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Winning Yosemite’s Campground Reservations Online Lottery

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Winning Yosemite’s Campground Reservations Online Lottery

It’s no surprise that Yosemite National Park is a wildly popular destination – with magnificent waterfalls, sky-scraping granite rock formations, and ancient giant sequoias; the park saw over 4.5 million visitors in 2019!  Additionally, having over 800 miles of hiking trails within 1187 square miles of park, Yosemite is a popular destination for anyone loving the outdoors.  And considering camping fees are only $26 per night for a stay in an outdoor wonderland and chance to sleep under the stars, it’s no wonder winning this lottery is a crapshoot!

Now, during the Pandemic, Upper Pines campground may be the only one open for reservation requests (and only partially with up to 50% of campsites remaining closed for social distancing) out of 13 campgrounds in Yosemite.  And, even before the pandemic, Upper Pines campgrounds has been one of the most popular in Yosemite Valley since it offers roomy campsites under tall pines with stunning views of El Capitan and Half Dome.  But, with only 240 campsites (and much fewer with current restrictions in place), Upper Pines campground reservations become a lottery on the 15th of each month (reservations are released one month at a time, five months in advance).

(1).  The first thing you will need to get a campground reservation at Yosemite is a free account on recreation.gov if you don’t already have one.  This is the online system that allows for reservations across the National Park system.  Once you have your account setup, you can search campgrounds you want and review site lists which give details about each campsite.  After you decide when you want to visit Yosemite, log onto recreation.gov and search your desired campground.  For example, search Upper Pines to get a site list description of the campground, fees charged, and the chance to view the list of sites and site availability.  It’s a good idea to go through the sites well in advance and pick out 8 to 10 sites that will accommodate your small travel trailer (many have detailed descriptions of the campsite, such as whether it is in shade or close to a restroom).  Pick some sites that are highly desirable (such as overlooking a meadow or stream) and some that are average.  This will increase your odds of getting a spot because there are many more people trying to get the highly desirable spots.

(2).  Figure out when you would like to go to Yosemite and count back five months to understand when you will need to make your online reservation.  For example, if you want to go sometime between May 15th and June 14th, you will need to make a reservation online five months earlier at 7 a.m. PST on January 15th.  At the present time, the system does allow you to extend your reservation past the 14th if your arrival date is on or before the 14th.   This presents an interesting strategy in allowing booking into the next reservation window which is not yet open and, in turn, possibly increasing your chances of getting a campsite.  For example, if you want to stay in the second part of June for a week, you could still book on January 15th by booking an arrival date on June 14th and checking out June 21st!

(3).  Get your list of 8 to 10 sites ready for the morning of the 15th.  Don’t worry about booking more than one site, because you are actually not booking the campsite until you go through the complete reservation including payment.  Clicking on Book Now will just hold the site for 15 minutes until you complete your reservation.  If you don’t follow through with the reservation, the site will be re-released to the public after 15 minutes.

(4).  Plan to start online prepping at around 6:30 a.m. (PST) on reservation morning – sign into your account and start clicking on each site you want (making sure it hasn’t already been reserved during the previous reservation cycle, if it is close to the date of the previous month cutoff).  The recreation.gov website will automatically open a new browser window for each site you click on.  You will now have multiple browser windows open (one for each desired campsite,  perhaps 8 to 10) with each displaying the Book Now buttons and price of the stay.  Open up an accurate time website like this one to carefully monitor PST.  As soon as the time hits 6:59 a.m. and 50 seconds start clicking on each Book Now button in your windows.  The idea is to get your reservation in exactly at 7 a.m.  If you are just a little too early, the reservation request will bounce and you will have to click Book Now again.  You are likely competing against thousands of clicks for 240 or less campsite spots.  Once you reach the end of the windows, go back to each of the windows from the start to see if you got lucky.  If you did, you will see a shopping cart on the top right with 1 item and a timer counting down from 15 minutes.  If you do not complete your reservation within 15 minutes, it will be released back into inventory.  All available sites will usually be gobbled up within a couple of minutes or less.

If you didn’t win the online reservation lottery this time, don’t despair.  First, check back on recreation.gov around 7:15 a.m. the same morning as there is a good chance some reservations didn’t go through and the sites have been re-released for purchasing.  When searching at 7:15 a.m., select your dates and then View by Availability.  If you see a campsite that may work, click on it immediately to at least secure it for 15 minutes while you figure out if it really is a viable option for you.  If no campsites are available, and you are feeling especially lucky, you could just drive to Yosemite and see if any first-come, first-served campsites are open.  Please check here if this idea seems thrilling.  If this sounds a bit too risky, another option is to stay outside the park at a private campground.  Or, you can try using CampFlare– a free service website that scans the reservation systems for last minute openings and notifies you when a campsite becomes available.

Having a small travel trailer will greatly slant the odds in your favor at winning Yosemite’s Campground Reservations Lottery because most of the campsites are small.  So far, I’m two for two at this lottery!  Hopefully the above tips will put you in the winner’s circle as well!  Good luck!  See you up at Yosemite!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

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5 Reasons to Replace Particle Board in your Camper

Particle board is an engineered wood product made with wood chips and glue (synthetic resin).  The main reason manufacturers of small travel trailers use particle board for tables, countertops, doors, and drawers / cabinets is because it’s cheap.   Here are 5 reasons you may consider replacing particle board in your camper:

(1).  Particle board can be very heavy. It’s held together with glue (resin) and the weight can add up quickly.  We are in the process of replacing our 2020 Scamp 13’ table (actually two tables since we ordered the 54” bigger bed option) and we just weighed the smaller bed support table (20” long x 29.5” wide).  We used ¾” maple plywood purchased from Home Depot for our new table.  Our original particle board small table weighs 12.4 lbs., compared to our new fully varnished (high gloss interior polyurethane with 3 coats) small table at 6.8 lbs.  That’s a huge weight difference (the particle board table is about 80% heavier).

