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Borrego Palm Canyon Trail

Why We Prefer Primitive Campsites in Anza Borrego Desert State Park

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Why We Prefer Primitive Campsites in Anza Borrego Desert State Park
January 25th – 28th, 2022 (3 nights)

Having already enjoyed this beautiful desert state park a couple times in the past, we thought it would be fun to come back and try out the primitive campground area within the Borrego Palm Canyon Campground.  We like this campground because it’s only a couple of hours drive from our home in San Diego and has a nice warm desert vibe.  There’s great hiking and biking as well, along with a cute town which can be reached by bike.  There are numerous good restaurants along with interesting shops.  We stayed at the hookup area on our previous two visits.  The hookup area campsites are relatively close together and offer direct connections to electric, water, and sewer.  Many “snowbird” campers staying a week or longer to escape miserable winters at home (and often with large motorhomes) are common visitors at these sites.

On our first visit a couple of years ago, we admired some of the more private and scenic campsites in the “primitive” area of the campground at the base of the mountains.  These “primitive” sites offer no hookups, but there are water spigots near the campsites and a central dump station at the campground entrance.  At that time, we walked the entire campground and wrote down in our travel log all of our favorite primitive campsites, hoping to try one on a future visit.

When we received a text from friends in Sept. 2021 saying they were going to Borrego Palm Canyon campground in January 2022, we immediately reserved site #108 (based on our best campsite notes from our log book).  At that time, “dry” sites like this one without hookups cost $25/night with a $7.99 online reservation fee.  The hookup sites were $35/night.  But, just recently, prices for both types of sites increased $10/night (now $35/night dry and $45/night hookups)!  Some of the nicest primitive campsites are located at the back of the campground adjacent to the entrance of the Borrego Palm Canyon Trail, a 2.9 mile trail that leads to the third largest palm oasis in California (with California’s only native species of palm, the Fan palm).  The desert pup fish pond is also near the entrance of the Borrego Palm Canyon Trail.  These tiny (about 2.5 inches in length) rare endangered fish are able to survive in environments of extreme salinity, pH, and temperature, and low oxygen content.  You may have to be patient, but if you walk around the pond you will likely see some darting about.

When we arrived on a late January afternoon at our primitive campsite (#108), it was warm (in the low 70s) but the campsite was already in deep shade as it is at the base of one of the tall mountains behind which the sun sets in midafternoon.  The first thing we noticed is how roomy and private the primitive campsites are compared to the hookup area.  There are water spigots throughout the primitive campground and there is one right next to site #108.  Since we had a water spigot and also set up our solar panels, we had no issues with water or power during our three night stay.  We did bring our “holy grail portable grey water tank solution”, but decided instead to use the free central dump station at the entrance to the park since we also wanted to dump our black tank.   It only took us about thirty minutes total to hitch up our Scamp, drive down to the central dump, dump, and then set the Scamp up again on a weekday morning.  The primitive sites are still within walking distance to the main campground, so we were able to visit friends by taking a 15 minute walk or riding our bikes down to their hookup campsites.

On our second day, we had fun touring the metal sculptures (over 130 of them) in Galleta Meadows on our bikes.  These large metal shaped sculptures of people, animals and fantasy creatures are spread out over miles of desert, but the terrain is on flat quiet paved back roads, making the bike ride easy.  The metal artworks were created by artist Ricardo Breceda for Dennis Avery (of Avery labels), owner of Galleta Meadows.  It took us several hours to see almost all the sculptures.  We started our ride in the morning and ended with a nice late lunch at Pablito’s Mexican Bar & Grill in town.  By the time we finally made it back to the campground, we were tired as the gentle grade down to town turns into a lengthy gradual climb on the way back!  The entire loop is around twelve miles, which isn’t too much when on a bike, especially given most of the ride is very flat.  We were really glad we brought our bikes on this trip because the roads are mostly wide open and flat and having bikes makes it really convenient to explore.  The bike trip into town is an easy 15 minute ride.

In addition to the privacy and space the primitive campground provides, we also found it to be quieter as well as darker at night.  We noticed that the population density of campers in the primitive campsite area to be significantly less than at the hookup area.  Probably as a result, the area seemed more peaceful without noticeable campground noise.  In addition, because RVs aren’t lined up close together in rows like at the hookup sites, some with outdoor lights on, the primitive area seemed much darker.  This is really important when enjoying the stars, which is particularly significant at this park.  Anza Borrego State Park achieved its International Dark Sky Park rating in 2018 and, as such, is recognized as a premier place for stargazing.  We experienced wonderful stargazing first hand during nights at the primitive campground.

