Monthly Archives :

January 2021

How a Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount Can Change Your Travel Trailer World

 150 150 gavin
By:
0

How a Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount Can Change Your Travel Trailer World

Like most small travel trailers, our Scamp 13’ came with an old fashioned plastic wall mounted shower controller with two clear plastic knobs (the left one labeled H for Hot and right one labeled C for Cold).  To get the right mix of hot and cold water to avoid freezing or scalding, a delicate approach of rotating each of the knobs just the right amount is needed.  We quickly found out on our Scamp 13’ that this was easier said than done!  It usually took some fiddling and a bit of wasted water (and some uncomfortable freezing and scalding water sprays) to get a comfortably heated stream.  And, with multiple people showering, it usually meant leaving the shower on at this setting (with the shower head controller in the position to stop the flow) so that the next person could just jump in without having to repeat the process of temperature mixing (although a trickle would still run from the showerhead in this position).

After several camping trips in our Scamp dealing with this shower conundrum, I decided to do a little research to see if there might be a solution.  The first thing I did was called Scamp to see if the hot water heater temperature could be adjusted lower (since one of the biggest issues was scalding water).  I was told this is not possible.  I later found out that most travel trailer water heater thermostats are preset at the factory and cannot be adjusted!  And, typically, the water heater is set so the water is much hotter than at home because there are only 6 gallons (or sometimes on some trailers 10 gallons) to mix with the cold water (which makes the hot water last longer since less hot water is needed to heat the cold water flow).

After a bit more research, I found the answer – the thermostatic shower valve!  Popular in Europe, thermostatic shower wall mounts offer an amazing solution!  The thermostatic valve mixes hot and cold water to a set temperature and reacts instantly to changes in pressure or temperature of the water by re-adjusting the mix of hot and cold water.  What this means is that you can set your desired water temperature in your small travel trailer shower and forget about setting it again (eliminating the need for manual temperature adjustment)!  Additionally, there is usually an anti-scald safety feature that prevents the temperature from being set too high (red button override for hotter temps).  This is great for families with young children or the elderly who might not be able to properly set the water temperature.  Bar valve shower mounts seem to be the most popular being sold in the U.S. on Amazon.  They are attractive chrome bars (see images) that mount to the wall of your small travel trailer shower.  The temperature is typically set with the right hand knob and the flow rate (from off to higher flow) is usually controlled on the left hand knob.   Most of the bar valve shower mounts I found are produced for the European market and, in turn, have heating measurements in Celsius and 6 inch hot cold water line spacing (instead of the typical 4” spacing found in most U.S. small travel trailers).  This usually means one new hole will need to be drilled in the fiberglass shower wall to accommodate pipes spaced 6” apart.

Because they are primarily designed for Europe, the thermostatic wall shower mounts have parts which may not fit well with parts in small travel trailers built in the U.S.  As such, it’s common for leaks to occur when trying to join the pex/compression fittings in the small travel trailer to the European style thermostatic shower mount if the proper materials and methods aren’t used.  That’s because the compression fittings (like SharkBite) which join the PEX water hoses to the shower mount hardware may not fit properly.  In the case of our Scamp 13’, I found that when screwing down the Scamp’s stock SharkBite elbow connectors on the shower mount’s brass threaded water inputs, the thread patterns didn’t seem to match exactly and the compression gasket wasn’t a good match against the brass.  Even after using plumbers tape on the threads and pipe thread sealant, the connections leaked.  After trying a bunch of different connection types and with the help of my friend and neighbor, Roman, who is an engineer, we found a working solution which did not leak when taking a shower.  Please see below for the steps and materials I used to successfully install a thermostatic shower wall mount in our Scamp 13’.

