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It’s Hip to be Square

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It’s Hip to be Square

Sometimes a shape is very important.  This certainly can be the case when packing your small travel trailer refrigerator.  Small items tend shift when travelling down the road and the problem can be especially bad when items are cylindrical (like water bottles) and can roll around.  If the refrigerator isn’t completely packed, a loose water bottle can crash into other items, possibly damaging them in transit.  Additionally, a heavy item that is rolling around inside the refrigerator could potentially leak and create a big mess.

On our first few Scamp trips, we secured water bottles in the refrigerator with Velcro straps.  This method worked ok but made it a nuisance to quickly remove the water bottles.  We noticed that items that were in square boxes (like soup) didn’t move around much during trips.  So, we replaced our water bottles with one square water bottle that we refill with pure water when it is low (we carry two 4 gallon drinking water safe water jugs in our SUV which we fill with our reverse osmosis water system at home before we leave on a trip).  The square water bottle works great and tends to say in its place in the refrigerator without using straps!

Now, we try to choose square containers for anything that will need to be refrigerated, if possible. Since we like pancakes on Sunday mornings, we found a great brand of pure premium maple syrup (Parker’s) that we intend to refill with our favorite pure maple syrup when it runs out.  We took Parker’s maple syrup up to Mammoth Lakes on our last trip and it held its position in the fridge well!  Other items packaged in square containers that we enjoy and take in our Scamp’s refrigerator are Macadamia Milk and boxed soup.

Lots of other food items can either be found in square packaging or packed in square containers.  For example, fruits like grapes are nicely stored in sealed containers.  The bottom line is to avoid putting heavy cylindrical objects like bottled water or soda cans in your small travel trailer’s refrigerator when travelling because they can cause issues.  Instead, be aware, that it’s hip to be square!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Save Time & Money with a Home Dump!

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Save Time & Money with a Home Dump!

One of the biggest concerns of small travel trailer campers is the status of their Fresh, Grey, and Black water tank levels and the necessity to Dump the tanks before it’s too late.  A small travel trailer with sink, bathroom and shower generally has four tanks [e.g. Fresh tank to hold fresh water, Hot Water tank (usually fed from the Fresh tank), Grey tank (the water that is drained from the sink and shower), and Black tank (holds what is flushed down toilet)].  Our 13’ Scamp travel trailer with bathroom has a 12 gallon Fresh tank, 6 gallon Hot Water tank, 21 gallon Grey tank, and 9 gallon Black tank.

It’s important to monitor tank levels so you don’t run out of water or, possibly worse, have dirty or hazardous water / waste back up into your trailer!  Most campers get an idea fairly quickly how long they can go without dumping their tanks.  When we purchased our Scamp travel trailer, we had a tank monitor sent directly to the factory and had them integrate it into our Scamp when completing our custom build.  We use the SeeLevel II tank monitoring system (we purchased ours on RVupgrades.com because the price was much lower than on Amazon).   This monitor allows one to see the levels of all the tanks as well as the travel trailer voltage (which you want to make sure doesn’t go much lower than 12 volts – around 50% charge).  We rely on the monitor religiously to make sure we are keeping our tanks and voltage at the correct levels.

We have found that with two people each taking a fast shower every day, regularly using the Scamp bathroom, and using the sink sparingly (using paper plates or washing dishes outside if allowed), we need to Dump on about day 3.  If we are at a campsite with full hookups, then it’s no big deal.  However, if we need to move the trailer to Dump, then we try to be very careful in how we use our water so the need to Dump is less frequent.  The Achilles heel for us is the Grey tank which fills up after a couple of days (primarily due to showers).  The Black (toilet) tank usually doesn’t need to be refilled until day 5.  And the Fresh tank is generally not an issue since there usually is a spigot or water hose wherever we camp (even at areas with no hookups).  So, at campsites without hookups, we either have to use a shared Dump in the campground on day 3 if we are staying more than a couple of days or drive to a Dump.  For the future, we are considering using an outdoor shower to extend our time between Dumps since it’s the Grey tank filled quickly by showers which greatly limits our time between Dumps.

