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Why & How I Easily Converted My Scamp Travel Trailer from a Lead Acid to Lithium Battery

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Why & How I Easily Converted My Scamp Travel Trailer from a Lead Acid to Lithium Battery

Why Switch?  The Benefits of Lithium Batteries
Our 2020 Scamp 13’ came with a wet lead acid battery (Northern brand Group 27 – est. capacity 67 -100 amp-hours) which was manufactured in June 2019.  [Note:  the term amp-hours (Ah) is a measure of battery capacity.  For example, a 100Ah 12-volt lithium battery can provide 100 amps to a 12-volt 100 amp device for one hour (after which time the battery would be completely depleted).  The same 100Ah battery could supply power for 4 hours to a 25 amp device (100/25=4).].  We find we use about 12 amp-hours per day (running LED lights, pumps, etc.) when boondocking (no electrical hookup), giving us about 8 days of power (100/12=8.3 days) if we don’t use any source to recharge the battery.

The lead acid battery is considered “wet” because it has liquid solution (battery acid) and requires monitoring levels.  If the liquid levels get too low, the battery can be damaged.  So, periodically, the plastic caps have to be opened on the top of the battery and distilled water added (other maintenance is also recommended on occasion such as periodic equalization and checking electrolytes – but, who does this?!!!).  These batteries can also off-gas hydrogen when charging, so they need to be vented to release the fumes (on a travel trailer, this means they are mounted outside on the trailer’s tongue).  The average lifespan of a lead acid battery is 3 – 5 years but can vary depending on the manufacturing process, the care it receives, and the conditions in which it operates (e.g. extreme heat may greatly reduce the life of the battery).  The figure of 1,000 charging cycles is often cited by manufacturers for this type of battery.

Our Scamp’s lead acid battery had served us adequately, although its limitations were apparent since day one.  First, lead acid batteries should not be discharged more than 50% (about 12.0V) or irreversible damage may occur.  So, effectively, only half of the lead acid battery’s capacity can be used (so the 100ah battery is equivalent to about 50ah)!  We needed to closely monitor the Scamp battery when using multiple appliances at night to make sure the voltage didn’t drop below 12.0 volts for too long. We spend a lot of time boondocking (without electric hookups) and the battery ran down fairly quickly (within two to three days of use running our LED lights, fan, water pump, shower pump, furnace, etc.).  Our 100 watt solar panels, though, had saved us on many occasions when hookups weren’t available by allowing us to charge the battery during the day in good weather.  The Scamp’s lead acid battery also had to be maintained periodically by filling it with distilled water (when levels were low).  Fortunately, our friend Phil helped us test and maintain the battery using distilled water and a kit to test electrolytes.

Our Scamp’s 2019 lead acid battery began to show its age this year.  At about four years old, it was nearing the end of the average lifespan for this type of battery.  We noticed that the full charge didn’t seem to last quite as long.  Instead of trying to milk it for a few more years, we decided it was time for a change.  We planned the switch to a lithium battery ahead of a big trip to the coastal California redwoods – knowing there would be long periods without electric hookups (under densely shaded heavy foliage in the forest which would limit solar charging).  Not wanting to deal with lead acid batteries any longer (or battery issues on our trip), I extensively researched lithium batteries.  The first thing I discovered is that modern RV lithium battery chemistry, LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate), is considered very safe (said to be the safest of the lithium battery types) and unlikely to catch fire (very different than other types).  They have a very low risk of overheating and catching fire due to their more stable cathode material and lower operating temperatures.  Additional benefits over lead acid batteries include increased capacity (about double lead acid batteries), faster charging (4 x faster), reduced weight (about ½ the weight), and longer lifetime (10 years or more — 2 to 3 times lead acid battery average lifespan).  Additionally, high quality LiFePO4 batteries have a built in BMS (battery management system) that protects the battery from overcharge, over-discharge, and short circuits.  Some even have a temperature controller to shut down charging when temperatures dip below freezing (which can damage LiFePO4 batteries).  After learning about these additional benefits in lithium battery chemistry, I was really motived to keep researching.

Trailer Converter & Wiring Compatibility
Before purchasing a lithium battery, I wanted to verify that I would be able to charge it safely with the Scamp’s Progressive Dynamics 45 amp 9245C converter (converts AC to DC 12V when hooked up to an AC outlet to run the Scamp 12V appliances, like lighting, and charging the Scamp battery) running through the trailer’s existing wiring (I was told by Scamp they used 12-gauge wire on 2020 models).  LiFePO4 lithium batteries generally require a charging voltage between 14.4 – 14.6V (higher than lead acid batteries).  So, the converter needs to be able to output this voltage for sufficient charging.  SOK Battery recommends 20 – 40 amps charging current (i.e. charging a 100ah battery at 20 amps will take it from 0 to 100% in five hours – very fast). However, I wasn’t too concerned about getting this many amps to the battery to charge it quickly because we generally stay at the campground at least 24 hours – so, slower charging would be acceptable.  So, the main questions I had were if the 12-gauge wire (rated for 20 amps — and there is a 20 amp fuse on the positive converter connection at the Scamp battery) would handle the current output by the 45 amp converter going to the battery (wouldn’t blow the 20 amp fuse at the battery) and if the converter could output a minimum of 14.4V.

I called Progressive Dynamics and spoke to a tech.  He told me that the PD9245C converter that our Scamp 13’ came with can charge lithium batteries with the optional pendant (sold separately here).  It’s a little box that plugs into the converter (less than $15 at the time I purchased) and has a button which allows the converter to output 14.4 volts in Boost mode (for four hours at a time when its button is pushed).  Otherwise, the converter won’t get up to the required minimum voltage (14.4V) to fully charge lithium batteries.  He also said that whatever current isn’t used in the trailer will be sent to the battery (potentially up to almost 45 amps!).  So, he strongly recommended changing the existing wiring going from the converter to the fuse box to the battery (both positive and negative wires) to 6-gauge wire.  He said that the 20 amp fuse at the battery would likely blow often if this wasn’t done.  Because our Scamp 13’ has a bathroom and the wires run behind it, the job would involve running the wire up to the refrigerator area in the front of the Scamp and then cutting a hole in the floor and running it under the front part of the trailer up to the battery.  I took a look under the bench seat where the converter is mounted and followed the wiring to the fuse box next to it (and removed the fuse box from the wall to look closely at the wiring) and then onto the side of the trailer by opening the side refrigerator panel.  From there, the wiring goes into the wall behind the bathroom and comes out the front of the Scamp through the front closet floor.  This didn’t seem like too difficult a job, so I ordered the copper 6-gauge wires, battery lugs, brackets, etc. ($271 altogether on Amazon at the time of my order).  Fortunately, all of the supplies I ordered were returnable, because, as you will read below, I ended up not using them!

Choosing A Brand
Once convinced our next Scamp battery would be a LifePo4 lithium battery, I shopped brands (and there are a ton of choices) and watched YouTube videos of experts taking apart these batteries to conduct extensive analysis on them to help distinguish between the high quality from the numerous poor quality batteries.  Here’s one such video that reviews a variety of Chinese brands.  After a couple of weeks of this type of research, I was able to identify some of the highest quality US and Chinese brands of LiFePO4 batteries.  I also called battery distributors carrying the best US and Chinese brands and asked about build quality and return rates between the batteries.  What I learned was that one of the leading Chinese made batteries, SOK Battery, is comparable in quality and return rates to one of the leading US brands but costing about half the price.  After doing this research, I purchased a 100ah SOK marine battery which has a battery management system (BMS, including low temperature charging shut-off) and Bluetooth.  This battery fits perfectly within the Group 27 plastic battery box that came with our Scamp 13’and sits outside at the front of the trailer near the hitch.  Many of the batteries I researched (including other SOK batteries) were too big to fit inside our existing battery box.  I ordered a marine battery version (water tight enclosure) because, although the battery goes inside a plastic battery box, the battery/battery box sits outside on the trailer’s tongue and is exposed to the elements.

I ordered the SOK 100ah marine battery with BMS and Bluetooth directly from the manufacturer’s website here, priced at $500 (free shipping) at the time of this article (in comparison, a decent new sealed 100ah AGM battery – an advance type of lead acid battery — cost between $200 and $300).  The SOK battery comes with a 7-year manufacturer warranty.  SOK ships to US customers from their US warehouse and I received the battery, which was well packaged in protective Styrofoam, in about five days.  The SOK marine battery is super clean looking in a nicely sealed black plastic case.  I weighed both the old lead acid battery (48 lbs.) and the new SOK battery (24 lbs.) and was pleased how easy it is to lift the new SOK battery.

Installation and Configuration
The SOK battery fits perfectly into the Scamp’s existing plastic Group 27 battery box, taking up about the same amount of space as the old lead acid battery.  It was easy attaching all the battery connectors from the Scamp’s various systems (e.g. converter, brake, electric jack, etc.) to the SOK battery terminals because I was careful to label each wire (and indicate which was positive and negative) before removing the wires from the old battery.  I downloaded the ABC-BMS app to my Android phone, opened it, and it did not connect to the SOK battery.  I guessed the battery was in a deep sleep after being shipped from China, so I plugged the Scamp into the AC wall outlet and the app quickly connected.  Note:  the battery also goes to sleep every six hours without use.  Simply turn on the shower floor water pump or other appliance that has significant current draw and the battery will wake up and the app will then connect.  Another way to wake up the battery is to plug in the trailer to shore power (and perhaps press the button on the Wizard pendant to get the voltage up over 14v).

I initially liked the app because it not only shows State of Charge (SOC) of the battery in percentage but also a lot of other really useful data.  One extremely helpful piece of information on the app is the current flow (amp) into and out of the battery.  I relied on this extensively when testing the new lithium SOK battery and it allowed me to forgo rewiring the Scamp because I saw that the current flow to the battery when charging was never over 20 amps (the rating for the circuit breaker at the battery).  Eventually, though, I grew tired of having to wake up the battery to get the app to work and I also found the SOC value to become inaccurate when the Scamp was sitting for long periods in the garage.  The voltage would continue to drop over a couple of weeks, but the SOK app would still show 100% SOC.  The app fails to register small parasitic loads from appliances when calculating the SOC (which quietly drain the battery over time just by being plugged in, even when all accessories are off).  I contacted SOK and they advised that an external shunt would be much more accurate than the internal BMS for measuring SOC.  In turn, I purchased a Victron SmartShunt which is extremely accurate and works whether or not the battery is sleeping.  The external smart shunt, which sits between the lithium battery negative terminal and all negative loads, very accurately calculates SOC by effectively measuring all the current going out of the battery.  The Victron SmartShunt app shows that my Scamp has a drain of about .14 A when sitting in storage in the garage.  Here’s a video I made showing much more detail on how the Victron SmartShunt is installed and set up.

