Solutions

Solutions

How to Replace Broken Grey/Black Valve Handles and Caps

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How to Replace Broken Grey/Black Valve Handles and Caps
We just celebrated the two year anniversary of the delivery of our 2020 Scamp 13’.  In the past couple of years we’ve been to incredible places, seen miraculous things, and have had numerous adventures.  We’ve also been fortunate that there have been no major issues since receiving our trailer from the factory.  We have done a bunch of upgrades which make our Scamp much more comfortable and livable and all of these changes can be found on this website!  Sometimes, though, minor parts need to be replaced over time.  And, on our last trip (Anza Borrego Desert State Park), our Scamp did have some parts issues.  One of the valve handles broke apart when dumping.  And, at the same time, one of the two bayonet hooks, holding the black tank valve cover on, broke.

Once a valve handle breaks, it’s harder to open and close the valve when dumping.  Plastic parts are vulnerable to wear and tear and their eventual failure might also be accelerated by UV exposure when outside.  Fortunately, replacing the valve handles and caps to the grey and black tank connections is easy and inexpensive.   Rather than replace our broken valve handle with another plastic one, we went with this lightweight aluminum handle.  To remove and replace the broken handle, just use a pair of vice grips to stop the metal rod from turning and twist the broken handle counterclockwise to remove.  Similarly, twist the new handle clockwise onto the metal rod to install.  Note:  to avoid a mess, it’s best to completely drain all tanks before doing this to avoid pulling the valve rod open and accidentally releasing grey or black water.

When a cap cover bayonet hook breaks and the cap no longer seals securely onto the grey/black sewer connection pipe properly, the excess grey and black water runoff may leak onto the ground even after closing the valves.  That’s definitely a mess to avoid.  The stock valve covers only have two bayonet hooks, so if one breaks there isn’t much holding the cover on and providing a good seal.  So, when one of the hooks broke on our black tank valve cover, we chose a cap with 4 bayonet hooks instead of two.  That way, if one (or even two) breaks, the cover still can be securely sealed onto the drainage pipe.  This Camco cover seems to do a great job (and at the time of this writing is less than $5!).  The cover also comes with a garden hose connection, which is great for draining grey tank water into jugs (like what we do with our “Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution”).  Additionally, there may be some locations (e.g. BLM lands) where dumping grey water may be legal and having a long garden hose allows for the grey water to be dumped far away from the trailer.  Note:  Although we do use this cap on our black tank sewer connection, we never use the garden hose connection because it would likely get clogged with black water debris.  We only drain black water using standard 3” rv sewer hoses when connected directly to dump station drains.

So, if you find yourself in a situation where your grey or black tank handle snaps or one of your drain covers breaks, don’t be too concerned.  Just replace them easily and inexpensively!  It’s also a good idea to carry extras on hand when you travel, just in case.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Why We Prefer Primitive Campsites in Anza Borrego Desert State Park

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Why We Prefer Primitive Campsites in Anza Borrego Desert State Park
January 25th – 28th, 2022 (3 nights)

Having already enjoyed this beautiful desert state park a couple times in the past, we thought it would be fun to come back and try out the primitive campground area within the Borrego Palm Canyon Campground.  We like this campground because it’s only a couple of hours drive from our home in San Diego and has a nice warm desert vibe.  There’s great hiking and biking as well, along with a cute town which can be reached by bike.  There are numerous good restaurants along with interesting shops.  We stayed at the hookup area on our previous two visits.  The hookup area campsites are relatively close together and offer direct connections to electric, water, and sewer.  Many “snowbird” campers staying a week or longer to escape miserable winters at home (and often with large motorhomes) are common visitors at these sites.

On our first visit a couple of years ago, we admired some of the more private and scenic campsites in the “primitive” area of the campground at the base of the mountains.  These “primitive” sites offer no hookups, but there are water spigots near the campsites and a central dump station at the campground entrance.  At that time, we walked the entire campground and wrote down in our travel log all of our favorite primitive campsites, hoping to try one on a future visit.

When we received a text from friends in Sept. 2021 saying they were going to Borrego Palm Canyon campground in January 2022, we immediately reserved site #108 (based on our best campsite notes from our log book).  At that time, “dry” sites like this one without hookups cost $25/night with a $7.99 online reservation fee.  The hookup sites were $35/night.  But, just recently, prices for both types of sites increased $10/night (now $35/night dry and $45/night hookups)!  Some of the nicest primitive campsites are located at the back of the campground adjacent to the entrance of the Borrego Palm Canyon Trail, a 2.9 mile trail that leads to the third largest palm oasis in California (with California’s only native species of palm, the Fan palm).  The desert pup fish pond is also near the entrance of the Borrego Palm Canyon Trail.  These tiny (about 2.5 inches in length) rare endangered fish are able to survive in environments of extreme salinity, pH, and temperature, and low oxygen content.  You may have to be patient, but if you walk around the pond you will likely see some darting about.

When we arrived on a late January afternoon at our primitive campsite (#108), it was warm (in the low 70s) but the campsite was already in deep shade as it is at the base of one of the tall mountains behind which the sun sets in midafternoon.  The first thing we noticed is how roomy and private the primitive campsites are compared to the hookup area.  There are water spigots throughout the primitive campground and there is one right next to site #108.  Since we had a water spigot and also set up our solar panels, we had no issues with water or power during our three night stay.  We did bring our “holy grail portable grey water tank solution”, but decided instead to use the free central dump station at the entrance to the park since we also wanted to dump our black tank.   It only took us about thirty minutes total to hitch up our Scamp, drive down to the central dump, dump, and then set the Scamp up again on a weekday morning.  The primitive sites are still within walking distance to the main campground, so we were able to visit friends by taking a 15 minute walk or riding our bikes down to their hookup campsites.

