Solutions

Solutions

Drain and Clean Your Tanks Regularly To Avoid Algae, Bacteria and other Bad Guys

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Drain and Clean Your Tanks Regularly To Avoid Algae, Bacteria and other Bad Guys

Algae, bacteria, and other harmful microorganisms can grow in your trailer’s Fresh and Grey tanks as well as other parts of the water system such as the pipes, hoses and water heater.  It may be possible to see the algae or it might just be that your water has a funny smell.  If you regularly are using a product to clean the Black and Grey tanks (after each trip) then it’s not likely there will be issues in these tanks.

Algae like to grow in a moist warm environment which is often the situation with the trailer’s tanks, water heater tank, and pipes.  Algae and other microorganisms have the potential for not only making the trailer water smell funny and clogging up water lines, but also could be dangerous to one’s health.  Personally, we only drink water that we bring from home that is produced in our reverse osmosis system and stored in 4 gallon BPA free plastic jugs.  But, even showering and washing dishes and hands with contaminated water could be potentially dangerous (e.g. skin, stomach, and lung issues).

Using a water filter before water enters your trailer is a must.  Additionally, the first thing to do when you get home from a trip is to drain all your tanks to eliminate the potential growing environment for the algae (this should include draining your hot water heater tank if the trailer will be stored more than a couple of weeks).  Draining the Fresh, Grey, Black, and Hot Water Heater tanks is easy and should be something you do after each trip so your trailer is ready to go for your next adventure.  When we get home, we usually park our Scamp in front of our house on the street so we can wash it before putting it back in the garage.  We open up the Fresh tank value located under the passenger side dinette seat so that the remaining Fresh water drains out on the road.  Once fully drained, we close the valve.  We also open the Hot Water Heater tank plug on the outside of the Scamp (open metal service access door on driver’s side) and let the tank drain as well (before opening, water should be cold and pressure released by turning on hot water tap at sink with on demand pump off).  On our Scamp’s Suburban hot water heater, a 1 1/16” socket is needed to unscrew the hexagonal bolt which is not only the plug to the hot water heater but also the Anode Rod (see image).  After washing the trailer and bringing it into the garage, we then drain our Black and Grey tanks using the sewer clean out drain in the garage.

It’s a good idea to sanitize your trailer water system once every six months and change your external water filter at the same time (or at least once per season or earlier if you notice decreased water flow).

Supplies:

RV Fresh Water System Sanitizing Instructions (Frequency = every 6 months)

  1. Make sure water heater is off and the circuit breaker to it is off.  Also, make sure the hot water heater switches are all off (electric and gas) and the gas LP valves are also off.
  2. Fill your Scamp Fresh tank so it is ½ full.
  3. Wearing gloves / protective eyewear and using a funnel  and plastic hose tube, pour ¼ cup of household bleach (e.g. Clorox) into your ½ full Fresh tank (or whatever ratio is recommended by your trailer manufacturer) (never pour full strength bleach into an empty tank).
  4. Add fresh water to your Fresh tank until it is full.
  5. Turn on 12V On Demand Water Pump.
  6. Run each tap one by one (sink hot water, sink cold water, shower hot/cold) until you smell the bleach and then let the tap run a few more seconds and then turn off.
  7. Fill Fresh water tank again to 100%.
  8. Turn off 12V On Demand Water Pump.
  9. Let sit overnight.
  10. Drain the Fresh and Hot Water Heater tanks.
    1. On the Scamp 13’, remove the passenger side dinette seat cushion and access the panel underneath. Open the drain valve 180 degrees and the Fresh water will drain on the ground below.
    2. Release water pressure in system by opening kitchen sink hot and cold faucets with demand pump off until water trickles.
    3. On our Scamp 13’, the hot water heater service access panel is at the driver’s side rear of trailer. The plug/anode is at the bottom of the heater.  Use socket wrench (our Suburban hot water heater plug needs a 1- 1/16” or 27mm socket) to unscrew plug (which also has a long metal anode rod).  You may have to pull the plug bolt head with some pressure if the rod gives resistance.  Water will drain out once the plug/rod is removed (so move trailer onto the street or location where water draining isn’t an issue).  This is the time to inspect the Anode rod.  If it looks very eaten up or is 75% consumed replace it when this process is complete.*  See instructions at bottom.
    4. If you have a Hot Water Heater tank rinser, now’s a good time to pressure wash the inside of the Hot Water Heater tank to remove any leftover sediment. We use this one.
    5. Tighten the Dummy Plug (old Anode rod with wire clipped off so just plug remains), Existing Plug, or New Plug onto the Hot Water Tank so it is sealed.
  11. Fill Fresh tank and open hot water tap until water flows (so hot water tank is full).
  12. Run each tap (sink hot, sink cold, shower hot/cold) until there is no bleach / chlorine smell.
  13. If bleach smell persists, drain Fresh tank and water heater again using their drain valves and refill with Fresh water.
  14. Once smell is gone, drain the Fresh tank and Hot Water Tank again and let sit dry until next trip.
  15. Now firmly secure the Anode rod in with Teflon tape and socket wrench.
  16. Turn off 12V On Demand Pump.
  17. Replace external water filter with new one.