(2).  Particle board can be very weak. Because it’s made from wood chips and glue, it doesn’t have the structural strength of real lumber.  For most purposes in the small travel trailer, that’s OK because putting food or other items on a table generally won’t break the particle board.  However, any metal fittings that are screwed into the particle board have the potential of ripping out if exposed to a load.  That’s what happened one day recently when I was setting up our Scamp table.  As I was elevating the table to its upright position and sliding the thin metal brackets into their clamshell receptacles attached to the wall, one of the hardware fittings attached underneath the Scamp table ripped right out (all the screws and the particle board they were screwed into), leaving a big crater underneath the table.

(3).  Particle board is highly porous. So, if any moisture happens to leak underneath its veneer cover, the particle board can easily absorb the moisture, expand, and warp.  Additionally, it can be susceptible to mold which may eat through the board and cause various health issues.

(4).  Particle board can be toxic if manufactured with formaldehyde resin (which it commonly is). The resin can break down for years and release formaldehyde gas (called “off gassing”).  The gas can pollute the interior air of the small travel trailer and cause eyes to water, throats to burn, and difficulty breathing.  This gas is also known to be carcinogenic and toxic, meaning it may cause certain types of cancer.  It’s also been linked to an increased risk of allergies and asthma in children.  The U.S. Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR) states that “chronic exposure to formaldehyde may also cause general damage to the central nervous system, such as increased prevalence of headache, depression, mood changes, insomnia, irritability, attention deficit, and impairment of dexterity, memory and equilibrium.”

(5).  Particle board can be ugly. Although this may be a matter of personal preference, I’ve always found the wood veneer skins that are glued to many particle board surfaces to have a dated and artificial appearance.  In contrast, maple or birch veneers on plywood are really great looking.

It’s understandable that a manufacturer producing hundreds or thousands of units of travel trailers would choose particle board to save extensively on build costs.  However, that doesn’t mean you have to live with what some describe as “cut rate cheap junk” in your travel trailer.  For the 5 reasons listed above, replacing the particle board (or at least some of it) in your small travel trailer is worth serious consideration.  Because particle board has a lower expected life span compared to plywood due to being weak and porous, you might just have to replace it anyway in the near future (as in our case with our 12 month old 2020 Scamp 13’ table / bed).  If you do decide to replace any of your particle board with plywood, just make sure that the plywood type you choose is constructed with non-toxic adhesives (e.g. no formaldehyde).  The maple plywood sheeting we purchased at Home Depot is made without formaldehyde using a soy-based technology, “producing a water-resistant, nontoxic decorative plywood panel that is not prone to warp like solid wood and will not emit harmful fumes or degrade interior air quality.”

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Methods to Avoid Dreaded False Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector Alarms

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Methods to Avoid Dreaded False Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector Alarms

Small travel trailers are usually outfitted with combination Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarms.  The one in our 2020 Scamp 13’ is located near the front door under one of the dinette seats.  It’s essential that every small travel trailer have one of these alarms because smoke and carbon monoxide exposure can be lethal.  Carbon monoxide is a poisonous gas that cannot be seen or smelled and is produced by liquid propane.  CO gas can potentially enter the travel trailer via a gas stove or gas powered water heater (or gas powered heaters and generators).  Carbon monoxide is especially toxic when built up in a small enclosed space like a small travel trailer.  So, it’s really important that the Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector is functioning properly and is replaced by the marked replace date.  It’s also imperative that an alarm be taken very seriously as it could make the difference between life and death.  If you have a Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarm, the recommended procedure is to quickly exit your trailer and turn off your propane tanks outside (leaving the trailer door open to ventilate).

False alarms from Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarms in small travel trailers are very common, but also sometimes frightening when first experienced (which often is around 2 a.m.).  I had my first one after walking out of a steamy shower and opening the bathroom door compartment into the main cabin.  The alarm immediately went off.  We also experienced one in the middle of the night when sleeping with closed windows and no fan running.  In both cases, we cleared the alarms quickly by opening up a window and running the fan on high for several minutes.  We learned that the most common cause for these types of false alarms is heavy moisture in the air (which can be caused by both a steamy shower and keeping all windows closed and allowing condensation inside the trailer).

Ever since our first Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector false alarms and learning that air moisture is usually their cause, we have avoided these dreaded alerts by keeping air flowing in our Scamp 13’.  We always turn on the bathroom fan and the main cabin fan (with one window slightly open) when taking a shower.  This ensures that air is blowing through the trailer.  The interior of our Scamp 13’ can also get condensation during the night if sleeping with all windows completely shut and no fans running.  In turn, when we go to sleep, we usually have a window slightly open and the main cabin fan running on low (and running the furnace if it is cold out).  Note:  it’s also a good idea to open your stove window and run your fan when cooking with your gas stove (we run our fan with the air blowing OUT) to vent out all gas fumes.

So, when showering and sleeping in your small travel trailer, always try to keep at least the bathroom fan on when showering, and the roof fan on (OUT setting) and a window slightly open throughout the night.  They don’t have to be open very much, just enough to keep air flowing.  Even if it’s really cold out, you can keep these open and run your furnace.  The furnace will keep you warm.  If you follow these recommendations and keep your small travel trailer properly ventilated, you are unlikely to be awakened in the middle of the night by a false Carbon Monoxide / Propane Gas Detector alarm or have issues with condensation.  And, your small travel trailer will likely be filled with cleaner fresher air by bringing fresh air in and flushing out indoor air pollution.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

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Electric Basics for Your Small Travel Trailer

Small travel trailers aren’t too complex, but one important system you should know something about is the electrical system and how it works.  The most important reason for this is so that you always have the power you need to at least run the most essential functions necessary to keep your trailer operating (e.g. LED lights, water pumps, heater, and perhaps an electric tongue jack).  Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC).  Your trailer’s battery is about 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to never let your trailer’s battery go below 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity).  A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor your trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install one when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs them on its 2021 models).