On our second day, we had fun touring the metal sculptures (over 130 of them) in Galleta Meadows on our bikes.  These large metal shaped sculptures of people, animals and fantasy creatures are spread out over miles of desert, but the terrain is on flat quiet paved back roads, making the bike ride easy.  The metal artworks were created by artist Ricardo Breceda for Dennis Avery (of Avery labels), owner of Galleta Meadows.  It took us several hours to see almost all the sculptures.  We started our ride in the morning and ended with a nice late lunch at Pablito’s Mexican Bar & Grill in town.  By the time we finally made it back to the campground, we were tired as the gentle grade down to town turns into a lengthy gradual climb on the way back!  The entire loop is around twelve miles, which isn’t too much when on a bike, especially given most of the ride is very flat.  We were really glad we brought our bikes on this trip because the roads are mostly wide open and flat and having bikes makes it really convenient to explore.  The bike trip into town is an easy 15 minute ride.

In addition to the privacy and space the primitive campground provides, we also found it to be quieter as well as darker at night.  We noticed that the population density of campers in the primitive campsite area to be significantly less than at the hookup area.  Probably as a result, the area seemed more peaceful without noticeable campground noise.  In addition, because RVs aren’t lined up close together in rows like at the hookup sites, some with outdoor lights on, the primitive area seemed much darker.  This is really important when enjoying the stars, which is particularly significant at this park.  Anza Borrego State Park achieved its International Dark Sky Park rating in 2018 and, as such, is recognized as a premier place for stargazing.  We experienced wonderful stargazing first hand during nights at the primitive campground.

A visit to Anza Borrego Desert State Park wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the Visitor’s Center.  This time, we walked the short flat paved trail from the campground to the center.  There are placards along the way with descriptions of the plants and animals seen in the Anza Borrego Desert State Park.  The center has a theater, gift, and book store filled with great things related to Anza Borrego Desert.  The staff in the store are also really helpful if one has questions about trails or anything else Anza Borrego related.  On this trip, we picked up one of the current season’s Anza Borrego t-shirt designs along with a warm knit beanie with a bighorn sheep logo.

Now that we’ve tried both the hookup and primitive campgrounds at Borrego Palm Canyon Campground in the Anza Borrego Desert State Park, we can certainly recommend staying in the primitive campground for the many reasons explained above.  Overall, we found the stay at the primitive campground to be many factors more peaceful than our previous stays at the hookup area.  To be clear, we enjoyed our previous stays, but the primitive campground takes the desert experience to a new level.  Some nights we even heard animals (likely bighorn sheep) right outside our Scamp!  The quiet, the space, the peacefulness, and the darker skies without bright RV lights, definitely elevate the camping experience.  In addition, it’s also nice that it’s $10/night cheaper (at the time of this writing)!  Of course, there would be times when staying at the hookup campground might be preferable.  If we were planning on staying for an extended period of time and didn’t want the hassle of having to haul water from the spigot and driving to the central dump every four or five days (or needed power to run an AC or other energy hungry devices), then having hookups certainly makes things easier.  But, for us, we generally only stay a few days, and our main goal is to be in nature as much as possible.  And, that’s why we prefer primitive campsites in Anza Borrego Desert State Park … with more chances to see bighorn sheep!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Reflections on Owning a 2020 Scamp 13’ Trailer for Two Years

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Reflections on Owning a 2020 Scamp 13’ Trailer for Two Years

It’s already been two years since our Scamp 13’ arrived from the Scamp factory at the end of 2019!  So much has happened since, it now seems a good time to reflect on the decision to buy the trailer and what followed over the past couple of years.

We spent a long time deciding if buying, maintaining, and travelling with a travel trailer was a good idea.  Ultimately, we came to the conclusion that a travel trailer provides an excellent way to travel the U.S. and Canada since it allows for stays in national and state parks where no other comfortable and affordable accommodation may be available.  Additionally, we liked the idea of being able to provision the trailer with our own items including food and very comfortable and bedding (and not slept on by anyone else like in a hotel/motel).  Once we made our decision on getting a travel trailer, we spent at least a year comparing different models before finally deciding on the Scamp.  For the full story on our thought processes and final decision on purchasing a Scamp, click here.  The Scamp was an easy choice because we wanted something light and easy to tow yet very durable and not likely to get leaks.  Additionally, being able to store the trailer in our garage was a real deal maker.

It was relatively easy for us to decide on a Scamp model and configuration (there are 3 sizes and multiple configurations).  Since we definitely wanted the larger 54” bed, the choice was between the Standard 13’ and the Deluxe 16’ models (the only models offered with a 54” bed option in 2020).  We also absolutely had to have a bathroom.  The Deluxe models are very nice, but much heavier because the interior cabinetry is made with wood instead of fiberglass.  Since we wanted as light a trailer as possible, didn’t need the side dinette offered with the 16’, and liked the sleek look of the white high gloss fiberglass interior of the Standard model, we went the Scamp 13’ Standard with bathroom.  As for the rest of the options, we pretty much got it with everything (with the exception of the AC because it wouldn’t clear the height of our garage).  For the full story on this decision making process, click here.

Since Scamp trailers are very desirable and hold their value really well, there is usually a long wait from the time one is ordered until it is delivered.  In our case, the nine month wait time allowed us to go through the process of modifying the height of our garage entrance from seven to eight feet before our Scamp was delivered.  Having the Scamp stored in our garage is a big advantage as it allows us to provision the trailer before each trip without having to drive to a storage lot, saves on monthly storage fees, and also lets us dump our tanks in the garage using our sewer clean out (saving time and money after each trip by eliminating the need to drive to the nearest Dump station and paying to dump).  Another benefit is that the Scamp is stored out of the elements (keeps the trailer in great condition).  For the garage project, we needed to first get HOA approval from our neighborhood association, have an engineer draw plans for submission to the city, and then, after the permit was obtained, have a contractor do the work.  The entire garage project took a few months and cost about six thousand dollars, but was well worth it.  For a full story on this project, click here.

We started exploring with our Scamp 13’ in early 2020 and learned a lot about travelling with a travel trailer on each trip.  This is the first travel trailer we have ever owned and we had never camped before in our lives.  We received our Scamp with little introduction or explanations and figured out the operation of the trailer and how to tow mostly on our own (although there is an owner’s manual and the Scamp company is ready at the phones to courteously answer any questions).  Fortunately, we didn’t learn any really hard lessons in the process and we became more and more proficient after each trip.  For a look at the trips we’ve taken over the past two years, click here.