*Replacing the Anode rod (Frequency = every 12 months under hard water usage or when 75% consumed):  Take a wire brush to the clean drain port threads to remove sediment and any leftover Teflon tape on the threads.  Next, apply mineral oil on a cloth to the clean threads to prevent corrosion and assist in installing the new Anode rod.  Wrap Teflon seal tape on threads of new Anode rod, leaving the first few threads exposed so you can screw in plug by hand.  Screw in new Anode rod clockwise by hand to make sure it’s threaded correctly and then use socket wrench until it is firmly tight (do not over tighten to avoid stripping the threads).  Note:  the anode rod does not and will not need to go all the way in.  The anode just needs to be tightened enough to be water tight.  Tighten snug and do not crank down beyond this or damage to the threads or tank could occur.  If it leaks, tighten a little bit more if possible.

We order this 3 pack of Anode rods for our Suburban hot water heater, and it comes with Teflon seal tape:

(3 Pack) Suburban RV Anode Rod Replacement Part 232767

Why is the Anode rod so important?  The Anode rod is able to help keep the Hot Water Tank from rusting by promoting a chemical reaction called electrolysis.  The process makes the Anode rod corrode in place of the exposed steel in your water heater which can lead to leaks.

RV Grey & Black Water System Sanitizing Instructions (Frequency =  every or every other trip)

We use Happy Campers Organic RV Holding Tank Treatment for the Grey and Black Water (toilet) tanks.

First, we dump our tanks.  Then, we fill jug with 1 scoop of Happy Camper with 1 gallon of water and mix and pour into the toilet and then flush the toilet immediately (Black tank).  Then, we pour two more gallons of fresh water into the toilet and flush.  We do the same for the sink (Grey tank).  We let the tanks sit for a week, allowing Happy Campers to sanitize the tanks, and then dump the tanks.  Works great!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

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Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

There are enough details in taking out your small travel trailer that, unless you use checklists, you will inevitably have problems.  The veteran campers we’ve talked with invariably insist on using checklists.  Checklists help you avoid major issues such as driving off with underinflated tires, stabilizer bars still on ground, the hitch coupler not properly attached to the ball, etc. ……..  Pilots use checklists all the time because of the high number of critical systems.  In addition to a prelaunch checklist, maintaining separate checklists for other things [such as trip supplies and how to operate various utilities on your trailer] provide additional benefits.  We created a supply checklist after our last trip to Mammoth Lakes, where we really needed our solar panel, but it was inadvertently left in our garage!

You can create a checklist using just a pencil and paper if you want or on your computer using a word processing program.  We use a free app called Color Checklist which is on the Google Play store.  It’s nice in that you can keep it on your phone and it actually has check boxes and check marks!  It’s important that you can have the checklist in hand wherever you are.  Here’s our main checklist which we use whenever we are going to depart from home or the campground:

Scamp check list for Leaving site (opposite when arriving)

  • Fuel SUV to FULL TANK
  • Add Fresh water if going to non-hookup site or 50% if just wanting to use water on drive
  • Dump Black & Grey tanks
  • Remove tire boot lock, coupler lock, hitch lock, and tire leveler wedge
  • Raise stabilizer bars.
  • Trailer tires psi 48  / Volvo SUV @ 40 psi
  • Attach X cross safety chains
  • Attach wiring harness
  • Raise center Jack to Clear ball and lower on ball
  • Lower and lock coupler on ball
  • Close LP (liquid propane) tanks
  • All switches off
  • Close / latch windows
  • Secure power cord outside outlet cover
  • If you have 54″ bed,  put additional table support on floor
  • Close fan
  • Turn off water heater breaker, 110v Water Heater switch.  Make sure switches are off – Gas Water heater water switch and demand pump for Fresh Tank.
  • Check laundry line is inside trailer.
  • Check trailer lights
  • Refrigerator on 12V for driving (120V or LP at campsite with no hookups).
  • Lock Scamp door
  • Disconnect wiring harness from SUV when not driving to prevent car battery drain.
  • Check Scamp voltage when SUV hooked up and running – should be over 12.5V.
  • [When storing after trip, drain Fresh tank by opening valve under dinette seat – water will drain under trailer, drain Hot Water Heater tank (plug on outside of trailer under metal cover), and dump Black and Grey tanks.]