A good way of explaining how electricity works in your small travel trailer is by using the water/hose analogy.  Your trailer’s battery can be thought of as a water pump; the charge of your battery is water, voltage is the water pressure pushing the water through the hose (trailer’s electrical cables), the current being the flow of the water (measured in Amps), and power is the total amount of water flowing in a given time (measured in watts).  Most campgrounds offer 110V AC 30 amp outlets (typically the amperage used in small travel trailer electrical systems) and sometimes 110V AC 50 amp outlets (used for large RVs – for running two or more high-powered devices simultaneously like an electric water heater and AC).  The higher number of amps means more power can be supplied to your trailer at any given time.  Campgrounds may also offer 15/20 amp outlets at 110V AC (like the ones typically found at home).  These outlets provide less power capacity than 30 / 50 amp outlets (meaning you may not be able to run your AC and electric water heater at the same time without tripping the circuit breaker) and generally should only be used as a last resort if a 30 amp hookup is not available for your small travel trailer (or if you are at a home using a 110V Male to 30A Female adapter).    It’s also a good idea to have an auxiliary battery power bank, like a Jackery 500, for use when you are off grid and want to preserve your trailer’s 12V battery power for essential devices.

Your small travel trailer will likely have a converter which converts 110 volt power coming in from your campground hookup outlet into 12 Volts.  This enables all the 12 volt devices in your small travel trailer to work off 110V, like your LED lights, pumps, etc.  When hooked up, you will also be able to use the 110V outlets inside your small travel trailer to power other plug-in devices you bring along with you on your trip (being careful not to exceed the circuit limits in your trailer – often 15 or 20 amp fuses / circuit breakers).  However, if your small travel trailer has 110V outlets, they are unlikely to work without hookups because most small trailers don’t have inverters (allows your 12V battery to power 110 volt outlets).  Common devices running off electricity inside your small travel trailer are LED lights, a fresh water pump that pressurizes your water system and allows you to use your fresh water tank (city water provided by a hose hookup does not require a pump since it in itself provides continuous water pressure), a water pump under the shower floor to keep the shower water draining into the grey tank and preventing the shower floor from flooding, the bathroom fan, the main overhead fan, TV, the electric furnace blower fan which blows the hot air typically produced by the propane heater, and other electric ignition systems used for lighting gas powered devices like the water heater, and potentially others.

One very important item that should be with your small travel trailer at all times is a 110V Male to 30A Female dogbone adapter.  This will allow you to connect your trailer’s 30A power cord into a regular household 110V outlet.  It’s essential when you want to hook up at a house or anywhere there is just a regular 110V outlet.  Since we store our Scamp travel trailer in our garage, we constantly use the adapter to keep our battery charged and also run the Scamp lights and other appliances when necessary.  Additionally, we often use the adapter so we can power our Scamp’s refrigerator the day before we leave on a trip so we can put our groceries in early [since our Scamp has 3 modes for running the fridge – AC, 12V (when driving), and Propane (when no electricity is available at the campground)].  Lastly, it’s very common for us to stop at a relative’s house during our trips and we use the adapter for power when we driveway camp.

A large external independent battery power bank can power many of your essential devices while preserving your travel trailer’s battery power for your super essential appliances like lights, fans, and pumps.  We purchased the Jackery 500 which has 518Wh of power (which can power a lot of devices for a long time).  To calculate how long the Jackery 500 (which is rated at 518 Wh) will run devices, simply divide the device’s total energy in the powerbank (518W) by the appliance’s energy draw (measured in Watts).  For example, our 12V TV draws 28W, so it should run about 18.5 hours (518Wh/28W).  We recently used our 12V TV powered by the Jackery on a trip from San Diego to Oregon and watched two hour movies each night for five nights and there was still about 50% charge left on the Jackery, confirming this calculation.  When boondocking (no power hookups), use your battery power bank to run your TV, charge your batteries (phone, camera, drone, etc.) and other portable battery powered devices.  This will ensure your small travel trailer batteries are completely dedicated to your essential devices.  The Jackery 500  has a 12V cigarette socket, USB ports, and even a 110V outlet.  It can even be used to run a portable air compressor.  You can charge it in your car while driving between camping locations, with 110V power outlets at campsites, and also with a solar panel.

Just because your small travel trailer is connected up to a 30A hookup, doesn’t mean all that current can flow through to your devices.  Your small travel trailer has fuses for each circuit to protect devices within your trailer.  Many of these circuits are allocated only 15 or 20 amps to protect the devices on the circuit and the 15/20 amp fuses protecting these circuits will blow if too many lights and appliances draw power from the circuit.  If this happens, the metal ribbon inside the fuse will melt and the circuit will go dead (meaning all the devices on the circuit will be rendered temporarily useless until the fuse if replaced).  This is designed to protect your appliances from getting too much power and, in turn, damaged.  So, it’s important you don’t plug anything in which may place too much demand on your small travel trailer’s electrical system (e.g. hairdryer).  So, when adding new 110V plug-in devices to your trailer, check the device’s power requirements (divide the device’s Watts / 110 volts = # of amps).  For example, if you want to use a small electric ceramic space heater, calculate the device’s amps and make sure it will draw less than the circuit can handle (let’s assume 15 amps) when also considering all other appliances on the circuit.  Each fuse in your small travel trailer should be labeled so you know what circuit it represents.  In this case, if there are already devices which are running at 6 amps on the circuit you want to use (you would have to figure out and calculate each device’s power requirements on that circuit if you want to be extra precise), then the ceramic space heater should use no more than 9 amps since 6 amps + 9 amps = 15 amps (and preferably less to be conservative).  If more than 15 amps is drawn, then the fuse will blow.  We just purchased a small electric space heater for our Scamp and calculated its current draws at medium (600W / 110v = 5.5 amps) and high heat settings (1200W / 110v = 10.9 amps).  We haven’t calculated all the devices’ power requirements on each circuit, but are comfortable we should be ok using the heater on the medium setting since the draw is only 5.5 amps (we wouldn’t risk using the high heat setting as just this heater alone is getting close to 15 amps and there could be other devices on the circuit we plug the heater into).  Alternatively, we could plug the heater straight into our Jackery 500 and run it on medium heat setting for about 50 minutes (518Wh/600W) or on the high heat setting for approximately 25 minutes (518Wh/1200W).  As you can see from this example, the ceramic heater draws too much power to run it for hours off a small portable auxiliary battery power bank.  In turn, it would be best to run this heater off of hookups at the campground or using the trailer’s propane powered furnace when off grid.