The most important thing we became proficient at early on is towing.  Although towing the small and light Scamp is pretty easy, it’s critical that the trailer is attached to the tow vehicle properly so that it stays safely attached while driving.  Additionally, learning how to back up the Scamp so positioning the trailer on the campsite pad becomes stress-free is important for enjoyable trips.  For complete details on how to tow with the Scamp, please see these articles:  How Easy is Towing, Secure Your Power Cords, How to Easily Hookup Up Your Hitch Ball, and Safely Positioning Your Trailer into Tight Spaces.

Learning how to operate each of the Scamp’s systems takes only a short period of time to understand, but it’s important to figure them out early in order to use the trailer without issues.  The main systems are the holding tanks (Fresh/Grey/Black), hot water tank, electrical system (click here for more information), furnace (heating), stove, and refrigerator.  The biggest challenge is being able to tell when systems are depleted (e.g. Fresh Water tank, Propane tank, battery) or full (in the case of the Grey and Black tanks).  Additionally, some of the systems run on more than one power source and it’s important to know when to switch them on or off.  For example, when dry camping, we run our Scamp refrigerator on propane (instead of electricity, which is used when hooked up to electric shore power).  To make things a little more confusing, these systems and their operation methods sometimes change by model year and/or model number.  None of these challenges should deter anyone from getting a travel trailer however, since everyone learns how their trailer operates within a few trips.

After two years (15 trips, 60 locations spanning 4 states, and 99 nights sleeping in the Scamp) and all the experiences we’ve had with our Scamp 13’, looking back, we can now easily say buying our Scamp 13’ was definitely worth it.  Having a travel trailer has allowed us to travel on a moment’s notice and explore locations where we otherwise wouldn’t have been able to stay (such as within national parks).  Additionally, the cost to travel has been significantly lower with a trailer compared to staying in hotels.  We’ve even had a number of free stay overs using Harvest Hosts!  Click here to learn more about Harvest Hosts and to see where we stayed.  For an economic analysis, click here.   And, perhaps best of all, we’ve made some great friends along the way and have visited family in distant cities more often than we would have without the trailer.  Perhaps the biggest stand out benefit in getting our Scamp 13’ (which arrived a few months before the Pandemic started in early 2020), has been having the ability to travel at a time when it would have been extremely difficult and risky to do it any other way.

The Scamp 13’ has proven to be a reliable and great travel trailer.  We haven’t had any major issues with the Scamp and it has been easy to maintain.  We have had to learn some simple maintenance procedures to keep everything in good order, but these have been easy to understand and implement.  We’ve also had fun upgrading and modifying the Scamp.  Click here for more information on everything we’ve learned and implemented.  We are really glad we chose a travel trailer instead of a van or motorhome because the trailer is relatively inexpensive in comparison to own, operate, and insure.  Additionally, it’s great to be able to unhitch the Scamp and use our tow vehicle once we are at the campground to easily explore the area.  The biggest issue someone might have with the Scamp 13’ might be its small size and many might be happier with a larger trailer.  But, remember, the larger the trailer the more limited the choice of campsites.  The Scamp 13’ can pretty much fit into every available size RV campsite at a campground!

Consider the costs (including insurance and storage) and how much time you intend to travel when making a decision to get a trailer.  From a purely economic standpoint, owning a travel trailer is most advantageous if one doesn’t pay too much for the trailer and uses it regularly.  It’s also important to know if a travel trailer will be comfortable for you (and your family) before you make the investment.  We took the risk and purchased our Scamp without ever trying one out.  But, another option is to rent a travel trailer before buying (and perhaps test other options as well, like a van or motorhome for comparison) to see if this mode of travel is good for you.  Once you’ve conducted your own thoughtful analysis, you will be in a great position to make a decision on whether owning and travelling with a travel trailer is a good fit for you and your family.  As we start 2022, we are very enthusiastic in beginning another year travelling with our Scamp 13’ and are already looking forward to a number of future trips!   Happy & healthy New Year!

Follow Up Article Published November 2024

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Safely Positioning Your Trailer into Tight Spaces

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Safely Positioning Your Trailer into Tight Spaces
One undoubtedly will encounter situations on adventures where it may be tricky getting their small travel trailer into its spot.  These types of events often occur when arriving at a destination and either access is difficult (e.g. narrow entrance, steep entrance, tight turn, etc.) or the parking spot itself is challenging (e.g. trees or other potential hazards surround the site).  The key to successfully overcoming these obstacles is to take things slowly, have a helper if possible, and carry along a couple of useful items (e.g. walkie talkies and 2×4 wood parking chocks).

Since backing into a site is a very common approach at many campgrounds, it’s important to have eyes behind the trailer during the backing up process.  A backup camera on the small travel trailer can help, but it’s always best to have a helper outside and behind the trailer who can speak via two way radio with the driver.  We always carry a pair of small walkie talkies with us in the tow vehicle and use them pretty much every time we arrive at the campsite (an inexpensive pair will do since distance between radios is very limited).  Your partner will safely guide you into the spot and give a rough countdown in feet until you should stop backing up.   Before backing up into your spot though, park the tow vehicle if possible and get out and walk behind the trailer to survey the parking site.  This also lets you talk to your partner and arrive at a general understanding on the best area to place and park the trailer.  It’s good to take into consideration which area of the site is most level, shady, allows the trailer door enough room to open, has a level surface for the rear stabilizer pads, and any other desired features.  If you don’t have a helper, getting out of the vehicle is really important as well to help you survey the campsite.

Taking things slowly is the best way to avoid any mishaps.  For small travel trailers, this means always backing up slowly and taking the time to stop backing up and pulling forward to straighten out before backing up again.  Straightening out the trailer whenever the angle between the trailer and the tow vehicle starts to get significant makes backing into the spot much easier.  Ideally, it’s easiest to back into a spot with no or almost no angle between the tow vehicle and the small travel trailer.  This may mean straightening out a few times, but, overall it makes the process much easier (vs. backing in at a radical angle).  It also may make hitching up the trailer again when leaving easier if the hitch is parallel to the entrance to the campsite.  Once you have identified all potential hazards after surveying the trailer’s parking spot, proceed with caution and listen closely to your helper over the radio (or, if working alone, take time to go slowly and park and get out whenever necessary to check on your progress).