A home Dump is similar to the Dump hookup used to dump the Black and Grey tanks at the campsite.  The home Dump just utilizes the sewer cleanouts (for use by plumbers when they need to clear a clog inside the main sewer pipe going from the home to the City sewer system).  This pipe is the conduit which takes all the material flushed down the toilets in the home to the City sewer system.  The sewer cleanout covers can typically be found somewhere in the front of the home.  Our cleanout covers are located in our garage.  There are two covers which both go into the same sewer pipe, but each hole directs the plumber’s auger in a different direction (the cover closest to the road on ours directs the auger toward the house and the cover closest to the house directs the auger toward the street).  It really doesn’t matter which cleanout you use to Dump because material dumped from your trailer will go down into the sewer line either way.

A home Dump is fantastic if feasible and allowed by local laws.  It’s especially useful when arriving home after staying at a campsite with no Dump, or where the Dump had a long wait or wasn’t easily available, or was a bit too expensive (we’ve paid as low as $7.50 to Dump at a Valero station in Santa Barbara up to $15 to Dump at a private location in Mammoth Lakes).  In our area, the closest Dump is about 30 minutes’ drive away!  The home Dump also makes it possible for us to test our systems (shower, sink, toilet), sanitize and flush these systems with Happy Campers, and sanitize and flush our Fresh and Hot Water tanks.  It would be much less convenient and more expensive to do these tasks away from home.

We were very fortunate in that our sewer cleanout access areas happened to be located right in front of where our Scamp travel trailer sits in our garage!  In order to utilize them, we just had to have our plumber cut a few inches of the pipe down into the hole so an enlarged PVC cleanout adapter (available at Home Depot) could be attached to easily accommodate our 3” RV sewer hose with the cement cover still able to sit on top when not in use.

When searching for your cleanout, keep in mind that there is usually a cover (cement) that says “sewer” on it.  The cleanout is likely to be outside your home between the foundation and the street or could be on the side of your home (closest to the bathroom).  Hopefully, it will be located in an area that is convenient for you to place your travel trailer within 6 feet of the opening. It’s also best if the cleanout is either level or below your travel trailer so gravity allows the material being dumped to easily drain into the cleanout.  The cleanout pipe is usually 4 inches in diameter with a screw cap that has a square knob or indentation on the top.  Please let me know if this works for you!

Cleanliness is next to godliness!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Using a Trailer Dolly to move your Trailer without a Tow Vehicle!

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Using a Trailer Dolly to move your Trailer without a Tow Vehicle!

A trailer dolly is a great product for moving small trailers (less than 3000 pounds and tongue weight less than 600 pounds) around on flat level surfaces if one has a moderate level of physical strength or help from other people.

Just before taking delivery of our 13’ Scamp travel trailer, we ordered an Aquacart trailer dolly which was advertised as being able to easily move trailers.  I had envisioned I could use this dolly to pull our 13’ Scamp travel trailer up our driveway and then perfectly position it in our garage.

The Aquacart is extremely well made – 2” welded aircraft quality aluminum with big 13” wheelbarrow tires (and weighs 25 pounds).  Indeed, this dolly is very sturdy.  It feels like it was over engineered to carry large loads.  It seems to be the Rolls Royce of trailer dollies.  It’s big though, and unless you have an SUV with fold down seats or a truck, it may be difficult to take on trips.  The wheels, however, can be removed as they have clips.  We did take it on our first trip and used it to pull our Scamp travel trailer into our campsite (since we had no experience backing up our travel trailer).  Since our first trip though, we haven’t taken the dolly on trips because we are now better at backing up our Scamp, it mostly hasn’t been necessary because most spots are easy to back into (although we could have used it getting into my cousin’s driveway on a narrow street), and the Aquacart takes up some space in our SUV.

When our 13’ Scamp travel trailer was delivered on the street in front of our house last November, we found out that unless the surface is flat and level it can take a lot of muscle to move around a 1500 – 2000 pound travel trailer!  It took three people to pull the Scamp up our driveway!  In retrospect, I don’t think I would do that again because it could potentially be dangerous if someone lost their grip and the trailer couldn’t be stopped from rolling.  A runaway trailer is not a good thing!

Aquacart recommends keeping the dolly’s tires well inflated to make it easier to move trailers around.  The dolly comes with a 1-7/8” universal ball which we easily swapped out for a 2” ball which is compatible with our Scamp travel trailer hitch.

We now use the Aquacart trailer dolly regularly to move our Scamp around in our garage to place it in perfect position after we back the Scamp into the garage.  It’s much easier to back the Scamp in the general area in the garage and use the dolly to position it than to try to back it just perfectly into its spot.  We’ve tried the latter approach and it can be very time consuming.  We highly recommend the Aquacart dolly for this purpose and all other jobs when moving around a small travel trailer on flat level surfaces.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

Stop Cranking Your Arm and Replace Your Manual Tongue Jack!