Here is our Scamp Supply Checklist  (note:  we leave many items in the Scamp such as plates, cups, and utensils so we don’t need to pack them every trip):

  • Food & water
  • Empty Water Jug / Dolly
  • Down jackets
  • Hiking Boots
  • Hats & Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Umbrella
  • Foam mattress topper
  • Outdoor floor mat
  • Solar panel (when applicable)
  • Shower & kitchen towels
  • TP & paper towels
  • Pots & pans with lids
  • Measuring cup and strainer
  • Pancake mix and maple syrup
  • Chocolate
  • Jackery 500 generator (for powering battery devices)
  • Camera and drone
  • Broom
  • Lawn chairs
  • Rain gear
  • Wet vac
  • Kayak (when applicable)
  • Campground surge protector
  • Scamp water supplies (e.g. hose, pressure regulator, water filter, 90 degree brass fitting)
  • Rubber gloves (for dump)
  • Toilet sanitizers
  • Hand sanitizers

Our additional checklists for operating the Scamp water pump, water heater, furnace, and refrigerator.  The procedures on these lists could vary since various model utilities are used in Scamp production.

Scamp On Demand Water Pump Checklist (used when not attached to City Water to pressurize system)

  • Make sure Fresh water tank is full before turning on
  • Only use when not attached to City water
  • Turn switch off when not in Scamp or Fresh tank is near empty (then fill tank before using water)

Scamp Water Heater Checklist (auto start)

  • Runs on 120V or LP
  • Hook up to City Water (or Fresh water see below)
  • Turn on hot water at faucet
  • When water comes out at sink, hot water heater is full with water (important to fill so water heater tank doesn’t burn)
  • If City water is not available, fill Fresh water tank, turn on demand pump, turn on hot water at sink until water comes out
  • For electric operation, turn on 120V breaker and then turn on 120V Water heater switch
  • For LP operation, open LP tank and then turn ON small rocker switch (down on our model) and light will momentarily come on.  No temperature controls.  (Uses electricity to start automatically)
  • Water heater can be left on until leaving camp (although we shut ours off at night after showers)

Scamp Furnace Checklist (auto start)

  • Uses both electric to start and run fan and LP to operate
  • Turn LP tank on, Turn on Furnace switch
  • Set thermostat to desired temp
  • Fan will start, Igniter will click
  • Furnace will light
  • Turn off LP tank if there is a sulfur smell
  • Turn on stove using lighter and run several minutes to bleed lines if Furnace doesn’t start

Scamp Refrigerator Checklist

  • 3 Way model — 120V, 12V, LP
  • Open outside vent to select power source (lower front panel on our Scamp 13′)
  • Three switches (Green 120V, Red 12V, Knob is LP) — ONLY ONE POWER SOURCE AT ONE TIME!
  • For driving — use the 12V Red switch
  • For hookup camping — use the 120V Green switch
  • For dry camping with no hookups — use the Knob for LP
    • Open LP tank valve first
    • Set gas thermostat to high on wheel>depress wheel knob>push red igniter button repeatedly and quickly multiple times while holding down wheel knob.  Keep knob depressed for 15 seconds.  Check to see pilot flame.  High setting is coolest.  If having trouble lighting, turn off knob and run stove burners in kitchen for a couple minutes to bleed gas line and then try again.
    • Set thermostat to 4 or 5 or higher if opening door frequently.

      Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

       

Our Best Travel Trailer Modification

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Our Best Travel Trailer Modification

One of the most important assets of a travel trailer is the ability to get a good night’s sleep wherever you are.  Unfortunately, our brand new 2020 Scamp 13’ (with big bed and bathroom) failed for me in this regard.  I found the cushions so hard that I was constantly waking up during the night on our first trip.

The first thing I did when we got home was do some online research.  I quickly found this to be a common issue among Scamp owners with various solutions posted.  Some recommended just putting a foam mattress topper on top of the cushions.  So, I ordered a 2 inch topper to see how that would help.

When the topper arrived, I pulled the cushions out of the Scamp and laid them on our living room floor.  Then, I put the new 2” foam topper on the cushions.  The cushions still failed to be comfortable, even with the topper.  It felt like the foam was compressing and I could still feel the hard surface of the cushions.

Other Scamp owners talked about making new cushions from scratch with soft foam inserts.  Since we don’t own a sewing machine or specialize in this type of skill; we opted instead to bring the Scamp cushions into a local upholstery shop.  The upholstery guy felt the cushions, shook his head and laughed.  He said this foam is a “#40” in firmness a “#28”would be much better for sleeping.  We told him we wanted to use the existing cushions as a template, but use entirely new foam and coverings.  In addition to wanting a softer cushion that is easy to sleep on, we also wanted a material that is easy to clean.  The original Scamp cushions are covered in fabric.  We chose a faux “leather” material made from vinyl called Pebble Dark Stone (PEB250).