The easiest campsites to get into are the ones that are called “pull through” sites.  As the name suggests, these sites just involve driving straight into the campsite tow vehicle first.  We visited such a site at Pismo Beach North Beach Campground.  Pulling into our site here was a breeze (and right next to the beach)!  We simply drove through the campground and then drove right into our site.  We did unhitch and move our tow vehicle a few feet forward so we could easily raise and lower our electric tongue jack for leveling the trailer.  Hitching back up and leaving was also a piece of cake.  We have only stayed at a couple of campsites so far at a pull through site.

Most of the campgrounds we have visited have been campsites which require backing the trailer onto the pad.  For the most part, this is generally pretty straightforward (while following the tips above).  However, occasionally we have had times when the campsite pad was angled such that driving in only one direction would make backing onto the pad possible.  We encountered this at one of the first campgrounds we ever visited, D.L. Bliss State Park in Lake Tahoe.  Our campsite was located near the bottom of a steep narrow road overlooking the lake.  The campsite pad was angled forward toward the lake, making attempts to try to back onto the pad fruitless (greater than a 90 degree angle in the wrong direction between the road and the pad).  And, the road was so narrow that there was no room to use the tow vehicle to angle the trailer in such an extreme way.  Fortunately, a neighboring camper was watching and he informed us that there was a turnaround at the bottom of the road so we could approach the pad from the opposite direction.  Once we turned around, it was very easy to back our Scamp 13’ into its spot since the angle of the road and pad were compatible in this direction.  We’ve also had other experiences where driving a little forward onto the shoulder of the access road was necessary to straighten out the trailer enough to back onto the pad.  This usually occurs when the main road is very narrow.

One of the most difficult approaches to make with your trailer is when there is a steep transition onto a driveway (see video).  This usually happens when staying at someone’s house or other private location.  Backing in slowly and having a helper calling out the progression is of utmost importance in these situations to avoid scraping the rear parts of the trailer’s undercarriage and or damaging the front trailer tongue jack.  If the transition is too great and parts of the trailer will not clear, having a couple of 2 x 4 boards (short wheel chocks may work) might mean the difference between getting into and out of the driveway unscathed or either giving up or suffering trailer damage.  The most important thing is to go very slowly and stop as soon as it looks like something on the trailer may scrape on the driveway.  You will need to assess if the boards you are using to raise the rear of your tow vehicle will be satisfactory enough to provide proper clearance.  It’s important to note that if something looks too dicey it’s always better to forgo the attempt and park somewhere else than risk damaging your trailer (we’ve done this before and elected not to take the risk and parked on the street instead).

We did experience the above type of situation while visiting my sister’s house in Oakland on the 4th of July.  We didn’t want to park and sleep on the street in East Oakland because it gets very rowdy in this area on this holiday.  The transition angle from street to driveway at my sister’s house is severe and although the bottom rear of our Scamp 13’ just cleared, it was evident that our electric tongue jack was going to hit the driveway if we proceeded (see video).  So, we stopped the trailer and took a couple of our 2 x 4 wheel chocks and placed them under each rear wheel of our tow vehicle.  As we drove up on the boards, the tongue jack raised enough to navigate over the steepest part of the transition and avoid hitting the ground.  That wasn’t the only challenge we had on this driveway!  The clearance on each side of the Scamp 13’ was minimal due to a fence on one side and home wall on the other and having a helper watch each side of the trailer as I backed in slowly was essential!  It is important to note, that we also needed to use the 2 x 4s when pulling out of the driveway as well (adding the 2 x 4s in front of the rear wheels at the same spot where the tongue jack initially wasn’t going to clear).  Everything worked out well and we have stayed in my sister’s driveway a couple of times now using this method without incident!

With careful planning, taking things slowly, having some proper tools and preferably a helper, navigating your small travel trailer into tight spaces will become not only entirely possible but very rewarding.  The satisfaction gained is only recognized after having done it!  And, after you do it once, you may want to do it again and again (or not)!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

The Scamp “Enema”

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The Scamp “Enema”
Many small travel trailers, the Scamp 13’ included, have toilets that sit atop their Black tanks.  This simple system allows biological waste to be stored directly under the toilet and then eliminated (dumped into the sewer) when the camper’s Black tank valve is opened at the Dump site.  The opening at the base of the toilet bowl is closed by default until the user depresses the toilet lever (usually on the side of the toilet), which opens the toilet bowl hole and allows the waste to drop into the Black tank.  Surprisingly, this toilet mechanism keeps offensive smells mostly contained in the tank so bathroom odors should not get out of hand as long as the Black tank is properly maintained.

During our first year with our 2020 Scamp 13’, we relied exclusively on Happy Campers (see article “Drain and Clean Your Tanks Regularly …“) to sanitize our tanks.  This is a very effective organic holding tank treatment that dissolves solids and eliminates odors.  We have been extremely satisfied with Happy Campers and have continued to use it.  However, even with holding tank treatments, sometimes our Black tank sensor (SeeLevel II) reads a small percentage level in the tank even after dumping and treating.  I called Scamp and they suggested hosing down the inside of the Black tank to get rid of all residue.  To do this, simply attach the Dump hose to the Black valve on camper end and sewer connection on the other end, open the valve to release all material in the Black tank into the sewer, leave the valve open and the Dump hose connected to the camper valve and sewer connection, and take a garden hose into the Scamp bathroom.  Either have the garden hose turned on and the valve on the hose off or have someone turn the garden hose on once you are at the toilet with the toilet lever depressed.  Then with the hose pointed into the Black tank (toilet bowl hole open) spray inside the Blank tank.  It’s a good idea to wear a face mask covering your mouth just in case there is splash back!  Use the high pressure spray to shoot water all the way around inside the Black tank.  You should be able to see any remaining debris flush out and go down into the sewer connection hole at the base of the Black tank.  After completing, close the Blank tank valve and remove the Dump hose.  Once you are done, the tank should be extremely clean with no visible residue.