Victron calibration guide:  click here.

Testing New Battery
The first thing I did after installing the new SOK battery was plug in the Scamp to the AC wall outlet to see if I would need to change out the trailer’s existing 12 gauge wire.  The battery arrived at 60% SOC and I intended to charge it to 100% while carefully monitoring the amps received at the battery using the SOK app (after putting the converter into 14.4V Boost mode, by pressing the button on the pendant).  Without any electric appliances running in the Scamp, the SOK app showed 9 to 10 amps going into the battery from the converter (so nothing like the high number of amps the Progressive Dynamics tech warned about).  At 10 amps, the 100ah battery charges at about 10% per hour and would take 10 hours at this current to go from 0 to 100% charge.  Since the SOK battery was already at 60% SOC, it only took about 4 hours to charge to 100%.  During the charging process, I periodically felt the + and – converter wires at the battery.  They remained cool the entire time, the 20 amp fuse never blew, and the charging current never exceeded 10 amps (far below the 20amp rating of the existing 12 gauge wire on the Scamp).  I also tested the current from the 7-pin connector plugged into our Volvo XC40 tow vehicle when the SOK battery was at 82% SOC.  With the ignition off, the app showed no power coming or going from the SOK battery.  With the car running, the app showed the SOK battery receiving 4 amps from the 7 pin connector.

Because lithium batteries take more current and charge faster when they are at a lower state of charge (Ohm’s law:  Current (amps) = Voltage [voltage charging – voltage battery] / Resistance), I decided to run some additional experiments with the SOK battery at a much lower SOC.  I used the three way refrigerator in 12 volt mode to deplete the battery (at 82%) down to 20% SOC (it took about 6 hours to do this since the 12V refrigerator uses around 10 amps).  As expected, the charging current rates when the SOK battery was at 20% SOC were significantly higher than previous tests at 82% SOC.  But, were they high enough to heat up the wiring and blow the converter wiring’s 20 amp fuse at the battery terminal?  Fortunately, they were not.  With the Volvo XC40 plugged into the Scamp via the 7-pin connector, the SOK battery received between 8 – 10 amps when the car was running (no amps when the car was off) compared to only 4 amps previously when the SOK battery was at 82% SOC.  When the Scamp was plugged into the AC outlet, the SOK battery received between 14-16 amps.  As the SOK battery charged, the current rate fell back down to around 10 amps (at 45% SOC).  So, it seems the battery follows Ohm’s law and gets noticeably hungrier and draws in higher current when charging at very low state of charge (less than 30%).  But, even so, the wires remained cool the entire time, and the 20 amp fuse never blew (keeping below the 20amp rating of the existing 12-gauge wire on the Scamp 13’).

Charging Scenarios
There are at least four ways to keep a lithium battery charged when travelling.

  1. Electrical Hookup
  2. Solar Panels (optional)
  3. 7-pin car charging
  4. DC-DC Car Charging (optional)

Each of these methods is discussed below.

Real World Testing –20 Day California Coastal Redwoods – Oregon Adventure
As testing predicted, our Scamp’s existing 12-gauge wiring did work well for charging with the converter when staying at campsites with an electrical hookup and also with the 7-pin connector while driving.  But, a big question was whether the 100ah SOK battery would be sufficiently charged for our style of camping.  In other words, would the mix of our camping between campgrounds with and without electrical hookups (with solar panels when there was sunshine) and driving distances (charging with the 7 pin connector and running our 12 volt refrigerator while driving) be sufficient to keep our 100ah SOK battery charged on long trips?  Since we often spend long periods of time (up to a week) boondocking (no electric hookup – at one or multiple locations) and only periodically stay at campgrounds with electrical hookups, considering all forms of charging seemed like a good idea.  Fortunately, our recent twenty day trip up the California coast into the redwoods and beyond into Oregon offered a mix of different types of camping, providing perfect testing conditions for our lithium battery and insight into the best ways to keep it charged for our travelling style.

We travelled with the Scamp’s 12V refrigerator running to test the actual draw on the SOK battery while driving since the goal is to keep refrigerated food cold without having to run propane (we don’t want to take the safety risk of running the refrigerator from propane while driving and also the inconvenience of having to turn the propane off before entering gas stations).  We found that running the refrigerator while driving consistently depleted the SOK battery at about 10% of charge capacity per hour.  So, for example, when we left a campground with our SOK battery at 100% charge and drove four hours we would arrive with our battery at 60% SOC.  Fortunately, we had no issues on this trip because we used our solar panels to charge up at most campsites after arriving.  However, we decided to add a DC-DC car charger (see below) after this trip so we can run the refrigerator and charge our SOK battery at the same time while driving.

1.  Electrical hookup
Using shore power (AC outlet) is the simplest way to charge a lithium battery.  When the trailer is plugged into an AC electrical hookup, the trailer’s converter will provide around 14.4 volts power to charge the battery (as discussed previously, our converter required an add on “wizard” pendant to increase the voltage to 14.4 volts which is required for charging lithium batteries).  Standard (“non-lithium”) converters will not be capable of fully charging a lithium battery, so it’s important to research what converter is in your trailer and either replace it or upgrade it (like we did) if necessary so that it is capable of charging the new lithium battery.  Our 100ah SOK lithium battery charges at about 10% per hour when plugged into an AC outlet (mostly while in “boost mode”, which is when the pendant button is pushed on the “wizard” and the voltage is increased to 14.4 volts).  The SOK battery charged well at campgrounds with hookups.  We found our battery fully charged every morning on our recent trip.

2.  Solar Panels
We have a 100 watt solar briefcase which we had been using successfully to charge our old lead acid battery at campgrounds without hookups.  The panels are capable of supplying up to 8 amps (100 watts/12 volts, from the formula amps x volts = watts) of power.  So, on a sunny day, with eight hours of good sun, the panels could possibly provide the 100ah SOK battery up to 64ah of capacity (8 amps x 8 hours) or 64% of the total battery capacity!  Because we usually have good weather when camping (i.e. good solar charging conditions) and estimate our daily battery use at around 12Ah or less, the solar panel solution seemed like it would work great for the lithium battery.  The only change we made was replacing the existing inexpensive solar charge controller to one that has a LiFePO4 setting.  The solar charge controller sits between the solar panels and the battery and regulates the charge states so the battery is safely and properly charged.

We opted to purchase a high end charge controller since we are charging an expensive LiFePO4 battery with double the useable capacity (and ½ the weight) as our old lead acid battery.  This Victron Energy smart controller features MPPT technology (as opposed to the PWM technology that basic controllers have) with a long five year warranty.  Without getting into a lot of detail, MPPT is widely recognized as more efficient (up to 30% more efficient) than PWM technology, which generally means higher amps collected from the panels and sent to the battery (faster battery charging times).  The downside of MPPT controllers is that they are generally much more expensive and complex than PWM controllers.  The PWM controller we used for our Scamp’s original lead acid battery was only $16 on Amazon and seemed to do a good job charging it (although not compatible with LiFePO4 batteries).  However, because we wanted to make sure the much more expensive SOK battery is safely and efficiently charged, we decided to spend more ($112 at the time of this article) on the Victron smart controller which is compatible with LiFePO4 batteries.  Having the extra charging efficiency is helpful because there is more battery capacity to replenish with a lithium battery compared to a lead acid battery.  This is because a comparable lead acid battery should only be allowed to run down to about 50% capacity or 12 volts whereas a 100ah lithium battery can be safely discharged to a much lower SOC — some manufacturers say safely to 0%, others 10-20%.

The Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 75V 15 amp 12/24 volt solar charge controller with Bluetooth arrived quickly after ordering from Amazon and was easy to install.  I removed the old controller (which I had attached to the back of the solar panels with Scotch extreme fastener tape), screwed down both the positive and negative wires from the panels and the battery leads into the new Victron controller (being careful to make sure the red positive wires and black negative wires went into their respective slots), and used extreme fastener tape to secure the controller to the back of the panels.  Fortunately, the thickness of the new Victron controller was thin enough to allow the panels to fully fold up into a briefcase and lock.  To program, I opened up the panels inside my house and exposed them to some outdoor light to power the controller (the panels were not connected to a battery).  I used my mobile phone’s reader app to scan the QR code on the controller, which opened up the Victron app page on the Google Play store to download.  Downloading the Victron app was fairly quick and it required a couple of updates after downloading.  The only thing I adjusted in the settings was for the battery type, LiFePO4, which sets the parameters for this type of lithium battery.  After the quick setup, I took the panels outside and connected them to the Scamp.  All the information shown on the Victron app is amazing.  The app shows voltage generated by the panels and the regulated voltage and current going into the battery.  There are also graphs that can be generated showing a variety of different parameters.  It was interesting comparing the Victron data against the SOK battery data in real time, which, it turns out, were very similar.  For example, the current and voltage coming from the panels as displayed on the Victron app was very similar to the current and voltage going into the battery shown on the SOK app.

The solar panels coupled with the Victron controller did a great job recharging our SOK 100ah lithium battery on our recent trip.  We often arrived at campgrounds without hookups with our lithium battery depleted to between 60% and 80% SOC as a result of running the 12v refrigerator.  In most cases, placing the solar panels out in the sun resulted into a full charge to our SOK battery in less than 6 hours.  Under partly cloudy to sunny skies, the panels usually output between 6 to 7 amps per hour to the SOK battery.  The panels didn’t produce much if any electricity at all under heavy cloudy skies or no sun conditions (like we experienced in the dense redwoods forests).  In these cases, the DC-DC charging scenario of charging comes into relevance (see below).