Some great electrical accessories to have in your small travel trailer are a good surge protector, a big box of fuses (in case you blow one), an electrical tester, and a solar panel.

  1. Good surge protector: It is common to hear stories about bad wiring at campgrounds.  And, plugging your travel trailer directly into a bad circuit or getting a power surge could cause damage to your trailer’s electrical system and appliances.  To avoid the risk, it’s best to use a good surge protector every time you plug in your trailer.  We have used the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X for almost a year and have had a really good experience with it.  The scrolling digital display shows if there are any errors with the campground wiring and provides peace of mind that the power is clean.  It has a weather shield and a secure locking bracket to prevent theft.

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  1. Big box of auto fuses: It would be extremely annoying if an entire trip was ruined because no lights and other devices worked as a result of a blown eight cent fuse!  We purchased this 120 fuse set on Amazon (make sure to check your small travel trailer accepts standard-sized auto fuses) and we store it under one of our kitchen dinette benches in our Scamp.  Alternatively, there are also super cool GLOW fuses that glow when they are blown (but expect to pay more for these)!

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CLICK HERE TO BUY THE GLOW FUSES (50 pack)!

CLICK HERE TO BUY THE GLOW FUSES (10 pack)

  1. Electrical Tester: a digital multimeter is a great tool to check electrical continuity (such as seeing if a fuse is blown it’s not visible) or checking if power is coming out of the solar panel cables.

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  1. Solar Panel: a 100W solar panel is a great option to help recharge your small travel trailer batteries daily when camping without hookups.  We’ve found our solar panel can maintain our Scamp’s battery at 12.5V (a good place) for days on end as long as the sun shines. The solar panel may also be used to recharge your independent power bank.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. I’m not an electrician or electrical engineer, so I just write about the basics above based on our experiences with our Scamp 13’ travel trailer.  Please consult a professional if you need expert help.

The Economics of Owning a Small Travel Trailer

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The Economics of Owning a Small Travel Trailer

If you’re like me, you probably want to stay in a nice place when travelling.  A place that is both clean and comfortable and located in a desirable location.  And, the lodging cost must not be exorbitantly expensive.  Everyone has different standards regarding what is an acceptable accommodation, and this will greatly determine the outcome of a cost comparison between buying a small travel trailer vs. staying in a hotel when travelling.  For people who don’t mind staying in inexpensive motels and whose main objective is to save money (and perhaps don’t desire or appreciate the experiences and beauty of staying right inside a National or State Park or are not concerned about bed bugs), buying a small travel trailer may not make economic sense.  But, for many, the case for buying a small travel trailer is compelling.

A lot of people who own small travel trailers likely don’t purchase one with the sole purpose of saving money.  They like the freedom of having their own home on wheels they can take with them whenever they get the desire to travel.   And they enjoy the comfort a small travel trailer provides — having a small travel trailer means the interior can be tailored to the owner’s preferences, including colors, deluxe bedding and personalized amenities (like shampoos, gourmet food, etc.).  And, there are far fewer concerns about germs since everything in your space is yours!  This is especially true during the pandemic.  For us, the main reason we decided to buy a small travel trailer is so that we could stay in the midst of beautiful State and National Parks (where it would be almost impossible, extremely expensive or uncomfortable to stay otherwise).

The average rate at a Hilton hotel in the U.S. last year was around $145 / night and slightly over $200 / night at a Marriott.  And, rates at hotels within National Parks are often much higher.  For example, as of this writing, the rate at the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite for June 2021 starts at $341 / night (and goes up to $1,302 / night).  Lodging rates in larger popular cities, such as San Francisco, also tend to be particularly high.  In contrast, campsite rates at State and National Parks are typically $45 or less / night.  It is important to note that there is often rate inflation, annually pushing nightly hotel rates continually higher year after year.  In contrast, once you buy your small travel trailer, the only rate inflation you may experience will be the campground fees (which generally are very low).  And, after spending a night at a hotel, you’ve spent your money and walk away (just carrying away the experience).  In contrast, at the end of your trip staying in your small travel trailer, you get to drive it home and use it again and again!  And, interestingly, small fiberglass travel trailers like the Scamp, typically hold their value very well over time so you shouldn’t experience significant depreciation either.

Because everyone’s situation is different (e.g. hotel preference, RV preference, number of people travelling, type of tow vehicle, food preference, # of days travelling….), it would be very superficial to draw a specific exact numerical conclusion on the cost savings which may be achieved by travelling by small travel trailer.  But, in general, the savings tend to be significant because nightly rates at campgrounds are usually significantly less than at hotels and food can be brought along and prepared in the trailer vs. paying a premium at restaurants.  However, there are some considerations that may make travelling by small travel trailer more expensive or less desirable.  For example, if a tow vehicle is not already owned, this could be a significant expense.  Also, driving long distances each day can significantly raise the cost of a driving trip due to fuel costs.  Additionally, buying a more expensive small travel trailer (e.g. Airstream) or paying a lot to rent one can eliminate any cost savings as well.  And, some people may just prefer hotels and eating out at restaurants despite higher costs.  And, in some situations, hotels may be better situated for a specific location preference.