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Stop Cranking Your Arm and Replace Your Manual Tongue Jack!

One of the first few things we replaced on our Scamp travel trailer was our hand crank tongue jack.  The tongue jack sits on the front of the trailer and allows one to raise and lower the ball coupler so the trailer can be attached to the tow vehicle.  It didn’t take too long to understand how much cranking is required when hitching and unhitching the Scamp travel trailer!  Not only can cranking over and over be repetitively hard on your arm, shoulder and joints, but it takes a lot of time and energy.  It’s also the time when you want to be concentrating on other parts of the process and cranking the jack up and down can be distracting.

Our process typically works as follows:  once the rear stabilizing jacks on the Scamp trailer have been raised, I crank up the front of the trailer, so that the ball receptacle is higher than the ball on our SUV.  I then back up our SUV so that the ball is aligned with the receptacle.  Sometimes, I have to get out of the SUV and crank up the tongue a little more to make sure it clears above the ball.  Then, I back up the SUV so the ball is directly under the ball receptacle on the trailer.  Then, once the alignment is perfect, I crank down the trailer tongue until the ball receptacle goes down completely over the ball and the coupler latch can be completely locked into place.  When arriving at the campsite, after securing the trailer with wheel chocks, I unlock the couple latch and detach all cables connected to the SUV, and then start cranking again to raise the front of the trailer until there is plenty of room for the ball on the SUV to clear when the SUV is driven forward.  When the SUV is driven forward and away from the trailer, the trailer again needs to be cranked (usually down) until the trailer is level.  And, all of the above cranking processes are to be repeated when leaving the campsite and arriving back at home!

It didn’t take too long for us to realize that all the manual cranking wasn’t a fun way to enjoy our Scamp trips!  Fortunately, changing the tongue jack is super simple!  And, electric tongue jacks are easy to install and not too expensive!  The Scamp travel trailer has just three bolts – so, it’s just a matter of securing the Scamp onto the SUV (like you are going on a trip), raising the manual jack all the way up, removing the bottom plate on the jack, unscrewing the three screws that attach the jack to the trailer, and lifting the entire assembly up and out of the jack shaft.  It’s important to make sure that whatever electric tongue jack your order has the same screw hole pattern as your original screw hole pattern so that when you lower the jack into place, the screw holes match.  Then, it’s just a matter of screwing down the jack into position and connecting the power cord to the battery (and possibly a ground wire).  Be careful in that often Black is positive for DC power jack arrangements (and White negative) – so, it’s important to check your manual to make sure the correct color is attached to the positive battery terminal and perhaps negative terminal if required.

We ordered the Barker 32454 VIP 3500 Power Jack for our Scamp travel trailer and have been extremely satisfied with the jack and the company.  This is one of the pricier power jacks, but we feel the quality is worth it and have had really good interactions with customer service when we initially had questions.  The jack has performed really well and is fast and quiet.  We have never had an issue with it, using it regularly for almost a year.  The jack is grounded by the trailer itself by the screw plate, so only one positive wire goes to the battery.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

I also had the opportunity to install a much less expensive jack for my friend Dana who has a 16’ Scamp.  She chose the Weize Power Jack, which is also a 3500 lb. jack and meant for A-frame trailers like the Scamp.  Installation was very similar to the Barker, except there were two connector wires.   Dana reports that she has been very satisfied with this jack.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Both Barker and Weize power jacks have a manual bar which can crank the jack in case the trailer battery is depleted.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Drain and Clean Your Tanks Regularly To Avoid Algae, Bacteria and other Bad Guys

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Drain and Clean Your Tanks Regularly To Avoid Algae, Bacteria and other Bad Guys

Algae, bacteria, and other harmful microorganisms can grow in your trailer’s Fresh and Grey tanks as well as other parts of the water system such as the pipes, hoses and water heater.  It may be possible to see the algae or it might just be that your water has a funny smell.  If you regularly are using a product to clean the Black and Grey tanks (after each trip) then it’s not likely there will be issues in these tanks.