 3.  7-pin car charging
Connecting the travel trailer to the tow vehicle with the 7-pin connector not only allows the trailer’s tail lights to mimic the tow vehicle’s signal lights (e.g. turn signals, brake lights) and control the electronic brakes, power can also pass through it between the tow vehicle and trailer.  On our twenty day trip to the California redwoods and Oregon, the power flow was usually around 4 amps from the tow vehicle into the Scamp lithium battery.  However, on some occasions, the flow was actually negative, with power going from the Scamp battery back to the tow vehicle’s battery.  Current usually flows from high voltage to low voltage (known as “potential”), so when the travel trailer battery has a higher charge than the tow vehicle, current may transfer from the trailer battery to the tow vehicle battery.   Since we like running our 12V refrigerator while driving, we found that even with the 7-pin connector providing some power, our new SOK lithium battery usually loses about 6 to 10 amps of capacity per hour while driving.  So, after a typical four hour drive with our 12v refrigerator running, our SOK lithium battery state of charge (SOC) would often be around 60% (when starting at 100% SOC).  The bottom line is that the 7-pin connector cannot be relied on to charge the trailer battery while driving as it puts out very little current for this purpose.

4.  DC-DC Car Charging, “The Game Changer”
We chose to install a DC-DC car charger so we could drive with our 12 volt refrigerator running without depleting our 100ah SOK lithium battery.  It allows the tow vehicle (assuming the tow vehicle’s alternator can output enough amps) to charge the trailer battery at a very fast rate.  Heavy gage cable (6 gage cable in this case) is run from the tow vehicle battery (hidden under the cars body panels) to Anderson SB50 quick connectors at the back of the tow vehicle.  The DC-DC charger is installed next to the travel trailer battery.  The DC-DC charger takes power generated by the tow vehicle’s alternator and regulates the voltage up to a certain amount (just over 40 amps in this case).

Without the DC-DC car charger, our lithium battery generally is depleted by about 10 amps or 10% of its charge per hour when driving with our 12 volt refrigerator running (as mentioned above).  In many cases, we can make up this shortfall in capacity by using our solar panels at the new campground.  However, in some circumstances (like we experienced in the dense foliage of the redwoods on our last trip) arriving with 100% SOC is a better plan (especially if staying for a long period of time).  Bad weather (e.g. windy, rainy, heavy clouds, etc.) or being in a sketchy environment (where risk of solar panel theft might be high) may also throw a wrench in charging plans, sidelining the use of solar panels.  So, after reviewing experiences from our recent twenty day trip we decided integrating a DC-DC car charger would be desirable for how we travel.  The DC-DC car charger gives us peace of mind, ensuring that our lithium battery will be fully charged when we arrive at the campground (even when running our 12V refrigerator).

We did a lot of research and purchased a RedArc 40amp DC-DC car charger (RedArc BCDC1240D) with the RedArc 60A Fuse Kit (FK60).  RedArc is one of the highest regarded manufacturers of these chargers and makes some very powerful ones (like 40 amp and 50 amp versions).  A 50 amp DC-DC car charger can charge a 100ah battery in about two hours of driving!  This brand is one of the most expensive (and based on our experience worth it!), but there are also other brands (such as this Renogy 40 amp DC-DC charger) which may do a good job.   We chose a local company, Basil’s Garage, to install the charger as it requires removing body panels within the tow vehicle and installing heavy gage wiring from the engine compartment within underbody panel compartments to the back of the tow vehicle (installation was about $500 and took about 3 hours).  The techs at Basil’s Garage are excellent and really know their trade.  Additionally, a cable is needed to the tow vehicle’s fuse box to keep the DC-DC charger from stopping when the smart alternator drops the voltage to save power.  After the installation, the SOK app showed 42 amps going into the battery (vs. about 4 amps from the 7-pin connector when the DC-DC connector was disconnected).  And, after turning on the 12V refrigerator, the SOK app showed 32 amps still going into the SOK battery with the tow vehicle running!   We put our new DC-DC car charger to the test with a trip up the coast to several beach campgrounds (see trip report here).  Indeed, the DC-DC charger worked wonderfully during our trip supplying our Scamp’s lithium battery up to 32 amps of power when needed while powering our 12 volt refrigerator at the same time.  The system worked so well that we didn’t even need to use our solar panels (we arrived at each campground with cold refrigerated food and our lithium battery SOC at 100%)!  We consider DC-DC charging a real “game changer”.

Final Thoughts
Now that the price of high quality LiFeP04 batteries for travel trailers has come down to more reasonable levels, it seems like a no brainer to swap out a trailer’s lead acid battery for a LiFePO4 lithium battery.  For just two to three hundred dollars more, one can buy a lithium battery that compared to a lead acid battery is ½ the weight, gives 2x the capacity, doesn’t off gas hydrogen, doesn’t require maintenance, lasts 10 years or more (2 to 3 times lead acid battery average lifespans) and charges much faster.  Additionally, the LiFeP04 battery in a travel trailer sitting in storage can sit a lot longer without getting depleted by parasitic loads from appliances due to higher useable capacity.  This can mean fewer trips to the storage facility to charge the battery.  Lastly, there are a lot of great optional methods (e.g. AC hookup, solar panels, and DC-DC charger) available to quickly charge up a travel trailers LiFePO4 battery when travelling.  And, because LiFePO4 batteries charge much faster, there’s a better chance of having battery capacity when it is needed!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to Repair A Scamp Toilet (Dometic 711-M28)

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How to Repair A Scamp Toilet (Dometic 711-M28)

IMPORTANT — make sure to order the correct flush ball / spring cartridge / shaft kit for your toilet. I was originally given incorrect information on the type of kit, and the black faced cartridge in this video should not have been used for my Dometic 711-M28. I was told by Dometic a toilet with a metal lever has to use a white faced spring cartridge and toilets with all plastic pedals use a black faced spring cartridge. The spring cartridge cams are placed in different locations depending on color which will affect rotation. Additionally, the plastic shaft has been switched to brass for better wear. Here’s the kit I switched to after this video.  This is an essential tool which makes the job much easier.

When placing the seals on the toilet, make sure the cutouts on both seals are stacked on top of each other (the lower seal saying “This Side Up” and both stacked seals are aligned with the cutout on the toilet base). Also, the screw on the metal clamp band should be at the very back of the toilet (otherwise, there is a risk of seepage).

What happened to our toilet?
Our 2020 Scamp 13’s toilet has worked really well until very recently.  Two days into the start of a twenty day trip up the California coast into Oregon, the flush ball stuck on our Scamp’s toilet.  The white plastic ball is the main barrier between the toilet bowl and the black tank which sits below (preventing odors from coming into the bathroom).  The flush ball opens when the flush pedal is depressed (which also causes water to be released into the bowl simultaneously).  In the past, lubricating the seals around the ball with silicone has worked well to get it moving again after being stuck.  This time though, the ball was really stuck and I put a rubber glove on and forced it open.  Unfortunately, this resulted in the ball becoming completely inoperable.  We made it through the rest of our trip by plugging the hole at the base of the ceramic toilet bowl with a rubber toilet bowl plunger (saving us from having to cancel the trip).  This solution worked really well, but was only temporary.

What Else Can Go Wrong?
According to the Dometic parts list, there are 23 parts to the 711-M28 model toilet.  So, there are a lot of possible points of failure.  However, the usual culprits of toilet problems are a cracked water valve (results in leaking toilet), broken spring cartridge and/or rotor shaft (results in flush ball not opening/closing), and a dirty or damaged flush ball and/or bowl seals (results in flush ball not opening/closing, water not holding in bowl).  Dometic has a handy trouble shooting guide on page 6 of its handbook.

How can these issues be repaired?
Fortunately, it’s not impossible to trouble shoot and take apart the mechanisms of this toilet.  And, parts can be ordered online.  I’ve created a step by step video showing the disassembly of the toilet.  Often, just the first few steps will be necessary if one just wants to clean or replace the seals (flush ball seal and bowl seal) between the toilet and the base (e.g. for when the toilet bowl stops holding water or the flush ball becomes stuck).  To repair other parts though, the flush pedal cover and mounting screws may need to be removed to provide access to the water valve, spring cartridge, rotor shaft, and flush ball.  Make sure to dump and flush the Blank tank and turn off the water supply when working with the toilet.  Note:  be careful not to overtighten metal clamp (just tighten until snug and toilet bowl is secure and stable).  If the clamp is too tight, the flush ball may be compressed too much against the seals and the flush ball may get stuck, water may leak out of the bowl and/or the plastic half clamps may crack.

How to diagnose what’s wrong?
In addition to reviewing Dometic’s trouble shooting guide, the company has great customer service and will be happy to assist (800-321-9886).  Our issue was a little strange (inverted flush ball) and we were referred to a local tech center.  The guy who answered the phone was extremely helpful and answered all my questions.  In the end, no one really could explain how our flush ball became inverted.  The advice was to get the Flush Ball & Shaft Kit and replace the flush ball, rotor shaft, and spring cartridge.  After this repair (as documented in my video) everything worked great!

How to prevent toilet issues?
First, always keep water in the toilet bowl when travelling (except when driving) to prevent odors from coming up from the black tank and also to keep the seals between the toilet and its base from drying out.  Additionally, since one of the most common issues is the toilet flush ball getting stuck and/or the toilet bowl not holding water (e.g. water drains quickly into the black tank even though the flush ball is closed), a good preventive solution is to use plumbers grease and toilet seal lubricant regularly between trips to keep the seals from drying out and the flush ball moving smoothly.  One of the first signs of trouble is if the toilet bowl can’t hold water.  As noted above, water is important in the bowl because it keeps black tank odors from escaping.  Additionally, water draining from the bowl when the flush ball is closed can indicate dry or dirty seals or even damaged seals.  Before taking the toilet bowl off its base though, try using plumber’s grease and toilet seal lubricant (as shown at the end of my ten minute video).  If that doesn’t work and the toilet still can’t hold water, then remove the toilet from its base and try cleaning both seals (or replacing the seals if they appear damaged).  The company says the seals can last 15-25+ years, so it’s likely the seals will just need a good cleaning with soap and water and a toothbrush.  It is recommended to occasionally remove the seals between the base and the bowl when not holding water.  Soak them in warm water with a little dish soap to loosen any calcium scales, iron deposits or dirt build-up.  Let dry, then spray very lightly on both sides with silicone.  Note:  put seals back in same position with notch in the 4 o’clock position and the seal that says “This Side Up” under the black seal.  Also, make sure plastic half clamps come together at front of toilet bowl (they will have a gap at the back) and make sure the metal band screw is at the very back of the toilet (at the gap of the plastic half clamps).