The total price for all new cushions was $1,028:  new foam $319, the new faux “leather” material $350, and $359 for labor.   Note:  our Scamp has the larger 54” bed, so more material was necessary compared to the smaller standard bed.  After a couple of weeks, our new cushions were ready.  We bagged the original Scamp cushions and have stored them in our attic in case we ever sell the Scamp and someone wants the originals.

We have found the new cushions to be extremely comfortable.  We no longer need the 2” foam mattress topper and not having to carry the bulky topper rolled up in our tow vehicle saves space (and we don’t need to transfer the topper back and forth from the tow vehicle to the Scamp every morning and night).  Since replacing the cushions, we have experienced a much better night’s sleep!  In addition, we’ve found that the vinyl covering makes it easier to maneuver the cushions when setting up and taking down the bed every day since the material is somewhat slippery.  Lastly, we’ve found the faux “leather” to be very easy to clean as it is a smooth non fabric surface.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

Secure Your Power Cords To Prevent Damage

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Secure Your Power Cords To Prevent Damage

It’s very important to secure your power cords to prevent them from dropping and hitting the road.  There are two power cords on a Scamp.  One allows the Scamp to plug from the front of the trailer into the back of the car to provide 12 Volt power from the tow vehicle to the Scamp while driving.  This is useful for powering the 12 Volt refrigerator while driving.  The other cable is located at the back of the Scamp and is the charging cable.  If either cable drops while you are driving, it’s very likely that the head of the cable will get damaged as it bounces off the concrete.  Additionally, the cord could potentially hit your trailer, car and/or another car causing additional damage.

Unbeknownst to us, our Scamp has a plastic cover that snaps closed with a firm push to hold the power cord in the Scamp.  On our first few trips, I just pushed the cover closed (but not snapped down) and everything seemed to work fine.  On our way back home from Lake Tahoe, we noticed people in cars adjacent to ours on the freeway pointing to the back of our Scamp.  It’s always disconcerting when you see people with concerned expressions pointing to your trailer!  All sorts of thoughts come racing to mind.

When I looked in the rear view mirror, I saw the Scamp power cable bouncing off the road.  I quickly pulled over and put the cord back into its holder and then used tape to secure the hatch.  Fortunately, we caught it quickly and the plug on the cord only had minor scrapes and it was still functional.  I called Scamp later and they told me to make sure to “snap” the cover into place!

A couple weeks later, our friend Dana told us about her issue.  In her case, the front cable, which connects the Scamp to the tow vehicle (in order to power the brake lights, flashers, and auxiliary 12V power), came lose while driving.  Unfortunately, the cable was damaged beyond use by scraping against the road.  She is going to look into either replacing the entire cable or perhaps just the plug.

I’ve added checking the snap on cover to the power cord on our trip checklist to make sure this never happens again!  Additionally, we will also check to make sure the cable that plugs into the car is firmly seated and providing ample power to the Scamp (using Voltmeter installed in Scamp).  When the car is running, the Scamp generally shows over 13.5 Volts when plugged into the vehicle.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Protecting Yourself and Your RV From City Water

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Protecting Yourself and Your RV From City Water

There are several essential items you will want regarding your City water supply.  If you just hook up any hose to the City water connection at the campground and attach it to your trailer you could have serious issues.  Among these are:

  1. contaminated water from a dirty hose,
  2. chemicals in the water from using a non BPA free hose,
  3. particles and debris entering your trailers pipes / screens / pumps,
  4. excessive high pressure from the City water potentially damaging the trailer’s pipes,
  5. damage to your City water connection attachment from the weight of the hose / filter

Using the following essential products will greatly reduce the risk of a problem caused by the City water supply and enhance your enjoyment while camping.

Camco (40055) RV Brass Inline Water Pressure Regulator:  This device should be the first thing to be attached to the city water spigot.  It will limit the pressure to acceptable levels so your RV pipes don’t burst from excessive water pressure.  Additionally, it is brass so it is lead free and safe.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco (22783) 25ft TastePURE Drinking Water Hose – Lead and BPA Free:  RV City water hoses should be white, and lead and BPA free to ensure your trailer sink and shower water is safe to use.  I’ve found the 25’ length to be a good size.  The hose may also be used to fill your Fresh tank when not connected to City Water.  You want to make sure you use your own hose to fill your trailer with water because public hoses at campgrounds may have been used to clean septic systems and, in turn, may be contaminated.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco 40045 TastePURE Inline RV Water Filter:  Your white hose should be screwed into a water filter so that contaminants and sediment will be prevented from entering your trailer’s water system.  The filter may also reduce chlorine and odors from the water.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Brass 90° Lead-Free Hose Saver:  This clever brass right angle device attaches to your trailer’s city water port and allows your water filter to attach hanging down so that less weight hangs from the port.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Another great option is Camco 40043 TastePure RV/Marine Water Filter with Flexible Hose Protector:

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco Water Tank Filler with Shutoff Valve:  This little spout can be attached directly to the white water hose to make filling the Fresh water tank on the trailer much easier.  It can also be attached to a Water Bandit* on a water jug spout.  It has a valve so you can easily turn off the hose water without being next to the spigot.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco (22484) *Water Bandit:  This is a cool little product that allows you to connect a hose or water filler to a water spigot without threads (or one with stripped threads).  It probably doesn’t support a lot of pressure, but is a nice small tool to carry just in case.  I use it to attach to a jug spout to fill the Fresh water on our Scamp.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Ozark Trail Desert Patrol 6-Gal Water Jug:  This water jug is BPA free and does a great job of holding water to fill up the Fresh water tank at campgrounds not equipped with direct hookups.  Simply take the jug over to the nearest water spigot and fill it up.  I always take a collapsible dolly as well since water weighs about 8 pounds per gallon – meaning this jug will weigh almost 50 pounds when full.  I recommend using the Water Bandit on the included spout and have someone help in lifting the jug to fill the Fresh tank.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON WALMART

Vergo Industrial 275 lbs Capacity Folding Hand Truck Dolly (Model S300BT):  This dolly easily fits in the car and is great for moving heavy water jugs.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Turn Your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone

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How to Turn Your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone

One of the biggest complaints people have about small travel trailers is the Wet Bath.  Because room in a very small travel trailer is at a premium, the bathroom areas are usually combined (toilet and shower in one room) and, in turn, are often finished so that all surfaces in the entire bathroom (toilet, sink, and shower) can be wet.  The advantage of this is that one can enjoy almost all the comforts of home, including a full bathroom, within such a small space.  However, no one likes to walk into a bathroom and get their feet wet or sit on a wet toilet seat!!!

Instead of opting to buy a larger trailer just so you can have a separate shower and toilet area or spending time after each shower drying off the toilet and floor, there are some easy inexpensive solutions that will ensure that the shower area is insulated so that the toilet compartment stays dry and comfortable.  Additionally, a couple of extra items will keep the floor in the shower relatively dry after each use.

Insulating the two compartments is easy if you have the right supplies.  The first thing you will need is a simple shower curtain with holes and plastic rings.  You will also need some medium utility hooks and perhaps some 3M adhesive fastener tape (sold a home supply stores) if you are affixing the hook to headliner (furry insulating material).

August 2021 UPDATE (use Magnets instead of Hooks)

First, we used the already existing pvc rod in the Scamp (above the inside of the bathroom door used to hold the door curtain) to secure the door side of our curtain by putting our ring on it at the end.  Next, we used 3M fastener tape and stuck it onto the back of one of the hooks (instead of using the double sided tape that comes with the hooks).  We used this one hook with the 3M tape for the headliner, because the fiberglass shower wall doesn’t come up too high in the Scamp and the regular tape doesn’t stick to the insulated headliner material.  The Scamp has a rat fur type of headliner which the 3M fastener sticks to really well.  We attached the double sided tape for the other two hooks because they were going directly onto the fiberglass wall, so we could secure the shower curtain against the entire wall (see images).

The idea is that the shower curtain is used when showering and then simply unhooked and tucked on the door side when done.  You will find that this method works well for keeping the toilet area dry (along with the toilet paper / rolls placed on toilet bowl cleaner’s handle).

To keep your feet elevated off the shower floor (which can be damp or wet), we recommend using a teak “mat”.  It is a really nice way to stay elevated from the floor while also allowing water to fall between the slits into the drain.  Additionally, it may provide some anti-slip properties versus standing directly on potentially slick fiberglass flooring.  We purchased this one (measure your floor area to make sure the mat you purchase fits):

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

If your shower floor holds some residual water after showering, like ours does, we recommend using a squeegee after showering to move water manually into the shower drain (with shower floor pump running and teak mat removed).  Once you have done your best, simply place the teak mat back over the floor.

After doing everything in this article, you should have a reasonably dry toilet compartment after each shower!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Why Did My Kitchen Sink Stop Running?

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Why Did My Kitchen Sink Stop Running?

Case #1:  Shortly after our first trip, we noticed that no water was coming out of our Scamp sink when connected to city water (hose hookup).  I tried the water in the shower and it worked fine.  I wondered if there was something blocking the sink water pipe.  Before I did anything, I did an exhaustive internet search and found the potential answer on an obscure post within a trailer website.  The suggestion was to check out the sink’s aerator (little device that screws onto the sink faucet head which has a metal screen).  The purpose of the aerator is to introduce bubbles into the water flow to save water.