Algae like to grow in a moist warm environment which is often the situation with the trailer’s tanks, water heater tank, and pipes.  Algae and other microorganisms have the potential for not only making the trailer water smell funny and clogging up water lines, but also could be dangerous to one’s health.  Personally, we only drink water that we bring from home that is produced in our reverse osmosis system and stored in 4 gallon BPA free plastic jugs.  But, even showering and washing dishes and hands with contaminated water could be potentially dangerous (e.g. skin, stomach, and lung issues).

Using a water filter before water enters your trailer is a must.  Additionally, the first thing to do when you get home from a trip is to drain all your tanks to eliminate the potential growing environment for the algae (this should include draining your hot water heater tank if the trailer will be stored more than a couple of weeks).  Draining the Fresh, Grey, Black, and Hot Water Heater tanks is easy and should be something you do after each trip so your trailer is ready to go for your next adventure.  When we get home, we usually park our Scamp in front of our house on the street so we can wash it before putting it back in the garage.  We open up the Fresh tank value located under the passenger side dinette seat so that the remaining Fresh water drains out on the road.  Once fully drained, we close the valve.  We also open the Hot Water Heater tank plug on the outside of the Scamp (open metal service access door on driver’s side) and let the tank drain as well (before opening, water should be cold and pressure released by turning on hot water tap at sink with on demand pump off).  On our Scamp’s Suburban hot water heater, a 1 1/16” socket is needed to unscrew the hexagonal bolt which is not only the plug to the hot water heater but also the Anode Rod (see image).  After washing the trailer and bringing it into the garage, we then drain our Black and Grey tanks using the sewer clean out drain in the garage.

It’s a good idea to sanitize your trailer water system once every six months and change your external water filter at the same time (or at least once per season or earlier if you notice decreased water flow).

Supplies:

RV Fresh Water System Sanitizing Instructions (Frequency = every 6 months)

  1. Make sure water heater is off and the circuit breaker to it is off.  Also, make sure the hot water heater switches are all off (electric and gas) and the gas LP valves are also off.
  2. Fill your Scamp Fresh tank so it is ½ full.
  3. Wearing gloves / protective eyewear and using a funnel  and plastic hose tube, pour ¼ cup of household bleach (e.g. Clorox) into your ½ full Fresh tank (or whatever ratio is recommended by your trailer manufacturer) (never pour full strength bleach into an empty tank).
  4. Add fresh water to your Fresh tank until it is full.
  5. Turn on 12V On Demand Water Pump.
  6. Run each tap one by one (sink hot water, sink cold water, shower hot/cold) until you smell the bleach and then let the tap run a few more seconds and then turn off.
  7. Fill Fresh water tank again to 100%.
  8. Turn off 12V On Demand Water Pump.
  9. Let sit overnight.
  10. Drain the Fresh and Hot Water Heater tanks.
    1. On the Scamp 13’, remove the passenger side dinette seat cushion and access the panel underneath. Open the drain valve 180 degrees and the Fresh water will drain on the ground below.
    2. Release water pressure in system by opening kitchen sink hot and cold faucets with demand pump off until water trickles.
    3. On our Scamp 13’, the hot water heater service access panel is at the driver’s side rear of trailer. The plug/anode is at the bottom of the heater.  Use socket wrench (our Suburban hot water heater plug needs a 1- 1/16” or 27mm socket) to unscrew plug (which also has a long metal anode rod).  You may have to pull the plug bolt head with some pressure if the rod gives resistance.  Water will drain out once the plug/rod is removed (so move trailer onto the street or location where water draining isn’t an issue).  This is the time to inspect the Anode rod.  If it looks very eaten up or is 75% consumed replace it when this process is complete.*  See instructions at bottom.
    4. If you have a Hot Water Heater tank rinser, now’s a good time to pressure wash the inside of the Hot Water Heater tank to remove any leftover sediment. We use this one.
    5. Tighten the Dummy Plug (old Anode rod with wire clipped off so just plug remains), Existing Plug, or New Plug onto the Hot Water Tank so it is sealed.
  11. Fill Fresh tank and open hot water tap until water flows (so hot water tank is full).
  12. Run each tap (sink hot, sink cold, shower hot/cold) until there is no bleach / chlorine smell.
  13. If bleach smell persists, drain Fresh tank and water heater again using their drain valves and refill with Fresh water.
  14. Once smell is gone, drain the Fresh tank and Hot Water Tank again and let sit dry until next trip.
  15. Now firmly secure the Anode rod in with Teflon tape and socket wrench.
  16. Turn off 12V On Demand Pump.
  17. Replace external water filter with new one.