Helpful items:

Toilet Seal Lubricant
Thetford RV Toilet Seal Lube & Conditioner

Plumbers Grease
Slik Seal Plumbers Grease

Dometic 711-M28 Toilet Parts:
Flush Ball & Shaft Kit:  Part #385318162
Genuine Dometic

Dometic Seal Kit:  Part#385311462
Genuine Dometic
Generic Version

Water Valve Kit:  Part#385314349
Genuine Dometic
Generic Version

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to Replace a 7-Way Flat Pin Socket Connector on Your Tow Vehicle

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How to Replace a 7-Way Flat Pin Socket Connector on Your Tow Vehicle

On our last trip, the plastic flap covering our tow vehicle’s 7-way hitch socket connector broke.  This doesn’t seem like a big deal, but without the flap, the trailer cable won’t stay in the socket since it relies on the flap’s flange to keep it in place while driving.  While we were descending a steep hill on our final leg home, our 2020 Volvo XC40’s brakes began to pump.  We had never heard this noise before, and then at about the same time an orange warning light lit up indicating a failure with the trailer cable connection.  We pulled over and found that our Scamp 13’s cable had pulled out.  This would explain the noise of the Volvo’s brakes working hard, since our Scamp’s brakes were disconnected.  The trailer cable is essential for the operation of the trailer’s brake and safety light system,  powering the trailer’s turn signal lights, brake lights, hazard lights, running lights, and also activating the trailer’s brakes. When the connector broke, all of these critical features no longer worked.  Fortunately, we had some zip ties which we used for a temporary fix to get us home.

I called Volvo when we returned home and was told that the connector is molded into the entire Volvo wiring harness and they don’t sell just a replacement flap.  They said the only way to fix it with Volvo parts is to replace the entire wiring harness, and the harness cost would be $167 plus labor!  This seemed to be a very high cost for just a broken plastic flap replacement.  Our 2020 Volvo XC40 has been a reliable workhorse for us, and I wanted to find a simple inexpensive solution to fix the broken flap.  Since we sometimes do off road boondocking, we wouldn’t want to have to replace the entire wiring harness any time the little plastic flap breaks.  Fortunately, I was able to find another solution at a fraction of the cost.  This inexpensive 7-way socket and mini harness currently sells for around $17 on Amazon.  I was easily able to replace the broken Volvo 7-way socket connector with this new connector by joining this new mini harness to the existing Volvo wiring harness.

This new 7-way flat pin socket connector should work with most tow vehicles as long as the wiring colors/pin locations are the same as the existing vehicle’s wiring harness colors/pin locations.  To make sure everything works well, the first thing to do is test the continuity of each of the new connector’s 7 wires (with a continuity tester) to verify that the wiring and pin locations are identical by color to the tow vehicle wiring.  If each of the wire colors is continuous with the same pin locations on the new connectors as the tow vehicle’s 7-way socket connector, everything should work great.   I noticed on our Volvo, the center pin wire on the Volvo wiring harness is purple, but the center pin wire on the new connector harness is red.  So, I just had to connect the purple wire to the red wire so the Volvo continues to send the correct signal to the center pin of the new 7-way socket connector.  All the other wire colors/pin locations on our Volvo’s old connector did correspond to the new connectors’ wire colors/pin locations.

Once confirming wire colors and pin locations are matched, I verified that our Scamp cable plugs securely into the new 7-way socket connector.  I then clipped the wires from the existing Volvo 7-way socket connector, unbolted it and removed it from its mount.   Once removed, I also verified its wire colors and pin locations with a continuity tester.  I then attached the new 7-way socket and mini harness to the Volvo’s existing wiring harness, making sure to pull the new mini harness through the mounting hole before making the connections.  I stripped each wire and then used the provided preinstalled butt connectors to join each of the wires (by color, except for the purple/red combination).  For the white wire, I used a WAGO connector to connect the two white wires since the white wire on the original harness is already grounded (I just clipped the circular grounding connector from the white wire on the new mini harness and joined it to the white wire on the Volvo wiring harness).  After the wires were all connected, I mounted the new connector with the existing bolts and tucked the wiring harness up behind the bumper (and used Gorilla tape to help keep it in place).

To test the system, I connected the Scamp’s trailer cable to the tow vehicle and ran the Volvo’s automated trailer lights check.  I observed all lights working properly.  The key to doing this installation successfully is to make sure to correctly match each of the wires to the proper flat pin locations.

Project Supplies and Tools:

  1. Anto 7 Way Trailer Plug: https://amzn.to/3xXw11z
  2. WAGO 221 Connectors: https://amzn.to/3Nn2Hr8
  3. Wire stripper:   https://amzn.to/3M6CyME
  4. Continuity Test: https://amzn.to/39T82J7
  5. Gorilla Tape:  https://amzn.to/3Nh6y9a

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Building an Interior Closet Shelf for a Small Travel Trailer

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Building an Interior Closet Shelf for a Small Travel Trailer

Our 2020 Scamp 13’ is loaded with more things than most people can believe – including a full size bed, kitchen dinette, kitchen (with two-burner gas stove, sink and refrigerator), furnace, bathroom (including shower), HD TV, and storage cabinets.  However, being only 10 feet long (3’ is the hitch length), there isn’t a lot of interior storage space in our Scamp.  I like to keep my laptop inside the Scamp because I load movies onto it before each trip (see How To Watch Movies in the Wild) which we often watch at night.  I used to place the laptop on the kitchen floor underneath the kitchen table, but wanted to find a more secure and out of the way storage location.  When looking for possible storage areas in such a small space, one has to keep an open mind and keen eye to identify any space which isn’t being used.  I found one such space in the main clothes closet just above the clothes hanger.  The unused empty space seemed perfect to suspend a small shelf which could be used to store a laptop as well as a few other small items.  Having just completed my AC window project, I had some leftover ½” thick plywood.  I took some measurements, and using my jigsaw and belt sander it was a quick and easy job to create the shelf.

The first thing I did was measure the space to calculate the maximum shelf measurements which would fit.  I calculated that a shelf 14” wide in front, 12” deep (10” on the shorter curved side), and with 5” high walls would accommodate my laptop and maximize the storage space in this area.  Since the Scamp main closet curves at the back, I had to cut a corner in the rear shelf tray (reducing the rear right side tray by 2” to 10” deep).  I thought I might need a wall piece for the back corner, but it was unnecessary as the tray rests against the back wall (which acts as a shelf wall).  The back wall piece came out to 9” long x 5” high.  After all the pieces were cut, I drilled pilot holes and used glue and wood screws to join all the pieces.  Lastly, I cut 4 small pieces of plywood and used them as mounts.  These mounts are glued and screwed into the top of the shelf side walls (see video).

Once the shelf is fully built, it’s just a matter of having an assistant hold it in place inside the cabinet.  After positioning in the right area, use screws to attach the mounts to the wood ceiling.  Once I secured the shelf, I decided to cut some holes on the left side wall so, if necessary, I could insert a screwdriver through the shelf to tighten the collars on the hot/cold PEX lines (in case there was a drip).  The only thing left is to create a front cover (if desired).  I wanted the ability to be able to quickly see inside the shelf but needed a front cover so my laptop wouldn’t fly out while driving, so I opted to use a clear Lexan (high strength plastic) polycarbonate piece (which I attached to the cabinet using rare earth magnets hot glued to both the Lexan and plywood) (5” high x 15” wide).

I have used this shelf on several trips already and it has performed very well.  The rare earth magnets have always held securely during travel.  Hinges might be considered to avoid having to pull the Lexan off the front and setting it aside while putting things in and out of the shelf.  Though, I’ve found the magnet solution to work really well and don’t mind setting aside the front piece while accessing the gear inside the shelf.  So, if you have any small items in your small travel trailer that you need a home for, consider shelving them!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How to Stop Your MaxxFan From Beeping & Shutting Down When Using Solar Power

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How to Stop Your MaxxFan From Beeping & Shutting Down When Using Solar Power

Our 2020 Scamp 13’ was delivered from the Scamp factory with a Maxxair MaxxFan, an incredible fan which can either blow or suck air into the trailer (depending on the setting).  Since we don’t have air conditioning in our camper and use it off grid quite a bit, we really depend on this fan to keep us cool during warm weather (as well as blowing out smoke when cooking and also clearing humidity from the trailer when showering and sleeping to prevent detector alarms).

We soon discovered that our MaxxFan doesn’t like voltage variations beyond 12 volts.  When boondocking (without shore power), we usually use our solar panel briefcase to provide power to our Scamp 13’.  Voltage in our trailer can vary quite a bit when on solar power and is usually higher than 12V, sometimes reaching just over 15 volts (based on our internal voltmeter).  It’s common for our MaxxFan to complain (beep and stop) when we are running solar.  It especially doesn’t like it when our Scamp 13’ is running on solar and simultaneously running another appliance (like a water pump to provide water pressure to our sink when boondocking).  It generally will beep and stop in this situation.  We’ve learned that we can often keep it running as long as we don’t exceed the 30% speed setting.  On one occasion, our fan stopped altogether and wouldn’t restart.  To get it to run again, we had to pull the fuse (fuse labeled “rear of trailer”) to reset the fan.  Ughh!

It was warm on our recent trip to Big Bear Lake and we really wanted to use our fan at a high speed setting, but it wouldn’t cooperate.  Our MaxxFan just kept turning off when turned up higher than 30%.  With our solar panels soaking up the bright mountain sunlight at Big Bear, the voltage coming into the trailer reached 15.6 volts.  At this point, we needed a better solution.  Upon doing considerable research, we found that, indeed, voltage intolerance is a known problem for MaxxFans.  When the voltage is too low or too high the fan will often beep and stop.  It seems this fan has “Goldilocks Syndrome” as the voltage has to be “just right”.  A call to MaxxAir, maker of the MaxxFan, confirmed that there have been considerable issues with voltage affecting fan operation which have prompted the company to update the motherboard to accept voltages up to 15 volts.  The MaxxFan tech I spoke to said the motherboard used to have a voltage range between 10.8 volts – 13.8 volts (our model), but once more people started using solar panels and lithium batteries (leading to higher voltages within their rvs) the company came out with a new motherboard (sometime after 2020) to accept a wider voltage range (10.3 volts – 15 volts).  The tech told me that even with the new motherboard, the fan will still have problems with voltages outside the new voltage range.  Although some people have gone as far as replacing their motherboards in the hope that the more recent circuit boards will fix this issue, others have taken matters into their own hands by implementing other solutions.  The simple and inexpensive solution we implemented was to install a voltage regulator between the trailer power leads and the fan (the MaxxFan tech agreed with us that this is a good solution).  The voltage regulator we chose accepts 9V – 36V input (a much higher range than the new MaxxFan mother board accepts) and puts out a consistent 12 volts, and is rated waterproof, dust-proof, moisture-proof and shock-proof (and currently sells new on Amazon for less than $15!).  It’s also really small and fits nicely in the MaxxFan housing.  So overall, the nice thing about this solution is that it’s inexpensive and addresses both very low and high voltages.