I was easily able to unscrew the aerator and, lo and behold, it was filled with pebbly sediment!  Maybe the sediment was debris from inside the new pipes.  In any case, it was a quick job to wash out the junk blocking the aerator from doing its job.  The sink ran fine as soon as I screwed the freshly cleaned aerator back onto the faucet head!

Case #2:  Right before a long trip to Lake Tahoe, I filled up our Scamp’s fresh water tank for the first time to test the boondocking (dry camping) system used when access to city water (hose) would not be possible.  We were going to be staying at D.L. Bliss State Park on the shores of Lake Tahoe and the park does not provide electrical or water hookups.  However, they have water spigots that can be used to fill up water jugs which can then load water into the trailer’s fresh water tank.  In order for the fresh water system to work, it needs to be pressurized with the water pump turned on.  This on demand pump can be left on while dry camping (as it only turns on when pressure drops which is when the sink is turned on).  I usually turn the on demand water pump off when we leave the trailer for safety (to prevent possible flooding if there was a leak).

When I first tested the on demand water pump system it worked, but when I turned the water pump off (out of curiosity) and continued to let the sink water run the water ran briefly and then stopped.  When I turned the pump back on, the water would not run.  The system had lost its prime and could not pressurize even with the water pump on!  Fortunately, my plumber friend Oscar has an RV and knew exactly what to do!  We located the water pump under one of the dinette seats and opened the pump primer valve until water dripped out and then closed it again.  To open the primer valve, rotate the cap in the Open direction shown in the image (opposite / bottom side labeled Vacuum side only) and close it the the opposite direction.  After this procedure, the water ran perfectly when the on demand water pump was on and has continued to work flawlessly ever since.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Why Isn’t My Shower Draining?

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Why Isn’t My Shower Draining?

This tip applies directly to the Scamp travel trailer, but may also be relevant to other small travel trailers.  Toward the end of our 9 day trip to Lake Tahoe, we noticed that our shower floor wasn’t draining very quickly (even with the water pump running).

When we got home, I called Scamp and they told me to check the water filter under the trailer.  The drain waters from both the sink and the shower (grey water) are pumped to the grey tank, but first pass through a filter to remove debris to help protect the pump and give it a longer life span.

I peered under the front of the trailer and quickly found the water filter, a black cylindrical plastic case with a clear top sitting between two clear hoses (see photo 1) .  One of these hoses leads directly to the water pump.  It didn’t take too much effort to twist the clear plastic top off the case.

The cylindrical metal screen pops right out.  In our case, it was completely clogged with a lot of debris.  It only took a few seconds to wash it off with a hose.  Once clean, it should be put back into the case and the top twisted back on to close.

We immediately saw that after cleaning the water filter, the shower water again drained very quickly like when we first started using the Scamp in February 2020.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Why & How We Fit Our Scamp in the Garage

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Why & How We Fit Our Scamp in the Garage

A fantastic trait of small travel trailers is that you can sometimes fit them your garage!  One reason this is a great thing is because trailer storage fees are one of the biggest ongoing expenses of owning an RV and one that stops many from considering buying one.  It’s not uncommon for monthly trailer storage fees to be between $200 and $300 per month for average sized trailers in big cities.  And even dirt cheap storage fees charged by outdoor lots can easily run $50 – $100 per month.  Someone paying just $85 per month is paying over $1,000 per year, or over 6% of the total cost of their trailer (e.g. $16K trailer), every year on storage fees!!!  These fees can really add up over the years!

Another great reason for storing your small travel trailer in your Garage is that it will be out of the elements.  The sun can take a tremendous toll on a trailer with the UV rays damaging tires, outdoor rubber/plastic window trim and parts (including plastic tail lights), and even potentially damaging interior window shades and other visible interior elements.   UV damage is one of the biggest causes of an RV’s value loss.  Rain is another element that can potentially damage a trailer by seeping in and ruining the interior or causing mold, and hail can damage the exterior finish of the trailer.  Pests, such as rodents, have easier access to a trailer if it is left outside and can do considerable damage (e.g. chewing wires, defecating inside the RV….).  The trailer’s battery can also be more vulnerable to all of the above if left outside.

There are many other additional reasons why storing your trailer in your garage is a good idea.  The trailer is less vulnerable to theft or vandalism.  You can provision your trailer for an upcoming trip very easily without having to drive to a storage lot.  In addition, you can prep for the trip a day in advance without have to load it at the last minute; and it’s even possible to turn on and fill the refrigerator the day before you leave.  If you have a sewer cleanout in your garage (and if it’s allowed by local laws), you can dump your tanks in your garage (after a trip, before a trip, and allowing you to test the water systems at home without having to potentially drive somewhere and paying a fee to dump).  And, if your trailer needs work and you want to tinker on it, it’s much easier to work on it in your garage than having to bring all your tools to a storage location (and finding an allowed work area and electricity at the storage facility).  Lastly, having your trailer in your garage will make it easy for you to charge the battery weekly so that it maintains proper voltage.