*Replacing the Anode rod (Frequency = every 12 months under hard water usage or when 75% consumed):  Take a wire brush to the clean drain port threads to remove sediment and any leftover Teflon tape on the threads.  Next, apply mineral oil on a cloth to the clean threads to prevent corrosion and assist in installing the new Anode rod.  Wrap Teflon seal tape on threads of new Anode rod, leaving the first few threads exposed so you can screw in plug by hand.  Screw in new Anode rod clockwise by hand to make sure it’s threaded correctly and then use socket wrench until it is firmly tight (do not over tighten to avoid stripping the threads).  Note:  the anode rod does not and will not need to go all the way in.  The anode just needs to be tightened enough to be water tight.  Tighten snug and do not crank down beyond this or damage to the threads or tank could occur.  If it leaks, tighten a little bit more if possible.

We order this 3 pack of Anode rods for our Suburban hot water heater, and it comes with Teflon seal tape:

(3 Pack) Suburban RV Anode Rod Replacement Part 232767

Why is the Anode rod so important?  The Anode rod is able to help keep the Hot Water Tank from rusting by promoting a chemical reaction called electrolysis.  The process makes the Anode rod corrode in place of the exposed steel in your water heater which can lead to leaks.

RV Grey & Black Water System Sanitizing Instructions (Frequency =  every or every other trip)

We use Happy Campers Organic RV Holding Tank Treatment for the Grey and Black Water (toilet) tanks.

First, we dump our tanks.  Then, we fill jug with 1 scoop of Happy Camper with 1 gallon of water and mix and pour into the toilet and then flush the toilet immediately (Black tank).  Then, we pour two more gallons of fresh water into the toilet and flush.  We do the same for the sink (Grey tank).  We let the tanks sit for a week, allowing Happy Campers to sanitize the tanks, and then dump the tanks.  Works great!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

UnderGlow Your Travel Trailer!

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UnderGlow Your Travel Trailer!

One of the coolest purely unnecessary things we’ve done to our Scamp has been to add an underglow LED lighting kit!  It’s not necessary, but almost essential!

We installed the kit by MicTuning 4 POD RGBW LED Rock Light kit which has 4 LED pods.  Given the small size of the Scamp trailer (13’), we’ve found that 4 LED PODS are enough to underlight the entire trailer.  There are kits with more lights for larger trailers / vehicles, but this kit will work well for small trailers.

The kit comes with all the lights and cables necessary.  All that needs to be done is to attach cables to the trailer battery, test the system by installing the MicTuning phone app, and then mount the LED pods and cabling on the trailer frame.  Our friend Jon has a 3D printer and made some custom mounts that we glued strong rare earth magnets into, allowing the mounts to magnetically attach to the trailer frame.  He also made some magnetic brackets to hold the cables against the trailer frame.  As a precaution, we also secured the cable with Gorilla tape in select areas just in case a magnetic mount fails.  We’ve driven with the magnetic mounts over 2,000 miles to date and they haven’t detached or moved from their position on the trailer.  The kit does come with standard mounts and these should be satisfactory for mounting the PODS.  Or, other custom methods could be used to secure the LED PODS on the trailer.

The Scamp trailer in itself looks futuristic, with its all-white glossy finish and egg shape (along with the HD antenna on the roof).  However, lighting up the underside at night makes the Scamp look like a spaceship!  People really notice it, and often oohs and aahs can be heard at the campsite!  With the Bluetooth MicTuning app, the color of the lighting can be easily changed with just a tap on your phone screen.  There is even a music mode that will strobe the lights in sync with the music playing on your phone!  We’ve used these lights various times. On our first trip to Anza-Borrego State Park, it was so dark at night that it was really hard to find one’s way back to their trailer after dinner.  Having the lights on made our Scamp easy to find and weren’t offensive since they glow down toward the ground.  Be aware that one should not drive with the lights on as they could be distracting to other drivers and it is likely illegal in most, if not all, areas.

At a low cost and a high Wow! Factor, we highly recommend these LED ROCK lights!  Light kit, liked it!

Buy Here On Amazon

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

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Use Checklists to Prevent Problems

There are enough details in taking out your small travel trailer that, unless you use checklists, you will inevitably have problems.  The veteran campers we’ve talked with invariably insist on using checklists.  Checklists help you avoid major issues such as driving off with underinflated tires, stabilizer bars still on ground, the hitch coupler not properly attached to the ball, etc. ……..  Pilots use checklists all the time because of the high number of critical systems.  In addition to a prelaunch checklist, maintaining separate checklists for other things [such as trip supplies and how to operate various utilities on your trailer] provide additional benefits.  We created a supply checklist after our last trip to Mammoth Lakes, where we really needed our solar panel, but it was inadvertently left in our garage!

