC T connectors and also install PVC Caps on each end (and repeat again, but only using one 6” length and cap for the foot)
  13. Set up the AC window mount assembly in the trailer window (with the Platform Base)
  14. Position the PVC under the wood platform so that the PVC Leg (once cut to size) will align the PVC Platform Foot (secured to the bumper with Velcro) with the travel trailer bumper and mark the positions of where the two 2-Hole Pipe Hanger Straps 1” should be mounted (and use the #6 x 3/8” wood screws (4) to mount the PVC Platform Base under the wood platform) (make sure to leave enough space so the wing nuts can still be installed/removed
  15. Cut a section of PVC to length so that the PVC leg will just come down to and rest on the bumper when the PVC Platform Foot is installed (the Platform Base should be fairly level with a slight tilt back so any AC condensation drips outside). This lower section of PVC with the foot can be removed and stored separately for ease of transport when travelling.

Now that all parts have been made and the glue has dried, it’s time to test the system!  Open the rear window, place the pipe foam all around the window, insert the Inner Sandwich Plate/Inner Window Frame into position, insert the bolts, and use wing nuts to secure the Outer Sandwich Plate against the Inner Sandwich Plate/Inner Window Frame.  From the outside rear of the trailer, put the Platform Base in position and then plug the PVC leg into the PVC T Connector on the Platform Base.  Secure the PVC Platform Foot to the trailer’s bumper with a Velcro Strap.  Then, using a helper (to help lift the weight of the AC) inside the trailer, slide the AC into the Interior Frame.  Everything should be very secure and stable.  Add strip insulation as necessary so no sky can be seen when looking at the AC from inside the trailer.  Plug in the AC into the trailer’s 110V outlet (need electric hookups) and let it run to make sure it cools properly.  If everything runs great, remove the AC with a partner, take the assembly apart, and then paint all the wood components (I used glossy White to match our Scamp 13’s glossy white finish).  Now, the only thing left is to plan your summer trips and don’t forget to pack the AC!

Note:  We had the opportunity to use this new AC system in very hot weather (see upcoming Adventure article on the Central Sierra).  The AC performed exceedingly well in over 100 degree weather, chilling down the Scamp so well that blankets were pulled from the closet!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

How to Replace Your Particle Board Table Bed in Your Small Travel Trailer

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How to Replace Your Particle Board Table Bed in Your Small Travel Trailer

I had wanted to replace our 2020 Scamp 13’ particle board table bed ever since we first received our new trailer directly from the Scamp factory about 12 months ago.  Lifting it up and down to make and unmake the bed was a real chore because of the table’s heavy weight.  And, our table actually has an additional smaller particle board piece because our Scamp 13’ has the bigger 54” bed.  The larger piece, which is the table, is 32 inches long x 29 ½” wide and weighs about 23 pounds with hardware.  The smaller piece, which is necessary for the extended bed support, is 20 inches long x 29 ½” wide and weighs about 12.4 pounds.   So, with both pieces stacked together, the table weighs over 35 pounds!!!  No wonder why I always had to wrestle with the table to lower and raise it!  Note:  weight is one of particle board’s ugly not-so-little secrets.

Because our Scamp 13’ is so new, I was hesitant to replace the factory table.  However, that all changed when the table deconstructed itself one day when I was lifting it up and back into position (structural weakness is another bullet point on particle board’s not so impressive resume).  As I was elevating the table to its upright position and sliding the thin metal brackets into their clamshell receptacles attached to the wall, one of the hardware fittings attached underneath the Scamp table ripped right out (all the screws and the particle board they were screwed into), leaving a big crater underneath the table!  I called Scamp and they told me it was probably time to replace the table.  Given that I didn’t like the weight of the now ruined table or the look of the faux wood grain, I decided it was time for an alternative.

I did some research and discovered that I wasn’t alone in wanting to replace at least some of the particle board in our small travel trailer.  Lots of campers do it to lighten the weight of their rigs.  I even wrote an article based on my research called “5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper”.  At this point, it was clear that the table breaking in our Scamp was actually a very good thing because it forced our hands to replace the particle board tables!