Step 1:  Gather materials:

  1. Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount
  2. ½” x ½” FNPT Female Swivel Elbow (2 of these)
  3. Metal Worm Gear Hose Clamp (adjustable, 40mm–63mm)
  4. White plastic cutting board (2 of these to be safe)
  5. Thick plumber’s tape
  6. Clear Silicone
  7. Hole Dozer – 7/8”
  8. Level
  9. Blue tape

ALWAYS USE EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING WITH TOOLS!  AND, WEAR A PROTECTIVE RESPIRATOR MASK WHEN CUTTING FIBERGLASS!

Step 2:  Disconnect water if hooked up / make sure the on demand water pump is off and release water pressure by running sink.

Step 3:  Remove original shower water mount by unscrewing plastic wall nuts in closet behind the mount.  The shower mount should then pull right out.  Make sure to have a towel to absorb any water coming out of the PEX hoses.

Step 4:  Using adjustable pliers (Irwin Groovelock Plier Set) and with the pliers loose, slap the metal plier faces (top and bottom) with a fast motion against each SharkBite connector end so the connector comes off the PEX, leaving just the blue and red PEX hoses exposed.  Example here.

Step 5:  Wrap each Swivel Elbow brass end piece with thick plumbers tape, push one into the red and one into the blue PEX hoses (should be very tight), and secure it with metal worm gear hose clamps (screw down tightly).  Alternatively, PEX cinch rings, or crimp rings, may be used instead.  Whatever method is used to attach the brass fitting to the PEX, it’s important the joint doesn’t leak.

Step 6:  Cut a straight line on a piece of white cutting board with a wood saw 4” down from the rounded edged top.  We bought several small white cutting boards at Wal-Mart for 88 cents each.  Note:  I first tried with a dremel wheel cutting tool, but the plastic melted leaving a messy surface.  The cut piece will be about 4” long and 8.5” wide, with the rounded edges at the top.  This piece will be used inside the shower directly behind the wall shower mount.

Step 7:  Cut a couple more identical pieces to the above (although having top rounded edges isn’t important) – these two pieces will just be used for spacers in the closet so they don’t have to be that precise.

Step 8:  Assemble the Thermostatic Shower Wall Mount as pictured.  Plumbers tape will need to be wrapped on the brass threads on both sides of the hot/cold brass input fittings (in the opposite direction the pipe will be turned).  Make sure to insert the screen gasket on each side of the mount and rotate the decorative chrome covers over the brass threads.  Be careful not to over tighten the brass fitting on the wall mount side as it could strip the inside threads of the mount.  Hand tightening should be sufficient.  The brass fittings coming out of the wall mount should be uniformly positioned in the same orientation (I positioned them straight out and up).

Step 9:  Place the wall mount over the 4” white plastic back plate piece cut previously and position so that the decorative chrome wall covers will touch the plastic all around when holes are cut.  Mark the position of the holes on the plastic cutting board with a marker using the brass pieces coming out of the wall mount as a guide (the holes should be level and low enough below the rounded top that the decorative chrome covers sit against the plastic all the way around).  Drill the two holes with the 7/8” hole dozer.  Make sure the new backsplash slips easily over the brass fittings on the wall mount.  Make a couple more pieces with the extra plastic cutting board using the original as a template for the holes.  Cut the holes for these two pieces.

Step 10:  Hold the wall mount bar with the right side brass fitting aligned with the farthest shower wall hole on the right and then, with a level sitting on top of the bar, use a marker to trace a circle where the farthest left hole will need to be cut in the shower fiberglass wall.  Be very careful to make sure the holes are aligned horizontally to each other so that the shower mount bar will be level.

Step 11:  Make a dot with a marker in the very center of the hole to be drilled in the shower fiberglass wall.  Then, to protect the area around the hole, stick blue tape down so only the little dot marking the drill location is visible.  Using the 7/8” hole dozer, at very slow speed, carefully drill a hole into the fiberglass shower wall.  There should now be three holes in the shower fiberglass (the center one, used for the stock mount with 4” water line spacing, will no longer be used and will be covered by the backsplash).