Having just completed our first year owning our 2020 Scamp 13’ small travel trailer — spending 31 nights during 6 trips and visiting 22 locations – our experience has been extremely positive and economically sound.  We paid about $18K for our almost fully loaded Scamp (with wider 54” bed and front bathroom), including the $2,195 delivery charge (driven from the Scamp factory in Backus, Minnesota to our home in San Diego, California).  We store our Scamp in our garage, so there are no storage costs.  We pay less than $400 / year for travel trailer insurance.  California PTI registration (for travel trailers 16’ or less) is only $10 every 5 years!  Maintenance costs on small travel trailers are extremely low.  Our campground stays for the year averaged around $33 / night for a total of just over $1K for our first year (31 nights) of travelling in our Scamp 13’.  One contributing factor to this low rate is that a number of stay overs were for free at either relative’s homes or Harvest Hosts or Boondockers Welcome sites.  We also brought our own food along for all our trips or had meals with relatives at their homes.  If we had stayed in hotels for the 31 nights and purchased meals each day, we probably would have conservatively spent around $200 / night or over $6K for our first year [31 nights x ($150 / night + $50 / meals / day for 2 people)].  So, in our case, based on our first year of travel, we saved roughly $5K in one year by owning a small travel trailer, which is almost 30% the cost of the trailer in savings.  It’s easy to see, that if one purchases a reasonably priced small travel trailer (<$20K), it will likely pay for itself in just a few years of travel if used regularly.

We’ve found the benefits of owning and travelling with a small travel trailer go way beyond economic.  We’ve been able to experience exquisitely beautiful locations in a variety of different settings in State and National Parks over the past year (see our Adventures section).  Despite what is regularly reported in the news, we did not experience crowds at the campgrounds we’ve visited.  We did have some difficulty in finding open campgrounds at the last minute, but always found alternative available locations.  The campsites have usually been extremely quiet.  And, we have not missed the typical noises coming from behind a hotel room wall, sheet inspections of a hotel room bed, being very hygienically careful in hotel bathrooms or wondering about food safety when eating out.  It’s been great waking up in nature and making pancakes on our stove or meeting up with friends also staying at the campground for a hike.  Watching a movie at a remote location is also a special treat (see How to Watch Movies in the Wild).  We’ve also enjoyed staying over in relatives’ driveways to visit as well as free stay overs at farms (Harvest Hosts / Boondockers Welcome).   Lastly, we’ve made a number of friends who we never would have met without staying in campgrounds.

Owning a small travel trailer can not only be an economic win as a travelling solution, but may also provide unexpected social, culinary, fitness, and soul filling opportunities along the way.  Highly recommended!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

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Is Converting the Dinette-Bed 2x/Day in a Scamp 13′ a Deal Breaker?

One key consideration when selecting a small travel trailer is bed configuration.  Will the bed be the right size for two people?  Can I leave the bed down all the time and still use the kitchen table?  How easy is it to convert the bed into the dinette in the morning and back again into the bed in the evening?  These questions are often key variables when considering choices of small travel trailers.

Health experts typically recommend between 7 and 9 hours of sleep per night for adults.  So, if a person usually sleeps about 8 hours per night, they spend 1/3 of each day sleeping!  That’s a lot of time!  In turn, it’s really important to seriously consider sleep when deciding on a trailer brand and configuration.  With the smallest travel trailers (around 13’ in length), there usually is a compromise in order to get both a nice sized bed and dinette.  This compromise is the necessity to convert the bed to the dinette every morning (and back to the bed in the evening).  This is the case for our Scamp 13’, which has a very roomy full-sized bed for two people (54” wide x 76” long) and, after conversion, a generously roomy kitchen table for four people.  For many, the perceived time and effort it takes to make this daily conversion is a deal breaker.  Often, the solution for those not wanting to undertake these daily conversions twice a day is to buy a larger trailer with a bed which can be left down all the time.  For example, the Scamp 16’ allows for a side two-person dinette (offering the possibility for the bed to always be left down).  In this case, no daily conversion is necessary (however, if the bed is left down, the usable dinette table in the Scamp 16’ is much smaller than that in the Scamp 13’).

After deciding on a Scamp small travel trailer (see our article on Ordering our 2020 Scamp), we needed to choose between the 13’ and 16’ models.  While both allow for the low cost $10 every 5 years California PTI registration (available for small trailers 16’ or less), the Scamp 13’ fits in our garage better, is a bit lighter (up to 800 lbs lighter than the Scamp 16″ Standard according to Scamp!), and has the wider 54” bed option not available on the Scamp 16’ Standard.  We didn’t think sleeping on a 43” wide bed would be as comfortable for two people.  So, with that, our decision was made and we were committed to undertaking the twice a day dinette-bed conversion when travelling in our Scamp 13’.  We just hoped it was not going to be a real pain and get to be too much after a while.

In the end, undertaking the daily dinette-bed conversion was just not that big a deal.  Perhaps it’s because we only travel every month or so (up to 10 days at a time) and aren’t living in our Scamp 13’ full time.  However, it seems not much different than making our bed every day at home.  The actual conversion of flipping up the table arm, lowering the table into the bed position, and sliding the cushions over the tables is ridiculously easy (and similar for the reverse procedure).  Laying out the memory foam mattress topper and sleeping bag takes a little more time.  But, overall, the entire process is very doable and we are happy we chose the Scamp 13’.  If we were living in the Scamp full time, then it probably would be nice to have the bed down all the time.  If I were a solo traveler, I would likely order the Scamp 13’ with bigger 54” bed and implement a table modification to allow for a hybrid bed-table setup – so the bed can always be left down and still allow for a table (similar to the great approach presented in this discussion here).

In order to see how much time it actually takes one person to make the dinette-bed conversion, we made the above video and timed it.  In both cases of conversion (dinette to bed and bed to dinette), the time it took one person is less than three minutes.  So, if spending 6 minutes or less per day on making / unmaking your bed is reasonable and you don’t mind getting a little bit of exercise, choosing a smaller trailer (such as the Scamp 13’) could actually end up giving you more room for your dinette and bed than if you chose a slightly larger model trailer with a dedicated bed.  Additionally, you might also find you are getting into more campgrounds as a result of your smaller size (secret)!