A very popular material choice for making tables in RVs which can also be used for bed support is ¾” lightweight plywood.  It’s strong, super light, and looks great!  It’s also widely available at home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s and it’s inexpensive.  Additionally, these stores can cut the plywood for you at a very low price (or possibly for free).  Be aware though, these stores will only make straight cuts, so if you want a table with rounded corners (like we did), you will need to make those cuts yourself or have someone else do it for you.  I did notice though that the saw blade used by the guy cutting our wood at Home Depot was likely dull because there was a lot of splintering of the edges of the plywood (he also didn’t tape the edges to prevent this from happening).  In the end, my builder brother-in-law Bobby not only did the rounded cuts for us, but also had to redo a lot of the Home Depot cuts to replace the damaged edges (fortunately we had a lot of extra plywood to work with in the 4’x8’ piece we purchased).

We chose Maple plywood (non-toxic version) which looks beautiful and has high dramatic impact when varnished with multiple coats of interior crystal clear high gloss polyurethane.  We purchased one piece of 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Maple Plywood at Home Depot for around $60.  Since we didn’t need nearly that much wood, I also measured our particle board stove cover and had pieces cut for its replacement.  As mentioned previously, the Home Depot cuts were a bit dirty, resulting in a lot of splintering.  Regardless, my brother-in-law Bobby redid some cuts, rounded the corners, and otherwise cleaned up the wood edges.  Once satisfied with all the pieces [main table 32” x 29.5”, smaller table 20” x 29.5”, and materials for the stove cover (Top 15” x 20”, Front/Back two of 3” x 20”, Sides two of 3” x 13.75”)], I glued the stove cover pieces together with white wood glue and let sit overnight and then applied the polyurethane varnish with three high gloss coats to the two tables and stove cover. The finish came out beautifully, with very high luster revealing the maple’s exquisite golden rippled grain patterns.

The next step after finishing the table top is removing the old table from the Scamp, which is fairly straightforward.  Before removing the existing table with hardware from the Scamp, I labeled both the left square metal bracket affixed to the wall and the square metal part above it which is attached underneath the table with an “L”, to keep the orientation the same when mounting to the new tabletop.  I used a square #2 screwdriver bit with my mini cordless screw driver to remove all 8 square head screws holding the folding table mechanism to the wall (don’t touch the metal clamshell pieces located at the table’s back edge against the wall below the window).   The table should stay standing up once you remove the square metal wall anchors because the top of the table is still held by the clamshell brackets and the front of the table is resting on its singular leg.  Now, to completely remove the table from the Scamp, just lift the front like you are making the bed so the thin brackets in back slide out of the clamshells.  It’s good to have help in holding the table, as you will also need to retract the table leg.  Once done, you can carefully remove the table from the Scamp.

Find an area on a carpet or smooth service and set the old Scamp table face down on the floor right next to the face down new table top (back edge to back edge so you can locate where to install the metal brackets into the new table).  I used blue painters tape and a tape measure to mark the exact locations for the brackets on the new table.  Remove the 8 square head screws holding the folding mechanism metal brackets to the old table and place them over the new table in the same location (and using the holes, mark each hole with a felt tipped pen).  Use a small diameter drill bit (smaller than the diameter of the screws) and wrap the drill bit to a length shorter than the screws with blue tape to ensure you don’t drill the pilot holes anywhere near through to the top of the table.  Drill shallow holes where you marked the dots.  Then, being careful to install the Left mount under the left side of the table; use your square #2 screwdriver bit with drill to slowly install the screws until they are tight (I also dipped the tip of each screw with white wood glue to prevent them from coming loose).  Now, remove the table leg from the old table with your screwdriver and position on your new table so it is in the exact same position.  Like before, drill pilot holes and then screw down the leg onto the new table.  Next, install the new table into the Scamp by slipping the back thin metal brackets into the clamshell receptacles and extending the table leg.  The table should stand by itself while you screw down the 8 square head screws attaching the metal brackets for the table folding mechanism back into the wall.