Now, complete the Happy Campers regimen (e.g. 1 scoop Happy Campers in 1 gallon of water into sink / toilet followed by 2 additional gallons water) and let mixture sit in tanks for at least several days to sanitize.  Then, drain both tanks.  Your tanks should now be very clean and sanitized and ready for your next trip!  Ever since we started giving our Scamp “Enemas” after each trip, our Black tank sensor consistently reads 0 after each cleanse.  Tanks so much!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Secret Planning Tools & Strategies For Long Distance RV Trips

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Secret Planning Tools & Strategies For Long Distance RV Trips
Planning a long distance RV trip with multiple stops can be overwhelming.  Questions such as:  Where to go?  Where to stay?  How much will campgrounds cost?  How long to stay at each stop?  Are there amenities such as hookups?  Where are dump stations along the route?  and many others often arise when arranging such a trip.  Where to begin?!!!  I’ve put together a number of tools and strategies below which hopefully will help answer many of these questions and make the process of trip planning fun.

When and Where to Go?
The answer to this question is often dictated by the weather.  Unless one has an important reason to go somewhere specific, such as a business trip or family gathering, most of us will head to locations where the weather is good so we can enjoy our RV vacations (which usually involve a lot of outdoors activities).   In planning trips for our Scamp 13’ (with San Diego as our home base), paying attention to good weather usually means planning coast and mountain trips in the summer, all types of trips in the late spring and early fall, and coast and desert trips in the winter.  By following this method, we usually avoid temperature extremes, which can not only be extremely uncomfortable, but also damaging to the pipes (e.g. freezing) in small travel trailers.  Living in California, we are lucky in that there are usually locations throughout the year where the weather is favorable for small travel trailer trips.

In addition to the weather, it’s also a good idea to plan trips around locations of interest to you.  It only makes sense going places you will enjoy.  I have a friend who likes to attend the big annual quilting show in Sisters, Oregon every July.  Another friend loves fishing and has a standing reservation at Silver Lake Resort.  Building a trip around these activities is the perfect way to enjoy your small travel trailer and a fun interest at the same time.  Personally, I enjoy going to National and State Parks for the outdoor activities and many of my trips are to these locations.  After all, one of the big advantages of having a small travel trailer is being able to stay within these parks (often where hotels are non-existent or extremely expensive like the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite).  But, I also enjoy going to unique locations of interest, such as farm stays or specialty locations.  For example, I’m currently planning a fall trip through Oregon and hope to stay at several specialty stops including this alpaca farm, airport and airplane museum, small railroad depot, and organic farm.

Lastly, it’s often our schedules that dictate when we go.  For example, families may only be able to travel in the summer.  In these cases, pay close attention not only to the weather but also the potential for crowds when trip planning.  Even if the weather is good at a particular location during the planned travel month, if may not be a lot of fun if there are big crowds (such as at certain National parks).  I’ve found that going to lesser known parks can be equally enjoyable during the summer months.  For example, we had an awesome time at Lassen Volcanic National Park this past July and probably enjoyed it as much as our Yosemite trip two months earlier.

Planning Tools
Once you have decided when and where you want to go, it’s time to utilize some key travel planning tools which will not only help you decide on the best travel routes, best places to stay, and where to dump, but also potentially will save you a lot of money and make your trip more memorable!  The first tool I recommend is using Google Maps to search drive times between your planned stops.  Search “drive time from X to X”.

We try to limit our daily driving to no more than 4 hours per day (and driving no more than 2 consecutive days in a row).  However, we do sometimes make exceptions to facilitate certain trips (occasionally driving 5 or 6 hours if necessary and/or driving more than 2 consecutive days in a row if the drives are 3 hours or less and we want to visit a certain location).  For example, in the summer we go to Mammoth Lakes in the mountains (about a 7 hour drive), but it’s not possible to stay overnight midway as it is the desert and too hot.  However, when we arrive we often stay several days at each location, making the long drive on the first day worthwhile.

A second free tool is the AAA Triptik Travel Planner.  It’s free, but you have to have a AAA membership if you want to save your trip (which isn’t really a big deal unless you are plotting out a lot of stops and want to come back to refer to the website map in the future).  This is a fantastic route planner because it gives a lot of great information.  It shows your route on a map along with pins at each stop (which you can print).  You can set a time or distance interval that highlights with a circle on the map each interval.  For example, if you want to limit each day to 4 hours driving, you can set a 4 hour interval and then the tool highlights these intervals on the map with red circles.  The map lists trip total drive time and miles along with complete step by step driving directions (if you want).  There is also a selectable legend that will show gas stations, campsites, restaurants, and other areas of interest on the map.

Sometimes it may be necessary to find an RV DUMP Station along your route.  Having this information in advance can be very useful as it may allow you to stay at free locations (such as Boondockers Welcome or Harvest Host sites) without having to spend money for a campground just to have access to a dump.  This RV Dump Stations Map by Roundabout Publications (publisher of travel books) is a third free tool which shows Dump stations all over the country (note:  I have not verified the accuracy of this map so use at your own discretion).  In addition to showing dump station locations, the map also has a legend indicating the cost of the station (some are even free!).  In our experience, private dumps generally charge between $7 to $10 per dump.

State and regional parks often have websites and maps showing state and regional campground site locations (the 4th free tool).  For example, on the Oregon trip I’m planning, I referred to the Oregon State Parks “Find a Park” map extensively.  And many regional parks have campground maps that provide campsite locations.  For example, Sonoma County has this regional campground map.  I’ve found that state and regional parks campgrounds often offer very generous amounts of campsite space and tend to be an excellent value.

If you think you might enjoy some niche stays, such farms, wineries, museums, or people’s homes/driveways, consider joining both Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Hosts (inexpensive annual memberships).  With this 5th tool, just a couple of stays will offset the cost of the annual subscription.  Before signing up, go to their websites and view host location maps.  The Harvest Host map even lets you plot your route and shows stay locations on the map!  If it looks like there are many places to stay on your route, perhaps give it a try.  We’ve had great stays using these memberships and enjoyed meeting the hosts.  Also, memberships can allow you to save a lot of money if you stay at multiple locations throughout the year (as individual stays are free / although we generally give a small gift or make a purchase).