Step 12:  Insert the completely assembled wall shower mount with the plastic wall backsplash into the holes in the shower.  Add the two plastic spacer pieces on the brass pipes on the closet side and then screw down the swivel elbows onto their respective pipes (Hot and Cold inputs are marked on the back of the thermostatic wall shower mount), using a level on top of the mount to ensure it is level when firmly attached.  Note:  the original wall nuts are no longer used as they block too much of the brass threads.

Step 13:  Now that everything is complete and attached, the system needs to be tested under pressure.  It’s good to have someone standing by the closet and shower inspecting the joints while another person turns on the hose hookup.  As the system is pressurized, inspect for leaks on both the PEX side and shower side of the system.  Hopefully, there won’t be any leaks.  However, it may be necessary to tighten down the nuts on the wall mount if you see some dripping.  Once satisfied the system is holding pressure and there are no leaks, apply a bead of silicone all the way around the backsplash inside the shower (and also along the outside of the spacers in the closet) to prevent water from leaking behind the backsplash into the closet.

Step 14:  Fill up your hot water heater (if not already filled) by running the Hot water in your sink until water comes out.  Then, turn on your water heater and wait until the water is hot.  Take a hot shower!  Inspect again for leaks.

I did reposition the wood block that holds the PVC coat hanger because it was right in the way of the PEX piping and wasn’t allowing flexibility in positioning the PEX.

With a bit of preparation and care, it is possible to have a reliable thermostatic shower wall mount in your small travel trailer!  And, once you are all set up, you will likely enjoy much more comfortable showers and save some water too!  After you try a thermostatic shower valve, you probably will never want to go back to mixing hot and cold water manually in your small travel trailer again!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

10 Must-Haves to Accessorize Your Small Travel Trailer Interior

 150 150 gavin
By:
0

10 Must-Haves to Accessorize Your Small Travel Trailer Interior

Now that you’ve figured out all the basic necessities and operating procedures for your small travel trailer, it’s time to configure it for maximum enjoyment, comfort, and efficiency.  Here are ten items we use on every trip in our Scamp 13’ small travel trailer which make our trailer much more functional.