Update:
We are still going strong in our 2020 Scamp 13′ after over four years (35 trips, 125 locations, and 226 nights) and are happy with choosing this model despite the bed conversion.  We stopped using a bed topper as the softer foam cushions make sleeping much more comfortable than the much firmer factory ones.  We also made the daily bed conversion easier by replacing the particle board on the dinette table with lightweight plywood.

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Should I have a Camping Logo?

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Should I have a Camping Logo?

It all started in November 2019 when we took delivery of our 2020 Scamp 13’ travel trailer without any logos… for a clean all-white glossy look.  The only Scamp designation on the trailer was on the rear spare tire cover, which is printed with Scamp’s logo and phone number.  After a few months, the all-white vinyl tire cover was getting yellowed and didn’t look great.  (It was getting to be a bit embarrassing.)  Time for a replacement?  But, we preferred something unique and special for our next tire cover.

At about the same time the Scamp spare tire cover was ready to be replaced, we thought it would be great to start a small travel trailer blog to help others flatten their learning curve.  While developing the website, a friend recommended we have a logo.  Although not necessary, we thought this would add a nice touch on each web page as well as on our profile image for our scamptrailer Instagram account.  In addition, it would provide an opportunity to order a high quality custom spare tire cover with our own logo to replace the yellowed one we had.  So, next project: develop a logo!

The first thing we did to create our logo was develop a concept of what we wanted.  Our initial thoughts were that the logo should have a bear, owl, Scamp 13’ travel trailer, some trees, and mountains – things we love to experience while camping.  Choose design elements that are meaningful to you when creating your logo.  We also wanted the artistic elements to be integrated in some way so that it looks like a real logo design and not just a drawing.  To save a lot of time and expense, we sketched out the initial design idea ourselves with pen and paper.  Once we were satisfied, we sent the drawing to our illustrator friend and had her professionally draw it out.  The initial rendering was created with black lines and then a second drawing added just a few elements yellow (windows, owl’s eyes, and moon).  Later, we gave the completed design to a relative who is a graphic artist and he colorized the entire illustration.  Having a few color variations provides some design options for different logo uses (e.g. website, Instagram profile, spare tire cover, stickers, t-shirts …..).

The process of creating a logo can be very quick, depending on you and your ideas.  It’s also not too expensive.  If you are an artist type, then you can probably create your own logo for free in a graphics design program like Photoshop.  However, we decided on using a professional for illustrating our design.  Our logo cost around $140 to make (although our relative did not charge us to colorize the final illustration).  In the end, creating a camping logo is more than worth it if you are actively using your small travel trailer because you can not only use the logo for a spare tire cover, but also for online profile images, giveaway items like stickers, as well as t-shirts you can wear on your trips.  If your logo is on your outside spare tire cover, it will be seen quite a bit and you will really enjoy the customized look and most likely get a lot of compliments and questions.  The logo gives your small travel trailer a bit more personality, both on the road and in the campground.  Additionally, if you choose to make stickers with your logo, you can give them away to new friends you meet at the campgrounds as your calling card as well as trading them on Instagram.  You might even create t-shirts with you logo!  The list of possibilities for your logo is almost endless!

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Email Marianne if interested in Logo design:  mariannerf@gmail.com

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

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How Easy is Towing a Small Travel Trailer for the First Time?

I had no absolutely no experience towing a small travel trailer when our Scamp 13’ was dropped off at our home by the factory delivery driver.  After a quick review of some of the Scamp’s features and signing the paperwork (and handing over a check), the driver left and the Scamp was now in our garage ready to be taken on adventures.

I really liked the idea of all the possible trips we could take by having a small travel trailer and the probable fun we would have.  Small travel trailers are a golden ticket into places most cannot spend the night (at least not comfortably), like State and National Parks.  In the past, we would stay at a hotel if we wanted to visit scenic outdoor locations.  And, hotels at these types of places are typically not cheap!  In contrast, most nightly campground rates at State and National Parks are generally very reasonable (often less than $40 / night).  For example, a full hookup spot (meaning electricity, water, and sewer are provided at your campsite) at Furnace Creek Campground in Death Valley National Park is currently only $36 / night.  In comparison, a room at the Inn At Death Valley starts at around $350 / night in January.  In addition, you can prepare all your meals in your small travel trailer, but would likely have a much higher meal cost at the hotel.

Given all the positives, we decided we would just have to learn how to tow the small travel trailer and hoped it wouldn’t be that difficult.  The first challenge came up pretty soon after delivery.  In order to register the trailer, we needed to tow it to the local AAA as an in-person inspection is required!  With no prior experience, and after a bit of research, we hooked up our Scamp and drove it to AAA.  It actually was a very easy first drive experience.  The Scamp just follows the tow vehicle and, unless you make sharp turns, change lanes too fast, or go over bumps too quickly, it really isn’t a big deal to tow.  It is important to allow for wide turns so the trailer following you can clear whatever you are turning around.  The only stress initially was changing lanes, but even that has now become as easy as driving without the Scamp attached.  You just have to take it slowly and make extra sure the lane is clear before you change lanes.

Advanced research and preparation seem to be the keys for first time towing success.  Just like studying for a test, if you prepare in advance you will stand a higher chance for a positive outcome.  First, it’s important you select the right tow vehicle before you buy your small travel trailer.  Although I did chat with someone who told me he tows his Scamp 13’ travel trailer with a Toyota Prius, I wouldn’t recommend that for anyone.  Instead, choose a vehicle that is rated to tow (meaning the transmission and brakes, etc. were designed for towing) and can easily handle the weight of your trailer as well as the hitch (tongue) weight your small travel trailer puts on your tow vehicle’s hitch ball (to be conservative, having at least 30% more vehicle capacity than the weight and tongue weight of the trailer may be a good starting point).  In most cases, a decently powered SUV will do the job for towing a small travel trailer (but check the specs on your trailer and desired tow vehicle).   In our case, we chose the Volvo XC40 with the T5 AWD engine and factory installed tow package (248 hp, tow rating = 3,500 lbs if trailer has brakes / tongue weight rating = 350 lbs).  Scamp lists the approximate weight of the standard 13’ model between 1200 and 1500 lbs. and the tongue weight at 100 lbs.  So, in this case, the Volvo XC40 is easily rated to tow the Scamp.  The extra tow and tongue capacity allows for potentially higher weights due to carrying gear in the Scamp as well as provides power for steep mountain passes.  The tow vehicle should be ordered with a factory tow package if available and the small travel trailer should be ordered with electronic brakes.