The installation of the voltage regulator inside the MaxxFan is fairly simple and just about anyone should be able to do it in less than an hour with the right supplies and tools.  A significant point to note is that it is very important to figure out the polarities of all the wires before connecting them because some trailers (and even the MaxxFan itself) have some strange things going on with polarity.  Specifically, for example, our Scamp trailer has a positive black wire and negative white wire providing power to the fan.  Additionally, MaxxFan also wires their fan this way with the black wire being positive.  This wiring convention is contrary to what most people learn, being that black is usually negative and red is positive.

A voltmeter is a good simple way to determine polarity (set your voltmeter on DC V and use the black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the other colored wire – if the voltage shows a positive number, then the black wire is negative polarity, if it shows a negative number, then black is positive polarity).  On our installation, we determined that our Scamp 13’ black wire is actually positive and the white wire is negative. These are the wires that provide power to the fan and attach to the input side of the voltage regulator.   On our voltage regulator, the input and output polarities are clearly labeled (with black being negative and red/yellow positive).  The MaxxFan wiring polarity matches our Scamp trailer with black being positive and white negative.

Project Supplies and Tools:

  1. MaxxFan
  2. 12V DC Voltage Regulator
  3. Voltmeter
  4. Wago wire connectors
  5. Scotch Fastener Tape
  6. Gorilla Tape
  7. Braided copper wire (AWG 14)
  8. Robertson Square #2 Screwdriver or
    1. Electric screw driver which accepts ¼” bits
    2. Robertson Square #2 bits 
  9. Wire cutters
  10. Wire stripper

Here are the Project Steps I took to install the 12V voltage regulator in the MaxxFan (also, reference video).

Project Steps:

  1. SAFETY: I made sure my Scamp 13’ was parked on a flat level surface (my garage), the tongue jack was stable, and I used heavy duty wheel chocks to prevent the trailer from rolling.  I also wore safety glasses to help prevent anything from getting into my eyes while working.  I made sure there was no power to the fan while working on it (by pulling fuse).
  2. Cut power to fan by removing fuse powering fan (fan won’t turn on after fuse is removed)
  3. Take off the fan screen by rotating the holders
  4. Remove the bezel/trim using the Robertson Square #2 Driver.
  5. Remove fan with Phillips head screwdriver (including screw on black manual fan knob).
  6. Unclip zip tie on the fan holding wires together
  7. Remove a bit more plastic sheath on each of the wires coming out each side of the voltage regulator to allow for more exposed copper to plug into the Wago connectors.
  8. Apply scotch Velcro tape (two sides) to the backside of the voltage regulator.
  9. Tape the voltage regulator into one corner of the inner casing of the fan.
  10. Cut trailer power wires attached to fan and test their polarity.
  11. Attach Wago connectors to the end of the trailer power wires as well as the voltage regulator wires and fan power wires.
  12. Create wire extensions and once polarities are identified, connect the trailer power wires to the voltage regulator and the voltage regulator wires to the fan (all using Wago connectors).
  13. Plug in fuse and test fan to ensure it works.
  14. Carefully insert wiring back into fan (using zip ties and Gorilla tape to secure loose wires)
  15. Screw fan back into place using a Phillips head screwdriver.
  16. Reattach bezel/trim using Robertson Square #2 Driver (and notch out bezel if necessary)
  17. Clean fan screen.
  18. Reinstall fan screen.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Replacing the RV Door Lock on a 2020 Scamp 13’

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Replacing the RV Door Lock on a 2020 Scamp 13’

Our 2020 Scamp 13’ was delivered from the Scamp factory with the Global Link RV Entry Door Lock which is commonly used across many travel trailer brands.  This lock serves to secure the trailer’s door by providing two locking cylinders (the main cylinder and a dead bolt) within the latch.  Typically, if the door latch does its job then one doesn’t really think about it.  But, for our Scamp, this wasn’t the case.  The original lock was not only very difficult to lock and unlock, but also sometimes wouldn’t unlock (from both the outside and inside of the trailer).  On one of our first trips with our Scamp, we found ourselves locked inside the trailer subject to a lock that wouldn’t open regardless of the inside lock positions.  We ended up having to remove the lock and reinstall it (which seemed to work for a while).  Eventually, on another trip, the end of the key snapped off inside the lock when attempting to lock the deadbolt from the outside of the trailer.  Since our trailer was under the first year warranty, Scamp replaced the lock without charge.

The replacement lock we received wasn’t much better than the first one.  This second door latch was always very difficult to open and lock, and, similar to the first one, presented a lot of resistance when engaging the deadbolt.  We learned to live with it and were always very careful when turning the key when locking and unlocking the deadbolt.  The lock was always a source of concern whenever using it; we always wondered when it would fail next.  A couple of years later, the key snapped inside the lock when we were on a trip at Sequoia National Park.  Fortunately, we were able to still lock and unlock the deadbolt with just the remaining part of the key (with more than half the key still broken and stuck inside the lock) for the rest of our trip!  Not wanting to try a third example of this same lock (“fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me”), we began searching for a lock replacement as soon as we arrived home.  We originally liked the idea of a keyless entry lock as it would be great not having to deal with keys.  We looked closely at this lock as well as another one.

However, because the 2020 Scamp 13’ door is designed with a small recessed fiberglass space for the door lock, none of the keyless entry systems we could find would fit (because of their extra wide design which accommodates the numbered buttons).  So, we concentrated on finding a lock design that would match the original lock’s physical specifications so it would fit inside the hole in our Scamp’s door.

There are numerous locks available which look virtually identical to the original Global Link RV Lock which was installed on our Scamp by the factory.  However, not all locks that match our physical specifications for the lock cutout are:  highly reviewed, comprised of 100% metal (some have plastic parts), and have unique laser cut keys.  We chose this lock by Welluck because it meets the above criteria.  Additionally, it is waterproof and comes with 4 laser cut keys (cut on the inside for enhanced security).  The company states that each key set is unique (although we haven’t been able to confirm this).  Lastly, we really like that the Welluck lock is offered in white, a very unique color among locks, and matches our white 2020 Scamp 13’.

If there is appropriate cut out space in the door, installation of this lock should be very easy (see video above).  Simply remove the existing lock by unscrewing the 4 bolts on the back plate, 2 door plate bolts, pull existing back plate, and then pull the front of the lock out from the front of the door.  Installation of the new lock is the reverse of the same procedure.  First, push the front of the new lock through the hole in the door front, screw in the side metal cylinder plate, and then align the hole for the deadbolt pin and position the handle slider mechanism forward and secure the back plate with the 4 bolts.  Check to see the proper operation of the handle/deadbolt and keys after installation.  After installation, we were pleased to find that this new lock is very sturdy and much smoother in function than our previous two manufacturer supplied locks!  And, the key to our hearts with locks is a key that works without struggle or hesitation!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Using a Rivet Gun to Mount a New Scamp LED Bathroom Light

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Using a Rivet Gun to Mount a New Scamp LED Bathroom Light

Warning:  always use eyewear protection when working with tools!

Having a bright LED light in the Scamp bathroom is great.  Our 2020 Scamp 13’ came with a large oval 12V light (about 6 inches long, 3.5 inches wide) by Dream Lighting.  The light is energy efficient (4.5 Watts), very bright (300 lumen) for the Scamp’s small bathroom and lightweight (less than 3 ounces).   LED lights are especially nice because they don’t require a lot of energy to run and they usually last a very long time.  That’s why when our bathroom LED light started malfunctioning (flickering, dim, only partially lighting), it was surprising.  Fortunately, this light is very inexpensive (currently $11 on Amazon) so replacing it seemed like the easiest thing to do (vs. trying to repair).  I did pop open the cover and flipped the switch a few times to see if it could be something obvious.  However, the problem wasn’t apparent and it could easily be a circuit board issue (as all the LEDs sometimes would occasionally light, but often very faintly).

Replacing the LED light with an identical light from one purchased on Amazon seemed like it would be super straightforward.  My thoughts were that I would just unscrew the existing bad light, remove the wire nuts from the black (positive) and white (negative) wires, and attach the new wire leads from the lamp to the Scamp wiring, and then screw the new one in.  However, as is often the case with travel trailers, things aren’t always as they seem.  Once I popped open the light’s opaque white plastic cover, I noticed some strange metal tubes coming out of each end of the lamps’ mounting holes.  I called Scamp and they explained that the LED lamp is riveted to the wall.  After they explained why Scamp uses rivets on their trailers, it made perfect sense.  Rivets don’t usually loosen with vibration (which happens to bolts when driving). They are also good for joining parts where there is little separation between them.  The downside is that installing them generally requires a special tool (rivet gun), some learning, and often a drill to drill out the existing rivet (if replacing something already riveted in place, like the old Scamp LED shower light).

Fortunately, rivet guns are relatively inexpensive and I thought that since so many things on the Scamp are riveted, it would be nice to have a rivet gun for potential future use (also, I don’t know anyone who has a rivet gun I can borrow!).  It’s not the most popular tool these days (unless you hang out with RV veterans who like working on their rigs).  After doing a little research, I discovered that rivets are pretty common in RVs, often used on aluminum siding, hinges, latches, and many things attached to the RV walls.  While working on this project, I took a close look at the outside of our Scamp and noticed many white plastic rivet caps!  So, it seems many items inside the Scamp are riveted in place from the outside of the trailer.

The rivet gun I ordered also comes with 200 aluminum rivets (50 of each of the four most common sizes) and four drill bits (used to drill out already mounted rivets).  The rivet gun has four different head attachments which accommodates each size rivet [3/32”(2.4mm), 1/8”(3.4mm), 5/32”(4.0mm), and 3/16”(4.8mm)].  I was told by Scamp that the bathroom LED light utilizes 3/16” (4.8mm) rivets which are also 9/16” long.  The first thing I did was remove the opaque white cover on the existing bad LED lamp, then I removed the two white plastic caps covering the rivet heads inside the upper cabinet on the opposite side of the wall of the shower, and I utilized the 3/16” drill bit to drill out the rivet heads (x2) (this size bit easily drills through the 3/16” rivet head).  I found the bit quickly cut through the rivet head with little effort (since they are aluminum) and the heads wound up on the bit.  When the second head was drilled off, the bad bathroom LED light came off the wall and dangled, supported by its wiring.