  1. Wall Mirror. One of the first things we did to our Scamp 13’ was to install a frameless vanity mirror on the outside of the bathroom door.  The mirror, slightly beveled at the edges, is one foot wide by four feet high and super thin.  We use 3M Scotch Interlocking fastener tape for securing almost all wall hanging items in our Scamp, including this mirror.  To install the mirror in the Scamp, the first thing we did is lay the mirror face down on a carpet and then measure lengths of tape to span horizontally across the back of the mirror.  To prevent breaking the mirror, we interlocked the tape lengths (one side for the mirror and the other for the bathroom door) separately on the floor with lots of pressure.  We then removed the adhesive covering on one side of the tape and pressed it against the mirror.  Next, we figured out exactly where we wanted the mirror to be in the Scamp (we chose about 7” from the base of the door opening and 3” to the left of the door handle).  With the assistance of a level at the top of the mirror and four hands, we removed the adhesive backing on the tape facing the door and carefully pushed the mirror against the door.  Then, we firmly pressed a towel against the mirror and moved up and down the face of the mirror to make sure the adhesive tape was all properly joined to the door.  We have travelled in our Scamp now for over a year, spanning 34 days of trips (some over rough roads), and the mirror continues to stay tightly pressed against the door!  The mirror is great because it really opens up the space of the Scamp, making it appear much larger then it is!
  2. First Aid Kit. Having a first aid kit in your small trailer is a good idea.  If it’s up on the wall, you will also know where it is, it will be available whenever you need it, and it won’t take up any closet space.  It doesn’t have to be a giant kit, but have some basics like band aids and antiseptic.  We’ve used our first aid kit a few times while travelling, just for small cuts.  It’s really handy to be able to have the items available on a moment’s notice.  We have ours secured on the wall (with the 3M Scotch Fastener tape) next to the fire extinguisher.
  3. Flashlight.  Get a good flashlight and attach it to the wall of your small travel trailer.  You never know when you might need it.  We use ours regularly for all sorts of different reasons!  For example, it’s often very dark in the campgrounds at night and a flashlight comes in handy when having to look for items outside or to take a walk.
  4. Long stick lighter. It is essential carrying at least 2 lighters to ensure the stove is able to be lit (for campers not having electric stove lighting option).  We were camping in the high sierras at Lake Mary when we discovered our lighter ran out of juice.  We were just preparing to cook up some pancakes!  How untimely!  Fortunately, the Twin Lakes General Store right down the road was open and had them in stock!  Now, we always make sure to carry two!
  5. Giant wall clock. One item that is super useful is a giant wall clock.  The one we purchased has big LED numbers and is illuminated and easy to read in the dark.  We put ours up on the wall opposite the head of our bed and at a height that makes it easy to read while lying down to sleep (using 3M Scotch Fastener tape).  So, if we have an early morning hiking trip planned or some other meet up with friends, we can easily see what time it is (and it’s not so bright that it affects our sleep).
  6. Paper towel holder (suction cup). Having paper towels next to the sink is a great idea, but there is limited table space in the Scamp to hold them.  This paper towel holder solves the space problem – it has a strong suction cup and sticks to the wall above the kitchen sink!  We’ve had it in position over a year and it hasn’t come off the wall yet!  We use it extensively on every trip and really like it.  One thing we did notice though is that it’s a good idea to secure the paper towels in a closet while driving or they tend to unroll by themselves into the sink!
  7. Toilet paper holder (suction cup). The wet bath in a small travel trailer is generally pretty tight quarters!  There’s usually a shower area and the toilet right behind it.  So, it’s a great idea to partition out the space and keep the toilet area as dry as possible (see article called “How to Turn Your Wet Bath into a Comfy Dry Zone”).  A great addition to the toilet area is a holder for toilet paper.  This will help keep it off the floor, from getting wet, and give easy access.
  8. Soap and Shampoo Dispenser. This dispenser sticks to the wall of the shower with two way tape.  Just pop the top and fill with your favorite shampoo / soap and cover and you won’t ever have to deal with rolling bottles on your shower floor again!  The dispenser has a nice pump button that makes it easy to squirt out shampoo into your hand.  We fill with a natural 3-in-1 Soap (Shampoo, Body Wash, Bubble Bath), eliminating the need for more costly and bulkier multi-dispensers.  CLICK FOR 3-IN-1 LAVENDER, CLICK FOR 3-IN-1 CITRUS & MINT
  9. Powerful Shower Head. The Oxygenics Fury puts the shower back into RV showering!  We went from a placid trickle with our Scamp’s stock handheld shower head to a real blaster with the Fury!  The nice thing is that the Fury actually conserves water and ramps up pressure by mixing air into the shower head.  This results in a really powerful efficient stream.  We’ve found showering takes less time as well since it’s a really fast rinse with better water flow.  It’s also super easy to install – just unscrew the old hose /showerhead  at the shower wall mount and screw on this hose / showerhead.
  10. Deer Coat Hook. What a cool way to hang your towels in the bathroom!  We found this unique cast iron coat hook from CastIronHooks on Etsy.  They also have plenty of other styles to choose from if deer aren’t your thing!  The main goal for shower towels is that they need to be secured nicely so that don’t drop onto the shower floor and get soaked!