You can create a checklist using just a pencil and paper if you want or on your computer using a word processing program.  We use a free app called Color Checklist which is on the Google Play store.  It’s nice in that you can keep it on your phone and it actually has check boxes and check marks!  It’s important that you can have the checklist in hand wherever you are.  Here’s our main checklist which we use whenever we are going to depart from home or the campground:

Scamp check list for Leaving site (opposite when arriving)

  • Fuel SUV to FULL TANK
  • Add Fresh water if going to non-hookup site or 50% if just wanting to use water on drive
  • Dump Black & Grey tanks
  • Remove tire boot lock, coupler lock, hitch lock, and tire leveler wedge
  • Raise stabilizer bars.
  • Trailer tires psi 48  / Volvo SUV @ 40 psi
  • Attach X cross safety chains
  • Attach wiring harness
  • Raise center Jack to Clear ball and lower on ball
  • Lower and lock coupler on ball
  • Close LP (liquid propane) tanks
  • All switches off
  • Close / latch windows
  • Secure power cord outside outlet cover
  • If you have 54″ bed,  put additional table support on floor
  • Close fan
  • Turn off water heater breaker, 110v Water Heater switch.  Make sure switches are off – Gas Water heater water switch and demand pump for Fresh Tank.
  • Check laundry line is inside trailer.
  • Check trailer lights
  • Refrigerator on 12V for driving (120V or LP at campsite with no hookups).
  • Lock Scamp door
  • Disconnect wiring harness from SUV when not driving to prevent car battery drain.
  • Check Scamp voltage when SUV hooked up and running – should be over 12.5V.
  • [When storing after trip, drain Fresh tank by opening valve under dinette seat – water will drain under trailer, drain Hot Water Heater tank (plug on outside of trailer under metal cover), and dump Black and Grey tanks.]

Here is our Scamp Supply Checklist  (note:  we leave many items in the Scamp such as plates, cups, and utensils so we don’t need to pack them every trip):

  • Food & water
  • Empty Water Jug / Dolly
  • Down jackets
  • Hiking Boots
  • Hats & Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Umbrella
  • Foam mattress topper
  • Outdoor floor mat
  • Solar panel (when applicable)
  • Shower & kitchen towels
  • TP & paper towels
  • Pots & pans with lids
  • Measuring cup and strainer
  • Pancake mix and maple syrup
  • Chocolate
  • Jackery 500 generator (for powering battery devices)
  • Camera and drone
  • Broom
  • Lawn chairs
  • Rain gear
  • Wet vac
  • Kayak (when applicable)
  • Campground surge protector
  • Scamp water supplies (e.g. hose, pressure regulator, water filter, 90 degree brass fitting)
  • Rubber gloves (for dump)
  • Toilet sanitizers
  • Hand sanitizers

Our additional checklists for operating the Scamp water pump, water heater, furnace, and refrigerator.  The procedures on these lists could vary since various model utilities are used in Scamp production.

Scamp On Demand Water Pump Checklist (used when not attached to City Water to pressurize system)

  • Make sure Fresh water tank is full before turning on
  • Only use when not attached to City water
  • Turn switch off when not in Scamp or Fresh tank is near empty (then fill tank before using water)

Scamp Water Heater Checklist (auto start)

  • Runs on 120V or LP
  • Hook up to City Water (or Fresh water see below)
  • Turn on hot water at faucet
  • When water comes out at sink, hot water heater is full with water (important to fill so water heater tank doesn’t burn)
  • If City water is not available, fill Fresh water tank, turn on demand pump, turn on hot water at sink until water comes out
  • For electric operation, turn on 120V breaker and then turn on 120V Water heater switch
  • For LP operation, open LP tank and then turn ON small rocker switch (down on our model) and light will momentarily come on.  No temperature controls.  (Uses electricity to start automatically)
  • Water heater can be left on until leaving camp (although we shut ours off at night after showers)

Scamp Furnace Checklist (auto start)