Removing the bad bathroom LED light was simple once it was off the wall.  I simply removed the two wire nuts (making sure not to let the white and black wires touch each other to avoid a short circuit).  Before installing the new LED light, it was easy to test it by connecting it to the two wires (white to white and black to black).  After verifying the new LED light worked well, I removed it and took it to the work bench.  The two plastic mounting holes on each end needed to be slightly drilled out (they are a little too small in diameter for the 3/16’ to fit through).  I first removed the white opaque LED light cover so I wouldn’t accidently drill through it from behind.  Then, I used the same 3/16” drill bit I used to drill out the old rivet heads and I drilled out the two holes from the back of the LED light so the 3/16” rivets were able to fit through the holes (the long rod, or mandrel, goes into the rivet gun and then other end of the rivet goes through the cabinet wall and then through the back of the LED bathroom light holes).

Everything seemed to be going very smoothly.  I even tested a sample 3/16” rivet on the bad LED light (I had to drill out the plastic hole like on the new one).  To operate the gun, just place the long metal rod (mandrel) into the front of the rivet gun, put the rivet through the items that you want to join, and then squeeze the trigger multiple times until the rod breaks off (it takes some strength) (watch my attached video).  When squeezing the trigger, the head of the rivet compresses the rivet’s body (shortening and widening it) and pulls tightly together the two items being joined.  It’s here that I encountered an issue.  The 3/16” (4.8mm) diameter rivets I was using, which came with the rivet gun, were too short!  They didn’t have enough length to go all the way through the shower wall and plastic LED light mounting holes.  I reviewed my notes and found that Scamp mentioned that the length of the rivets they use for the LED shower light are 9/16”.  The ones that came with the rivet gun are the same diameter, 3/16”(4.8mm), but only 5/16”long, not counting the rivet head.  And, they would be even shorter once compressed by the rivet gun.

I couldn’t find 3/16”(4.8mm) rivets with 9/16” length on Amazon, so I ordered ones advertised as 3/16” x 5/8”since 5/8” or 10/16” is very close.  They showed up the next day (got to love Amazon!) but things were not as they seemed!  The rivet body on the new ones looked really long and I measured them to be 13/16” long!  The label on the package was clearly printed showing 3/16” x 5/8”.  Dumfounded, I searched online and found that the first measurement of the listed rivet size is the diameter (which is what I expected), but the second measurement is the “maximum grip range” and not the rivet length (despite what some of the Amazon sellers show on their charts).

The story thickens.  As it turns out, the “grip range” is the range of thicknesses that the rivet can hold together once it is compacted by a rivet gun.  For example, if one is riveting two pieces of material together and the two pieces together will be 5/16” thick then you will need a rivet with a grip range that covers that thickness. A rivet with a grip range of 4/16” – 6/16” would be a match since 5/16” thickness falls in the middle of the range.  A rivet with a smaller grip range would be too short to hold the pieces together and one with a larger grip range would hold the pieces together, but would be too loose (allowing separation of the parts).  The thickness of the materials for the LED bathroom light and Scamp wall is around 6/16” (I measured by inserting a wire rod through the cabinet wall hole and all the way through the thickness of the LED lamp as it was held against the shower wall.  I used a marker to mark the length of wire which I then measured with a ruler, see video).  Upon speaking to Scamp a second time, I was told that the industry number of the rivet they use for the LED bathroom light is a #6-6 rivet.  The first number is the diameter in 32nds – so, 6 is equal to 6/32” or 3/16” diameter.  The second number refers to the maximum grip length in 16ths – so 6 is equal to 6/16”.  This is the maximum length to which the rivet body will compress.  So, the #6-6 rivet Scamp uses has a maximum grip length of 6/16” which will accommodate the thickness of the LED shower light materials I estimated at 6/16”.  So, it would make sense then that the first rivets I ordered on Amazon which had a maximum grip range of 5/8” (or 10/16”) would have been too long for the thickness of the materials (around 6/16” thick) and the LED bathroom light would probably have just dangled from the wall if those were used.  I ordered the #6-6 rivets and they worked perfectly — just the right size to hold the LED bathroom light tightly against the bathroom wall.

The hardest part of a rivet project is figuring out the correct size of rivets to use.  Once that is known, then actually using the rivet gun and attaching the rivets is very easy.  I positioned the LED bathroom light wiring behind the light so that the wiring nuts were tucked inside the recessed area in order to get the light body to sit flatly against the wall.  Then, I inserted each rivet into the hole, squeezed the handle on the rivet gun several times until the mandrel fell off, and that was it!  The LED bathroom light attached really tightly against the shower wall!  Of course, there are many other items in the Scamp 13’ that use rivets, and armed with this new knowledge and a new rivet gun, we look forward to the next riveting project!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Why and How I Repositioned Our 2020 Scamp’s Shower Pump

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Why and How I Repositioned Our 2020 Scamp’s Shower Pump

In the past two years since taking delivery of our 2020 Scamp 13’, I haven’t spent much time looking underneath the camper.  I did add underglow lighting and had to replace a faulty Grey tank capacity sensor over the past couple of years, but other than these things most of my attention has been above the floor.  It was only this past month, when we ran into trouble south of the Trona Pinnacles, did I see how exposed and perilous a position where the factory installed shower pump sits.  On this misadventure, after a series of unfortunate events (lack of signs, wrong turns, continually narrowing roads), we found ourselves on a grueling ATV trail with no easy and safe way to turn around.  Here’s a short video from our off road drive!  When we finally arrived at the Pinnacles from the south, we noticed our shower water pump (which hangs down really low below the Scamp) was damaged.  One of the hose connectors on the pump was completely broken off and the vinyl tubing was dangling down to the ground.  Fortunately, an RV repair shop about an hour away was able to replace our pump immediately so we could continue on with our trip.  The mechanic and I spoke about repositioning the pump into a nice protected recessed area (under where the toilet sits) adjacent to the factory position, but due to concern about the tubing becoming pinched, and our time constraints, we opted to leave it in its original spot.

When we returned home, I resolved to reposition the shower pump into the protected recessed position (under where the toilet sits) to avoid a potential repeat of what happened south of the Trona Pinnacles.  The first thing I did was call Scamp and ask why the shower pump is factory mounted in the low center exposed position (under the shower pan).  I was told that it is placed in this position because the plumbing hoses will get pinched or crimped if it is put in the deeper recessed position.  This is exactly what the mechanic told me when trying to replace the new pump in this location.  There really isn’t much room for the vinyl tubing to attach to the hose adapters on the pump and make such a sharp turn in the small recessed area to avoid the trailer frame.  Ultimately, after some research, I decided to use 90 degree threaded elbow connectors to address this problem.  The hardest part of the project was figuring out all the supplies and tools I needed.  After that, the actual relocation of the Scamp shower pump was relatively easy and only took about an hour working slowly and cautiously.  Here are the Project Tools and Supplies I used to relocate the Scamp 13’ shower pump.

Project Tools and Supplies:

a.  Tools

    1. Square #2 Screwdriver or
      1. Electric screw driver which accepts ¼” bits
      2. Square #2 bits
    2. Pex / Vinyl Tubing Cutter
    3. Metal Snips
    4. Wire cutters
    5. Crimper tool

 b.  Supplies

    1. ¾” ID, 1” OD vinyl tubing w/clamps (10 feet) 
    2. Two ½” PVC 90-Degree MPT x FPT Elbow Fitting (threaded inside and out)
    3. Wire similar in thickness to existing pump wire to extend wire for reposition, butt connectors

Here are the Project Steps I took to relocate the Scamp 13’ shower pump.

Project Steps:

  1. SAFETY: I made sure my Scamp 13’ was parked on a flat level surface (my garage), the tongue jack was stable, and I used heavy duty wheel chocks to prevent the trailer from rolling.  I also wore safety glasses to help prevent anything from falling into my eyes while working under the trailer.  I also made sure my mobile phone was within reach in case I needed to call for help when working.
  2. Using the Square #2 Driver, I removed the two square #2 screws which hold the metal strap around the shower pump
  3. I unscrewed the metal hose clamps on the pump’s inlet and outlet (and placed little plastic containers under the hoses to prevent grey water from dripping onto the garage floor) and pulled both hoses from the pump’s inlet and outlet.
  4. I removed the shower pump by unscrewing the four Phillips head screws holding the pump’s rubber feet to the Scamp’s under floor (I left the 4 screws in the rubber feet to use again when remounting) and set the pump on the garage floor
  5. I would have cut and extended the black and red wires at this time (using new wire, wire cutters, butt connectors, etc.) to allow repositioning to the farther recessed area, but the mechanic who installed the new pump already extended the wires for me (before deciding he couldn’t easily reposition the pump)
  6. I removed the black plastic hose adapters from the pump inlet / outlet by manually unscrewing them from the pump
  7. I set the white ½” plastic threaded elbow connectors and black hose adapters down next to the pump on the floor facing toward the rear of the Scamp 13’ to visualize the setup
  8. I screwed on the white PVC ½” elbow connectors directly onto the pump. I found that I could only screw them on about 4 full turns and didn’t force turning them any more to prevent possible cracking.  I made sure their final position was facing back toward the rear of the Scamp (the rear of the pump has the big square and the front is the cylinder with aerodynamic small bulb).  Then, I screwed on the black hose adapters onto the white elbow connectors so they faced straight back.
  9. I positioned the pump into the protected recessed area under the toilet (as far forward as possible without the elbows hitting the metal frame) and, using the existing screws, I mounted the pump (the screws self-tap into the floor) (I was told the Scamp floor is ¾” thick and verified the thickness by measuring the exposed floor thickness next to the shower drain under the trailer, but I used the existing screws since they were in good condition so didn’t need to be concerned with screw length).
  10. I remounted the metal strap using the existing square #2 screws around the pump to secure it (using my metal snips, I clipped off one small segment / one hole so the strap would fit into the small area).
  11. Lastly, I attached the hoses using the metal clamps (from filter outlet to pump inlet, from pump outlet to Grey tank). The Tube Cutter made the job very easy; cutting the thick vinyl is just a quick snip.
    1. I put the metal clamps on the vinyl tube ends first before pushing them over the inlets/outlets.
    2. Grey Tank hose to Pump outlet: I was really careful not to cut the Grey tank hose too short (since that hose goes all the way to the back of the trailer).  I positioned the Grey tank hose right up against the pump outlet and made sure that there was enough hose to go all the way to the back of the outlet and then I clipped the excess hose.
    3. Filter outlet hose to Pump inlet: I first attached the new hose to the pump inlet and then I pulled the hose up to the filter and, making sure the new hose went all the way to the back of the filter outlet, made a quick cut with the tube cutter.
    4. After pushing all tubing over the inlet/outlets all the way to the back of them, I screwed the metal clamps over the hose inlets/outlets so they are really tight.
  12. After completing the project, I tested the system to make sure the water flowed properly (e.g. shower water drains quickly) and there were no leaks. Click here to see a video of the new system working.