 

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

 

Let the “Vikings” Heat Your Small Travel Trailer

 150 150 gavin
By:
0

Let the “Vikings” Heat Your Small Travel Trailer

We were cooking lunch at a State park on a recent trip up to Oregon and the flames on our Scamp 13’ stove went out all of a sudden.  I immediately checked the gauge on our propane tank and it still showed GREEN.   Just to make sure it wasn’t an empty propane tank with a faulty gauge reading, I switched over to our 2nd tank and, viola, we were able to light our stove again!  Hmmm.  What was going on with the gauge?  After a bit of research, I discovered that propane gauges are notoriously unreliable.  Maybe in our situation the gauge was stuck.  In any case though, it seems that relying on a gauge to determine when the propane tank is near empty may not be a good idea.  We were very fortunate we had a 2nd propane tank on our Scamp 13’.  At some of the locations on that recent trip, the temperatures dipped down into the teens at night and we would have been very uncomfortable had our propane powered furnace stopped working.

After investigating several possible solutions (including different types of pressure gauges) to help solve the problem of having an unexpected empty propane tank at perhaps a very undesirable time, I discovered Viking Cylinders (made in Norway).  These are tanks made from composite materials (3 layers – seamless blow-molded liner, fiberglass-wrapped plastic casing, and a durable outer case) which offer several advantages over steel and aluminum tanks:

  1. Translucent – you can actually see the liquid propane in the tank if you wiggle the tank a little (although you have to look very carefully).
  2. Lightweight – Viking claims their tanks weigh “more than 50% less than steel propane tanks”.
  3. Safer than metal – the cylinder is not supposed to explode in a fire (but melt and allowing the gas to safely escape).
  4. Non corrosive – since it’s not metal, it won’t rust or corrode or leave rust marks on surfaces.
  5. Stable – the base of each cylinder is very stable, making it harder to fall over.
  6. Attractive – a really superb looking cylinder!
  7. Easy to handle – it’s easy to pick up and move around with great handles and light weight.

When I saw Viking was having a 25% off sale ($80 in total savings), I purchased two of their 17# tanks to replace the 20# tanks on our Scamp 13’ along with their custom double RV mount (since the Scamp mount wouldn’t accommodate these tanks).  The first thing I noticed when unboxing them is how great they look and how light they feel!  I had read online that some service stations have refused to fill these types of composite tanks, so it was nice to see that each tank had a DOT (Department of Transportation) Certification Certificate attached (meaning the tank is certified to travel on highways and roads).   Putting the tanks in the back of my SUV was a breeze and the service station down the street had no problem filling them!  Installing the new mount was easy and the new mount looks much nicer than the old one, appearing to have a nice thick white powder coating.  All the stock Scamp parts (regulator, hoses, and switch) worked fine on the new mount.

After filling the new Viking composite tanks at the service station (the tanks came purged and ready to fill), I weighed them.  Each filled Viking tank (holding about 3.8 gallons of propane per tank) weighed around 26.6 lbs.  The Scamp’s original 20# steel tanks (holding about 4.5 gallons of propane) each weighed around 37 lbs. when filled.  So, in my testing, the filled 17# Viking Cylinders weigh about 40% less than the stock 20# steel propane tanks that came with the Scamp (albeit with slightly less propane).  The weight difference is even more striking when comparing empty tank weights (tare weights).  An empty 17# Viking Cylinder only weighs around 10 lbs. (compared to around 17lbs. for an empty steel 20# propane tank)!  That’s a 70% difference in weight when empty!  This weight difference between the composite and steels tanks is very noticeable when removing each tank and moving it into your vehicle.  Additionally, it can make a big difference on hitch weight (especially when considering a 2 propane tank setup).

The main reason I purchased the Viking tanks wasn’t for weight reasons though – it was for the ability to see the liquid propane inside the tank.  The Viking tanks have cut out patterns which allow visibility into the liner holding the liquid propane.  I was a little disappointed when I first had the tanks filled because I couldn’t see the liquid.  However, I later figured this was because the liquid was at such a high level that it was above the viewing cutouts.  After one camping trip using the Viking tanks, the liquid propane level in the tank dropped such that I was able to see the liquid moving around when slightly shifting the top one of the tanks.  Even so though, you do have to look very carefully to see the liquid.  In the end, despite the liquid propane being a bit difficult to see in the tank, I still think the Viking tanks are much better than the steel tanks in determining how much propane is left.