We have found the Volvo XC40 to be an exceptional tow vehicle in many ways.  First, since it’s only a four cylinder turbo, it gets relatively good gas mileage — we routinely get 20MPG when towing.  It also feels incredibly stable to drive and the weight of our Scamp 13’ is not noticeable (even going up steep grades).  And, since it is all wheel drive (AWD), it always feels sure footed even on the bumpy sloped dirt surfaces one is likely to encounter at some campgrounds.  We picked up the vehicle in Sweden through Volvo’s Oversees Delivery Program (which is a fantastic experience in itself).  This allowed us to drive the car around Sweden for a couple of weeks and get to know the vehicle and the country.

Once you have your very capable tow vehicle, it is time to order a capable hitch to plug into your vehicle’s hitch receptacle.  We purchased this heavy duty hitch (2 x 2” shank with 2” ball) which is rated to tow 7,500lbs gross trailer weight and 750lbs tongue weight!  So, this hitch can easily accommodate a 13’ Scamp weighing 1,500lbs with a 100lb tongue weight!  It has a 2” drop, but can also be flipped to give a ¾” rise (note: it’s best to go to an automotive shop that uses pneumatic tools to properly torque the nut if it’s flipped).  We started with the 2” drop, but found that the Scamp 13’ was not level with our tow vehicle (slight drop in center, see images) which resulted in the tongue jack plate sometimes scraping driveways and noisy towing (hitch ball rattling).  Once we flipped the hitch, the trailer became level with our tow vehicle resulting in no more scraping and a smoother quieter towing experience!

Having both a capable tow vehicle and hitch set up will mean that you are much less likely to encounter towing problems on the road.  Of course, it’s always important to plug in your trailer to the tow vehicle so your trailer’s lights and emergency brakes are communicating with the tow vehicle (and check the trailer lights before leaving).  In addition, it’s imperative that safety chains be used whenever towing (see images).  Getting the ball on your tow vehicle properly aligned with your trailer coupler takes some practice, but gets easier with experience.  I taped a ribbon on the tow coupler so it hangs straight down – this lets me see the ball hit the ribbon, which indicates just an inch or so more and the tow coupler is right over the ball.  The step of locking the coupler onto the ball is critical.  After locking, I recommend pulling up on the travel trailer coupler a couple times to watch the tow vehicle rear end go up and down to make sure the ball is really securely locked into place in the coupler (none or barely any of the bottom of the ball should be visible if looking at it from the side).  In addition, I recommend using a coupler lock, not only as a theft security device, but also to help prevent the coupler latch from popping open while driving.  I also like to use a hitch lock to securely hold the hitch in place and prevent someone from walking off with it.

The hardest thing about towing a small travel trailer isn’t the towing.  I’ve found the biggest challenge is backing up the small travel trailer so that it goes where you want it to.  In this regard, it’s always good to have a helper if available so they can stand outside the vehicle and direct you (either with walkie talkies, cell phones, or shouting).  Our Scamp 13’ is very responsive when backing up and it takes practice getting comfortable to what type of wheel movements are required to control the trailer.  One trick that really helps when backing up is to hold the steering wheel at the bottom and then turn it in the direction you want the trailer to travel.  Don’t let the trailer go anywhere close to a 90 degree position with the tow vehicle when backing up as this can cause damage.  It’s always better to take your time and straighten out as many times as you need to get your approach angle right.  After a few trips, you will find backing up to be pretty easy.  Note:  I no longer use our trailer dolly in our garage because I’m used to backing our Scamp into the exact position I want in tight spaces (and you will be too after some experience).

In summary, I’m really glad we decided to purchase the Scamp 13’ even though we lacked towing experience and had concerns about the possible challenges of towing.  Ultimately, towing a small travel trailer turns out not to be such a big deal.  Towing your small travel trailer should be easy as long as you are prepared and get the proper tow vehicle and equipment (and follow checklists when leaving).  If you do this, towing your small travel trailer will not be that much more difficult than driving your car.  Initially, it may be stressful, but after towing for a trip or two you will be glad you made the purchase and likely will enjoy your trailer and all the experiences it will offer for many years to come.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Why Motion-Activated Lights May be a Dim Idea

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Why Motion-Activated Lights May be a Dim Idea

Our Scamp travel trailer arrived from the factory with a handful of LED lights (7 x 12 volt LED lights per our custom order), which more than adequately light up the interior of the trailer.  There is a light above the stove, one facing the dinette/bed, one in the bathroom/shower, and two bright reading spot lights over each side of the dinette/bed (there are also two bright outdoor lights – one outside the entry door and one in front of the trailer near the battery).  These lights do a great job of lighting up the inside and outside of the trailer at night.  However, there are no lights in the closets or cupboards and, when it’s dark, and it’s not practical to turn on the interior lights because someone is still sleeping, having good light inside the closets is very beneficial.

We use the front lower closet for storing clothing on the hanger and for our toolbox and other essential camping supplies, like cables and wood blocks (which sit on the floor).  The front upper closet contains our double sleeping bag, pillows, paper products (TP & Paper Towels), and indoor floor mats.  I discovered on our first Scamp trip that these cabinets are very dark inside because they are big and deep.  Without adequate light, it’s often difficult to find items inside these cabinets.  Because we didn’t want to wire new 12 volt lights into the Scamp, we purchased a rechargeable battery powered motion-activated LED light made by Sylvania to try in the lower closet.  Although this light provided plenty of brightness and was nice in that it instantly turned on just by opening the closet door, we found it was quickly running out of power.  We noticed it was frequently turning on by itself inside the closet and we figured this was maybe a defective light.  We replaced the light with a circular battery powered motion-activated light.  This one, powered by AAA batteries, also turned on by itself in the closet (and by the end of just one trip, the AAAs were depleted).  We finally figured out that the slight motion of walking around in the Scamp was activating the motion sensors!