I also installed a new metal Chip Guard from Scamp ($23.63 from Scamp + $20 shipping at the time of the writing), which hangs down to deflect rocks, etc. from hitting the underside of the Scamp.  Our Scamp’s original chip guard was badly dented while off-roading south of the Trona Pinnacles.  I tried to bend it back, but it would have taken a lot of effort, so I decided just to replace it.  With the Scamp’s shower pump now relocated to a protected recessed position and new chip guard, I feel the main parts under the trailer are now very well guarded.   To happier and safer trails ahead!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Small Travel Trailer Mini Air Conditioner Mount for Rear Window (Temporary)

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Small Travel Trailer Mini Air Conditioner Mount for Rear Window (Temporary)
***Remove AC When Travelling – this is a temporary setup just for use when parked!***

When we purchased our 2020 Scamp 13’, we knew we wanted to store it in our garage for many reasons (see “Why and How We Fit Our Scamp in the Garage”).  However, when we placed our order from the Scamp factory, we didn’t order the AC (but did order the reinforced roof for AC just in case situations changed, see “Ordering Our 2020 Scamp”).  This is because, even after raising our garage height from 7 to 8 feet, our new Scamp would have been too tall to clear the garage opening with the factory rooftop air conditioner.  So, we figured we would just plan trips to take hot weather into account.  And, this strategy has worked really well over the past couple of years (there have only been a few times when AC would have really come in handy — see “No AC, No Problem“).  Ultimately though, we have found that when heading to mountain lakes in the summer months, we need to make stops a bit out of our way or drive non-stop to cross the hot parts of California (e.g. Central Valley or Mojave Desert) to beat the heat.  These heat avoidance workarounds have meant taking less efficient longer routes or very long rides straight to our destination.

When looking for solutions (including more streamlined rooftop AC models), we came to realize that we only needed AC mostly in the summer months (and, even then, only on specific trips).  Rooftop ACs are most convenient — however, they are also relatively expensive (including requiring installation expense, unless you can do that yourself), moderately heavy (sometimes creating roof sag on fiberglass trailers), and can be costly to replace when necessary.  Additionally, even the low profile units we found looked to have questionable clearance to fit in our garage.  Taking into account all these factors, we decided that a temporary removable window AC unit would be perfect for our requirements (e.g. inexpensive, easy to install on a temporary basis, lightweight, and also cheap to replace when necessary).  We also wouldn’t have to carry around the heavier weight of a permanently mounted rooftop AC on every trip (including winter trips).  The goal of this project is to create a stable platform to temporarily and quickly mount the window AC unit when at the campsite (removed for driving) which won’t damage the trailer (e.g. window or fiberglass window frame) and provide insulation against insects and weather.

After considerable research and reviews of different window AC units and also various methods people have used to secure a window AC inside their fiberglass travel trailer’s window, I decided to buy a small Frigidaire (FFRE053WAE) 5,000 BTU unit for room sizes up to 150 square feet (more than sufficient to cool the Scamp 13’s less than 80 square feet of interior living space).  It’s inexpensive (currently around $210 on Amazon), small (16” wide, 12 1/16” high, and 13 3/16” deep), lightweight (43lbs on my scale), rated at only 50db noise level, energy efficient and very well reviewed.  Additionally, others have reported using this unit successfully to cool their small fiberglass travel trailers.  It’s among the smallest and lightest window AC units available and ranks as one of the top brands on Consumer Reports.

Every small fiberglass travel trailer is different and weight tolerances vary.  Anyone attempting to undertake this project should understand there are no guarantees when installing a window AC unit in their fiberglass travel trailer’s window.  Damage is a possibility if the trailer’s fiberglass cannot handle the weight of the window AC (this may be especially relevant for older trailers).  However, many people have used window ACs in their small fiberglass travel trailers for years without incident.  Additionally, even some fiberglass travel manufactures have mounted ACs in windows throughout the years.  Taking all this into consideration and wanting to be extra cautious, I decided on using a wood platform and foot brace under the AC (even though it’s fairly light) which helps distribute some of the AC’s weight onto the Scamp’s bumper (which is welded to the trailer’s frame).  This is designed to reduce strain on the fiberglass window frame.  To protect the window, black pipe foam (like a pool noodle) is used around all edges of the window frame.

I spent around $210 for the window AC unit and $100 for materials for a project total of roughly $310 (I didn’t include the $130 I spent for tools in this total because I will use these tools for years on other projects as well).  So, for just a few hundred dollars (perhaps the cost of a hotel room for one or two nights), this system should provide a small travel trailer years of air conditioning relief on hot days.

The tasks to complete this project can be performed in three stages as outlined below.  The listed measurements apply to our 2020 Scamp 13’ trailer but can easily be modified for other trailers and ACs with different sizes.

Stage 1:  Planning
Measure the rear window opening to determine if there is enough width and height to mount the desired AC model (comparing to the desired AC’s dimensions).  If necessary, it may be possible to cut out a portion or remove the rubber window stop entirely to get the window to open more completely.

Stage 2:  Shopping
I decided to purchase a lot of the items for this project online.  However, I purchased the plywood (as well as PVC) at Home Depot so their staff could do most of the cutting for me at no charge (they only do straight cuts though).  Here’s the item list I compiled to complete the project:

a.  Purchase window AC unit (Frigidaire Window AC Model #FFRE053WAE)
b.  Purchase plywood (and, if you want, have it cut at a big box store like Home Depot or Lowes)

    1. One 4’ x 4’ x ½” thick (or 15/32” thick) panel
    2. One 2’ X 2’ x ¾” thick panel

c.  Purchase Tools (if needed)

    1. Belt Sander (to round corners), extra sand paper for belt sander
    2. Jig Saw (to cut plywood), extra blades for jig saw
    3. Drill
    4. Electric Screwdriver
    5. 5/16” Drill bit (for hex bolts holding Sandwich Plates together)
    6. 3/32” Drill bit (pilot holes)
    7. 2.5” Spring Clamps (6)

d.  Purchase Hardware

    1. #6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Zinc Plated Wood Screws (100 pack)
    2. #6 x 3/8” flat head zinc plated Phillips wood screws (25 pack)
    3. Zinc Plated Hex Bolts x 5 (3 top, 2 bottom) ¼” -20 4” long
    4. Plated Wing Nut (4 pack) ¼” -20 x 2 packs (need 5)
    5. PVC Pipe 1”x 10’ White PVC
    6. PVC T Connectors for 1” diameter PVC x 2
    7. PVC End Caps for 1” diameter PVC x 3
    8. Black Pipe Foam 1” x 6’
    9. Wood glue Gorilla
    10. White (Glossy) Spray Paint (paint/primer) x 2 cans
    11. 2-Hole Pipe Hanger Straps 1” (4 pack) PVC brackets
    12. Velcro Strap (1)

Stage 3:  Construction (also refer to video)
Safety:  Always wear safety glasses for eye protection when working with power tools.

Interior Window Frame:
The purpose of the Interior Window Frame is to provide a stable space for the AC to be positioned into as well as protect the travel trailer’s window frame (so the AC doesn’t sit directly on the fiberglass).  The AC sits inside the Interior Window Frame (on a wooden platform) which sits against protective foam which surrounds the window (although there wasn’t enough window opening space on my Scamp 13’, even after removing a section of window stop, so no pipe foam was put on the outer side of the window  – though I added insulation on the AC interior to fill the gaps).  So whatever AC is used, it’s vital that the frame be large enough for the AC to fit inside it (but not too large, so the frame still fits snugly inside the rear window and doesn’t leave a big air gap).

It may be difficult to cut long lengths of wood with a jigsaw perfectly, so I recommend that, unless one has a circular saw, have a store like Home Depot make all the straight wood cuts.  The jig saw is absolutely fantastic and easy though for making the curved corner cuts (as well as the belt sander to smooth out the curves).  In this project, just the corners need to be rounded and the middle section of each sandwich plate needs to be cut out)

a.  Top & Bottom:  Cut two 16.5” long x 2.5” wide x .75” thick pieces of plywood
Carefully drill 5/16” holes (evenly spaced top and bottom) through the center of the .75” thick pieces, drilling through the entire 2.5” width so 4” hex bolts can pass through.  Three top holes 2” from each edge and one in the middle (all centered on frame), two holes in bottom corners 2” from each edge (a drill press makes this easier, I borrowed one from a neighbor)
b.  Sides: Cut two 14.25” long x 2.5” wide x ½” thick  (I had Home Depot cut these)
c.  Add wood glue onto ends of Top & Bottom pieces
d.  Position sides over the ends of these pieces
e.  Use #6 x 1” Phillips Zinc Plated Wood Screws (8) to join top, bottom and sides (use 3/32” bit for pilot holes if desired, otherwise just apply some pressure to start the screw into the side)
f.  Cut Black Pipe Foam and pad all sides of the rear window opening
g.  Once the square Interior Window Frame is Glued/Screwed together, position it in the rear window of trailer to make sure it fits. Remove a section of rubber window stop (see video) and/or use belt sander to round outside corners if it is too tight to fit.  The side window foam may also be removed if it is still too tight to fit the Interior Window Frame inside the trailer’s window (insulating foam can be pushed into gaps later when setting up at the campsite if necessary).
h.  Slide the square Interior Window Frame over the back of the AC to make sure it can slide almost all the way to the front of the AC (it should stop about an inch from the front due to protruding flanges on the AC).
i.  Fit the square Window Frame into the rear window (pipe foam will hold it in place)

Window Frame Sandwich Plates (Inner / Outer)
The purpose of the Window Frame Sandwich Plates is to hold the Interior Window Frame securely in place and provide insulation from insects and weather.