I was told by Scamp when I first started my inquiry that their 13’ Scamp will clear an 8 foot garage height.  Since we live in a Community HOA, it would not be possible to store our Scamp on the street.  It would have to be stored at a storage lot or inside our garage.  For all the above benefits of home storage, we really wanted to make the garage option work.  Our tract home in Carlsbad has the typical low 7 foot garage height clearance.  My initial research revealed that some people claimed success with getting their Scamps into their 7 foot high garages by removing the Scamp’s wheels and sliding it into the garage riding on tiny rims and deflated tires.  This is an option I didn’t want to try since it involved work each time the Scamp would be moved.

Instead, we decided on seeing if we could raise our garage height.  The big questions were if the height could be raised and, if so, how much would it cost.  Since we live in an HOA, the first requirement was that the HOA approve the project.  We were required to submit before and after renderings showing what the garage looked like before and what it would look like after it was raised to over 8 feet.  Fortunately, my brother-in-law, Bob, is an artist and used an image I took of the garage and modified it to show a very realistic picture of what it would like after raising the garage height.  After about a month, we received our HOA approval.  I then called a Contractor I had worked with in the past to get a quote.  He came out and said he thought it was very doable and gave us a very reasonable estimate for the work ($3,155) which would take less than a week.  He recommended we get a Permit for the project to do it legally and also add value to the home (as an 8 foot garage with Permit could be a highly desirable feature when selling the home in the future).  In order to get a Permit from the City of Carlsbad, we would first need to submit engineering plans.  This required getting an architect and providing a set of our home plans (which the City of Carlsbad obtained by contacting the developer of our community).  Having the plans made the job much easier for the architect and, in turn, less expensive for us.  The architect’s fee for the job was $1,500.

Once we submitted the plan to the City (there was a small building permit fee), our plans got approved within a couple of weeks.  With approved plans in hand, we called our Contractor back and let him transform the garage height from 7’ 1” to 8’ 1”.  It took about a week and worked out great!  We were fortunate in that the perfect height was created just by removing the short vertical pieces (cripples) between the big major cross beam that runs the width of the garage above the garage door (garage header) and the beam above it.  New higher posts and braces were installed to support the elevated header.  New drywall was also installed inside to cover the new beams.  A City inspector came out a couple of times to approve all the work and finally to issue the final Permit.  One last expense was having a new 8 foot garage door installed (along with new parts).  We took the opportunity to get an insulated garage door to keep the temperature in the garage more moderate as well as to better reduce street noise.  Cost for the garage door installed with parts was $1,355.

The total project cost for raising the garage height was about $6,000.  Sure, this amount could pay for years of offsite trailer storage (5 years @ $100 / month).  However, factoring in all the benefits of home storage, the annual savings of storage fees for the entire time we use our garage to store a small trailer, and the potential for increasing the home’s value by having an elevated garage height, we are extremely happy we undertook this project.  It is nice knowing the Scamp is safe in the garage and ready to go for our next trip!

Note:  It is very important to check the slope of your driveway as it could impact the ability of the Scamp roof to clear the garage height, even if the garage is raised to 8’ 1”.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Ordering Our 2020 Scamp:  Choosing a Model, Picking Options, and the Price

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Ordering Our 2020 Scamp:  Choosing a Model, Picking Options, and the Price

Scamp makes 3 different model lengths (one of which is the 19 foot 5th wheel which mounts on top of a pickup truck).  We were choosing between the 13 foot and 16 foot models since we don’t have a pickup truck and we wanted the Scamp to fit in our garage (after increasing the garage height from 7 to 8 feet high).  Both models come with and without bathrooms as well as some different layout choices and a Deluxe hardwood option.  Both size models are very similar, except the 16’ model allows for some additional layout possibilities.  People like the 16’ Scamp because some additional configuration choices include the ability for the bed to be kept down all the time and still have a side kitchen table and there is also a front bunk option to sleep more people.

We had never seen a Scamp before in person and initially only had the Scamp company website and YouTube videos to help us make a selection.  Fortunately, Scamp maintains an owner referral network and our Scamp salesman Alan gave us a recent buyer’s contact information.  I contacted Dana by email and she was very excited to have us over to her storage facility to check out her Scamp 16’.  She spent a lot of time with us inside her trailer and told us a few stories as well!  She mostly uses her trailer boondocking without hookups and showed us her briefcase solar panel to make off grid camping more enjoyable.  Dana loves her Scamp and customized it with unique drapes and decals.  She highly recommended Scamp.