I weighed the tables after completing the project.  The new main table weighs 14.6 lbs. with varnish and hardware (compared to the particle board’s 23 lbs.) and the smaller table weighs 6.8 lbs. (compared to the particle board’s 12.4 lbs.); together the new plywood tables weigh 21.4 lbs., about 40% lighter than the original particle board factory tables which weighed in at 35.4 lbs. !!!  And, in addition from being so much nicer looking, the new maple plywood tables are much easier to raise and lower!  You will love your new light tables!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

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5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

Particle board is an engineered wood product made with wood chips and glue (synthetic resin).  The main reason manufacturers of small travel trailers use particle board for tables, countertops, doors, and drawers / cabinets is because it’s cheap.   Here are 5 reasons you may consider replacing particle board in your camper:

(1).  Particle board can be very heavy. It’s held together with glue (resin) and the weight can add up quickly.  We are in the process of replacing our 2020 Scamp 13’ table (actually two tables since we ordered the 54” bigger bed option) and we just weighed the smaller bed support table (20” long x 29.5” wide).  We used ¾” maple plywood purchased from Home Depot for our new table.  Our original particle board small table weighs 12.4 lbs., compared to our new fully varnished (high gloss interior polyurethane with 3 coats) small table at 6.8 lbs.  That’s a huge weight difference (the particle board table is about 80% heavier).

(2).  Particle board can be very weak. Because it’s made from wood chips and glue, it doesn’t have the structural strength of real lumber.  For most purposes in the small travel trailer, that’s OK because putting food or other items on a table generally won’t break the particle board.  However, any metal fittings that are screwed into the particle board have the potential of ripping out if exposed to a load.  That’s what happened one day recently when I was setting up our Scamp table.  As I was elevating the table to its upright position and sliding the thin metal brackets into their clamshell receptacles attached to the wall, one of the hardware fittings attached underneath the Scamp table ripped right out (all the screws and the particle board they were screwed into), leaving a big crater underneath the table.

(3).  Particle board is highly porous. So, if any moisture happens to leak underneath its veneer cover, the particle board can easily absorb the moisture, expand, and warp.  Additionally, it can be susceptible to mold which may eat through the board and cause various health issues.

(4).  Particle board can be toxic if manufactured with formaldehyde resin (which it commonly is). The resin can break down for years and release formaldehyde gas (called “off gassing”).  The gas can pollute the interior air of the small travel trailer and cause eyes to water, throats to burn, and difficulty breathing.  This gas is also known to be carcinogenic and toxic, meaning it may cause certain types of cancer.  It’s also been linked to an increased risk of allergies and asthma in children.  The U.S. Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR) states that “chronic exposure to formaldehyde may also cause general damage to the central nervous system, such as increased prevalence of headache, depression, mood changes, insomnia, irritability, attention deficit, and impairment of dexterity, memory and equilibrium.”

(5).  Particle board can be ugly. Although this may be a matter of personal preference, I’ve always found the wood veneer skins that are glued to many particle board surfaces to have a dated and artificial appearance.  In contrast, maple or birch veneers on plywood are really great looking.

It’s understandable that a manufacturer producing hundreds or thousands of units of travel trailers would choose particle board to save extensively on build costs.  However, that doesn’t mean you have to live with what some describe as “cut rate cheap junk” in your travel trailer.  For the 5 reasons listed above, replacing the particle board (or at least some of it) in your small travel trailer is worth serious consideration.  Because particle board has a lower expected life span compared to plywood due to being weak and porous, you might just have to replace it anyway in the near future (as in our case with our 12 month old 2020 Scamp 13’ table / bed).  If you do decide to replace any of your particle board with plywood, just make sure that the plywood type you choose is constructed with non-toxic adhesives (e.g. no formaldehyde).  The maple plywood sheeting we purchased at Home Depot is made without formaldehyde using a soy-based technology, “producing a water-resistant, nontoxic decorative plywood panel that is not prone to warp like solid wood and will not emit harmful fumes or degrade interior air quality.”

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.