Power Tools:  Using All Tools Together
I’ve found it incredibly efficient to use all of the above tools simultaneously together to review maps regarding the route and stops (Google Maps / AAA Triptik), Dump station locations (RV Dump Stations Map) , available campgrounds (AAA Triptik / State & Regional Parks map), and boondocking sites (Boondockers Welcome / Harvest Hosts).  To do this, just open up multiple browsers so you can jump back and forth comparing all the information.  Doing this allowed me to quickly see driving times and possible campsite locations on my planned trip.  I was also able to identify some interesting boondocking possibilities without being concerned about a lack of a dump station at these locations (since I also had the Dump Station map and knew there were dumping options on the drive).

Fun Things to Do
Now that you have figured out when and where you are going, made a map of your trip (and chosen stops so you aren’t driving much longer than 4 hours per day and limiting travelling to no more than two consecutive days of driving), it’s a good idea to get some insider information on fun things to do at your locations.  A few sources I’ve found helpful (beyond just Google searches) are campground reviews, State tourism commission websites, and a couple of travel websites.  For example, when I searched Wallowa Lake State Park campground reviews, along with actual reviews of the campground, I found some great tips.  There are recommendations for things to do and places to go, like taking the tramway to the top of Mount Howard, trails to hike, great restaurants (like the Wallowa Lake Lodge), good shopping (including art and bronze galleries) in the town of Joseph, and fishing.  State tourism commission websites are also good sources of local knowledge.  I checked Oregon’s “Travel Oregon” website for our upcoming trip and found some interesting things to do that I didn’t see anywhere else.  For example, I definitely plan to reserve a pedal train car with Joseph Branch Railriders!  I did something like this in Sweden and it was a blast!  Tripadvisor and TripSavvy are a couple of travel advisory websites that are good for providing lists of fun things to do.  Here is the TripSavvy list for Joseph, OR.

Conclusion
Now that you are armed with these Secret Planning Tools and Strategies for your future long distance RV trips, you can rest easy knowing that “you’ve got this”!  You can now plan RV trips like a pro and have fantastic experiences without the stress which typically comes with figuring all this stuff out!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to use Magnets to Create a Comfy Dry Bath

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How to use Magnets to Create a Comfy Dry Bath

***WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD – Small parts (magnets). Keep away from children and pets.***
***WARNING: Magnetic Field – magnetic fields may interfere with pacemakers / other health devices.***

After you have converted your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone (see “How to Turn Your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone” if you haven’t done this already), turn toward magnets for a better way to secure your shower curtain to the walls rather than using hooks.

We initially used plastic hooks attached to the wall with Velcro in our Scamp to secure the shower curtain so we could pull it across the front of the toilet area to keep it dry while showering.  However, after using this system for a while, it became frustrating because the shower curtain often would slide off the hooks.

While considering a number of different approaches, the idea of using small magnets to quickly attach the shower curtain to the side of the wall stood out.  I have worked with small rare earth magnets on numerous projects in the past for securing hatches in model aircraft, so I felt comfortable that they might work well for this application.

The basic approach is to use the existing PVC rod in the Scamp (above the inside of the bathroom door used to hold the door curtain) to secure the door side of the curtain by putting a ring on it at the end.  Then, it’s just a matter of pulling the curtain across the toilet compartment and securing it on the other side of the wall with magnets (which quickly hold the curtain securely in place).  Because the Scamp has a rat fur type of headliner, the magnets are applied directly onto the fiberglass wall for a more secure attachment (top and bottom of the wall and along the wood door frame on door side).

I decided to use small inexpensive rare earth magnets which I purchased at Harbor Freight for less than $3 for a ten pack.  I ended up purchasing three packs (30 magnets) so I would have plenty of magnets to work with (remember, each connection uses a pair).

I chose to use hot glue to secure the magnets to the fiberglass because it is quick to apply and can easily be removed if necessary.  The downside is that the magnets can pop off if enough pressure is put on them. I purchased a mini glue gun at Michaels Art Supply for less than $3 along with some extra mini glue sticks.

I selected three mounting points at the top and bottom of the wall for the curtain to attach along with several points on the door frame to hold the curtain.  I used a pair of angled needle nose pliers to hold a magnet while I applied a bead of hot glue to the back and then, using the plier handles, pressed each magnet against the fiberglass (or wood) and held for a few seconds until the glue dried.  Installing the magnets is quick and easy!

To secure the shower curtain, just pull it across the toilet area and, using magnets, secure it to the wall along the areas where there are magnets glued to the Scamp’s fiberglass wall (and also along the wood door frame).  When the curtain isn’t in use, I leave enough magnets stuck to the door frame on one of the magnet locations so they are easy to reach when needed.  The idea is that the shower curtain is used when showering and then simply detached and rolled up and tucked on the door side when not in use.  You will find that this method works well for keeping the toilet area dry (along with the toilet paper).

We had a chance to vigorously test the new magnetic system on our recent 11 night trip from our home in San Diego to Lassen Volcanic National Park (see our recent trip report).  We found that the magnets work really well, but care needs to be taken when removing the magnets after showering to prevent the underlying magnets which are attached to the fiberglass wall from pulling off.  After a little experience, we learned that it’s best to slide the top magnet to the side rather than pull straight back.  When we adopted this approach, we stopped having any problems with magnets popping off.  However, when we returned from our trip, I glued secondary redundant magnets next to each magnet so that even if one pops off during a trip there are still plenty of magnet points to attach to.  9/4/2021 UPDATE:  I found the small round magnets pop off too easily from the fiberglass, so I switched to these bar magnets for the ones attached to the Scamp.  This seems to be much more secure.  Overall, we have found that this is an excellent solution to securing a shower curtain in the Scamp as it quickly creates a great comfy dry bath.