A visit to Anza Borrego Desert State Park wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the Visitor’s Center.  This time, we walked the short flat paved trail from the campground to the center.  There are placards along the way with descriptions of the plants and animals seen in the Anza Borrego Desert State Park.  The center has a theater, gift, and book store filled with great things related to Anza Borrego Desert.  The staff in the store are also really helpful if one has questions about trails or anything else Anza Borrego related.  On this trip, we picked up one of the current season’s Anza Borrego t-shirt designs along with a warm knit beanie with a bighorn sheep logo.

Now that we’ve tried both the hookup and primitive campgrounds at Borrego Palm Canyon Campground in the Anza Borrego Desert State Park, we can certainly recommend staying in the primitive campground for the many reasons explained above.  Overall, we found the stay at the primitive campground to be many factors more peaceful than our previous stays at the hookup area.  To be clear, we enjoyed our previous stays, but the primitive campground takes the desert experience to a new level.  Some nights we even heard animals (likely bighorn sheep) right outside our Scamp!  The quiet, the space, the peacefulness, and the darker skies without bright RV lights, definitely elevate the camping experience.  In addition, it’s also nice that it’s $10/night cheaper (at the time of this writing)!  Of course, there would be times when staying at the hookup campground might be preferable.  If we were planning on staying for an extended period of time and didn’t want the hassle of having to haul water from the spigot and driving to the central dump every four or five days (or needed power to run an AC or other energy hungry devices), then having hookups certainly makes things easier.  But, for us, we generally only stay a few days, and our main goal is to be in nature as much as possible.  And, that’s why we prefer primitive campsites in Anza Borrego Desert State Park … with more chances to see bighorn sheep!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Anza Borrego and Julian California

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Anza Borrego and Julian California
November 8th – 14th, 2021 (6 nights)

After recently returning from cool Oregon, we thought it might be nice to take a warm sunny trip to the California desert followed by a visit to a local mountain town.  Since we really enjoyed the Borrego Palm Canyon Campground in Anza Borrego State Park a couple of years ago (our very first Scamping trip), we scheduled a return visit.  The campground is only a couple of hours drive from our home in San Diego and offers some great hiking and biking as well as a cute desert town (Borrego Springs) with its fun shops and tasty restaurants.  When we arrived in the late afternoon to our full hookup site (#A26), it was warm (in the low 80s) and the sun was casting a red glow on the desert sand.  Surrounded by cactus and wide open space, there is a unique kind of vibe in the desert which one feels as soon as stepping outside.  Tall mountains serve as a dramatic backdrop to the Borrego Palm Canyon Campground whose campsites are nestled right up to rocky mountain’s edges.  After setting up our Scamp 13’, we took a long walk around the campground before watching a movie and going to sleep.

The next morning our goal was to hike the Borrego Palm Canyon Trail, a 2.9 mile trail that leads to the third largest palm oasis in California (with California’s only native species of palm, the Fan palm).  The trail was closed when we were at the park our first time a couple of years ago due to recovery from a fire, so we were looking forward to seeing the oasis.  We left early to avoid the heat and followed the trail up to a v-shaped gorge where we glimpsed the palm grove (note: the waterfall wasn’t visible when we visited).   Along the way, we kept our eyes open for bighorn sheep on the mountain ledges above us, but these elusive animals remained out of our sight during our hike.  When we reached the oasis we spent a few minutes appreciating the spectacle of the huge grove of tall palm trees in the middle of the desert.  A handful of other hikers were also enjoying the same experience at the viewpoint.  We didn’t spend too long at the top because it was starting to get hot and we still had about an hour hike back to the campground.  Returning to the campground was easier than reaching the palm oasis because it was mostly hiking back down the mountain to the desert floor.  Note:  always hike with a partner and bring plenty of water if attempting this hike because it can get very hot here and there is no cell phone reception on this desert/mountain trail.

Once rested after our morning hike, we decided to ride our bikes into town and have lunch at Carmelita’s (Mexican food).  We were really glad we brought our bikes along because the roads are mostly wide open and flat and having bikes makes it really convenient to explore.  We even road our mountain bikes across portions of desert sand and it was really fun.  The bike trip into town was an easy 15 minute ride.  We sat with our bikes at Carmelitas on their outside patio and enjoyed a fantastic lunch (chips and salsa followed by excellent chicken mole enchiladas).  After lunch, we browsed items at the Borrego Outfitters shop next door (two years ago we purchased really interesting metal interlocking canteens and UV sun sleeves here).  Then, we biked to the Anza Borrego State Park Visitor’s Center on the West end of the park and purchased some t-shirts.  After all the day’s excitement, we enjoyed watching the stars in the evening.  Anza Borrego State Park achieved its International Dark Sky Park rating in 2018 and, as such, is recognized as a premier place for stargazing.  We retired in the Scamp after a long and fun day and watched a movie before bed.