I’m very satisfied with the Viking Cylinders.  They look great, are super light, won’t rust, are safer than steel tanks, are easy to handle, and offer the ability to see the liquid propane inside the tank (mostly eliminating the guessing of when the propane is likely to run out).  They are much more expensive than regular steel tanks ($140 for a 17# Viking cylinder vs. around $35 for a 20# tank as of this writing), so I wouldn’t call them a necessity.  They also do need to be requalified every 5 years (from the manufacturing date on the tank) through a visual inspection by an approved requalifier.  Viking has a searchable list of requalifiers on their website.   If the extra cost isn’t a factor, then the added benefits of the Viking Cylinders are well worth switching out your steel tanks for these composite ones!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly. 

Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

 150 150 gavin
By:
0

Powerful Solar Power Solution for your Small Travel Trailer

After a year of trips with our Scamp 13’ (33 nights, 23 locations, 7 trips), we’ve gained a good understanding of how the trailer functions and which accessories provide added benefit.  Because our adventures often involve locations without electricity (such as some State and National parks and boondocking campsites), one excellent solution we implemented is a solar panel system.  The system ensures that our small travel trailer has the power needed to run the most essential functions (e.g. indoor LED lights, water pumps, heater, fans, and perhaps an electric tongue jack).  Most small travel trailers are powered by an on-board 12 Volt DC battery when off-grid or 110V AC onshore power when hooked up to a campsite’s electrical outlet (which is then converted to 12V DC).

The trailer’s battery is usually around 12.7 volts when fully charged and a good rule to ensure long battery life is to keep the trailer’s battery charge level above 12 volts (about 50% of its capacity).  A battery voltage meter should always be used to monitor the trailer’s battery voltage throughout each trip (we had Scamp install a SeeLevel II system when our 2020 Scamp 13’ was being built and Scamp now installs voltage monitors on its 2021 models).  There are aftermarket voltage monitors that simply plug into the 12 volt DC port in the trailer.  Here’s one with a BLUE display and here’s one with a RED display.

We’ve found that a basic 100W solar briefcase (two 50W solar panels which fold up on each other into a briefcase when not in use) is all that is necessary to provide enough power for essential systems in our Scamp 13’ (as long as the camper has sun exposure every few days).  The solar briefcase is nice because it is relatively light and can fit in the back of the tow vehicle when not in use.  We use an auxiliary battery power bank, a Jackery 500, for charging our phones, cameras, drone, and television when boondocking to reserve all of our Scamp’s 12V battery power for essential devices/functions.

The items needed to create a reliable solar system for your small travel trailer are:

  1. High quality 100W solar briefcase (monocrystalline)
  2. 2 pin waterproof male/female connector for the plastic battery box (houses the trailer battery)
  3. 20 foot solar extension cables
  4. 50 foot solar extension cables
  5. Solar crimper tool
  6. 12AWG (thickness) Wire (about 12 inches black / 12 inches red)
  7. Solar panel cable connectors
  8. Solar panel connector assembly tool
  9. Multi-meter Tester
  10. Portable Power Station

Update Sept. 2022:  after a few years, the bag that came with our solar panels split apart (it was always too small and difficult to deal with).  Here’s a much better bag!  Also, we’ve found having 50 foot cables which can extend the 20 foot cables to be a great option when the campsite is in shade most of the time and the longer cables can get the solar panels out into the sun!