We tested the theory that the motion sensors are too sensitive for use inside our small travel trailer (which tends to slightly move when walking inside) by trying the original Sylvania light again.  But, this time, we used the ON/OFF switch setting and avoided the motion activated feature.  That did the trick!  The light was only on when turned on and the charge held for a very long time!  After learning this lesson, we now use a simple switch-on LED light in the closets.  The VIBELITE is inexpensive (we purchased in a pack of 4), bright, and comes with various mounting methods.  It’s powered by 3 x AAA batteries.  We mounted the lights by using the supplied Velcro adhesive strips on the back of the lights.  Although we have to physically switch the VIBELITE on, we are now assured we will have reliable bright lighting in the Scamp closets on each trip. Phew!

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

One Simple Way to Increase Your Trailer’s Fresh Water Supply by Over 50%!

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One Simple Way to Increase Your Trailer’s Fresh Water Supply by Over 50%!

Most small travel trailers with kitchens/bathrooms usually have small fresh water tanks compared to larger RVs.  The size of the fresh water tank in our Scamp 13’ is 12 gallons and there is also a hot water tank (6 gallons).  So, our Scamp carries about 18 gallons of fresh water when fully loaded.  Since water weighs around 8.3 pounds per gallon at room temperature, filling the Scamp with fresh water adds about 150 pounds.  Interestingly, we’ve compared towing the Scamp with (completely full fresh and hot water tanks) and without water and did not feel any difference in towing or notice any difference in average gas mileage!  Because of this, if we are heading to a location without hookups (even if there are central water spigots available) we will fill up at home (including the hot water heater tank) before heading out.

The first thing to consider when looking at fresh water is how it will be used when you are camping.  Some people use their fresh water tanks for all their needs while camping.  This includes using their sink/s for washing dishes, rinsing food, washing their hands, washing their face, brushing their teeth, and even drinking; in addition, they will use their shower.  In big RVs with 60 gallon tanks and larger, this may seem reasonable (with the possible exception of drinking).  However, in small travel trailers, one has to be especially mindful of water usage when camping without hookups due to limited water in the tank.  Note:  if there are hookups at the campground, then careful water conservation is not really an issue (except for maybe environmental concerns).

After using our Scamp 13’ (with kitchen sink, bathroom, and shower) for around a year in a combination of boondocking and hookup locations, we now have a good understanding of what the trailer’s water and tank limits are with how we use it.  If we are careful, we can go about 3 days without having to refill our Fresh tank (this is also about the same amount of time that it takes our Grey tank, 21 gallons, to get filled).  This includes 2 people, each taking a shower every day (shower turned on to get wet, turned off while shampooing and lathering, and turned back on to rinse – aka, Navy shower).  We also use our sink to quickly rinse our plates once or twice a day (depending on meals).  One thing we don’t use our water for is drinking (or water for cooking pasta).  Most of the water we use goes down the shower drain into the Grey water tank.  We know some campers who are able to go at least double our time (maybe even around a week) without refilling water because instead of showering daily, they may shower much less frequently or take wipes and avoid the shower altogether!  In our case, we pretty much like to maintain the same type of cleaning rituals that we practice at home.

The key way in which we effectively increase our Scamp’s fresh water supply by over 50% is by carrying our drinking water with us in jugs in our tow vehicle!  We always bring two 4 gallon BPA-free water jugs in the back of our SUV for all our drinking and cooking needs when we go on a typical 10 day trip in our Scamp.  By carrying an additional 8 gallons of fresh water in our tow vehicle, we are effectively increasing our Fresh water tank supply by 67% (12 gallons Fresh > 20 gallons)!!!  This gives us a lot more fresh water supply.  Health experts typically recommend a person drink eight 8-ounce glasses of water per day (8×8 rule), which is about ½ gallon of water per person per day.  So, by using this rule, two people would bring 10 gallons of water on their 10 day trip (1/2 gallon/day x 2 people x 10 days).  We tend to drink slightly less water than this amount because we also drink macadamia milk in our cereal, oat milk in our tea, sometimes soup for lunch, and we eat a lot of juicy fruits (like oranges).  So, for us, bringing 8 gallons of fresh water on a 10 day trip works out great (we always have extra water when we return home).

In addition to greatly expanding our small travel trailer’s fresh water supply by carrying our own fresh water in BPA-free jugs, we also feel more comfortable drinking the water.  Although drinking RV tap water can be safe, that safety is largely dependent on the trailer’s tank and water system having been properly sanitized (see this article on how to sanitize your fresh water tank).  In addition, contaminants can possibly enter the trailer when hooked up at a campsite (either through contamination by the hose, spigot, or the water itself).  Using a water filter can help reduce some risk, but may not entirely defeat it.  Note: water hoses used at campsites should be rated as non-toxic for drinking.  We have always used our sink water for brushing our teeth and have not had any issues (but we do not drink this water – just rinse, and spit out).

There are many potential sources for fresh water if you choose to carry the water in a BPA-free water jug.  Bottled water is perhaps the easiest way to take water on your trip.  It can either be purchased directly at the market, or, there are often inexpensive water machines in front of markets that allow you to fill your own jugs.  Many different types of water are sold, such as alkaline and chemically treated water.  We have a filter water purification system in our home and use that to fill our 4 gallon jugs.  Whatever water and method you use to fill your jugs, you will ultimately greatly expand the amount of fresh water capacity available for your small travel trailer and likely improve the quality of your water by carrying your fresh drinking water separately in your tow vehicle!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.