  • Uses both electric to start and run fan and LP to operate
  • Turn LP tank on, Turn on Furnace switch
  • Set thermostat to desired temp
  • Fan will start, Igniter will click
  • Furnace will light
  • Turn off LP tank if there is a sulfur smell
  • Turn on stove using lighter and run several minutes to bleed lines if Furnace doesn’t start

Scamp Refrigerator Checklist

  • 3 Way model — 120V, 12V, LP
  • Open outside vent to select power source (lower front panel on our Scamp 13′)
  • Three switches (Green 120V, Red 12V, Knob is LP) — ONLY ONE POWER SOURCE AT ONE TIME!
  • For driving — use the 12V Red switch
  • For hookup camping — use the 120V Green switch
  • For dry camping with no hookups — use the Knob for LP
    • Open LP tank valve first
    • Set gas thermostat to high on wheel>depress wheel knob>push red igniter button repeatedly and quickly multiple times while holding down wheel knob.  Keep knob depressed for 15 seconds.  Check to see pilot flame.  High setting is coolest.  If having trouble lighting, turn off knob and run stove burners in kitchen for a couple minutes to bleed gas line and then try again.
    • Set thermostat to 4 or 5 or higher if opening door frequently.

      Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

       

Our Best Travel Trailer Modification

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Our Best Travel Trailer Modification

One of the most important assets of a travel trailer is the ability to get a good night’s sleep wherever you are.  Unfortunately, our brand new 2020 Scamp 13’ (with big bed and bathroom) failed for me in this regard.  I found the cushions so hard that I was constantly waking up during the night on our first trip.

The first thing I did when we got home was do some online research.  I quickly found this to be a common issue among Scamp owners with various solutions posted.  Some recommended just putting a foam mattress topper on top of the cushions.  So, I ordered a 2 inch topper to see how that would help.

When the topper arrived, I pulled the cushions out of the Scamp and laid them on our living room floor.  Then, I put the new 2” foam topper on the cushions.  The cushions still failed to be comfortable, even with the topper.  It felt like the foam was compressing and I could still feel the hard surface of the cushions.

Other Scamp owners talked about making new cushions from scratch with soft foam inserts.  Since we don’t own a sewing machine or specialize in this type of skill; we opted instead to bring the Scamp cushions into a local upholstery shop.  The upholstery guy felt the cushions, shook his head and laughed.  He said this foam is a “#40” in firmness a “#28”would be much better for sleeping.  We told him we wanted to use the existing cushions as a template, but use entirely new foam and coverings.  In addition to wanting a softer cushion that is easy to sleep on, we also wanted a material that is easy to clean.  The original Scamp cushions are covered in fabric.  We chose a faux “leather” material made from vinyl called Pebble Dark Stone (PEB250).

The total price for all new cushions was $1,028:  new foam $319, the new faux “leather” material $350, and $359 for labor.   Note:  our Scamp has the larger 54” bed, so more material was necessary compared to the smaller standard bed.  After a couple of weeks, our new cushions were ready.  We bagged the original Scamp cushions and have stored them in our attic in case we ever sell the Scamp and someone wants the originals.

We have found the new cushions to be extremely comfortable.  We no longer need the 2” foam mattress topper and not having to carry the bulky topper rolled up in our tow vehicle saves space (and we don’t need to transfer the topper back and forth from the tow vehicle to the Scamp every morning and night).  Since replacing the cushions, we have experienced a much better night’s sleep!  In addition, we’ve found that the vinyl covering makes it easier to maneuver the cushions when setting up and taking down the bed every day since the material is somewhat slippery.  Lastly, we’ve found the faux “leather” to be very easy to clean as it is a smooth non fabric surface.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

 

Secure Your Power Cords To Prevent Damage

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Secure Your Power Cords To Prevent Damage

It’s very important to secure your power cords to prevent them from dropping and hitting the road.  There are two power cords on a Scamp.  One allows the Scamp to plug from the front of the trailer into the back of the car to provide 12 Volt power from the tow vehicle to the Scamp while driving.  This is useful for powering the 12 Volt refrigerator while driving.  The other cable is located at the back of the Scamp and is the charging cable.  If either cable drops while you are driving, it’s very likely that the head of the cable will get damaged as it bounces off the concrete.  Additionally, the cord could potentially hit your trailer, car and/or another car causing additional damage.