After evaluating Dana’s trailer, our garage length, and the ways we planned to use the trailer, we thought the 13’ model would be perfect for us.  We don’t mind converting the bed to the dinette twice a day as it only takes a couple of minutes.   This actually gives us a much bigger dinette than if we had a 16’ with a side dinette and left the bed down all the time.  Additionally, we liked the idea of a shorter and lighter trailer for towing and having a few extra feet in the garage to give us more space.  Also, there are at least a couple of State Parks we planned to visit (e.g. D.L. Bliss in Lake Tahoe) that have trailer length limits of 15’ maximum.  The real clincher was the fact that the larger 54” full size bed is only available on the 13’ Standard or the 16’ Deluxe (which is much heavier and costlier than the 13’ Standard).  After doing considerable research online and taking some measurements, we knew for sure we wanted the 54” bed since we are two people!   I think if there are three people, the 16’ model is a better choice as it allows for additional sleeping space.  All the layouts can be viewed on the Scamp website here.

It didn’t take us too long to decide the Scamp 13’ Standard with 54” bed and bathroom was the right choice for us.  We never considered getting a trailer without a toilet and shower, so we didn’t have to decide on this option.  However, many people do buy Scamps without bathrooms and, instead, elect to use the facilities at the campgrounds (preferring the additional space for living over the convenience of an inside shower and toilet).   I prefer to avoid using public facilities and wasn’t going to make it a habit while traveling in a trailer, so a nice shower and bathroom was a must for us!  This choice has been validated many times for us on our first few trips (especially during the Pandemic now)!!!

The ordering process was pretty easy after deciding on the Standard 13’ Scamp with 54” full size bed and bathroom.  Alan, our Scamp sales rep., went through a list of options over the phone and explained any that we had questions about.  We ordered most options except the AC (since the trailer wouldn’t fit in our garage with it).  Shower & Toilet, check.  City Water (Std. with bath pkg.), check.  We ordered the Group 27 (larger) battery which stores more power and is useful for dry camping.  We added electric brakes (along with a brake controller) for the trailer which sync up with the car’s brakes for smoother control of the Scamp when braking.  One big option we ordered was the TV package ($800) which provides a digital TV in the Scamp along with a cable run to the outside and a digital TV antenna on the roof.  It’s a really nice package if you every want to watch over the air TV or cable at a RV park, streaming TV such as Netflix when you have WiFi, or use the TV to display movies played from your phone.  We found the over the air HD images to be crystal clear and a nice option when travelling to different cities (especially if you want to see local news or weather), but not so helpful at park campgrounds where non-existent or weak TV signals are the norm.  We added a ROKU to our TV on our own so we can watch SLING TV, Netflix, and Amazon Prime in addition to over the air TV when within a WiFi network.  We also download movies from Netflix and Amazon Prime and have a cable that allows my Samsung Galaxy S8 to display the movies on the Scamp TV (great for situations when no TV or WiFi signal is available).

We also ordered dual propane tanks which I think is really helpful because it can be difficult to know when a tank is near empty and with two tanks you can easily switch to the full tank when the first runs out of fuel and then refill the first tank when back home.  I think I would probably have two composite Viking tanks shipped directly to Scamp though (since you can see the liquid in the tank and they are apparently safer) if I ever ordered another Scamp again.  We added most of the other options [such as the electric/gas hot water heater, furnace, porch lights, 12V roof fan (a must), vinyl floor, outside GFI outlet (I recommend also adding a 12V outlet outdoors so you can use 12V pumps for tires), 2 LED reading lights, stove cover, and two additional 120V outlets (rear & kitchen area).]  We did not order a sink in the bathroom as it’s a small space and there is the kitchen sink which is almost an arm’s reach outside the bathroom door.  We opted for no exterior Scamp decals as we initially thought we would vinyl wrap the trailer, but later changed our minds when we saw how glossy and cool the White coating looks – very spaceship like.  Our total build price was $16,556 and we opted for home delivery (delivery price varies according to region) at $2,195 (Minnesota to San Diego).  We were told that the delivery driver would not sleep in or use anything inside the Scamp.  So, the total cost for the trailer was less than $20k.  Note – prices generally increase gradually every year.   ***We did decide after our first trip that the cushions were a bit too hard for us to sleep on, so we had softer cushions made locally (topic of future blog post).

The Scamp delivery driver, Ron, was extremely nice.  He called us in advance to arrange a good delivery date and kept us informed on his status during the three day drive to our home.  He had the Scamp washed the morning of the delivery and did a general walk through of the trailer when he arrived at our home.  We gave him a Cashier’s check upon delivery and we were now in the Scamp owner’s club!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.