After doing everything in this article, you should have a reasonably dry toilet compartment after each shower!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Dumping for Beginners

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Dumping for Beginners
If there are any holding tanks (Grey or Black) within your small travel trailer, you will need to Dump them before they are completely full.  The Fresh tank holds your fresh water supply for your sink, shower (and hot water heater), and toilet – this tank does not need to be dumped because it feeds both the Grey and Black tanks.  The Grey tank holds the run-off water from your sink and shower.  And, the Black tank holds the waste water from the toilet.  Some small travel trailers have tank monitors which tell how full each tank is by pressing a button (we had one of these installed in our Scamp).  If your small travel trailer doesn’t have a tank monitor, then you will need to learn how to tell when it is time to Dump the tanks through other means like visual inspection.

We have learned through experience that the Grey tank is a small travel trailer’s Achilles heel when hookups aren’t available.  For us two people (taking 2 showers each night), our twenty one gallon Grey tank fills up in about three days.  Once the Grey tank is full, water can no longer drain from the shower floor or sink, and water backing up into these areas is highly likely.  The Fresh water tank is much easier to manage because the 12 gallon tank can easily be refilled using a portable water jug and water is usually available at most campgrounds (but not all).  Additionally, water can be stored in portable containers and transported in the tow vehicle.  We’ve found that the 9 gallon Black tank takes much longer to fill than the Grey tank.  Our Black tank usually takes about 6 days (two people) before needing to be dumped.

When it is time to Dump, which will likely be on your very first trip, you will want to make sure you are prepared with some essential supplies and knowledge.  The basic items needed are disposable sanitary gloves (e.g. latex gloves) and a RV sewer hose.  I keep latex gloves in our tow vehicle so they are ready to grab as soon as we pull up to the Dump station.  Side note:  some Dump stations also have potable water (safe to drink) filling stations (like Upper Pines Campground in Yosemite).  If you are pulling in dry and need to fill your Fresh tank, this is usually done first before messing with the dirty stuff.  I like to use my own Fresh hose if possible (for sanitary reasons) and I always attach a water filter to run the water through before it enters our Scamp.

Our Scamp 13’ travel trailer has two separate valves for dumping (both on the Driver’s side) –a Black water valve at the front of the trailer to dump toilet waste (labeled SEWER HOLDING TANK), and a Grey water valve at the back of the trailer to dump all the Grey water (labeled WASTE WATER HOLDING TANK).  We use one RV sewer hose for dumping both Black and Grey tanks (one at a time).  Because the Scamp 13’ has two valves on the opposite ends of the trailer, the first thing I do when pulling up to the Dump drain is to center the trailer on the drain so that the sewer hose will be able to reach the drain when connected to either the Black or Grey valves without having to move the Scamp.  If your small travel trailer only has one valve (e.g. one tank for both Black and Grey waste), then just pull right up so the dump drain and your single valve are aligned.  It’s a good idea if you do have two valves to drain your Black tank first and follow up by draining your Grey tank – this allows the Grey water to wash out the toilet waste water and keeps the RV sewer hose cleaner.

Easy Dump Steps:

  1. Pull your trailer up to the Dump station and align your valve(s) appropriately so your RV sewer hose will easily be able to reach from each valve connection to the Dump drain.
  2. Put on disposable sanitary gloves
  3. Pull your RV sewer hose outside its holding container (on our Scamp 13’, it’s held in a tube attached to the front of the trailer).
  4. Uncap the Black tank valve opening (but do not pull the valve lever yet). Connect bayonet hose fitting onto your Black tank valve (ensure it is securely attached with both bayonet sides engaged).
  5. Stretch out the hose and, with your shoe, open up the Dump cover (usually there is a little metal plate at the hinge that you can press on with your shoe to open up the Dump cover).
  6. Insert your RV sewer hose into the Dump hole at least a few inches into the hole so it won’t pull out while dumping.
  7. Release pressure on the Dump hinge plate with your shoe so that the Dump cover rests on top of the RV sewer hose and securely holds it in place (sometimes there is also a rock nearby that you can place on top of the cover to be extra secure). You definitely don’t want your hose coming out while dumping!
  8. Once you are satisfied that your RV sewer hose is securely attached to your tank valve and also inserted properly into the Dump hole, pull on your trailer’s Black tank valve handle to release the contents of the tank (Black first, and Grey after if you have two separate tanks).
  9. Allow plenty of time for all the contents of the tank to flow out. You may need to lift the center of the RV sewer hose a few times if there isn’t a good downward slope from trailer to Dump hole to ensure waste contents move along into the hole.
  10. After done with the Black tank, close the Black tank valve, and carefully detach the RV sewer hose from the Black tank valve (as you do it, position the hose right under the valve drain so as to catch any remaining residual runoff), recap the Black valve opening, and move over and uncap the Grey tank valve opening and attach the RV sewer hose to the Grey tank valve and repeat the steps above. Make sure all tank valves are recapped when complete.
  11. If there is a dump wash hose nearby, you can rinse out your RV sewer hose before placing it back into its holder.

Our travel strategy thus far has been to carefully arrange stops so that the ones without a Dump are limited to only a few days maximum (or have a Dump station available at a convenient service station).  For example, on our trip to Lake Tahoe last July, we first stopped in Santa Barbara and driveway-camped at our Cousin Jon’s house.  Since our next stop was going to be at an olive oil farm in Paso Robles without hookups followed by street camping at my sister’s house in Oakland, we dumped at a 76 station on the way out of Santa Barbara.  We didn’t want to risk having a full Grey tank and not being able to use any water in our Scamp.  We knew we could dump at DL Bliss State Park at Lake Tahoe after our Oakland stay over, so we would be OK as long as we did this interim Dump.  The following month, we took a trip to Observatory Campground (Palomar Mountain) to view the stars.  There are no hookups there (although water spigots are available), so again we needed to carefully consider our time up on Palomar Mountain to ensure our Grey tank was not filled up (we ended up staying only one night).

Dumping is easy and fun once you get the hang of it.  It’s a great feeling when everything is connected properly and one pulls the lever and the tanks are drained.  And, after a while, you will know how to plan your dump days so that you always have plenty of holding tank space during your trips.  Once you are at that point, which should be fairly quickly, you will likely enjoy singing the featured original song in this demonstration video!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

No Hookups, No Problem!