Unbeknownst to us, our Scamp has a plastic cover that snaps closed with a firm push to hold the power cord in the Scamp.  On our first few trips, I just pushed the cover closed (but not snapped down) and everything seemed to work fine.  On our way back home from Lake Tahoe, we noticed people in cars adjacent to ours on the freeway pointing to the back of our Scamp.  It’s always disconcerting when you see people with concerned expressions pointing to your trailer!  All sorts of thoughts come racing to mind.

When I looked in the rear view mirror, I saw the Scamp power cable bouncing off the road.  I quickly pulled over and put the cord back into its holder and then used tape to secure the hatch.  Fortunately, we caught it quickly and the plug on the cord only had minor scrapes and it was still functional.  I called Scamp later and they told me to make sure to “snap” the cover into place!

A couple weeks later, our friend Dana told us about her issue.  In her case, the front cable, which connects the Scamp to the tow vehicle (in order to power the brake lights, flashers, and auxiliary 12V power), came lose while driving.  Unfortunately, the cable was damaged beyond use by scraping against the road.  She is going to look into either replacing the entire cable or perhaps just the plug.

I’ve added checking the snap on cover to the power cord on our trip checklist to make sure this never happens again!  Additionally, we will also check to make sure the cable that plugs into the car is firmly seated and providing ample power to the Scamp (using Voltmeter installed in Scamp).  When the car is running, the Scamp generally shows over 13.5 Volts when plugged into the vehicle.

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Protecting Yourself and Your RV From City Water

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Protecting Yourself and Your RV From City Water

There are several essential items you will want regarding your City water supply.  If you just hook up any hose to the City water connection at the campground and attach it to your trailer you could have serious issues.  Among these are:

  1. contaminated water from a dirty hose,
  2. chemicals in the water from using a non BPA free hose,
  3. particles and debris entering your trailers pipes / screens / pumps,
  4. excessive high pressure from the City water potentially damaging the trailer’s pipes,
  5. damage to your City water connection attachment from the weight of the hose / filter

Using the following essential products will greatly reduce the risk of a problem caused by the City water supply and enhance your enjoyment while camping.

Camco (40055) RV Brass Inline Water Pressure Regulator:  This device should be the first thing to be attached to the city water spigot.  It will limit the pressure to acceptable levels so your RV pipes don’t burst from excessive water pressure.  Additionally, it is brass so it is lead free and safe.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco (22783) 25ft TastePURE Drinking Water Hose – Lead and BPA Free:  RV City water hoses should be white, and lead and BPA free to ensure your trailer sink and shower water is safe to use.  I’ve found the 25’ length to be a good size.  The hose may also be used to fill your Fresh tank when not connected to City Water.  You want to make sure you use your own hose to fill your trailer with water because public hoses at campgrounds may have been used to clean septic systems and, in turn, may be contaminated.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco 40045 TastePURE Inline RV Water Filter:  Your white hose should be screwed into a water filter so that contaminants and sediment will be prevented from entering your trailer’s water system.  The filter may also reduce chlorine and odors from the water.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Brass 90° Lead-Free Hose Saver:  This clever brass right angle device attaches to your trailer’s city water port and allows your water filter to attach hanging down so that less weight hangs from the port.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Another great option is Camco 40043 TastePure RV/Marine Water Filter with Flexible Hose Protector:

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco Water Tank Filler with Shutoff Valve:  This little spout can be attached directly to the white water hose to make filling the Fresh water tank on the trailer much easier.  It can also be attached to a Water Bandit* on a water jug spout.  It has a valve so you can easily turn off the hose water without being next to the spigot.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Camco (22484) *Water Bandit:  This is a cool little product that allows you to connect a hose or water filler to a water spigot without threads (or one with stripped threads).  It probably doesn’t support a lot of pressure, but is a nice small tool to carry just in case.  I use it to attach to a jug spout to fill the Fresh water on our Scamp.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Ozark Trail Desert Patrol 6-Gal Water Jug:  This water jug is BPA free and does a great job of holding water to fill up the Fresh water tank at campgrounds not equipped with direct hookups.  Simply take the jug over to the nearest water spigot and fill it up.  I always take a collapsible dolly as well since water weighs about 8 pounds per gallon – meaning this jug will weigh almost 50 pounds when full.  I recommend using the Water Bandit on the included spout and have someone help in lifting the jug to fill the Fresh tank.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON WALMART

Vergo Industrial 275 lbs Capacity Folding Hand Truck Dolly (Model S300BT):  This dolly easily fits in the car and is great for moving heavy water jugs.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ON AMAZON

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.