Monocrystalline solar panels have the highest efficiency rates (more power per square foot) and perform best in low light conditions, so that’s the type we chose and we’ve been very pleased with the performance.  Make sure you choose a solar panel briefcase which comes with a charge controller.  The charge controller will keep your small travel trailer’s battery from overcharging.  On a recent trip to Joshua Tree National Park, we were down to 12.3 volts one morning.  As soon as the solar panels were plugged into the battery, the power registered 13.6 volts and maintained that steady voltage through most of the day.  When the solar panels were unplugged at sunset, the Scamp battery registered 12.7 volts (100% charge)!  We were staying at a Boondockers Welcome location without any hookups and relied on our Jackery 500 to charge our phones and other non-essential devices (including watching TV at night).  So, as long as there is sun every few days, the solar panel setup will keep the small travel trailer battery charged almost indefinitely!

Once you have the items needed to create your solar system, you will need to connect everything together.  Solar panel briefcases which come with charge controllers usually have a couple of metal clips on the end of each cable (black and red) which attach the solar panel cables directly to the small travel trailer battery (similar to the clips on car jumper cables, by clipping on to the red and black terminals of the battery).  Sometimes these clips are attached directly to the cables coming out of the solar controller and in other cases are separate and have connectors that plug into cable connectors coming out of the charge controller.  In any case, it is cumbersome to use the clips if your small travel battery is covered by a plastic housing box (like with our Scamp 13’).  We would have to take our plastic battery housing on and off each time we used the solar panels if we used the clips.  So, to make things easy, use a waterproof 2 pin male female connector port on the case.  Before installing onto the plastic battery case cover, some black and red 12AWG wires need to be soldered onto the inside port half, and ring terminals crimped onto the ends of the wires so they can connect to the trailer battery (Ring Terminal 12-10 Crimp Connectors, 5/16” Home Depot).  (If you are not familiar with soldering, either have a friend do it or hire an expert.  Otherwise, skip this step and just use the clips directly onto your battery terminals and omit the battery port.)  Once the inside port half has its cables, drill an appropriately sized hold in the plastic battery case cover and mount the port (the outside piece of the port screws into the inside piece to hold it in position on the case).  Then, screw down the ring terminals to the red and black battery terminals and close the battery housing box.  The last step is to solder the outside male connector (which plugs into the battery port) to the 20’ solar extension cables.

Depending on how the solar briefcase is configured, it might be beneficial to create two short cables (red/black) with the 12AWG wire and add MC4 connectors at the end which the 20’ solar extension cables can plug into (they should already have MC4 connectors on them, sometimes male on Black and female on Red).  Some solar briefcases are already configured with these short cables and connectors and it’s important to understand which connectors are male and which are female so they plug in appropriately.  Having short cables connected to the charge controller will allow the solar briefcase to be folded with the short cables still attached to the charge controller.  With this setup, all one needs to do when arriving at the campsite is open and position the solar panels, lay out the solar extension cable, and then join the connectors at the solar panels and plug the other end of the solar extension cable into the small travel trailer’s battery port.

It may be helpful to have a digital multimeter to check there is continuity from one end of the extension cables to the other and also to verify power is coming out of the extension cable at the male side of the port.  On my first attempt, no power was coming out of my extension cable.  So, I tested the continuity of the cable using the meter (makes a tone when the connection is continuous).  I found that one of the factory installed connectors wasn’t making a good connection and, after I reinstalled the connector, everything worked great!  You can also tell right away if your system is working just by checking your voltage.  If everything is good, the sun is out, and the panels are plugged into the system, the voltage will go up to the 13 voltage range right away (almost like the trailer is plugged into an electrical outlet).

Once you discover solar and how effective it is, you will never want to leave home without it!

Disclaimer:  You will get the same great Amazon price by clicking on the links here compared to buying directly on Amazon, but by buying here you will also be supporting the continuation of this website as we get a small commission from each sale.  These are products and procedures we use for our own Scamp that we selected and developed from our own research and experiences.  However, we do not endorse any specific product and cannot guarantee that the products we use are exemplary and the procedures we use are complete, accurate, detail the correct recommended procedures, or apply to your model small travel trailer.  It’s always best to double check with your manufacturer or operation manuals to ensure you are doing everything correctly.