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No Hookups, No Problem!
While going through my pre-trip checklist (see my article “Use Checklists to Prevent Problems”) right before heading out to Yosemite a couple of weeks ago, I noticed our heavy duty surge protector hadn’t been used in a while.  The surge protector has been sitting in its cardboard box on the top shelf of our garage cabinets and collecting dust for some time.  In May 2021, we were fortunate to be able to stay within the park at Yosemite (Upper Pine Campground), but had to plan for no hookups as the Yosemite campsites don’t have any (which is often the case in National and State parks), so we didn’t need to take the surge protector.  During the trip, we used our 100W solar briefcase (two 50W panels) every day, and even though our campsite was mostly shaded, there was always enough sunlight to keep our Scamp’s batteries well charged.

Our campsite at Yosemite also lacked any other hookups (e.g. water and sewer).  However, there is a central dump station at the entrance of Upper Pines Campground and drinking water spigots at each bathroom.  We dumped on the way into the campground and used our Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution so that we didn’t need to move the Scamp all week!  I filled up our portable Grey tanks (four 5 gallon jugs) once during the week and drove them to the central dump early in the morning when there is little activity at the dump station and poured them out.  Filling our Fresh tanks was easy using our dolly and 6-gallon water jug.  The water spigot near our campsite was just a short walk away and the spigot had high pressure, so filling our Fresh jug was super-fast.  I made two or three water refill runs during our Yosemite stay.

Having had a chance to reflect back on the past year and a half since receiving our new Scamp 13’ using our trip log book (see my article “Take A Page From Star Trek and Log Your Travels”), I was surprised to realize how few times we actually used any types of hookups!  We sometimes used electrical and water hookups while staying in the driveways of family, but for the most part, our stays have mostly been at National and State parks where no hookups were provided.  And, these stays have usually been at locations where central dump stations and water spigots were available and our solar panels (along with our Jackery 500) served to maintain a sufficient charge on our Scamp battery.

Along with solar panels, we rely heavily on liquid Propane during most of our stays.  Propane does a great job of powering most of our appliances which can run on this gas.  Propane is efficient and can last a long time.  Appliances in our Scamp that can run off propane are the gas stove, refrigerator, furnace, and hot water heater.  The great thing about propane is that you can carry a lot of it (we always carry 2 Viking composite propane tanks) and it can be run without hookups.  One tank can usually last us over 10 days even in very cold weather when we run our furnace.  One just has to take care to follow proper safety protocols when running propane.  Small travel trailers are usually outfitted with combination carbon monoxide/propane detector alarms; the one in our 2020 Scamp 13’ is located near the front door under one of the dinette seats.  It’s essential that every small travel trailer have one of these alarms because carbon monoxide and propane gas exposure can be lethal.

After almost two years of travelling with our Scamp 13’ to mostly State and National parks, we’ve learned that during our stays water is usually available via spigot (or it can be brought in containers) and electricity can most often be provided by the Sun using solar panels (assuming good weather).  We’ve noticed that the Scamp’s electricity demands are not high (especially if using a battery bank, such as the Jackery 500 in which to run non-essential tasks like watching the 12V television and charging devices like phones, cameras, etc.) and propane can also be used to alleviate electricity demand by powering our refrigerator.  And, lastly, we’ve learned we can extend our time between trips to the Dump Station by as much as 5 or 6 days by using portable containers to hold Grey Water.  Ultimately, it’s the Black and Grey tanks that force us to a Dump Station (see my article “Why It’s Smart to be a Zen Boondocker….”).

So, instead of steering clear of campgrounds without hookups, embrace them and expand your options for adventures.  And, once you understand the constraints of your small travel trailer, you can plan your trips so that Dump Station stops occur when you need them (such as every five or six days), allowing you to stay in one place longer and more easily (by using portable Grey Tank containers which can be dumped independently of your trailer).  Happy Camping!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Outfitting Your Small Travel Trailer for its Maiden Voyage

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Outfitting Your Small Travel Trailer for its Maiden Voyage
One of the great benefits of owning a small travel trailer is that it can be set up with all the basic essentials and, in turn, be ready to go on a moment’s notice.  Since there is minimal storage available in a small travel trailer, it’s very important to carefully select what is really necessary for your travels.  All of these things will need to fit in a small number of drawers and cabinets, like living on a boat or in a tiny home.  It’s likely that you will refine this list after having some experience in the field and learning your needs.  Just like at home, you will need items for each room / function within your small travel trailer.  

The Kitchen
You will want your kitchen to be fully functional and ready to cook meals and wash and dry dishes.  Essential kitchen items include a long stick lighter (and a backup lighter) to be able to light the gas stove.  The kitchen supplies we carry in our Scamp 13’ are:

Kitchen Drawer

  • Rubber Utensil Holder Organizer (washable)
  • Sporks (combo forks / spoons)
  • Tea bags / tea strainer
  • Scissors
  • Can opener
  • Rubber spatula
  • Wooden spoons
  • Metal Citrus Squeezer
  • Measuring Spoons
  • Long stick Lighter
  • Cutting knife with cover
  • Cutting board
  • Metal spatula
  • Coasters (Cork) (x2)

Cabinets Above Kitchen Sink

  • Paper Bowls
  • Paper Plates
  • Measuring Cups
  • Metal canteens (bowls)
  • Plastic cups/Bowls/Plates (reusable)
  • Metal Cups (for hot drinks like tea & cocoa)
  • Small Lightweight Metal Tea Kettle
  • Tupperware (x2) for food storage
  • Extra Microfiber kitchen towels (x2)

On Kitchen Wall

Cabinet Below Kitchen Sink

The Bathroom
It’s best to keep the bathroom as minimalist as possible because it’s small and room is necessary to move around.  In turn, the only items we put in the bathroom are placed in a space saving way.

Cabinets Above Dinette (x2)
The small cabinets above the Scamp 13’ dinette are a great place to store little things.

Main Upper Storage Cabinet

Lower Storage Cabinet

Once you outfit your small travel trailer with all the essentials, you will be ready to go on a moment’s notice.  You will still need to pack all your clothing and food for each trip, but will rest assured knowing you have all your key trailer supplies at hand and will not have to think about packing these items over and over again and you’ll live happily ever after!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.