  1. Cut two 21” wide x 18” high x ½” thick pieces (I had Home Depot cut these)
  2. Trace round back outside window curves onto paper, apply by pencil to above pieces.
  3. Use the jigsaw and belt sander to round each outer window piece (watch video), also slightly round the window corners in the center of the trailer window to eliminate sharp points which can cause damage in transit
  4. Have a partner hold Outer Sandwich Plate in place over outside of rear window, completely covering the opening and level, and, on the inside of the trailer, use a pencil and mark the interior outline of the window frame on the inside of the Outer Sandwich Plate
  5. Use jigsaw to cut marked middle hole in Outer Sandwich plate (first start by drilling 5/16” holes in each corner so that the jigsaw blade may be inserted)
  6. Use outer Sandwich plate as template to mark middle hole position in Inner Sandwich Plate and use jigsaw to cut marked middle hole in Inner Sandwich Plate.
  7. Now, both Sandwich plates should have middle holes to allow the back of the AC to pass through
  8. Line up the Interior Window Frame with the Inner Sandwich Plate on a table and push a pencil through the 5/16” holes to mark the five holes in the top and bottom of the Interior Window Frame (3 marks on top and 2 marks on bottom). Then use these marks to drill 5/16” holes in both Sandwich Plates (using one as a template for the other).  These are for the hex bolts to pass through.
  9. Glue/screw (#6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Wood Screws x 12 – three on each side) to attach the Interior Window Frame to the inside of the Inner Sandwich Plate (make sure no parts of the plate rise above the Interior Window Frame opening so the AC will continue to pass through unobstructed)
  10. The five Zinc Plated Hex Bolts (six ¼”-20, 4” long) will go all the way through the two Sandwich Plates, and wing nuts on the outside of the Outer Sandwich Plate will hold both Sandwich Plates tightly against the Interior Window Frame (and the plates against the foam on the inside and outside of the trailer). This will hold the window frame assembly securely in position and prevent the AC from falling out of the trailer.
  11. Now assemble the complete window frame by bolting together the Inner (with the Interior Window Frame attached) and Outer Sandwich frames, securing the five hex bolts with ¼” -20 Plated Wing Nuts on the outside. Note:  I had to remove part of the rubber rear window stopper because the rear window didn’t open enough to allow the Interior Window Frame assembly to fit through the opening (at some point, on our Scamp, it didn’t help to keep removing pieces of the stopper because the window panel is eventually stopped from opening by the curve of the window.)  I also had to sand the outer upper and lower left hand (outer) corners of the Interior Window Frame round so the assembly would fit in the window.  It was too tight a fit even after taking these steps, so I needed to remove the outside side piece of pipe foam.  Insulating weather stripping comes with the AC and can be used at the campsite to temporarily fill any gaps

Platform Base
The purpose of the Platform Base is to help support the weight of the AC unit by using a PVC Leg and a PVC Foot to rest on top of the travel trailer bumper (which is welded to the Scamp trailer’s frame).

  1. Platform Base: Cut one 16” wide x 12” deep” x ½”  thick piece (I had Home Depot cut this)
  2. Use the jigsaw and belt sander to slightly round each corner of the Platform Base (for safety)
  3. Cut channels for underneath Platform Base: one 10” x 2.5” x ¾” thick (interior), one 6” x 2.5” x ¾” thick (exterior) (Home Depot can do this)
  4. Insert completed Interior Window Frame over pipe foam and then secure Outer Sandwich Plate to the Interior Sandwich Plate / Interior Window Frame with hex bolts and wing nuts
  5. Place Platform Base on top of the Interior Window Frame (so it doesn’t fall)
  6. Have a partner help position the AC inside the trailer (and someone outside to prevent the AC from falling out just in case) and put the AC on top of the Platform Base and hold the Platform Base in position as the AC back is pushed back inside the Interior Window Frame all the way until it stops (the outer flange protrusions on the AC should stop it from moving back when about a couple of inches of the interior control face is left inside the trailer). Adjust the Platform Base so it comes all the way out to the back end of the AC on the outside, as well as making sure the front AC feet are resting on it.
  7. With the AC nicely in position on the Platform Base, position the Channels (interior and exterior) on each side of the Interior Window Frame so they are against the Interior Window Frame’s bottom walls (inside and outside) and butted up on top against the underside of the Platform Base, not blocking the hex bolt holes, and mark these positions on the underside of the Platform Base (these markings will be where the Channels are glued and then screwed into the Platform Base)
  8. Remove the AC and entire assembly from the trailer
  9. Drill 3/32” pilot holes in the Platform Base (3 for the smaller exterior channel and 5 for the larger interior one, evenly spaced) up from the bottom of the Platform Base (inside the marked areas)
  10. Glue/screw (using #6 x 1” Phillips Flat Head Zinc Plated Wood Screws) both Inside and Outside Channels underneath the Platform Base (using the pilot holes as a guide for screw locations), making sure no channel blocks the hex bolt holes
  11. Place the Platform Base on top of the Interior Window Frame so that it is held in place by the Outer and Inner Channels underneath the platform. It should fit perfectly, with the Channels snugly up against the Interior Window Frame
  12. PVC Platform Base and Foot: Cut three 6” lengths (with saw or PVC cutter) of the 1” PVC and plug two of them into one of the PVC T connectors and also install PVC Caps on each end (and repeat again, but only using one 6” length and cap for the foot)
  13. Set up the AC window mount assembly in the trailer window (with the Platform Base)
  14. Position the PVC under the wood platform so that the PVC Leg (once cut to size) will align the PVC Platform Foot (secured to the bumper with Velcro) with the travel trailer bumper and mark the positions of where the two 2-Hole Pipe Hanger Straps 1” should be mounted (and use the #6 x 3/8” wood screws (4) to mount the PVC Platform Base under the wood platform) (make sure to leave enough space so the wing nuts can still be installed/removed
  15. Cut a section of PVC to length so that the PVC leg will just come down to and rest on the bumper when the PVC Platform Foot is installed (the Platform Base should be fairly level with a slight tilt back so any AC condensation drips outside). This lower section of PVC with the foot can be removed and stored separately for ease of transport when travelling.

Now that all parts have been made and the glue has dried, it’s time to test the system!  Open the rear window, place the pipe foam all around the window, insert the Inner Sandwich Plate/Inner Window Frame into position, insert the bolts, and use wing nuts to secure the Outer Sandwich Plate against the Inner Sandwich Plate/Inner Window Frame.  From the outside rear of the trailer, put the Platform Base in position and then plug the PVC leg into the PVC T Connector on the Platform Base.  Secure the PVC Platform Foot to the trailer’s bumper with a Velcro Strap.  Then, using a helper (to help lift the weight of the AC) inside the trailer, slide the AC into the Interior Frame.  Everything should be very secure and stable.  Add strip insulation as necessary so no sky can be seen when looking at the AC from inside the trailer.  Plug in the AC into the trailer’s 110V outlet (need electric hookups) and let it run to make sure it cools properly.  If everything runs great, remove the AC with a partner, take the assembly apart, and then paint all the wood components (I used glossy White to match our Scamp 13’s glossy white finish).  Now, the only thing left is to plan your summer trips and don’t forget to pack the AC!

Note:  We had the opportunity to use this new AC system in very hot weather (see upcoming Adventure article on the Central Sierra).  The AC performed exceedingly well in over 100 degree weather, chilling down the Scamp so well that blankets were pulled from the closet!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

How to Replace Broken Grey/Black Valve Handles and Caps

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How to Replace Broken Grey/Black Valve Handles and Caps
We just celebrated the two year anniversary of the delivery of our 2020 Scamp 13’.  In the past couple of years we’ve been to incredible places, seen miraculous things, and have had numerous adventures.  We’ve also been fortunate that there have been no major issues since receiving our trailer from the factory.  We have done a bunch of upgrades which make our Scamp much more comfortable and livable and all of these changes can be found on this website!  Sometimes, though, minor parts need to be replaced over time.  And, on our last trip (Anza Borrego Desert State Park), our Scamp did have some parts issues.  One of the valve handles broke apart when dumping.  And, at the same time, one of the two bayonet hooks, holding the black tank valve cover on, broke.

Once a valve handle breaks, it’s harder to open and close the valve when dumping.  Plastic parts are vulnerable to wear and tear and their eventual failure might also be accelerated by UV exposure when outside.  Fortunately, replacing the valve handles and caps to the grey and black tank connections is easy and inexpensive.   Rather than replace our broken valve handle with another plastic one, we went with this lightweight aluminum handle.  To remove and replace the broken handle, just use a pair of vice grips to stop the metal rod from turning and twist the broken handle counterclockwise to remove.  Similarly, twist the new handle clockwise onto the metal rod to install.  Note:  to avoid a mess, it’s best to completely drain all tanks before doing this to avoid pulling the valve rod open and accidentally releasing grey or black water.

When a cap cover bayonet hook breaks and the cap no longer seals securely onto the grey/black sewer connection pipe properly, the excess grey and black water runoff may leak onto the ground even after closing the valves.  That’s definitely a mess to avoid.  The stock valve covers only have two bayonet hooks, so if one breaks there isn’t much holding the cover on and providing a good seal.  So, when one of the hooks broke on our black tank valve cover, we chose a cap with 4 bayonet hooks instead of two.  That way, if one (or even two) breaks, the cover still can be securely sealed onto the drainage pipe.  This Camco cover seems to do a great job (and at the time of this writing is less than $5!).  The cover also comes with a garden hose connection, which is great for draining grey tank water into jugs (like what we do with our “Holy Grail Portable Grey Water Tank Solution”).  Additionally, there may be some locations (e.g. BLM lands) where dumping grey water may be legal and having a long garden hose allows for the grey water to be dumped far away from the trailer.  Note:  Although we do use this cap on our black tank sewer connection, we never use the garden hose connection because it would likely get clogged with black water debris.  We only drain black water using standard 3” rv sewer hoses when connected directly to dump station drains.

So, if you find yourself in a situation where your grey or black tank handle snaps or one of your drain covers breaks, don’t be too concerned.  Just replace them easily and inexpensively!  It’s also a good idea to carry extras on hand when you travel, just in case.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.