We asked one of the park rangers if it would be OK to delay checkout from Noon until around 12:45 p.m. and we were told that was fine.  We wanted to eat lunch before stopping off at Bike Borrego (a local ebike tour company) to pick up a new bike lock (the one we recently purchased had failed).  The owner could only meet us at 1 p.m. to sell us one of his locks (and there are no other bike stores in town).  After purchasing our new bike lock, we drove an hour and a half to our next destination, the Salton Sea.  Unfortunately, conditions were not pleasant at the Salton Sea.  It was 88 degrees with many small flying insects and the air smelled of rotten eggs.  The Salton Sea, California’s largest lake, was formed from runoff of the Colorado River in the early 1900s.  In the 1950’s and 60’s it became a resort destination.  Bird watching was also popular as the wetlands were a major resting stop on the Pacific Flyway.  In the 1980s, contamination from farm runoff promoted the outbreak and spread of diseases.  Massive numbers of birds and fish died.  During this time, large amounts of water evaporated which resulted in very high salinity, further destroying fish and other wildlife.  What remains is a toxic wasteland.  It’s not recommended to go into or touch the water and the air often smells.  The air smell is caused by elevated levels of hydrogen sulfide gas coming from the Salton Sea (it’s a highly toxic gas created by organic decay in the absence of oxygen at the bottom of the Salton Sea).  Needless to say, we left the Salton Sea Mecca Beach Campground after only about 5 minutes.  We called ahead to our next planned stop in Julian, William Heise County Park, and fortunately were told we could arrive a couple of days early as our campsite was open!

We arrived at William Heise campground in the charming mountain town of Julian right around sunset after a two hour drive from the Salton Sea.  We usually like arriving to campgrounds earlier in the day as it’s easier to see the campsite, locate a good pad position for the Scamp, and set everything up.  However, this was an unusual circumstance and we didn’t have much of a choice on timing.  Fortunately, we were able to quickly find our campsite (#41) and get everything in order because as soon as we finished setting up, it became extremely dark.  We chose a non-hookup site because the hookup sites at this campground are only partial (water & electric) and generally not as spaced out as the non-hookup sites.  There are water spigots located throughout the campground which we used to fill our Fresh Water tank daily.  And, we used our solar panel briefcase and Jackery 500 lithium battery to supply all the power we needed.  There is also a free central dump at this campground (which we used in combination with our Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution to avoid having to move our Scamp).  The weather was nice and cool in the afternoon and evening (a relief from the 88 degree temperatures we left a couple of hours earlier).  Daytime temperatures, in the 70’s, were also much cooler than the desert as Julian is located at over 4,000 feet elevation.

Julian is an old gold mining town where the gold rush happened in the 1850s.  Since then, apples and tourism have become the town’s new gold, and pie and gift shops line main street.  Julian is a very popular day trip destination for people who live in San Diego and Los Angeles because it’s only a two or three hour drive respectively.   People come here for the day to visit the apple orchards in the early Fall and throughout the year to eat apple, apple berry, and other varieties of pies.  Downtown Julian is about a 12-minute drive from William Heise County Park, which we found was good because downtown was very busy when we visited!  We did venture downtown a few times for the mandatory sampling of some of the different types of apple pies at both the Julian Pie Co. and the Julian Café and Bakery!  But, we mostly enjoyed staying in the campground and hiking the numerous trails (e.g. Cedar Creek Trail, Canyon Oak Trail, Desert View/Glen’s View Trail).  The Desert View Trail with a hike up to the Glen’s View outlook is notable because at the peak one can see both Anza Borrego and the Salton Sea on one side and San Diego and the ocean on the other.  Because we arrived two days early, we had ample amount of time to explore Julian and the William Heise County Park.  One interesting stop before leaving on our last day was the Julian Wolf Center.  We were able to observe a couple of wolf packs on our one hour wolf conservation tour ($30/each).  The center seeks to breed wolves and release wolf pups back into the wild. We found the wolf center to be an interesting experience.

This relatively short trip reinforced a couple of our Scamp travel principles.  First, travel to locations which have favorable weather conditions for a more comfortable trip.  We did find both Anza Borrego and Julian to have very favorable weather conditions this time of year (Fall).  Second, be open-minded and flexible if you don’t feel comfortable at the campsite to which you pull up.  And, have your usernames and passwords with you for all your campground reservation websites in case you need to cancel your reservation, make a change, or make a new reservation.  If you do need to cancel at the last minute because you don’t want to stay at the campsite (like in our case with the Salton Sea), you will likely forfeit at least a day’s campsite fee (which usually isn’t much), but it will be worth an overall more enjoyable trip!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.